December 31, 2008

HAPPY NEW YEAR !......

Well, It's 2009 in New York so I'm going to sleep..

Hasta Luego Amigos !

Retro Man - Telemark Skier Old School

At 43 I don’t really consider myself very old. Barely middle aged if that. However, today I felt like Retro Man. I guess it all began as I was suiting up for a venture onto the ski slopes. As I slipped into my Marmot Gortex snow pants I remembered how I purchased them at a shop in Jackson, Wyoming in 1989. I then put on an old wool sweater and nylon parka that I received years ago as tip from Hewlett Packard during my bellhoppin days. I then made some adjustments to my Merrill leather telemark boots, stepped in, and laced them up. I was sure not to forget my glacier glasses and Elmer Fudd style pile hat as I grabbed my aluminum Scott poles and 198 cm Tua backcoutry tele skiis. When I arrived at the ticket booth I leaned my skiis against a rack and was amazed at how they towered over others. My skiis looked thin in comparison. With ticket in hand I made my way to the slopes. Gone were the fast moving chairs that bang you in the rear and swoop you off the deck. Now the wide padded chairs come around ever so slow, gently lift, and smoothly transport you to the top of the slopes. I made a couple of runs and a lift op dude complimented me on my cool leather boots. As I rode the lifts, younger skiers and snow boarders didn’t know what to think while the older skiers smiled a nostalgic smile that said, “Ah yes, I remember the day”. I enjoyed skiing classic traditional telemark technique all day and only saw a couple of others doing the same but even they were on the fancey new gear and short wide skiis…

Ten years ago I would not have seemed like an oddity as I did today but I am amazed at how much skiing has changed in a relatively short time. I must admit the new gear is nicer , better, and safer. That all equates to more fun and that’s what it’s all about. Dan has all the new stuff and he offered to loan it to me but you know what ? I think it would be like learning to ski again. I’m not sure I could handle plastic boot power steering attached to wide stable short skiis whose tips are hard to cross ! And I’m referring to telemark equipment ! On second thought, maybe I should give it a try ? Until then you can call me RETRO MAN - Telemark Skier Old School…….

Skiing Colorado



View from the top of Elk Camp. Snowmass Ski Area.






If there’s an economic recession going on it’s hard to tell in Aspen, Colorado. Things appear to be rolling along just fine. Ok, maybe the sales of multi million dollar second homes is down but your lucky to find a parking space…… Wait,,, What ? I just talked with my friend Tim. Aspen’s a mess. Two bomb threats at two separate banks as I type this entry ! Trouble in Paradise ? Oh well, as long as it doesn’t affect the New Years Eve Party scene everything should be ok.

For the last couple of days the weather has been glorious and the snow divine. Lots of sun and not very cold. On my drive over from Denver I stopped in Frisco to fly around the nordic trails for a couple of hours on my lightweight cross country racing skiis. I love to cross country ski and especially enjoy the skate technique over classical. I’m a fairly proficient skater so the enjoyability factor is quite high for me. Cross country skiing is my favorite sport but I really don’t like cold weather. It’s kind of a problem. However, a nice mild winter day on good trails makes dealing with the cold a lot easier to enjoy what I consider to be the coolest cardio sport ever..

Today I skied the lifts of Snowmass Ski Area. I scored a couple of ½ price lift pass coupons from a ski patrol I know. My good buddy Dan is back home in Jersey with the family and offered the use of his slopside condo for a few days. As I’ve stated before in this blog. I’m a very lucky man…

Although I have Dan’s condo to myself I am not alone. There’s Leon the oversized cat. He’s well fed but agile and full of attitude and likeability. Since I have no intention of going out tonight I reckon Leon and I will be bringing in the New Year together. Yep, I have no desire to go out. Why start off the first day of a New Year feeling like hell with a hangover. Instead, I will awake early to snowshoe up Aspen mountain with friends. As I’ve said. 2009 is destined to be a Grand Year…..

December 29, 2008

2009 - Destined To Be A Grand Year !

Geetings ! After a period of sparse posts and uneventful living it's back to more interesting experiences.....2009 is positioned to be a Grand Year for the World Traveler and Thinker. I have great things planned for this blog. I’ll start the year off with a winter break in Aspen then I’ll return to Houston for about 3 months of nitty gritty getting it together nuts and bolts resource gathering. I’ll dive deep into misc. this and that combined with conglomerative necessitary riga ma roll. Some call it work but I prefer to not think of it as such…..

2009 will be a year predominately focused on travel and writing as I creatively navigate the alternatives to “Status Quo”. I will likely be abroad for a longer period of time than last years 3½ months. Domestic travel no longer counts as real travel for me. Ideas for next year include: Sailing (Atlantic Crossing), Walking in Europe, Asia (Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, and India), and South America (Peru, Bolivia, N. Chile and Easter Island). I'm also interested in jogging the Medoc Marathon with friends in France. Well, this is the long list for now but at least I have it narrowed down. As usual my loose plans are always flexible so it will be interesting to see how it unfolds thoroughout the year. Needless to say, I'll be going about it in true low budget backpacker fashion….

Currently I’m in Denver. I drove up from Houston on Christmas Eve. I made the trip in 15½ hours which is record time for me. I only stopped for gas and and arrived at my sisters house in Denver just in time for dinner. The next few days were followed with visiting family and friends. I also spent a day on the ski slopes of Eldora. Today I’m simply tired and need a bit of rest so I’m not doing much. Tomorrow I’ll drive to Aspen to ski and bring in the New Year….

December 13, 2008

Snow Ball At Valhalla



While navigating my way out of the Valley of contemplation I came to the realization that hesitation due to over analyzation leads to situations requiring the need for behavior modification. The one problem with being a “World Traveler and Thinker” is the the “Thinking Part”. It'll get me in trouble every time. Thinking is good but best done in moderation. The cure ? A good run, time at a Coffee shop called “Antidote”, a few beers at “Valhalla”, snow in Houston, and over 60,000 airline miles. Wow ! Now that's a recipe for endless possibilities !......... Best not to give it too much thought otherwise I might come down with a case of “Mass Option Disorder” which invariably leads to impaired decision making skills. Like I always say, “ When you don't know what to do, do something”. I'm doing something.

I've decided to start taking a more creative approach towards writing and constructing blog entries. I do not want to bore myself or others with a blow by blow of what I ate for breakfast or how much I dislike the noise of gas powered leaf blowers. I'm more interested in releasing creative potential that's been stifled by the demons of self doubt. Time to slay a few dragons in order to boost up a little confidence. Now, if I can only find my sword ????

Last Wednesday it snowed in Houston. It actually snowed pretty good and some areas got more than just a dusting. Some winters Houston never gets temperatures below freezing but every few years there's a remote outside chance of a snowflake or two. In the photo above you can see me with a snow ball at Valhalla. I was amazed and fascinated to be experiencing such a rare possibility.

In the near future I plan to drive up to Colorado to visit family and friends. Afterwards I will do something else. I recently ordered a guidebook to Tasmania and a mini laptop. Not sure what that means but I'm sure I'll figure it out....

November 25, 2008

Sailing The Caribbean 2004-05













Since my last post had a boat theme I felt like this might be a good time to share a little about my sailing experience in the Caribbean during the winter of 2004-05.

The trip started when I flew down to Trinidad during December '04. Once there I met up with my friend Jan whose father owns a 42 ft Venezia Catamaran. Jan and and another friend by the name of Dan had been dodging hurricanes all summer on their way south from St. Croix. I was joining them for the trip back up. Jan and Dan decided to take a break in Trinidad and had the boat hauled out for repairs. The first week was spent working on the boat.

