Not Exactly As Planned

I’m currently at a coffee shop in Boulder, Colorado. I went for a nice short hike this morning and figured I’d type something up for the blog. Over the last month I’ve been in the Denver area but took a short trip to Wisconsin. I originally planned to road trip out to California upon my return from Wisconsin but got hung up in Denver due to car issues. Due to time constraints I had to abandon the road trip idea but got back to work shopping for inventory at estate sales in Denver. I was blessed with dumb luck again in the form of a rare mid century speaker. In a couple of days I’ll return to Houston.

Thus far this year has certainly been a roller coaster of sorts. Several bouts of vertigo followed by a stint in paradise then a month of antibiotics combined with episodes of some of the best dumb luck I’ve ever had leaves me feeling satisfied enough, yet, disconnected if that makes any sense. More than usual, plans have been disrupted. Unsettled is usually something I roll with pretty well. At times I seek it for the sake of keeping life interesting, however, I currently feel a little out of place, a bit sideways, and/or played out. I’ve been oscillating inconsistently between periods of contentment and irritably while pondering the next scene but the background music doesn’t match the screenplay. While distracted or out of sorts I prefer to distance myself from friends etc. as patience can run a little thin when I’m not feeling like myself.

I suppose it’s only natural, as one approaches a birthday divisible by 10, there’s an element of self-evaluation. In a couple of weeks I’ll turn 50. All in all I’d say I’ve had my share successes and failures but can’t really complain. Some things I’ve done really well and other things I could have done a lot better. Riddles and crossroads abound along the path I’ve chosen but I refuse to cut a deal with complacency or sell out for status quo. It’s all relative. As the guru says, “When you come upon a fork in the road, take it”. I don’t have a problem with that. It’s the roundabouts that throw me off.

As I mentioned I took short trip to Wisconsin. I wrote a little about it but never got around to posting. It goes as follows…..

Thursday, August 27, Milwaukee Airport…

Wisconsin is my current place of travel. The somewhat Asian looking hipster barista poured me a stiff cup of mild coffee to pass my time while I await my brother in law, sister, and nephew who will be arriving 3 hours later. I’ve taken a seat at a table beneath a large American flag. The terminal offers a good selection of Green Bay Packer gear. It’s airy with a tall architectural ceiling and relaxed feel. A bar offers serve yourself beer on tap. Internet is free for 20 minutes. I flew out from Denver where I’ve been the last week visiting my mother.

The plane was a small CRJ commuter jet designed for medium sized people and smaller. For once the person sitting next to me was not an overweight business traveler but a nice attractive young woman from Taos, New Mexico who was a pleasure to talk to. That made the flight time pass quickly.

Friday, August 28, Door County Wisconsin…

I awoke from a poor night’s sleep under a slanted roof upon a twin bed in a loft of an old 1940’s summer cabin next to the shore of the Bay of Green. I jumped into my running clothes before heading out to the bunkhouse garage to help round up a bicycle for my fourteen year old nephew. I admired vintage outboard motors as we searched for a pump to fill the bike tires.

It doesn’t get much more Americana than rural Door County, Wisconsin with lots of small farms, red barns, and domed silos. Quiet roads are ideal for running. My nephew cruised along on a bike speeding ahead and lagging behind taking photos with quick breaks to immediately post his day for everyone to see on the internet. A quick four miles was all I needed to reset. The run was followed with a swim in the Bay of Green.

Lambeau Field…

Arguably the greatest and most famous American football stadium in the world is Lambeau Field, home of the Green Bay Packers . It’s also popularly known as the frozen tundra with no roof or protection for the bitter winter games. The Packers were formed in 1919 and the stadium was built in the late 1950’s. In more recent times the stadium has seen upgraded but local pride and tradition demands it remain roofless. There is no problem selling out games no matter what the conditions are. It’s the Pride of Wisconsin.

My Brother in law’s roots run deep from Milwaukee to Appleton and Door County to Green Bay. For this trip I was just along for the ride as I got a chance to tour the world he had grown up in. Saturday afternoon was spent at Lambeau simply checking it out, touring the Packer Hall of Fame, and enjoying lunch with beer brewed on premises in honor of Curly Lambeau at restaurant named 1919.
Tradition runs very deep with the Green Bay Packers and pride still maters even though Vince Lombardi, the most legendary football coach of all time, has long left us and Green Bay.

Saturday, August 29, Lambeau Field, Game Day

It cost me two beers when I kicked a football in the parking lot and knocked over another person’s drinks. My brother in law and his best friend from childhood got the grill going. A band in the near distance provided music as we tossed a football with other tailgaters bunched in eating, drinking, and playing games. The colors of the day were green, yellow, and denim.

As time approached for pre-season game three kick off we left the parking lot and joined crowds shuffling slowly like a group of pilgrims headed towards Mecca. Up steps and through an iron framed cathedral like entrance we entered a holy place of great NFL significance.

Being pre-season made the game not particularly interesting but sitting in the stadium under nearly perfect weather conditions while gazing upon the field was very nice and enjoyable. In some ways I’d say Lambeau was on my 100 places to visit before you die list. So, I got to mark that one off.

Our remaining time in Wisconsin was spent at the Lake house. I got in a couple more runs and a little more swimming in the lake. The flight back to Denver was a little exciting as once again I was in a small CRJ commuter jet. We were delayed arriving with a bumpy skirt around a severe thunderstorm with lighting cracking off to the left side view not too far away.

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Well, As earlier stated I’ll be back in Houston in a couple of days. I’ll need to focus on work for a short while but hope to be off doing something more interesting later this fall.

