New Zealand - Some Closing Thoughts

When I first visited New Zealand in 1989 lamb and wool dominated the economy, there were a lot fewer cars, tourism was established but low key, and I had yet to hear the word, “Internet”. I hitch hiked everywhere which took a fair amount of patience at times but never had difficulty finding a place to stay the night. I never made a single reservation for anything except my flight out of the country. The people of New Zealand were refreshingly naïve like it was still the 1950’s and a foreign tourist remained somewhat novel. Sure, you would see other people at popular destinations but nothing was ever really crowded. New Zealand was known but not really discovered, yet.

Today the natural beauty remains unchanged as the country is full of outstanding beaches, mountains and countryside. Low crime and the friendly nature of local people add to the desirability of traveling the country. For those new to foreign travel it’s a great place to start. Infrastructure for the traveler is well established, it’s easy to get around and New Zealand is probably one of the safest places in the world to roam about. The one thing it does lack is the exotic factor. Unless you are really interested in seeking out indigenous Maori culture there’s not really anything exotic about New Zealand. It’s mostly all about the natural beauty.

If you want to seek out a quiet corner or set out on less popular hike it is possible to get away from other travelers but for the most part the tourist track is quite crowded. There are loads of young people in their 20’s traveling around mixing sporadic employment with a yearlong work visa. There are also plenty of tour buses full of older folks. Unless you are fine with carrying a small tent it’s often necessary to book ahead even if it’s a dorm bed in a hostel. The most popular hiking trails are regulated and require advance reservations. It’s almost impossible not to go through a town of any size without seeing a person wearing a backpack.

New Zealand has turned into backpacker mania. For me it’s a bit too much and detracts from any feeling of real adventure. It's exceedingly popular with young Germans. Germans are everywhere. There are also a lot of French. The majority of tourists come from Europe, China, and Japan. The ski towns of the South Island are popular with Argentinians. There are a few Americans here and there but very few American backpackers. Most Americans are older and with a tour group. None are traveling more than 2 or 3 weeks while folks from other countries are gone for months if not a year or more. Canadians are more adventurous than people from the states and I met them on a regular basis. Canadians are easy to notice with their pack because almost all have a Canadian flag patch sewn on and despise being mistaken for an American.

This all goes without saying that I chose to travel during the high season. Right now mid-March is comparable to mid-October in the northern hemisphere so things should slow down heading into the shoulder season before the ski slopes open. I greatly enjoyed the natural beauty, especially in the fiordlands on the Milford Track. However, I tired of the backpacker scene which I usually found myself a part of because that’s where are all the budget options are. New Zealand is not a cheap country to travel but thanks to a strong U.S. dollar I was able to keep it reasonable but I still had to stick with a backpacker approach.
 
As far as the people go I sort of have mixed feeling about New Zelanders, aka, Kiwis. On the surface they are as nice and friendly as can be. At times there are exceedingly helpful and usually very welcoming, however, beneath it all, I often got the sense that you never know for sure what a Kiwi is really thinking. I’m more comfortable with someone being a little brash and blunt than polite and passive. I prefer to know where I stand with someone. I once heard said that Kiwis are soft on the outside and hard in the middle. Sometimes I got that impression but of course not with everyone. Regardless, Kiwis are a really good people. As a whole I’d say they are hearty and independent. If the rest of the world blows itself up there is no doubt in my mind that Kiwis will have no problem taking care of themselves.

Overall New Zealand is a very healthy place. Clean air, clean food, clean water, and a culture of conservation prevail across the nation. People seem to be very aware of issues concerning environmental impact etc.

As I’ve stated numerous times, in previous posts, the last two months have been a little touch and go due to Meniere’s/vertigo. Ultimately this trip will likely go down in the books as Ok. Not great but not bad. Just Ok. With the ease of a flying direct out of Houston and the possibility of attaining another super cheap ticket on Air New Zealand I will likely return sooner than later. The next time around I might try a different time of year and focus on a smaller region. We’ll see.