Once the boat was ready we left Trinidad and sailed into the wind towards Grenada. It was kind of rough and when night fell I got sea sick. I was ok during the day but it's hard to see the horizon when your sailing through a pitch black night. It was the only time I got sick. Around sunrise we stopped briefly at Grenada to rest awhile in a calm bay before moving on. After a couple of days we arrived at Martinique. We spent a whole day ashore on Martinique then left in the evening for a 3 day sail to St. Croix. I really enjoyed that segment of the trip. I was over my seasickness and being out on the open ocean felt really peaceful to me. I especially liked the night watches. It was very beautiful. I also thoroughly enjoyed observing flocks of flying fish during the day.

A couple of unusual things happened along the way. As we passed St Lucia, about 30 miles to the west, we were approach by a U.S. Coast Guard cutter. When we first saw a boat with a large gun motoring towards us I was little nervous but luckily it was a legitimate Coast Guard. We communicated over the radio and gave them all of our info and they followed us for about an hour before wishing us a safe voyage. In the end it was probably good. At least someone knew we were out there. Something else unusual was when a low flying aircraft flew over us in the middle of the night with no lights. Jan thought it was military related. Both incidences probably have something to do with all of the drug running that goes on down there.

After we arrived in St Croix Dan decided to leave the boat and Jan wanted to hang out for awhile. I then chose to set out on my own for 3 weeks. I purchased a 3 week LIAT airlines Island hopper pass. LIAT, leave at anytime as I liked to call it, is the local airline of the Caribbean. They fly a variety of prop planes that tend to put the adventure back into flying. My favorite flight was aboard a Twin Otter as I flew from Nevis to Antigua. During the three weeks of Island hopping I visited St. Lucia, Dominica, Nevis, St. Kitts, and St, Martin. Not to mention a couple of long layovers at the Antigua airport. It was a fantastic time. Highlights included several hikes: Gros Piton on St Lucia(with a colorful Rasta guide); Boiling Lake and Gros Morn (highest mountain) on Dominica; and Mt Nevis on Nevis.

When my 3 week pass was up I returned to St Croix and the boat. Dan had left but Jan's girlfriend joined us and we sailed off to Culebra and Puerto Rico. After a few days in Puerto Rico Jan's girlfriend went home and Jan and I set out again. We headed back to St Croix via Vieques and St Thomas spotting whales along the way. Shortly after our return to St Croix and 3 months since leaving Houston it was time to go home.

Since my Caribbean journey I haven't really sailed much but I'd really like to. I spent enough time on a boat to have a good feel for what it's all about. One of my dreams is to sail across the Atlantic from the Canary Islands.

November 23, 2008

Thoughts From The Valley Of Contemplation



It's been over a month since I returned from the Camino and I'm feeling about as settled as a box of Mexican jumping beans. I've had plenty of time to catch up with sleep, socialize with friends, and round up a few shekels. I feel like I could easily just pick up my pack and walk on but I also desire to integrate some kind of meaningful purpose to my renaissance vagabondish ways. Therein lies the riddle. The Camino was one of those great mountain top experiences but now I find myself in a valley of contemplation. Mind if I share a few thoughts ?

I like Houston but I think it may be time to move on for awhile. Over the past couple of years things have changed a lot for me. I believe a move may be good. Two years ago I could be seen regularly at local running races and running club socials. Running has always been a big part of my life. I also had a girlfriend that I was pretty psyched about. There were numerous reasons to live in Houston and I was happy being here. Since then I've developed a chronic running injury and haven't been able to run the way I'd like. Racing is out of the question and running is no longer what it use to be for me. Despite my running injury I can ski, hike etc, etc, but there isn't much of that in Houston..... My girlfriend moved on to bigger and better things well over a year ago and I haven't had much of a desire to get involved with anyone else. No ties in that department..... I still frequent the beer drinking running club socials but oddly enough I'm getting kind of tired of drinking beer. I've become a little disinterested in the Houston experience and I don't have any real desire to stick around. At least for now. I guess that's why I'm currently feeling so unsettled. This all goes without saying that I still have a great time hanging out with running friends. Especially the few I've gotten to know pretty well over the past couple of years. Houston is where I grew up. It's my home and my father lives here so it's always going to be a part of my life regardless.

I'm very lucky and fortunate to have the freedom and options that I do but sometimes I drift along like a sailboat without a rudder. Eventually a good breeze comes along and the sailing is quite nice. Life is exciting and lots of cool things happen. Invariably the wind dies and I'm back to the rudderless boat. This tends to be a pattern. Fortunately, I'm able to maintain a certain degree of excitement and anticipation as to where the wind will take me next. This really keeps me going but sometimes I could probably use a rudder and a Yanmar engine to keep me on track.

Like anything, living the life of “World Traveler and Thinker” has its pros and cons. Obviously for me the positives far outweigh the negatives. Nonetheless, the one thing that's lacking, especially as a solo nomad, is a sense of purpose and meaning. I wrestle with the issue of purpose and meaning frequently. Therein lies the thinker.

A big reason for this blog originates out a need to fulfill a purpose and to add more meaning to my adventures by sharing stories, photos, thoughts, and experiences. My desire is not only to share with family and friends but to inspire others to live their dreams and to not be afraid to do so. Life is rarely as stable as it seems and anything can happen. I encourage everyone to live life now.

For the time being I'll continue to navigate my way through a post Camino valley of contemplation as I formulate a new plan.... Oh yeah ! I've dusted off my guitar....

November 17, 2008

H-Town Karaoke At The LZ


I know my blog has been kind of quiet since my return to Texas. I've been back home for over 4 weeks and I can't say too much has happened. I've felt some tinges of boredom which is rare for me. My life in Houston can be pretty routine but in all honesty I'm rarely if ever bored.

Since I currently have no regular job, no girlfriend, and no real direction I feel this a perfect time to explore any long time repressed latent artistic talents. How does that sound ? I'm picking up a pen, dusting off my guitar and turning on the mike. The typewriter keys are flying and my mind is in three places at once. Here, there and everywhere but nowhere in particular. You know, stream of consciousness. The inner critic is barred from participating. I have no room for the perfectionist. I'm leaving myself alone.

The artist life is a fun life. Fun things happen. A few nights ago I was at Valhalla (Bar on Rice University campus) and I ran into a guy of European descent who grew up in Rhodesia (Zimbabwe). His name is Ian and I met him a few months ago but hadn't seen him since. He's been living in Houston for 11 years. I didn't know it but Ian is likes to sing. That very evening he planned on singing Karaoke at the LZ Pub and asked if I'd like to join. As a singer/songwriter I play an open mike every now and then but its been awhile. Karaoke is a great way to get use to being on stage. The music is canned and the lyrics are presented on a screen so a singer doesn't have to worry about forgetting the words. Audience expectations are usually low and making a fool of oneself is appreciated more often than not. If your a horrible singer it just doesn't matter. No one will tell you. Everyone's a Star !

In my opinion I can sing ok. As I said, the inner critic is not participating. I'm not saying I'm a great singer but I can definitely sound respectfully decent as long as I stick to songs within my range. No Steve Perry or Mariah Carey. Country tends to be the genre where I do best. Alan Jackson's “Chatahoocee” is a good warm up.

I left Valhalla around 9 pm and drove to the LZ Pub. It was kind of hard to find. I drove past it four or five times before I found it. When I walked inside there was Ian, a couple of bartenders, a karaoke DJ and maybe a couple of other people. Other than that the place was quiet. Ian bought me a beer as our Asian American karaoke host broke the silence with a Journey tune. The host's name is Donovan and he's a talented singer when it comes to 80's rock. He can hit the high notes !.... Around that time there was a crowd of 4...I sipped my beer and stared at a fish tank in the corner of the room...