Checking In From Hot Houston

If there were ever a trip that I returned from and felt out of place at home, now is the time. A general disinterest in my surroundings combined with Texas heat and humidity makes Houston unappealing right now. As I munch on antibiotics to combat Lyme’s disease, which I may or may not have contracted, I can’t say I’m experiencing any side effects aside of a feeling that I’m poisoning myself to some degree. The shining light is that work has been pretty good and I instinctively feel like I am where I’m supposed to be even though it doesn’t make perfect sense.

The Greek Islands have ruined me as the Texas coast now looks like a bland mess with bathtub warm water, discarded watermelon rinds, and sauna like heat. A lack of sophistication clad in sloppy t-shirt, flip flops, and bad tattoos is prevalent at times. The charm that often comes with simplicity smells like old beer, cigarettes, and a missed shower or two. Perhaps the evenings along the Texas coast are kind of nice but things look different via a reframed perspective.

The space in-between I refer to as, “The Disconnect”, may make one feel kind of lost but as I’ve grown older I find it to be more interesting than anything. Life is about time and timing. I know I’ll come out the other end with a decision or step one way or another. The anticipation of what lays beyond makes it exciting. Periods like this are symbiotic with a holding pattern of sorts. I move quickly once direction descends upon me.

Back In Houston - Probably A Good Thing

It’s currently 95 degrees in Houston but sunny and not terribly humid. I’m still shaking a little Jet lag and feel pretty disconnected from the City as I really wasn’t ready to come home nor did I really have to. However, I think I did the right thing.

A few days before I left Greece I developed a rash under the top part of my arm. I also felt mildly achy with a bit of a stiff neck but my energy level was fine. I really didn’t think much of it until the rash got a little worse and I thought it might be getting infected. When I arrived home the rash was starting to get better but it was obviously caused by some kind of bite and I felt I should get it looked at just be safe.

The Dr. took a look at it and said it was definitely and insect bite. I then told him where I’d been and what I had been doing. He suspected there was a chance I may have contracted Lyme’s disease and was adamant I start treatment immediately. He said it wasn’t worth taking a chance. Although he couldn’t confirm for sure that I had been exposed to Lyme’s I did run into a mess of ticks while hiking through North Devon on the Southwest Coast Path in England. I found a total of ten ticks crawling me while hiking. They were the type that could potentially carry the disease but I didn’t find a single one dug in. However, the ticks are so small they can be easy to overlook. It’s not uncommon for someone diagnosed with Lyme’s to ever remember being bitten by a tick. I developed the rash at precisely the time you would expect for incubation. The rash was similar to other reported cases but not the classic bulls eyes type. A stiff or achy neck is a classic common symptom in the very early stages of Lyme’s. There was enough suspicion to warrant caution so I heeded the Dr’s advice and started treatment immediately. Often this is how Lyme’s is diagnosed, deductive reasoning, because the test used to confirm diagnoses is not always accurate.

Fortunately early treatment is cheap and well tolerated with an 87% success rate. If you don’t do something early Lyme’s can cause all sorts of problems years down the line. I can’t say I’m thrilled about being on antibiotics for 30 days but at least it’s a mild antibiotic that doesn’t seem to be causing any side effects. The drug has a low incidence of negatives with the most common being nausea when taken on an empty stomach.

In one regard I feel out of place being in Houston right now but on the other hand, considering the circumstance, I feel like I’m where I’m supposed to be. My cuurent plan is to settle back into a work routine until I finish the meds then consider a little road trip out West. I am also thinking of traveling overseas in the Fall.

All in all my recent travels in England and Greece went really well. The trip home via ferry to Athens, flight to London, two night layover in London, and flight back to Houston went like clockwork despite a Tube strike the day I left. Greece really impressed me and I plan to spend at least a month in the Greek Islands next year. I’ll most likely go during the month of June.

My last stop in London was kind of interesting. Every time I stop in London I stay somewhere different. This time I stayed in South London at the National Sports Center in Crystal Palace Park. I took a room in worn out funky 70’s contemporary designed multi-level building constructed for housing athletes. The complex and park are kind of peculiar and at one time a big attraction. Now, it’s just kind of oddly interesting.

I checked into my room at the complex early in the evening and walked uphill to a nearby pub with a good atmosphere. I noticed it was quiz night so I roamed around asking teams if they needed an extra teammate. I wound up crashing a family birthday and sat between dad and his very attractive daughter who I suppose was in her late 20’s or early 30’s. It was mom’s birthday.

As is often the case when traveling I can be very outgoing and quite social. It really comes out when I travel, much more so than when at home. Another pint and I fit right in. Quiz night at a pub is not only about coming up with the answers to riddles it’s also about drinks, laughter, and stories. British Pubs have got to be some of the best places in the world for swapping stories. Pubs are about pints and conversation. More often than not there is no music. If there’s music it’s rarely loud so conversation is always easy. Anyway, I had a great time. Good fun.

For my last day in London I just walked around Crystal Palace Park. On the morning of my departure I negotiated the Tube strike by taking the Southern line to Victoria Station then walked across Hyde Park to Paddington Station to catch the Heathrow express. The strike wound up costing me an extra $35 USD to get to the airport without worry. I made good time and was able to use my complimentary United Club Pass for a 3 hour wait in a posh lounge with loads of complimentary food and drink. The icing on the cake, for the flight home, was a row of 3 seats all to myself on a Boeing 787 for a 10 hour trip. Very comfortable! It allowed me to lay down. I was very lucky because the flight was almost full.