Nelson - Center of New Zealand - Done

I slept well the second night in Franz Josef and the 10 ½ hour bus ride to Nelson was fine. There were a couple of moments I felt kind of weird but I was ok. For most of the way I had a front seat with a good view which helped eliminate the chance of developing vertigo on the winding sections of road. The driver made a few stops which included the Punakaiki pancake rocks with enough time to do a 20 minute walk to see them. The weather was crappy and raining all day. I got pretty wet checking out the rocks set along sea cliffs but it was worth it. It was a nice bonus.

I arrived at my accommodation around 8:30 pm. No more tent, backpacker hostels, or mountain huts. The place I’m checked into is a solid built and well maintained Victorian home. It’s quite large. The bottom level hosts a dentist office and the top is a nine room guest house. The rooms are very nice, simple but up scale. None of the rooms are ensuite but there are 2 ½ large shared bathrooms, a common space, shared kitchen and a grand view with balcony overlooking the town of Nelson. It’s costing me around $140 USD for three nights as I was able to use some hotel points to cover nearly all of the cost for the first night. It’s quiet, very comfortable and I slept good. I expect I’ll even sleep better the next two days which can really make a difference for the long trip home.

Getting a good night’s sleep is hit and miss on the road and for whatever reason this trip to New Zealand has been the worst for me and sleep. I usually got enough to feel ok the next day but rarely did I feel like I really got a good night’s rest. Part of it was to do with my Meniere’s and vertigo while other times it was noise from other guests in a hostel, campground, or hut. Why people think you can’t close a door without slamming it is something I will never understand. Or, why someone has to rustle through their crap and stomp around at odd hours with no regard for people who are sleeping is inexcusable and plain inconsiderate. Other times it was simply Mother Nature with wind or rain banging against my tent. Yes, earplugs help to a degree but I stopped using them because I actually think they messed with my inner ear pressure. I almost always had vertigo in the morning after using them.

This morning I could have had a free car. An American staying at the guest house bought a cheap old Mazda because being under the age of 25 it was cost prohibitive to rent one. He only paid $800 USD and it served him well for a three week tour. In New Zealand you can’t sue and insurance is not compulsory. For about 10 bucks and five minutes the car registration could have been changed to my name. Well, I’m leaving on Saturday so of course I passed but I suggested he run it by a dealer and get whatever he could for it. He seemed kind of well off and really didn’t care about the money. He just wanted to make someone happy. I then suggested he drop by a backpacker hostel. Surely some 20 year kid, probably a German, would be crazy happy to get it. He liked my suggestion.

Nelson is a large town or maybe even a small city. It sits next to a bay at the top of the South Island. Just above town, on a hill, is a monument built to mark the geographical center of New Zealand. I began my day with a short run to the bay and back. I then went on a little hike up to the geographical center and wandered along a ridge before heading down to make a loop. Around lunchtime I meandered into town and that’s when it hit me. I’m done. I’ve got my fill. My cup is full. It’s a wrap. I returned to the guest house to enjoy the view from the common room. In two days I’ll fly home. Nelson to Auckland then Auckland direct to Houston. I'm happy to do nothing and rest until I leave. Done.

Overall my time in New Zealand has been good. Due to Meniere’s it’s been up and down, in and out, but I’ve still enjoyed some notable high points. Two months has flown by as I expected it would. I am happy to have made the most of my time despite having to deal with unpredictable vertigo which created a mild background anxiety. In the end I think I’ve learned how to manage it while traveling and if anything I’ve gained some confidence on how to travel with Meniere’s. I’m not sure how travel will fit into my immediate future but we shall see.

Upon returning home I will definitely be focusing on trying to solve the mystery of the root cause of my Meniere’s. Doctors are either too specialized or too general when it comes to sorting out the real culprit of most malady’s therefore I’ll need to take the bull by the horns with this one. So far I’ve determined caffeine and alcohol are definitely not good for me. Low salt is recommended but I actually think too low salt is just as bad as too much. It seems like a reasonable amount of salt, not too high, not too low, works best for me. I feel that it’s all about maintaining a proper homeostasis. As we age our bodies change and a proper homeostasis may be a little harder to balance given a certain circumstance. For example the two drinks that felt like nothing in your 20’s might give you a mild hangover in your 60’s. Also, you never really know what the coding of your genetic DNA makeup may have in store for you in the future. For me I believe it’s about finding the right balance. I need to be especially careful of drifting too far into any extreme.