Ian got up first with some classic pop song from England then I followed with Alan Jackson's Chatahoochee. A couple of more people arrived. Some guy wearing a blue tie sang a Weezer song as he rocked out with a Guitar Hero video game Stratocaster for a prop. Wow ! He didn't miss a chord ! Then Donovan sang another Journey song before an older middle aged lady sang something that sounded like a Carpenters song...Eventually I got up and sang Dwight Yoakum's “Guitars and Cadillacs” and found my voice..... Up to that point the evening was fairly normal.....

As midnight neared Donavan belted out a Bryan Adams song for what appeared to be a crowd of about 10. The vibe was high energy, free and easy. Everyone was getting into it. No one seemed to care about what anyone else thought so alter egos were more than welcome. Performances became more animated. The quality of singing didn't seem to matter as much as the presentation. Donovan's humorous comments between songs became more colorful and witty.... An African American by the name of J Fressh Flow (at least I think that's what he said his name was) started busting out some free style rap. He was really good and knows how to own a stage. Very entertaining. Just yell out a word and he throws out some witty rhymes. I'm not a big fan of rap but I quite enjoyed it. The night was happening.... Ian disappeared and returned with more beers. He then got up on stage and began dancing with a young looking married woman as she sang. She liked the attention. Afterwards she seemed to lose her interest in singing and was more interested in dancing for whoever was singing. I guess her husband wasn't there ? A couple of guys gave her dollar bills. She happily accepted. Around 1 am things seemed a little surreal so I sang a Sinatra song.

Close to 2am Ian belted out a really good heavy duty slow rocking version of “Three Little Pigs”. Hat's off. Ian delivered. I followed with Nickelbacks “Rock Star” and ordered a water. Wait, maybe I sang that song before “Three Little Pigs”..????.... It was a great close to the evening and I figured 2am was late enough for a Wednesday night. Donovan thanked me for participating and invited me to join anytime. I intend to go again..... It felt great to allow myself to be an entertainer on stage. Especially when others are entertained. At least I think they were ? Then again, Karaoke ? It doesn't matter. Everyones a Star !

November 10, 2008

Impressive Downhill Skateboarding... A Great Ride !

Back in the 1970's I loved to skateboard. After numerous bumps, scrapes, and a concussion I moved on to other activities. Nontheless, I've retained an appreciation for the sport. Had I grown up next to the Ocean I definitely would have been a surfer. Skateboarding and surfing go hand in hand.... These days I guess you can say I'm an armchair adventurer when it comes to skateboarding and surfing... I recently stumbled across this 10 minute footage of two crazy guys, with the Right Stuff, riding their skatebaords down Claremont Canyon in California. On the way down it looks like they're passing a camera back and forth? Absolutely crazy and great to watch... View in HD by clicking "Vimeo" on the bottom right corner of image screen.... It's a Fabulous armchair ride !


Adam Kimmel presents: Claremont HD from adam kimmel on Vimeo.

November 6, 2008

Election 2008


As an independent moderate I do not desire to get too political in this blog but I can't help but pay recognition to the historic election of Barak Obama. It makes no difference what your political affiliation is. On November 4, 2008 we witnessed the beginning of a different America. Hopefully for the better.

Barak ran one heck of a campaign and won decisively. His charismatic demeanor and articulate speaking abilities served him well. Although his experience is very limited it didn't seem like much of an issue for him. He quickly became a symbol of hope and change as the majority believed he deserved a chance. Barak now has his chance.

McCain ran a good campaign as well but many will argue his choice of running mate. McCain is a seasoned politician and decorated Navy Pilot who survived 5 ½ years in a North Vietnamese prison camp. For some he represented experience and wisdom but for others he represented the same old Washington that most all of America is tired off. Many were afraid things would stay the same. This was a tough year for a Republican running for office.

I see both individuals as having their pluses and minuses but ultimately Barak is set to take the stage. I've always admired McCain's character and was impressed by his concession speech. Shortly after McCains concession Obama and McCain spoke. McCain offered his help and support to Obama and Obama replied by saying, “I need your help”. Hopefully this is a sign of better things to come. A time when politicians can truly understand each other's point of view in order to find a common ground for the greater good. Perhaps now is a time when petty differences will be put aside and leaders will think sensibly for a change. Well, I know that sound's like an idealistic pipe dream but I still like to think it's possible.....

Taking into account the primaries I will admit that my candidate did not get elected....However, A big upside is that I think Obama has a great opportunity to improve America's relations with the rest of the World. As a new player he has a clean slate with a lot of potential. He's young and fresh therefore many world leaders will be more open to him. My concern is that he is very inexperienced and there's a lot we don't know about our new president elect. With inexperience comes naivete and with that comes mistakes. Invariably there will be mistakes. At this point I'm cautiously optimistic about the future. I support our new president despite my reservations. Barak has one Hell of Job ahead of him. If he really is who he has everyone believing he is then I think things are going to be ok, otherwise ????... Time will tell....... I sincerely hope he does well......

November 3, 2008

2005 - Drive - Houston To Labrador - Battle Harbor


Labrador and Battle Harbor

During the summer of 2005 I wasn't quite sure what to do with myself so I decided to go for a drive. Since I've traditionally headed west, under the same frame of mind, I decided to head East for a change. My first stop was Killingworth, Ct where I stayed with friends for a week or so before heading up to Maine. I then spent a week around Bar Harbor, ME and Acadia National Park hiking and running. From there I drove up to Canada. I first blazed through New Brunswick on my way to PEI. Afterwards I ventured on over to Nova Scotia and up to Cape Bretton. It was then that I realized it was merely a 6-8 hour ferry ride to Newfoundland and without much thought I got on a ferry. It was a great Ferry ride on 10-12 ft. seas. Really awesome. Once in Newfoundland I drove all the way up the west coast to the site of an actual Viking village. At that point I realized it was only a couple of hours by ferry to get to Labrador.... Labrador ? They've got Northern Lights and Polar Bears up there !.....

Labrador proved to be pretty amazing. Beautiful landscapes and very few people. The only problem in the summer is that it's overrun by blood sucking Black Flies. Unless there's a good rain and/or stiff wind the flies are insanely bad. As I drove into Labrador this became more of an issue and I found it best to stay near the windy coastline whenever possible. While talking to some local folks I learned of an Island just off the coast that use to be a hot bed for Cod fishing. The Island is known as Battle Harbor. The area was fished heavily for a couple of hundred years before being fished out. Due to economic decline people living on the Island relocated and the village of Battle Harbor was abandoned. As the settlement fell into decay local interests acquired the support of the Canadian Government to help preserve the village as a historical site. A Government supported Historic Trust now employs a small staff to maintain remaining buildings and facilities for visitors, ocean researchers, etc. during the summer months. There's a bunk house, several cottages for accommodation and a cafe that offers meals. The only way you can get to Battle Harbor is by taking an hour and half boat ride from Mary's Harbor. I was intrigued so I planned to visit for a few days..

When I arrived I was the only visitor for the day. Besides myself there was a small staff, a sailboat with two people returning from Greenland, and a marine biologist studying the local whales. I stayed in the Bunkhouse and spent the next three days getting know the few people there and exploring the area. Very remote and absolutely beautiful. The weather was great. Plenty of wind and No Black Flies ! Great place !....

After 3 days I took the boat back to Mary's Harbor and decided I had driven far enough North. I then turned South and slowly retraced my steps back home... It was a good drive...