Again, it was a very good trip. For now I’ll just hang tight and make some money. We’ll see where the future leads me next……

I Love The Islands But It's Time To Go Home

As stated in my last post it seems a shame to leave the Greek islands right now. I really don’t have to rush home but for whatever reason I feel like that is what I need to do. This morning I boarded a ferry from Amorgos to Pireaus (Athens). I’ll spend the night in Athens then fly to London where I’ll have a couple of days to transition before for the flight back to Houston. One thing for sure is that I’ve had a great trip and will be leaving on a high note. Upon my return I will have been gone for a little over 5 weeks that has passed incredibly fast.

For my last day in the Amorgos I spent my time swimming off the small rocky beaches of Agia Anna and stared at the sea from a small taverna perched above. It’s a spectacular place to swim and somewhat of a pilgrimage site for the French who are drawn there by the movie, “The Big Blue”. The water is serenely clear, clean, and of course, Blue. If you haven’t seen the movie I highly recommend it.

The previous day I hiked up a valley from Aigiali upon old donkey paths to traverse a steep mountain on trail to a small chapel sat upon a fiercely windy saddle. I would have liked to continue up to a mountain summit but it was wickedly windy. I returned to Aigiali mostly retracing my steps with a variation to visit a couple of more white washed blue trimmed chapels that seems to be scattered all over the Greek Islands.

Back in Aigiali wanted to swim at beach while waiting to catch a return bus to Katapola. I asked a young French couple if they could watch my stuff while I swam. Theft seems to be unheard on the small Islands but it’s when you get too comfortable that stuff disappears. After swimming I returned the favor while the French couple went for a swim. When they returned I struck up a conversation with the woman who is from Lyon. She was very nice and chatty. The boyfriend was from Paris. He was quiet and not particularly friendly. I then got the impression he wasn’t too happy with the easy conversation I was having with his girlfriend. Trust me; it was nothing more than simple conversation. Oh those silly Parisians, or, maybe I just got the wrong impression.

My final evening in Amorgos had me debating whether to extend my time on the Islands or not. I tried to make a few calls over skype but couldn’t get a good connection. I just wanted to see what changing tickets would cost, options, etc… I couldn’t really get anywhere with that but in the process I decided to stick with my original plans to head home and bought a ferry ticket back to Athens at about 10 pm. Sometimes it’s best to stick with an original plan when indecisiveness blurs clear thinking.

Once I boarded the ferry and arrived back in Athens I started to feel like going home. I then began to think about other things I’d like to do when I get back. I’m missing the guitar and I’ve got a pile of work inventory I’d really like to clean up, liquidate. I’ve got money in reserve for another trip so I might consider traveling again in the fall. For the time being my cup feels full. When I arrive home I’m sure I’ll have a tired yet satisfied feeling. Needless to say I am definitely returning to Greece! The only thing I’m not looking forward is the jet lag that comes with an 8 hour time difference.
 

Amorgos, Greece

I may have made a mistake by purchasing a return ticket. That’s how much I am liking the Greek Islands. I’ve strayed away from the most popular areas and landed via ferry in Katapola on the Island of Amorgos. Within fifteen minutes I once again found a nice room in a pension for $25 Euro a night. Katapola also has a campground that’s nearly empty for $7 Euro a night but I’m going on easy on myself.

If I wanted a little slice of France in Greece I’ve found it on Amorgos. A well know art film, “The Big Blue”, was filmed in Amorgos in 1988 by a French director. The shot locations are stunning and have been calling tourists from France ever since. Amorgos is an independent traveler destination so there are no cruise ships, tour groups, etc. Aside of the French the Swedes have also discovered Amorgos. English is the universal language between Greek, French, and Swedish. I have yet to meet another American.

Amorgos is a very arid Island with Mountains rising abruptly from the sea. It measures approximately 30 km in length with its widest section only a few kilometers. Over the last two days I’ve hiked upon old donkey trails with one route taking me along a mountain ridgeline with the ocean to the right, left, then right again as I traversed high through mountain saddles. A few clouds sped over head as the Islands have been unseasonably windy. One local informed me that the weather has been autumn like. However, there is no chance of rain.

On my walk yesterday, while crossing the mountains from Chora to Egiali, I visited the Monastery, Chosoviotissa, built into a cliff wall above steep rocky mountain slope that disappears into a dark blue void below. Visitors are welcome with proper attire so I slipped long pants over my shorts. You have to hunch over to enter a small door to climb steep narrow steps that lead to a small room of worship. A balcony provides a view outside. Living quarters are set off in the opposite end of the building.

After visiting the chapel a heavy set monk in orthodox garb directs you to a hospitality room where you are served a traditional powder sugar coated gelatinous sweet with Raki, a local grape whiskey liquor flavored with honey and spices. A glass of water is also provided. You are then welcome to purchase a souvenir or make a donation.

From the monastery I continued on towards Egiali passing through a village where I saw a man hauling water and a small goat on a donkey. I took his photo and he waved erratically at me. I wasn’t sure if it was a hello or sign language for not liking his picture taken. I also passed an old man walking as he herded a few cows and bull. The high route appropriately known as, “ The Old Way”, provided outstanding views. Upon arriving in Eigali I had lunch on a terrace overlooking the sea then went for a swim before catching a bus back to Katapola.

The warm sunny island life really suits me. The nice thing about the Greek Islands is that it’s not too humid nor too hot. There are no tropical diseases or any major health concerns. The people are nice and it’s easy to get around with just English. There are many Islands to choose from varying from a full on tourist destination to barely discovered. In all there are approximately 1400 islands with about 225 inhabited. Depending on what you consider an island the number could be in the thousands. 

Right now the price tag is very reasonable for traveling Greece. At times it can be downright cheap unless you’re in the most popular tourists regions during the high season which starts in mid- July. August I am told is ridiculously busy but as on Greek told me, “Without August we couldn’t make it”. The Island Greeks fully embrace visitors and tourism. The most popular destinations seem to be Santorini and Mykonos, both of which can be expensive.