Tomorrow I’ll likely go on a walk but that will probably be about it. I’ll also write a post with some opinions about New Zealand and traveling the country. Mostly though, I’ll be taking it easy..

(The top photo is of the Monument marking the geographical center. The bottom photos are of Punakaiki Rocks and my accommodation in Nelson.)

Franz Josef - Odd Smells

I didn’t sleep much the night after hiking Roy’s peak. The wasp sting that I really didn’t think much of at first burned, itched like crazy, and swelled up around my ankle and lower leg overnight. The morning was nice though as I left to hop a bus to Franz Josef.

The bus ride was longer that it needed to be as it worked in a couple of unnecessary stops that are obviously designed to get passengers to spend money at a café, tourist shop, or even a fruit stand.

Most everyone on the bus was headed to Franz Josef which is a village on the West Coast that sits near the base of a glacier by the same name. The town’s economy is almost entirely based on tourism. The setting is nice amidst lush green temperate rainforest. The Tasman Sea is nearby but you can’t see it from the village. Hotels, café, a few shops, and several tour operators offering helicopter sightseeing trips etc. line a couple of streets.

Upon arrival about half of the bus headed over to an enclave of budget backpacker accommodations. I had a reservation at Chateau Franz for two nights and checked into a single room. The room was located in a cabin like structure called the “Ski Lodge” along with one other single room, a shared living room and shared bathroom. It had character but it was also sort of dark and had a strong musty moldy smell. The room was old and worn but clean.

The Tudor style Chateau Franz looks as if it were originally built in the 1970’s with a few added additions through the years. The place is decorated in a themed fashion with old stuff tacked up for atmosphere but from what I could tell maintenance doesn't appear to be the highest of priorities.

When I checked in there was a discrepancy with the quoted price and the woman checking me in was not the one I made the reservation with. It was only a three dollar difference but the receptionist was making it an issue and she stated she would only honor one night at the price I was originally quoted. I told her I would pay for one night then the other night the next day. That was before I checked out the room. The problem with booking ahead is that at the very least they’ve got you for one night.

Anyway, with swollen lower leg, a bus ride that felt kind of long, smelly room, and deteriorating weather made me wish I hadn’t stopped in Franz Joseph. I debated changing my bus reservation to Nelson for the following day but wasn’t feeling up to back to back long bus rides. I went for a walk.

My leg was bothering me so I went to tourist information and inquired with the young girl working the desk what she knew about New Zealand wasp bites. “Yeah, my friend stepped on a wasp and her whole foot swelled up for days”. “Yes, it itches. You could see a nurse but I don’t think she would really do anything. It’s best to just tough it out”. So, with that issue resolved I returned to the Chateau to cancel my second night. Not a problem. I then went across the street and booked a night at a much nicer hostel named “The Montrose” with a super nice receptionist.

Ironically I slept quite well in the musty accommodation at Chateau Franz. My neighbor in the other room was an Australian, not much older than me, who was motorcycle touring with his mates. He was a really nice guy and spoke in a colorful fashion that Aussie’s tend to be known for. “This place isn’t too flash mate”. He also commented on the smell. There’s a fine line between character and dump. The Chateau Franz has character but really it’s a dump in need of a bulldozer before too long.

Having felt out of sorts the previous day I began the morning with a 45 minute run touring the area. It hadn’t started raining yet so the run went well and I felt good. After that I gathered my things and stored them with the receptionist at the hostel across the street and went for a three hour hike in the rain to catch a glimpse of the foot of Franz Joseph Glacier. Despite rain I quite enjoyed the walk. However, there wasn’t much to see comparatively speaking.

I was able to check into the Montrose hostel at 2 pm. The room was remarkably better and at about the same price, however, it had just been remodeled and redone. Normally that would be great but it had a super strong chemical like smell. I promise you I was not being oversensitive or anything like that. I accepted the room because it was so nice and figured I’d try airing it out. Well, airing it out didn’t help and the smell was actually making me dizzy.

I addressed the issue with the Argentinian manager who turned out to be Mr. customer service extraordinaire. He commented that the smell reminded him of a new pair of tennis shoes. But it was strong. He said he would see what he could do. About 15 minutes later he gave me the option of moving into different room in another building. He offered a small partial refund because the room wasn’t as nice. For me it was perfect. With the rain hammering down I spent the rest of the day relaxing in a room that smelled normal.