October 26, 2008

Current Sate Of The Union - Traveler Thinker Perspective



Well, I'm settling back into my life here in Houston. My body has readjusted to central daylight time and I've caught up on some much needed sleep. Things are good. Can't complain at all. Upon my return I quickly realized that a lot has happened while I was gone. During the 6 weeks I was in Spain I didn't follow any news and it was wonderful...

Currently the USA, as well as the rest of the world, is in the midst of a a financial crisis. However, oddly enough, the American dollar is gaining strength and the price of oil is plummeting which is good for travel !........In all seriousness though, with the presidential election coming up tensions are very high and the country is passionately divided. It's kind of a crazy time right now. Having just walked the Camino I feel like I've stepped into a riot without any kind of emotional involvement. What I see is a stock market fueled by neurosis, excessive greed, and a gambling attitude. Gone are the solid principles of good ol' Blue Chip investing commonly considered safe before the introduction of internet day trading..... On the issue of politics I see everyone talking but not many listening and all the while people keep getting louder. The irony is that I think everyone basically wants the same things... There seems to be an abundance of irrational thinking right now as people become more and more emotional about the issues.....

Having taken up the free spirit lifestyle of a World Traveler and Thinker I can't say I have much to loose. Although I'm concerned I'm not overly worried......Finances ? I make very little and do just fine. I feel that my money is best wisely used now because you never know what might happen in the future. You can interpret that however you like but I will add that I'm not stupid....Excuse me while I wave my Thoreau like Vagabond Philosophy flag. Having little means you have little to loose, less to manage and ultimately more freedom. Material possessions are a burden. When I equate time spent living and working I tend to look at it this way. Do I want to spend 50 days of my life working for a luxury item or would I rather spend 25 days working, grab my backpack, and spend the next 25 days gaining an interesting life experience walking through the jungles of Borneo? When my days are done I can't take the luxury item but I can take the experience and impressions left by walking through the jungles of Borneo. Therefore I think a better investment is to forgo the material and invest in Life Experiences. This said, I must add that everyone is wired differently and I'm speaking purely for myself. Some may relate to my philosophy while others are much more inclined to go for the Lexus. It's a matter of personal preference and there's really nothing wrong with that...

Politically ? The Election ? My stance is this. I sincerely hope that good things come out of whoever gets elected. I will support our next president with a neutral mind until proven otherwise.......Both candidates have their pluses and minuses......... Remember the Alamo !.... What ??????????

Santigao Cathedral - Botafumeiro

While going through my Camino de Santiago photos yesterday I realized that I had not posted a short video of the Santiago Cathedral Botafumeiro I witnessed at Pilgrims Mass. The Botafumeiro is a giant incense burner that swings from the highest point within the building. The Botafumeiro was originally used in Medieval times to cleanse the odor brought in by pilgrims filling the cathedral after their long journey. I imagine there were also other reasons pertaining to ritual but I'm not sure what they are. Very impressive to see in person. Smells like Frankincense.

October 23, 2008

Galveston After Hurricane Ike




The other day I decided to drive to Galveston to see what it's like 40 days after Hurricane Ike rolled over the Island. I was in Spain when it hit but I had heard it was a strong storm. On September 13 it rolled right over Galveston and Houston during the middle night. Most all of Houston was left without power. For some it would be 2 to 3 weeks before power was restored. The streets were littered with debris and many of the sky scrappers downtown had lost numerous pane glass windows....

When I arrived home, over a month after the storm, Houston was pretty much cleaned up and seemed relatively back to normal. But I was told it was a much different story for the local Gulf Shores. I live less than an hours drive from Galveston and like to go there fairly regularly. Obviously I needed to see for myself.

On my way I passed League City, Clear Lake and Nasa with things looking pretty normal except for an occasional blown out sign or fallen tree. Nothing big. As I got closer to Galveston things became a little more noticeable as all of the bill boards are completely stripped clean. I then continued over the causeway.

Wow, what a difference! The first thing I saw were a number of boats littered along the highway. Not much further the mounds of debris. Mounds and mounds. Then I passed a very large multi acre lot where debris is being transported so that larger semis can load up and truck it out. Ike had pounded the Island hard with sustained winds well over 100mph coupled with a large storm surge that flooded most of the Island. Mounds and mounds of debris.

I first went to the seawall. Amazingly the seawall area looked pretty nice. It appears as though the wall did a good job. This area was likely the first to be cleaned up for image in order to help get something of the Galveston tourism business started as soon as possible. There is noticeable damage to parts of the seawall but the beaches actually look nice and clean. The most unfortunate loss to area are buildings that were built over the water extending out from the wall. Most notable is the loss of the famous Balinese room that stood since 1929. Known for being one of the hottest night spots around it hosted greats like Frank Sinatra and Bob Hope. It also survived a number hurricanes over the years. Now it's totally completely Gone ! Also gone is the famous Murdocks which was a famous bathhouse turned souvenir shop. Also gone, for better or worse, is Hooters. The large Flagship hotel suffered major damage and the drive to get on the pier its built on is gone. It stands alone. A wounded mass of building with windows broken and curtains in the flailing in the wind.

From the Seawall I headed to West Beach. It's an area beyond the seawall that's a great place for a long walk or run. I often like to go there.... Many beachouses are built along west beach but right now there are a lot fewer !... Basically, all of the front row beach houses on west beach are gone. Completely gone.. Scraped... All of the remaining houses have sustained various degrees of damage ranging from major to not too bad. It appears as though most of west beach is still without power, water, and I imagine sewer. West beach is a mess. The beach has a completely different landscape due to how the storm rearrange sand. Many, Many large piles of debris etc.... Big mess...

After west beach I returned to the city proper and decided to check out an area of historic homes located near 12th and Post Office. Many had survived the hurricane of 1900 so I wanted to see how they fared under Ike. Well, I guess they're built in the right place because things appeared to be pretty much unchanged. I didn't notice piles of debris like everywhere else on the island so I assume there wasn't flooding in that particular area. From there I headed over to the Strand which is located near the ship channel and cruise ship dock. Wow, what a mess! It's really terrible. The heart of some of Galveston's richest history had been flooded under 7-8 feet of water. Terrible mess. The actual structures look fine but it's going to be quite awhile before anything opens up on the Strand again...From there I headed back home..

I feel really bad for all of those who suffered loss over Hurricane Ike . My hopes and prayers go out to all that are affected. There's no doubt in my mind that Galveston will rebuild and get back on its feet as soon as possible. Alot of contractors and relief workers have moved onto the Island. I saw many out of state plates. It's going to take time but when all is said and done I'm sure Galveston will be better than ever.
























October 19, 2008

Jerry's Boots - From Santiago to Santiago

What you see in this photo is a pair of high quality Italian made Vasque Leather Sundowner hiking boots lined with 1st generation Gortex. These boots were Very popular in the 1980's. My friend Jerry purchased these back in the day. They did'nt fit him very well but he hung onto them anyway. Obviously he did'nt use them much and figured someday they would be good for someone or something. That someday arrrived last January when I flew into Santiago, Chile. I originally met Jerry and Ingrid in college and hadn't seen them in over 20 years. With the help of a mutual friend we had become recently reaquainted thru email and skype. Anyway, I was setting out for a two month trip to Chile and Argentina and they invited me to stay with their family. When I arrived at their home in Santiago, Chile I noticed that the soles of my boots were falling off. Even though the boots I was wearing showed little use and were only a few years old the soles were disintigrating after wearing them on the plane. Was it the security Xray machine, or, just a lousey batch of chinese rubber sole material ? Regardless, my boots were useless at that point and I had plans to hike in Patagonia. What to do ? At that moment Jerry thought of his Vasque boots and offered them to me. I tried them on and they fit well so Jerry gave them too me. This is where the story gets interesting. I aquired these boots in Santiago, Chile. I then wore them to Patagonia and Ushuaia, Argentina the modern day, "Fin del Mundo", end of the world. From there I wore them back to Santiago, Chile and then home. Due to considerable Patagonia wear I debated wether or not to take them on the Camino but decided I had just enough sole for the trip. I then used them for the entire Camino thus arriving in Santiago, Spain with Italian boots aquired in Santiago, Chile. From Santiago, Chile I then wore them to Finisterre the, "Old World", end of the world where I took the photo shown on this blog...... From Santaigo to Santiago. From the End of the World to the End of the World. Now, wouldn't it be something if Jerry's name was really James ?.....