I could easily spend the entire summer in the Greek Isles. Remarkably my finances are holding out well. It seems kind of a shame to leave Greece and head home to an awfully hot humid Houston summer but on a deeper level I feel like I should probably stick with my original plan. One thing is for sure, all things considered, I’m certainly doing something right and feel incredibly lucky. It’s all in the choices we make.

Naxos - More Walking & Beach

For my second day on Naxos I decided to pick up where I left off the previous and took a bus back up to Apiranthos. I got a little later start than the day before and had to endure heaps of annoying chatter from a pack of Australian women in a totally packed bus. After the hour long ride that made several stops along the way I was ready to get walking.

The route leaving Apiranthos was well signed and easy to find. I climbed up above the village to a saddle on a ridge. From there I followed a dirt road for a short distance and made my way up to Chapel Fanariotisa which sits atop Naxos’s third highest mountain. I then retraced my steps to the saddle to find an old donkey trail leading into the next valley on my way to Moni.

Well, the route finding turned out to be a lot less defined than the day before. It was what I’d expect. The rugged descent track was actually quite impressive and not too difficult to follow. I have no idea how old the path is but a lot of work went into setting stone and cutting trail at one time. I imagine it was probably a heavily traveled route hundreds of years ago. Route finding became more challenging when I neared the valley with trees and numerous goat paths. For a short section it was very well marked but that didn’t last long. In reality you are never really that lost in mountains and valleys but if you are not careful it’s easy to waste a lot of time roaming around getting frustrated trying to determine the best way to get to where you want to go.

I found my skills being tested to some degree but in a fun sort of way. As I neared the village of Moni the already very poorly marked trail just kind of faded into a braided mess of goat trails. It was more or less impossible to follow the mapped route so I simply created my own route and by chance met up with the traul again as I neared Moni.

Moni is a very quiet village like a lot of villages on Naxos. White buildings of stone and mortar tightly packed together with narrow flagstone type walkways form a maze between homes. As I tried to find my way through the village I negotiated a donkey blocking the path. Apparently there’s a nice Taverna with a view. I couldn’t find the Taverna but I did find my way out of the village and stumbled upon the Church known as Panagia Drosiani with original faded Byzantine frescos dating back to the 7th Century.

From the church I followed a short stretch of road before finding trail routes that led me to the village of Kalaxilos and Chalki. I ended the walk in Chalki at a bus stop. Chalki is an interesting village in of itself so as the time neared for the bus to arrive people started showing up. A woman sat next to me sharing bench I was sitting on.

More people started gathering and the bus was running a little late so I started talking to her. As it turns out she is a professional photographer from California on a two week trip alone in the Greek Isles taking photos as well as making it a vacation. We talked on the bus ride and got something eat once back in Chora (Naxos Town). I don’t meet many single women traveling who are close to my age. It was easy to relate to one another with travel stories etc. We decided to meet up again the next day and figured we would go to the beach.

So, that’s what we did. Plakka beach is said to be one of the best beaches in the Mediterranean. Now that’s a big claim to make and I’m not sure I agree but it is a good beach. It stretches for well over a mile like a quarter moon. Small family run restaurants line a sandy road with umbrellas and chairs set on the shore below.

A chair under an umbrella for the day costs $5 Euros. A 20 ounce bottle of beer costs $3.50 Euros. Attendants/waiters are relaxed, attentive, and friendly. The water is crystal clear and cool. The sun is bright and sunny. I had a sandwich for $4.50 Euros, made fresh. Greece is proving to be very affordable if not cheap at times.

After spending all afternoon on the beach we walked across the road to a family restaurant with open air seating and a grand view beyond the water of the Island of Paros. Dinner consisted of local lamb with local potatoes and local homemade wine. Upon paying the bill we were each given a nice glass of some type whisky liquor made from grapes. I’m sure it was home made as well. A walk on the beach was in order afterwards before catching the bus back to Chora. At that point we parted ways as her trip is coming to and she had to catch a ferry the following day. I think we both enjoyed the company as is often the case when you are a solo traveler who meets another solo traveler at the right juncture with something in common.

This morning I awoke feeling slightly off with a mild hangover but knew I could shake it quick with a walk. Once again I took a bus up to the mountains and got off in the village of Koronida. The road getting there is kind of impressive. It’s more or less a classic winding mountain road with a steep drop off to one side and too narrow for more than one vehicle in various sections.

Koronida sits about 1500 feet above the fishing village of Apollonas. From the village there’s a nice easy gradual downhill hike along the top of an open ridge which provides a great view of mountains and sea. Apollanas is a lovely old village surrounded by mountains with a nice bay that provides a beach for swimming at a small waterfront. I sat down for lunch at nice spot for average quality food and at a slightly inflated price. Apollanas is a very quiet place that must see most all of it’s visitors during the day. I didn’t notice much for accommodation.

It took an hour and forty five minutes to get back to Chora via bus. I shook off the bus ride with a swim and realized at that moment I’m kind of tired. Tomorrow I’ll take it easy as I board a ferry at noon for the island of Amorgos.

Naxos - Mt Zues - Hiking

 

For my first Island stop I chose Naxos because I had never heard of it and my guidebook said you get a lot of bang for your buck. I didn’t bother to try and book anything for Naxos and figured I’d probably camp. Upon more consideration I wasn’t too thrilled about how tents in a campground are lined up under covering looking like parking sites in an apartment complex. I feared the noise of young college aged partiers with the walls of the tent giving no respite from unwanted sound.

It was a five hour ferry ride to Naxos from Athens. There were not many people on the ferry and when I stepped off I somewhat expected to be hounded by touts from various accommodations. Well, there were plenty of people holding up signs but all were confined to a couple of specific areas. I suppose there use to be problems with aggressive hawkers but not anymore. A couple tried to get my attention but I failed to make eye contact and walked on past. I then headed straight up to the old town that sits above the harbor. I figured I'd first check out a place the guidebook suggested.

As I walked up a narrow way between century old buildings turned tourist shops I noticed a hotel sign. The manager, a nice middle aged Pilipino woman, saw me and asked if I needed a hotel. Well, I figured it wouldn’t hurt to take a look. She led me up steep narrow spiraling steps to a Pension with six rooms that had just been refurbished for the season. Old and simple but clean with marble floors and character gave me a good feeling about the place. I asked how much and she responded by asking me how much I wanted to pay. For a moment I had an India flashback. Usually the question is a sign of some degree of desperation. I had expected a decent room with private bathroom would run $40 euros up. Again, she asked what I wanted to pay but I wanted her to come up with a figure first. I then told her I liked the room but would like to check a couple of other places first. She then said $25 euros and commented I wouldn’t find anything cheaper. I figured I wouldn’t and took the room.
About fifteen minutes after arrival my accommodation was set.

Naxos is absolutely beautiful. The ferry docks at a nice harbor with the old town Kastro sitting atop the village of Chora spilling into the sea. The waterfront is café and restaurant lined with open air seating. Shade is provided by awnings, tents, plants, etc. It’s definitely touristy but done well. It's easy to escape the tourists just a few steps inland. My hotel sits within but aback of all the bustling tourism. Logistically it’s a good base for me.

After getting situated I went to a restaurant and watched people walk by, with sailboats gently bobbing in the background, while deciding what to do the next day. I then went for a swim in a nice little protected harbor about a five minute walk from where I’m staying. I searched the sky for a cloud but couldn’t find one.

With a mountain named Zues rising above all other mountains on Naxos and the highest peak in the Cyclade islands of Greece I absolutely wanted to hike it. That was my first objective. I know most everyone comes to the Greek Islands for the beaches, water, night life, and idyllic villages but there is some fantastic hiking that you don’t hear much about.

Today’s hike started with a with a three minute walk to a bakery and bus. I asked the bus driver to drop me at a road leading to a chapel above the village of Filoti. I was happy to find a decent hiking map the day before. I wasn’t sure how well the paths and routes would be marked. A short road walk led me to a chapel. I was happy to see an established trailhead and it appeared as though the routes would be marked by a route number plate and or red paint circle here and there on a rock.

With no problem I found my way to a broad ridge on good trail to rocky ridge to the fine summit of Zeus for a nice view. From the top I descended a different route down into a steep rugged valley with Zeus’s cave. Past a lovely collection of springs contained by stone built pools under large shade trees I found a quiet road which I followed to Filoti. From Filoti I found a well-marked trail back up to the Chapel where I had started the hike up Mt Zeus. Passing the Chapel I descended a different direction, with the sound of goat bells across the valley. I reached the very quiet village of Dankos and began climbing again. Above Dankos I arrived at the 6th century Monastery known as Fotodotis. I stopped to talk with an older French couple who was also walking and went in to the old Byzantine styled place of worship that was being watched by a Greek Orthodox monk. From there I hiked past olive trees and goats grazing with the sea and small islands to my right. Further along I reached the village of Apiranthos, known for it’s old villas. My walk ended there as I sat outside a small café under shade. I caught a bus back to Hora at 4:30 and went for a swim.

I saw a few clouds early but they all went away. It was an absolutely beautiful day. I am really enjoying Greece and am very glad I chose to travel this direction. Tomorrow I’ll walk and swim again. With a good map there’s not much problem getting around by foot and bus. The hiking and walking routes are adequately marked as long as one pays attention.

From England To Greece

I spent Saturday afternoon, after finishing the Coast Path, trying to decide what to do next. I originally planned to hop over to France after the walk but part of me really wanted to go somewhere I haven’t been. After doing laundry I spent time on the laptop mulling over options with varied indecisiveness. From London it’s easy to get anywhere in Europe reasonably.

I had intended to go to France for the Django Jazz Festival as I did last year but I was kind of aching to do something new. I then started thinking about money and questioned how much I’m really into traveling right now and thought of maybe cutting it short and returning home. I then pondered some other varied ideas involving more hiking etc. which started to confuse me. All along the thought of Greece was in the back of my mind. A switch from chilly windy English coast to warm and sunny islands seemed to strike my fancy the most. Within three hours I made a decision and booked a red eye flight for Monday night from London to Athens.

I was sort of having second thoughts Saturday evening but by Sunday morning I booked a hostel in Athens for two nights and started looking at ferry schedules for Island hopping. I guess my hesitation was in the switch from super easy travel with the simplicity of a daily hike to having to be a little more on my toes in a new environment. I didn’t much take into consideration the financial crisis which could throw a monkey wrench into the whole thing but I’m sure it will be ok.

I decided to layover Sunday in Minehead because it’s half the price of London and the bed at the B&B was really comfortable. Monday was a travel day with a late departure out of Heathrow to Athens. It all started with a bus from Minehead to Taunton then a train to London Paddington. From Paddington it was the tube to Heathrow where I arrived quite early figuring I’d take advantage of a United Club Pass. The club was a good idea but getting from my flight terminal to the club terminal is a bit of nightmare and complicated to I settled for a land side terminal 5 pub with a video fire place.