The future of these boots ? They held up remarkably well on the Camino and I will likely have them resoled. You can still buy Vasaque Sundowners but they are not the same. The leather is different and they are made in China. Not much telling what the soles are made of.....

October 18, 2008

Camino de Santiago Video Shorts - Set 2

Walking on the Camino de Santiago talking to myself.

Passing thru a herd of cows while walking the Camino de Santiago.

Sitting at the "Pre Columbus" end of the world with Camino de Santiago walker Deb. Finisterre - Fin del Mundo - The End of the World.

Camino de Santiago - Video Shorts

While walking the Camino de Santiago I came to a road crossing just as the Tour of Spain was passing near Ventosa.

Early morning Shepherd and Sheep crossing the Camino de Santiago.

Walking thru the streets of Leon, Spain with fellow Pilgirms on the Camino de Santiago.

Closing Thoughts On The Camino de Santiago - Back In Houston


I'm back in Houston. The trip home lasted 20+ hours and was quite exhausting as I arrived home late last Wednesday night. Although I'm still trying to shake the jet lag I'd like to share some closing thoughts on my experience of walking the Camino de Santiago.

For me the Camino was an amazing experience that exceeded my expectations. I've traveled alot over the years and can honestly say the Camino is very special. In ways that are hard to describe I know it has changed me for the better. Some issues in my life seem clearer and I feel more at peace with new found understandings. I'm probably less sure, than before the Camino, as to what my next direction in life is but I feel remarkably at ease. Life is simple. No need to make it complicated. Things always work out......

Religion? Some walk the Camino for reiligious reasons and some do it just because they like to walk. Some believe in God while others are agnostic. A few may even be atheist. By the end, everyone, despite whatever belief, agrees the Camino is very Special. Its hard not to be changed in some way, by something, for the better.

Physical Demands? Some start out fit and athletic. Many are not fit at all have no athletic background. An unathletic French woman in her mid 50's whom I met towards the end put it this way,"The first week was pure hell but after that things got alot easier. The Camino is the most wonderful experience". If your new to the whole distance walking thing give yourself time early in the walk to get use to it all. Plan short days in the beginning and take care of your feet at the first sign of any problem. As long as your reasonably healthy all you really need is the desire to do it. One day at a time and before your know it, your in Santiago..

For anyone who is inclined and has the desire to walk the Camino my advice is to think no more and just do it. Do'nt worry about the details, etc. as all that stuff will likely sort itself out easier than can be imagined. The time to walk the Camino is when your interested and the desire is present. Some may feel a calling. It's not so much about deciding that someday will be the right time. It's more about taking advantage of the desire to walk when the time feels right and to NOT put it off. Naturally there is some planning involved when it comes to leaving home for 5 weeks, getting to St Jean Pied Port, etc,. etc. but while walking the Camino I would'nt reccomend planning anything more than 2 hours in advance. All you need to know is that you will be walking alot. Just let it happen. Allow the Camino to work it all out and an amazing experience will surely unfold. The biggest challenge is the self but as long as your leave yourself alone things will be fine if not great or excellent. The Camino teaches this lesson very well....

The scenery and villages rich with character, characters, and history make the Camino a beautiful experience, however, its really the people walking the Camino that make it particulary special. People come from all over the world with a common goal. Simply to walk to Santiago. Walk, eat, sleep and walk some more. It makes no difference wether or not you speak the same language or know what each other does for a living. The many multitudes of characteristics that we as humans normally use to label, catagorize, and/or undersatand an individual are more or less irrelevant on the Camino. It just does'nt matter.. This biggest complaint about anyone walking the Camino may be that they snore loudly or get up at 5am to rustle thru their bags in the albergue for an hour. During my time on the Camino I found that most any talk about other pilgrims was generally supportive, endearing, and/or uplifting. I noticed an extreme lack of negative gossip which was quite refreshing.

Now for some nuts and bolts info.....No matter what the books say you may find it interesting to know that the busiest months, according to hospitaleros, are May and September. May is generally rainy and September is usually much drier. July and August are considered too hot for those going the full distance from France. The final 100k is busiest during the summer as individuals and tours walk the last 60 miles in order to obtain a compostela in Santiago. Most of these groups are supported and have all sorts of ways of going about walking the last 100k. It's the large groups doing the final bit that account for July and August statistically being the busiest months. A hospitalero in Viloria de Rioja said there are few pilgrims in the middle of summer. I found September to be great for walking. There was very little rain and aside of a few warm days temperatures were cool with some nights being downright cold..... I saw plenty of people and some would worry about getting a bed in an albergue for the night. There was only one occasion where I saw people shut out with absolutely no other option. It only happened once and in my opinion if the hospitalero at the albergue had a little more of a pilgrim spirit there would'nt have been a problem at all. Anyway, I always got a late start and although some albergues would be full, when I arrived, there was always overflow space available nearby. I camped quite a bit because I like to camp and often preferred the added privacy and peace afforded by a tent. Virtually no one camps on the Camino but I found it to be one of the hidden gems if you don't mind carrying a tent. Many albergues allow camping and usually it's alot better than being inside with the snorers. Often I would camp at an albergue and use the the facilities. This worked out really well. I preferred to camp as long as the weather was good. With a little asking around I think many options for camping can be found. As far as sleeping in the albergues goes it was usually better than I anticipated and sometimes really nice. However, I do reccomend ear plugs and eye mask. They can make a big difference by helping to insure a good nights sleep. Some albergues only have 2 beds in a room while others could have 20, 30, 50 or even one with over 100 beds in a room ! Lights are usually turned off at 10 pm and generally everyone has to be out by 8 am the next morning....... Getting there and back ? I flew to London for a couple of days and then caught a Ryan Air flight to Biarritz. From there it was a short bus ride to Bayonne and a peaceful hour or so on train to St. Jean. From Santiago I took a train to Madrid (7 hours). Flew home from Madrid. I was very happy with this travel plan....
Well, I think this is going to wrap up my Camino de Santiago specific blog topic but I'll soon be adding a short story on my walking boots and some short films I recorded with my small digital photo camera while on the Camino...
Hasta Luego! Buen Camino !

October 12, 2008

On To Madrid..... From Pilgrim to Traveler

I´m currently in Santiago waiting to catch my train to Madrid early this afternoon. It´s a little strange being back in Santiago a week after completing the Camino. There are plenty of fresh Pilgrims just arriving and non of them look familiar. Everyone I met along the way is either back home or moving on to something else. The walk to Finnistere was a great way to close a fantastic journey and Muxia was the bonus prize. I arrived in Santiago yesterday morning. Last night I joined Han, Carla, Joyce, and Marlouse (all from Holland), Swan from Germany, and Max from the states (who I had´nt seen in a week)..... Han and joyce will head back to their sail boat in the Caribbean Dutch ABC´s and prepare to sail to New Zealand. Joyce, a Life Coach, is on her way back home to her husband and plans to take a more relaxed approach towards living. Marlouse, a published romance author, will continue her travels as she makes time to write along the way. Swan is returning to Germany and her medical studies as an MD. Max is on his way home where he runs his own consulting buisness with the enthusiasm of a real entreupanuer.... Me ? Well, I must admit I´m ready to go home for the time being but in a week or two I´ll start getting ideas for the next journey and/or chapter in life. In a few short days I´ll be back in Houston. I no longer consider myself a Pilgrim. I´m a Traveler......In a week or so I´ll post some closing thoughts on the my experience of the Camino de Santiago......On another note..... What´s been going on in the World for the last 6 weeks ? I hardly have a clue .................