My flight on British Airways left on time and arrived a little early in Athens right at 3 am Tuesday morning. I collected my bag and went through immigration which was nothing, just a scan of the passport and a quick stamp. From there I figured I’d find somewhere in the airport to sleep until the sun came up as many were doing. I dozed a little here and there as I roamed about a bit. By 7am I was on the metro and by 8am I arrived at the hostel. I'm not really much of a fan of city hostels in particular but the one I booked is fantastic.

Check in wasn’t until 1 pm but I was able to put my pack in storage and was told to go ahead and have breakfast. Breakfast is included as is the case throughout most all of Europe when it comes to accommodation. The attendant told me to relax a bit and afterwards he would tell me where to go.

After filling up on fresh fruit, greek yogurt and museli. I got some advice from the attendant and went straight to the famed Acropolis. Well, the Acropolis with the Parthenon and all is pretty impressive but the boat loads of tourists really dilute the experience. Once I got past the fact that I was just going to have to share the site with half the world I began to appreciate it a little more. One real damper was all of the scaffolding and equipment that is currently set up doing restoration work. Of course being mid-morning on a Tuesday didn’t really mean any work was being done at the moment. It seems like half the time I visit similar sorts of places there’s scaffolding set up with no one working.

Anyway, the views of Athens from the hilltop upon where the Acropolis sits are fantastic so I took my time getting the most out of the $12 Euro entry fee. With the gazillions of people who visit the Acropolis every year I figure if Greece raised the entry fee to $20 Euros and the money actually went to the government, the Greek debt crisis could be remedied within a few years.

From the Acropolis I spotted a monument on a hill a short distance to the south. After exiting the Acropolis I walked over to the other hill where I hiked to the top to check out the monument. Just a few people were there, the views were splendid, and there was no entry fee.

I returned to the hostel around 1 pm to check in, shower, and take a nap before finding a nearby locals restaurant for lunch. As I sat at a table along a pedestrian way talking with a couple of Greek ladies sitting next to me I started to get a feel for Athens and Greece. The waiters were relaxed yet attentive and nice. I finished one dish and ordered a salad. The bill came and my change should have been $10.70 Euros but the waiter rounded up in my favor bringing me $11 Euros. In Italy it would have been shorted to $9 Euros. I didn’t notice anyone tipping but I tipped the waiter a Euro which amounts the standard 10% European custom when being served, however, I don’t think it’s expected at a locals joint during lunch in Greece. Anyway, I'm liking the vibe.

So, the general plan is to spend tomorrow in Athens and hop an early ferry on Thursday to some island. As far as the Greek debt crisis goes I don’t think anyone is too worried about it. I asked the attendant at the front desk of the hostel what he thought about the current crisis. He didn’t seem too concerned and stated how Greece really wants to work with Europe on the matter. As I sat outside the restaurant today I didn’t sense any tension or anything like that. It just appeared as though Zorba is still alive and well.

The End Of the Coast Path

Today I reached Minehead, the northern terminus of the Southwest Coast Path. It took me three separate trips to complete the total 630 miles end to end. The first segment I walked in 2011 from the southern terminus of Poole to Teignmoth which is a little over a 100 miles. Last year I returned to the Coast path in Teignmoth and continued on to Perranporth which covered over 300 miles. This year I picked up where I left off last year to finish in Minehead. The Southwest Coast Path is Britain’s longest continuous national trail at 630 miles.

I more or less took 15 ½ days to reach Minehead with two days off which made for a relatively relaxed pace for me. It proved to be the perfect amount of time. With two weeks of hiking in my legs it was an easy jaunt for the final nine miles from Porlock through Bossington to Minehead. Porlock and Bossington are both very nice and quaint with thatch roofed homes and tea houses specializing in cream teas.

I didn’t much care for the farm campground in Porlock. Although nicely located, it’s a bit of racket with hardly anything to offer for the 8 pound price. It was relatively crowded with a school group in an adjoining field. Facilities were minimal. I offset the camping fee by scoring on a large portion of cheap yet good quality fish and chips in the village.

The previous day's hike from Lynmouth to Porlock was mostly forested through blooming Rhododendron, however, the trail has not been maintained very well. With all of the tall grass and such it turned out to be tick heaven. By the end of the day I picked seven small deer ticks off of me. Luckily none had a chance to dig in. I asked at a local at a pub if Lyme’s disease was much of a problem in the area. The bartender said it was around but not too common. Needles to say, I don’t like ticks.

Today I checked in early at a basic B&B in Minehead. I may layover another day just to rest and take it easy. I spent the afternoon mulling over what to do next as I still have more time before I fly home in July. So, I devised a plan. I figure it’s time for something completely different. I’ve spent enough of time in England and have enjoyed plenty of Ale, Fish and Chips, and beautiful scenery. All in all I've been pretty lucky with the weather which is always a variable in the UK. I’m now after consistent sun and different food in a place I’ve never been.

Into Exmoor

The logistically well placed overpriced not so desirable campground in Chivenor worked out fine but I was happy to be on my way early the next day. Whereas the path had been following an inlet for more or less 20 miles I was anxious to return to actual coastline with proper cliffs and all. I passed through the dunes of Braunton Sands as I rounded out the inlet with the long beach of Bruanton Burrows stretching south to my left as I traversed the side of a ridge with a fine view at low tide.

I stopped for a coffee at Croyde Bay, a seaside community with a surfer vibe. From there it was on to Woolacombe, a desirable beach town. I had a look around Woolacombe and a pint at Captain Jacks Pub before ascending a side trail gradually up a valley to a campground with a fabulous view.

The campground is a little more than just a campground. It’s a holiday park with full store, two pools, arcade, pub, restaurant, and a children’s club. All things considered it’s a cheap place for a walker with a tent at 6 ½ pounds for the night.

To keep things easy I figured I’d just grab a curry for dinner at the campground pub which I did. After ordering at the bar I noticed the music was quite loud and of the dance club genre with a heavy monotone beat. I also noticed a stage, dance floor, and disco ball. I took a seat off to the side for and ocean view. Not much longer after I got my curry a woman took the stage as kids starting appearing out of nowhere. Before I knew it a campground mascot showed up looking like something you would see at Disneyland. It kind of looked like a chipmunk. The music banged on with the host breaking in for comments and asked the kids questions like what they did during the day and where they were from. One kid commented that he was from the moon. I thought that was pretty funny.

I hoped the kiddie entertainment would pass quickly but it wasn’t. As it turns out I think that was the idea. Give the parents a break while they order slightly high priced food and drink. Holiday parks offer a variety of camping options from permanently affixed caravans to plain and basic tent sites. They tend to be family oriented and in July and August can be a total zoo. June is still a pretty quiet month as the bigger kids are not out of school yet. The campground was still mostly empty. It didn’t take long for me to find my way of the pub club. I’m just not wired for the kid thing.

I stay at commercial campgrounds for the convenience, affordability, and a hot shower. I could wild camp but I don’t mind paying a few dollars to have a good place to pitch my stuff without worry and shower before roaming a village or finding a pub for the evening. Wild camping usually entails pitching camp late and leaving early in a discreet fashion. It’s not like wilderness camping in the USA. During the summer season you can find campgrounds all over Europe with ease.

When I woke up the next morning in Woolacombe, as they say in England, the weather was filthy. It was raining with a thick mist and fog. Good ‘ol English weather. Of course a walk in England is not complete without foul weather. I packed my wet tent and made my way out of town around Bull Point. Wind, fog, mist drifted around cliff, rock, sea, and very green vegetation. Despite bad weather there was still a beauty to it all. A little over 8 miles later I reached the town of Illfracombe where I stopped at a café because I was craving a full English breakfast and coffee before continuing on to Combe Martin.

I was under the impression that Combe Martin was a quirky place so I definitely intended to stay there. Although the weather was improving a bit it was still windy with more rain forecasted. It was all the more reason to choose a wonderfully quirky B&B for 25 pounds in a Victgorian row house full of old stuff run by an older hippyish artist couple. Sometimes a quirky B&B really is like staying in someone’s personal home and the one in Combe Martin was exactly that. The riddle is to know where you are welcome and not welcome within the household.

B&B in the USA tends to mean Boutique foo foo for a romantic weekend with a generally high price tag similar to a hotel. In Europe B&B can mean anything from Boutique to simple, practical and no frills. I often find B&B’s to be a great value in Europe. Anyway, 25 pounds got me a comfy homey room with shared facilities but I was the only guest.

After checking in I headed to an interesting pub I had heard about. The Pack of Cards pub in Combe Martin is supposedly designed mathematically to resemble a pack of cards and was built in 1690. However, a local informed me that is not really the case but it’s a beautiful old building nonetheless with 3 foot thick walls made of cobbles etc.

The local guy spoke with a deep low voice but had a boisterous laugh. I couldn’t understand everything he was saying but I could tell right away he was curious about me. It was also obvious that he was recovering from seahab as he works on ships and such. No drinking allowed while working at sea. From what I gathered he’s spent his life working on aboard boats and he said he had worked himself up to being an engineer. He knew Houston because he’s been to the ship channel but not the actual city. He fancy’s the Gulf Coast and told me he’s spent time in Savanah, Georgia. Anyway, we talked about politics, social issues, and the problems with so many Africans immigrating to Europe. That seemed to be his biggest complaint. He bought me a second pint but after that I had to leave otherwise I knew I’d be in trouble but I met several other locals before leaving. I must say I give Pack of Cards a thumbs up in the local hospitality department. It’s very friendly pub full of good characters.

Today, Thursday, was a five star hiking day as I entered Exmoor National Part for my final 35 miles. The weather was perfect and the scenery stunning and dramatic. The only hitch was the mile long uphill road walk to a campground above Lynmouth. Of course when I arrived at the campground next to a river I noticed what appears to be a forest trail back down. Anyway, there’s a pub right next to the campground that specializes in Thai food. My tent is pitched and the Ale is good.

Clovelly To Chivenor

I left Clovelly Sunday morning feeling well rested, well fed and ready to go. The skies cleared early and the weather turned perfect as I followed a forested ridgeline to open hills lining the shore. The hills gave way to beach as I passed through the touristy resort town of Westward Ho! From Westward I passed through dunes before reaching the colorfully painted row houses of Appledore. In Appledore I picked up a few supplies and headed on another mile to a farm campsite.

Knapp farm turned out to be an outdoor education center of sorts. I knew where the farm was but had a little bit of trouble accessing the property while navigating farmers field, sheep, and fence. One of the instructors who appeared to be in his mid 20’s saw me from afar and I got his attention by waving. I asked about camping and he said there was a place I could camp. He then pointed to where I could get over the fence. From there I followed him over a gate and he walked me through the property.

The property consists of a very large old house set up like a hostel to house groups. There was also a ropes course some other buildings and mobile homes for staff. As he walked me to where I could camp I asked what the charge would be. He wasn’t sure and informed me that the boss man wouldn’t be back until late. I told him I’d be leaving around 8. He laughed and said I’d be gone by time anyone came around but to check with the office before I left.

The area where I camped was really quite beautiful underneath some very large old trees next to a sloping meadow. The field just above me was littered with permanently set caravans of varying age and condition. Only a few of the caravans appeared to be currently used. The campground facilities were basic and not well maintained. It kind of seemed like a partially functioning unadvertised sort of a campground. Since there were no groups on property and things were very quite I found facilities easily available at the house for a shower, toilet, and water.