October 10, 2008

The Walk To Muxia - If You See A Fork In The Road ?

If you see a fork in the road on the way to Muxia from Finisterre I suggest you choose wisely. The walk to Muxia is absolutely beautiful but alot of the route is not marked very well and all of the maps are pretty lousey. Sometimes you come to a fork with no markings and you just have to go with what feels right. At one point there were two bold yellow arrows pointing the way. Just as I started to go with the arrows a couple of farmers pointed me the opposite direction where I spotted a prominent cement route marker. I took their advice against the trusty yellow arrows. Remarkably, with only a couple clues, I found my way without getting lost. I´m still not sure where the bold arrows went but a couple of other walkers followed them for 20 minutes before turning around and apparently finding the way I took. The route does not see alot of use but I know that people walk from Finisterre daily. Some make it without a problem while others get lost for hours. Luckily, I did not get lost and made good time. However, there were fairly long streches where I was´nt sure I was going the right way. Whenever I had a chance I asked a local if I was on the Camino Muxia. The key to the route is that you really have to pay attention and do the best you can to interpret any lousey map you may have. All said, It´s an exceptioanlly beautiful walk..... As you can see in the photo above there is a river crossing. Large stepping stones have been placed to allow a safe ford. Over time, some of the stones have moved and sunk a bit. Also, the water was up a little. I would´nt say the crossing was difficult yesterday but I can say there was ample opportunity to take a plunge. Two women I know, Joyce from Holland and a German whose name means "Little Swan", arrived at the river crossing after getting lost in the first 13 km. They were having a rough day. It was 4 pm and they had left Finisterre at 8:30. Both are strong accomplished walkers and "Little Swan has been walking since April. She started in Germany. Well, this was the final strech for Swan and just as she neared the end of the crossing she took a dive. Swan dive ? Pardon my humor. Fortunately she was not hurt but all of her stuff got wet. The seemingly placid stream contained a swift current so she had to swim muy rapido to retrieve important items such as passport, money, camera, etc.... All was retrieved successfully except for one boot insole. She can´t use her boots without the insole so she had to walk in her sandals the rest of the way. To bring closure to all of the miles of walking and a dramatic finish she hung her boots on a tree as a symbol of "Done". Perhaps a bird will build a nest upon them. Again, pardon my humor... Swan and Joyce caught up to me and a couple of others at a local bar around 9:00 pm... They had arrived in Muxia around 8:30. Swan´s nerves were first eased by a slug of scotch. We then shared food and wine while she told her story. Nerves were eased even more with laughter...... Today I´m laying over in Muxia. It´s a beautiful Spanish fishing village built upon a narrow penninsula but the architecture is quite stark and utilitarian. I´m staying at a nice guest house/pesion with a very hospitable host. Swan, Joyce, and couple from Holland are staying there as well. One big happy family. Camino family..... I think we´re all done walking for the time being.


October 9, 2008

Finisterre.... And On To Muxia....




I can´t think of a better way to end the Camino de Santiago than to walk to Finisterre...... I left Santiago on Sunday and arrived in Finisterre on Tuesday. The second day of walking included alot of rain but I can´t complain considering I saw hardly any while walking the Camino. Finisterre is a very nice finishing village with alot of character. Definitely worth a layover day so that´s what I did yesterday. I´ve made alot of new friends along the Camino and on this strech I met Deb from the Uk. We walked together quite a bit the last three days and I really enjoyed her company. Like me she works a few months and travels a few months. It´s always nice to meet other people who relate to the un orthodox lifestyle of a Traveler Thinker. Yesterday Deb went back home to the UK but I imagine we´ll cross paths again someday.... From the Village of Finisterre it´s a short 2 km walk to the former assumed end of the world. There are numerous trails and a variety of hiking options with some nice beaches. Lots of steep rocky hills with great views and plenty of rugged shoreline..... Well, I can´t stop walking just yet... Today I will hike 30 km to another coastal fishing village known as Muxia. I´ll be meeting up with a few other walkers during the day and the weather is great so it should be fun. I still have a few more days before flying home but once I arrive in Muxia I plan to be finished with walking in Spain for awhile. I´ll then start making my way towards Madrid....

October 4, 2008

Santiago and Beyond.... Gotta walk a little more !




Tappas and Vino at midnight. Yes, that´s the way it´s done in Spain and that´s what I did last night with mi Camino Amigos. All was not finished after a midnight dinner so a couple of more drinks before heading back to the Pension made for a late night. It all turned out to be my birthday celebration so I´ll be taking it easy this evening........... For me the walk is´nt over just yet. Tomarrow I´ll put the pack back on and set off to the end of the world. It´s only 90 km and a three days walk away. In the years before Christopher Columbus sailed the ocean blue in 1492 it was commonly believed by many Europeans that Finisterre, Spain was the end of the world. In medieval times after pilgrims had made their journey to Santiago they would continue to Finistere and burn their clothes before turning around and walking home. Hopefully with new clothes. Will I burn anything ? Not sure....

October 3, 2008

Greetings From Santiago !

I arrived in Santiago this morning. I presented my credential to the official office and recieved my compostela ( which is really kind of cool). I then attended the Pilgrims mass at a noon. Afterwards, I set out with a couple of other pilgrims to find accommodation for a couple of nights.... As expected I´m happy to have attained the goal of walking the Camino de Santiago but and am also filled with mixed feelings and can´t believe its already over. I´ve walked everyday for the last 30 days and enjoyed every bit of it. Life, so simple and rich. The Camino has ever more confirmed my belief that life is´nt supposed to be so difficult. For me the Camino was/is about the Journey, not the destination. Soon, I´ll begin contemplating the next direction as I navigate the options and choices brought about by the ever constant reality of change. The Camino has certainly made an impression therefore the next chapters in my life will likely be different because of it......... When I last wrote I was in Ribadiso. That evening Frank from California caught up ! I had´nt seen him in quite awhile so it was great to see him again. I also met up with Max from Boston whom I had met a couple of days previously but briefly. Max is a 31 year old conlsultant who´s originally from Florida. In the 30 days I traveled the Camino I only met 6 other walkers from the States. I know there are bound to be others but I only met 6. That evening we told stories and shared food and drink. Another nice night on the Camino..... The next day Frank and I were the last to leave the Albergue with aprrox. 40 k to Santiago. We walked together all day and passed thru the unappealling popular albergue stops of Santa Irene and Arco do Pino. Other than some nice stands of Eucalyptus trees along the way I can´t say the the walking was all that nice as it often paralleled busy roads. We hiked on and chose to stop at the large albergue located at Monte Gozo. Monte Gozo is only 5 km from the end of the Camino. Sometimes there are advantages to arriving late at an Albergue. Monte Gozo is a complex of numerous buildings and can house as many as 800 people. They had been putting most all of the other pilgrims in a couple of buildings which were more or less filled so they opened another building. Frank and I got not only our own room but our own building as well. Not bad for 3 Euros. It was very nice, quiet, and clean. At Monte Gozo we also met up with Max and got a local reccomendation on a nearby restaurant which proved to be great. 8 Euros for 4 courses with wine included. Definitely one of the best meals I´ve had on the Camino....... Today I walked in on my own and met up with Max and Frank at the Cathedral. After mass we looked for a place and found a nice 3 bed pension in the middle of the city for 55 Euros a night. Approx 18 Euros per person and good step up from an Albergue. Max an I roamed around this afternoon running into all kinds of people we´ve met along the way. Here I am, thousands of miles from home in a city I´ve never been, running into all kinds of friends and comrades. Really gotta love the Camino community. It´s been nice to feel a part of something bigger than just being by myself..... Tomarrow will be my first real rest day in a month. I´ll just roam around and sit in cafes. Tomarrow is also my birthday and other pilgrims know, so, who knows ? There may be a birthday party somewhere.... I´ll post more thoughts and some photos tomarrow....

October 1, 2008

Bloggin on the Camino....

I must say blogging on the Camino leaves alot to be desired. There is so much that happens everyday and life is so rich. So many sights, so many people, so many thoughts. When I sit down to write I often don´t know where to start. What you see in my blog is really just a collection of snipets. Merely snap shots of a moving picture. Often when I blog its not the most convenient time to write, or, even a time when I feel like writing. However, I really enjoy being able to share what I can when I have a chance. I´ve really made an effort to seek out a computer every evening. Often times the computers I find are non funciona or intermittantly funciona. Not to mention, internet time in Spain is relatively expensive and free albergue computers are often hard to use for more than 10 - 15 min..... I have not followed or seen any news for the past month. I know that Houston had a hurricance right after I left but I know very few details. I also have been quite bad about managing my personal emails, so, my apologies to anyone I´ve been slow to respond to..... I´m sure I´ll have more to write about the Camino after the Camino when I can sit down, collect thoughts and focus a bit more... Buen Camino !

Almost to Santiago - Last Night Was A Blast !

I guess it´s appropriate that tunes from Bob Dylans album, ¨Slow Train Coming¨, rolled around my head as I walked this morning. The Camino is a little different now. My thoughts have been taken on a more comtemplative tone. I´ve been walking alone..... I may be walking alone but I´m not alone. There are alot of new faces and people walking with little day packs talking on their cell phones. At least that´s the way it was yesterday morning. You see, in order to be a bonified certified recognized official Pilgrim all you need to do is walk the last 100k of the Camino. Upon arrival in Santiago you then go to a special office and show an official your credential. A credential is a booklet that allows you to collect rubber stamps from albergues, churches, and misc. places along the way to prove you were really on the Camino. Upon official approval you then recieve a compostela (certificate) that declares you a certified pilgrim....Portomarin is close to 100k from Santiago. Yesterday I got my usual late start and quickly found myself within a herd walkers I´ve never seen. The core group of fellow walkers who have been on the Camino awhile has been diluted by a fresh set of newbies. I arrived at the first cafe/bar and it was packed. After a quick cup of coffee I decided I needed to move ahead of the heard. It took me all morning to do so but by afternoon I found the Camino to be more tranquil. Knowing that the herd would be staying in Palas de Rei I chose to push a little further and found myself in the quiet enclave of Casanova for the night. There´s a nice little albergue there so I asked the hospitalero if I could camp. She then ran across the street to ask someone if I could camp in the farmers field next to the albergue. No problema, so thats what I did. While setting up camp I noticed what sounded like nearby shot gun blasts but did´nt think much of it. When I crawled into my tent for the night the blasts were still going off. Being a Texan I did´nt think much of it. I then noticed the blasts were going off at 10 to 15 min intervals. I expected it to stop but it did´nt. This lasted all night and in all honesty I still slept ok. It really did´nt bother me. This morning when I left I hardly noticed it anymore because I´d gotten so use to it. Amazing. Not sure what it was but now I don´t think it was a shot gun. I think it´s some kind of automatic blast to run rodents and birds away from a farmers garden. Again, I´m amazed at how things that would bother the heck out of me at home don´t bother me much, if at all, on the Camino.... Today was a fairly average walking day and although I´m seeing more people on the Camino I did´nt experience the actual herd today. Tonight I´m camped in a very nice field behind the albergue in Ribadiso... Tomarrow will be my last full day of walking beofore Santiago. I plan to stop just shy of arriving in the city. I´m approx. 4o km away...

September 29, 2008

The Lush Green Mountains and Hills of Galicia



The walking thru Galicia on the Camino has been splendid, delightful and lovely. A bit like England I´d say ! Yesterday I walked to Sarria the long way via Samos. The Camino between Samos and Sarria was especially nice. I saw no other walkers on that section. Most pilgrims stop at Samos to stay a night at an albergue located within the monestary there. I debated staying but it was early and the walking pleasantly splendid. Like I said, a bit like England ! By time I arrived in Sarria I took my time looking for a place. I visited 5 different albergues before deciding on one. Travel Guru Rick Steves says if you have the time and opportunity you should always look at 3 places before deciding on one. Anyway, I was happy with my choice and 7 Euros is within the budget. I then set out for a meal. I often try to find a menu de Perigrino for dinner. It´s usually a pretty good deal with some sort of pasta or salad, entre, desert and a bottle of wine. Water if you do´nt want wine. It usually runs between 8 & 10 Euros and I´ve always been satisfied except for one occasion. Anyway, I stumbled into a place and noticed a Brit I´ve seen here and there over the last few days. He was sitting alone so I joined him. He had just ordered so I got my order in quick and we each began drinking our bottles of wine. His name is Clive and he´s 52. He works only 12 weeks a year and spends 6 months of the year living in Goa, India. While in India he gets around on his Royal Enfield 350 motorbike. He warmed up quite abit when he found out that I know a little about the joys of a riding Royal Enfield in India. I´ve never riddin one but I know a little about the culture of owning one. They break down often and in India that´s part of the fun. We swapped stories as we finished off our bottles of wine and headed back to the albergue I was staying out for a glass of grappa. I then played guitar for a group of Pilgrims sitting by fireplace while I sipped my drink. It was nice evening... How did I feel in the morning ? Remarkably well actually ! Go figure. Bread and cheese all day. Pasta, greasy chicken and fries for dinner washed down with a bottle of wine and a shooter of grappa before bed. Fuel for the furnace I suppose. I burn alot of Calories walking the Camino and sometimes thats just what the body needs !.... This morning the hills and fields were full of fog and mist. Alot like England! I was feeling quite grand and thought about my final days of walking to Santiago. I´ve decided to slow the pace and just enjoy the Camino to the fullest...I figure I´ll reach Santiago on Friday. With less than a 100 km to go there are two kinds of walkers. Those racing to the finish and those who slow it down. I´m slowing it down. I made 3 lengthy leisurely stops today at three different bars. First stop cafe, Second stop tuna empanada, Third Stop Lentil soup, rice and beer. The villages were frequent today and I took advantage of what they had to offer. By noon the sky was all blue and full of sun. The 23 km walk to Portomarin was fine with me so I checked into an albergue for the night......On a another note I´d really like to thank everyone who has been following my blog and have posted comments. Unfortunately I´m not able to respond directly to all who have posted. I do not recieve a return email address for anonymous posts. You can email me direct at: worldtravelerandthinker@yahoo.com .. David Petersen ! Yeah man ! Send me your address.... Cheers !