As I’ve been walking the Coast Path I’ve often thought what a wonderful tick habitat I’m passing through. Especially in early summer. Ticks don’t seem to be particularly common in England but as I showered I found two of them. I was happy to catch them before they dug in as they were the small type that can carry lymes disease.

Although my campsite was quite nice at the farm I slept horribly due to super noisy birds in the wonderful large old trees. I’m not sure what they were. I left the farm a little after 8 am and passed by the office to see no one there. I really wouldn’t have minded paying but I don’t really think it made much difference. I took it as a gift and made my way back over the gate, over the fence, past the sheep, and back to the Coast Path.

At Bideford the Coast Path picks up on a paved rail trail that I followed all day under what would turn out to be perfect weather. Lots of sun, not too hot, and barely any wind. I also met two older ladies that have been doing sections of the Coast Path for ten years and they were just starting their final section to the end at Minehead. They are packing light and staying at B&B’s in the villages along the way. They plan to finish on Saturday as I intend to so I will likely be seeing them off and on all week.

I completed today’s walk about a mile short of Braunton in a place called Chivenor. Logistically it works out perfectly for me and after 16 or so miles I was ready to stop as my left Achilles is giving me trouble. With today's walk passing through populated areas my choices for camping are a little limited.

Chivenor Caravan Park is not a particularly pretty place but it’s ok. It’s a bit run down. The facilities are adequate but not great. It’s more like a residential trailer/caravan park that poses as an overpriced holiday campground. I imagine during busy times they get business but during times like these it’s the odd bird like myself. The upside is that the woman manager, a little rough around the edges, couldn’t be nicer and more accommodating. Since the campground is located right next to a busy A road I asked if she might be able to make an exception and allow me to pitch one night in a more desirable unofficial spot. It would be much quieter. No problem.

As it turns out the campground really isn’t so bad. I got dinner from the gas station across the street and the showers have hot water. Also, the drinking water tastes good. With no screaming birds I'll likely sleep great.

No Need To Rush - Life On The Skids

Since I’m not traveling on a tight schedule I planned to leave myself open to staying an extra day anywhere along the Coast Path if I felt like it. With the charm of Clovelly and very affordable super comfortable accommodation I decided to stay put and not hike today. Plus, the Achilles tendon on my left foot has flared up a bit and the weather is gray and windy.

The owners of the B&B in Clovelly are named Jane and Derek. Only a vacancy plaque above the entrance door marks their home as a B&B. There’s no other sign, website, or anything like that. I don’t even think the Bed and Breakfast has a specific name. I was the only guest last night. From what I understand they don’t really want to be too overburdened with too much business. This morning Jane fixed me a huge breakfast, as much as I wanted, and then some. I talked with both of them for awhile over breakfast and feel like I’m visiting relatives or friends.

After breakfast I went for a short walk up to a church that dates back 800 years and roamed around the village area. I discovered that the village was originally settled sometime during the 1200’s. I also watched some guys load up wood railed sleigh like skids at the top of the village. Sliding them up and down is the only regular way to get supplies and such to the businesses and residences. They seem to slide well on the old cobbles. The smaller skids appear to work fine for one person but the larger skids require two people.

From what I can tell I should be able to reach Minehead at the end of the Southwest Coast Path in a week pretty easily, however, I’m enjoying the journey. No need to rush the destination.

Clovelly, On The SW Coast Path

The bad weather never materialized overnight at Hartland Quay. Just a little bit of light rain. After finishing a full English breakfast it only made sense to continue on as the clouds were light with sun and blue sky showing through. It seemed kind of silly to be so cautious about the English weather as I’ve hiked through plenty of wind and rain on past walks. However, the weather service had issued an alert for potentially severe weather and locals were talking about it. To me it looked like a nice day to hike.

As it turned out it was a very nice day to hike. The skies were a little variable and overcast but not bad. The air was relatively warm and humid but not what I’d consider hot. I made good time enjoying the views off to my left as I rounded Hartland point and followed rolling ridgeline with cliffs to one side and farmland to the other before entering forest as I neared the old fishing village of Clovelly. I covered the planned 11 miles quickly and easily.

Clovelly is probably one of the most interesting old fishing villages I have ever visited in England. The Coast Path passes the top of the village at a large parking area. The village itself is constructed on a steep hillside with one main cobblestone street dropping down past shops and residences to a harbor with a hotel pub at the bottom. Cars are not allowed nor do I think it would even be possible to drive up and down the cobbles. I did notice a proper side road that appears to access the harbor some kind of back way.

Clovelly caught my interest right away and I definitely wanted to stay in the village for the night. I noticed a hotel near the top of that was advertising a good rate with vacancies. I wandered down a little further and checked with a couple of B&B’s which can be a good value in England. Cornwall and Devon tend to be expensive but I was able to find a very nice room with a view for 30 pounds. Of course a full English breakfast is included. Since the only way to accommodation is by walking up and down the steep cobbles I think it keeps demand and price within reason.

The older couple who owns and runs the B&B are extremely nice. The husband was working on their impressive Garden when I arrived. He had also just repaired the hot water so asked if I could wait an hour or so before washing up. I dropped my pack and headed down to the harbor where I found a smoked mackerel sandwich and tried to compete with German tourists for a pint at the pub but lost. The pub was just too busy and the Germans kept cutting in front of me so left and went up to the pub at the top of the village where a couple of guys were wheeling fresh ale down the cobbles on a kart.

By 3 pm all of the tourists were gone and the village is now very quiet. The owners of the B&B say the building is over 600 years old but the village is older. It’s now raining but it just looks like typical English rain to me. Typical English weather is on the forecast.