September 27, 2008

Into The Mountains - Galicia - Camino de Santiago

I´m now in the Region of Spain known as Galicia. Lush green moutains and hills full of Celtic history. Villages here are more accurately described as hamlets and don´t be suprised if the local bar is playing dulcimer bagpipe music.....The weather has been superb and my enthusiam for mountain walking has me moving faster than I ought to be. I´ve been feeling really good but today I must admit I felt a little tired. Yesterday I walked all the way to La Faba. I took the high route out of Villafranca del Bierzo up along a moutain ridge and then down to a valley for some road walking. After numerous kilometers of walking thru small touristy villages I finally climbed out of the valley and up into the village of La Faba where I set up camp in a park next to an albergue for the night. I then got washed up and set out to find the local bar for a meal. That was when I caught up to the Swiss gang once again! They had checked into a smaller more esoteric albergue. The place is run by a charismatic healthy looking 50 ish year old German man named Marcel. The albergue, housed in an ancient building, is decorated with all sorts of eastern art, statues, etc., with mystical music playing in the background. Very interesting atmosphere. Marcel is a vegetarian and offers a veggie dinner. The Swiss were in so I joined them and a few other pilgrims. I must say it was the most healthy meal I´ve had in Spain. My staple diet has consisted mostly of bread, cheese, ham, apples and, for better or worse, high fiber cookies. There were 8 of us at dinner and everyone spoke German except for me so the language of the eveing was German. Fair enough. Marcel sells jewelry, has a garden, runs the albergue etc. etc. He gets help with the place by offering pilgrims room and board if they´d like to stay for awhile. Micah loved the place and has decided to stay. How long ? She does´nt know. I´m sure it will be an interesting experience and I wish her well...... The nice thing about camping is that I don´t have to be out of the albergue by 8 am which is generally the rule. Today I got a nice leisurely start at 9:45 and caught up to Mark and Simon around lunch time. We walked together until Triacastela where I decided to call it a day. They continud on a little further. The large open grassy area surrounded the municipal albergue in Triacastela is great for camping and that´s where I´m at for the night...........

Camino de Santiago - Mas Photos






September 26, 2008

Murias - Ponferrada - Villafranca & Amazing 11 Year Old

It´s Friday morning and I´m in a smokey coffee bar in the village of Villafranca del Bierzo. I started from Cacabelos earlier this morning and enjoyed a nice walk across hilly vineyards as workers were setting out to harvest grapes. It´s a cold morning today and my hands are just now warming up enough to type.... I never drink coffee but somehow I picked up the habit about a week ago. I like a cup of tea every now and then but men who drink tea in Spain are not considered real men. I consider myself a real man so I guess I´ll be a coffee drinker while in Spain. Not to mention, it enhances my hiking pace !... ..Where Have I been the last couple of days ? Well, I´ve been walking quite a bit. I definitely have my hiking legs back and aside of cold nights the weather has been fabulous. The last time I posted I was in Murias de Rechivaldo. The terrrain has really changed. For days on end I´d been walking across relatively flat and rolling agricultural lands but now it´s hills and mountains. From Murias I walked to Acebo and passed thru the mtn villages of Foncebadon and Manjarin which appear to be revived by alternative hippy types. Really interesting places. I then continued over Cruz de Feero where I tossed a rock that I´d been carrying for days. It landed atop apile of stones that have been tossed by pilgrims for god knows how long. The site is marked not only by the rock pile but by a tall pole with a crucifix atop of it. I think I´ve been frogiven of more sins for doing so. That night I camped in a courtyard behind an albergue for the night. Yesterday I set out from Acebo thinking of a short day to Ponferrada but just felt like walking so I continued to Cacabelos where I checked into a very nice albergue. Only 2 beds to a room and I had a room to myself. Not bad for 5 Euros. Also, I once again caught up to the Swiss gang of Mark, Micah, and Simon at the Cacabelos albergue. Micah greeted me with a big hug. Ah yes ! Another great reunion!.....Now for something more interesting. The place I camped at in Acebos is a private family run albergue, hotel, and restaurant. Naturally, I ate at the restaurant. I joined a mother and daughter from Australia for dinner. The mother is probably 40 something and her daughter is 11. They started in France on September 2. When asked why they were walking the Camino her daughter informed me that her father died last year and her mother said they were doing the Camino as a way to help them get on with life. The mother is an artist / circus performer and her daughter Zebbidi is quite impressive. Very athletic and sharp as a tack. Zebbi, as I´ll call her, is the driving force behind this mother daughter hiking team and a true purist. She is walking every step and the 40 km she hiked on the day I met them did´nt seem to phase her. The guide book they are carrying is very poor. Zebbi asked to barrow my book and maps after dinner because she wanted to plan another 40 km day. By her mothers expression Zebbi is clearly the one dragging mom along the Camino. Quite an amazing role reversal if you ask me. Yesterday I walked around 35 km. Zebbi and mom went further and did around 42 km. I seriously doubt I´ll see them again.... Another impressive walker is a man walker is a man I met just a couple of days ago. He´s an 80 year old Frenchman who started in France and is walking over 30 km a day. I just saw him again this morning. I was really interested in asking him what it was like when the Germans occupied France during WW2 but he only speaks French.... So many interesting people on the Camino.... Today I´ll continue for another 20 km or so. Its another beautiful day and the coffee has kicked in !... Wonder who I´ll meet today ?... Buen Camino !

September 23, 2008

Lucky Man

So, What goes on in the mind of the self proclaimed, ¨World Traveler and Thinker¨, while walking the Camino? Just about everything and nothing. Today as I walked, the Elton John Song, ¨Levon¨, rolled around my head for hours.... I Intend to share a bit of my thoughts but first I´ll fill you in on the last couple of days. Yesterday I left Leon and planned to stay in Mazriffe but found the walking to be quick and easy despite clouds and rain so I continued further. I walked with Ave most of the day. She had some good stories. My favorite was her story of the summer she ran off with the Circus as a dancer. Not sure what I´ve mentioned about her but she´s from Estonia and attends University in Liverpool England. She´s a language major and speaks Spanish better than most Spaniards. During the afternoon we were suprised to catch up again with the Swiss gang of Mark, Micah, and Simon.  In the evening we all arrived together in the village of Hospital de Orbigo. The Swiss gang went one way looking for a camp ground and Ave and I went straight to an albergue. It was cold and rainy. At the Albergue we caught up to Petra and another Czech by the name of Anna. Petra and Anna fixed an incredible meal that included salad and pasta. They were very impressed that I was impressed so Petra jokingly asked if I wanted to marry them. Wow! I´ve never been proposed to before!... This morning I set out alone and met up with the Swiss gang that unknowingly stayed at an albergue right across the street from where the rest of us were! Today I walked with the Swiss until Astorga. In Astorga I contemplated staying at a hotel for a change but decided to push a little further later in the afternoon. The rain had cleared and it was sunny. I had a feeling that the albergue in Murias de Rechivaldo might have good camping. Right I am. Tonight I´m camped in a grassy back yard with young fruit trees. Very nice an peaceful.... Everyone else pushed on to El Ganso.......Ok, I find it ironic that I entitled this post lucky man when I just found out that I´ve lost my camino journal with notes. I was behind by a couple of days so I must have left it in Leon. Oh Well. Good thing I´ve been blogging !..... Anyway, a common thought that has been on mind while walking is how lucky I am. For me being lucky and being blessed are one and the same. Like anyone I´ve had my share of up´s and down´s, in´s and out´s, triumphs and dissapointments. No matter how things may have seemed, either good or bad, I´ve been lucky all along.  I can think of many dissapointments and let downs that actually led to greater things.  Sometimes the best lessons are learned out of adversity.  For the most part I think I´ve made pretty good choices througout life but even the bad choices have made me a better person for the lessons I´ve learned.  I guess you can say I´ve been especially grateful while walking the Camino. Not to mention, I feel extremely lucky and/or very blessed....

Camino De Santiago - The Middle Miles - Photos




Camino de Santiago Photos ! Every Picture Tells A Story..