I later complimented the manager on how good his customer service skills are and how good the staff is. Tomorrow it’s a 10 ½ hour bus ride to Nelson, my final stop in New Zealand before flying back to Texas.

Roy's Peak - Atmospheric Views

Out the door around 8 Am. I grabbed a cinnamon roll from a local bakery and walked along Lake Wanaka. The skies were cloudy but temperature comfortable. Somehow a wasp, or what we call a Yellow Jacket back in the states, got caught between my sock and the tongue of my boot. It stung the heck out of me but I paid little attention and kept on walking. After a few miles I cut left across a farmer’s field to access the road near Roy’s Peak trailhead.

From the trailhead it was a steady uphill climb on an old 4wd road as it switch backed up steep grassy mountainside good for grazing sheep. The clouds blew in a little more as the sky was totally overcast. The summit was shrouded in fog but there wasn’t much wind. I continued climbing and felt really good. Like my old self, strong, steady and clear. It began to rain lightly.

The old road narrowed in spots and began to look a little more like a trail. Higher up the path crossed the ridge West of the summit to avoid a rough cliffy section to sneak up the back. I continued into cloud fog and up to the summit hosting a radio tower. It took me less than 2 hours of steady hiking to reach the peak from the trailhead. The rain stopped.

The top wasn’t particularly hospitable so I didn’t hang around long. There wasn’t much to see. I descended quickly below the cloud to access the view and allowed myself plenty of time to take it in and collect photos. I remarked to myself that it was an atmospheric day for scenery with mixed shades of light. About halfway down the clouds began to dissipate. I passed many hikers going up who had opted for a late start. By time I reached bottom the mountain was clear and blue sky was showing in patches.

I hiked Mt Roy in 1989 and wanted to do it again on this trip. In ’89 I don’t recall seeing another hiker anywhere on the mountain, just a farmer and some sheep. Now it seems to be quite popular, especially with young Germans.

On the bus ride from Te Anau to Queenstown I sat next to a German man in his mid 50’s. He was especially talkative for a German man his age and I suspected it was because he was traveling alone. I think he was a little lonely. I wasn’t much in the mood for conversation but we chatted awhile. I commented on the number of young Germans traveling New Zealand. He explained how their culture has changed and that kids right out of high school are now encouraged to take a gap year. Many are encouraged to travel and see the world before they pursue their occupational interest. New Zealand is safe, easy, and loaded with great things to do. It’s especially safe for young women. Also, the way things work and function is not much different from European and American culture. It suits Germans well.

I retraced my steps along the lakeshore back to Wanaka to make it approximately 15 or 16 miles for a 7 hour out and back hike. On the town waterfront I ordered a lamb kebab from a Turkish takeaway shop and headed home, to the hostel. It was nice to just feel like my old self, steady, strong and clear.

Tomorrow I’ll hop a bus to Franz Joseph which is known for a cool Glacier. I plan to get in a hike, soak up the scenery, and relax. After Franz Joseph I’ll be heading to Nelson for a few days then back to Texas.

Wanaka

After the Milford Track I spent one night in Te Anau then caught a late morning bus to Queenstown. Queenstown is an internationally known destination for outdoor activities, skiing, and adrenalin sports such as bungy jumping and skydiving. The town, if not small city, sits next to a large lake with mountains all around. The setting is quite beautiful, however, its trendy popularity attracts loads of tourists which creates a not so relaxed vibe. Aside of the average Joe arriving alone or via packaged tour, Queenstown is a magnet for young college aged kids looking for a party after the adrenalin rush of jumping off a bridge connected to a large rubber band, etc. It’s a party town.

I arrived mid-afternoon and checked into Flaming Kiwi Backpackers for a budget single. It was a good thing I booked ahead as town was packed. I spent the remainder of the afternoon checking out the area and walking around a park. I stood in line for nearly half an hour to get a Fergburger which is a local rave. The meat patty was very good but New Zealand burgers are skimpy with cheese, loaded with garlic mayonnaise and full of some kind of relish. The taste is quite different from an American burger but good nonetheless. The big upside is that often times the beef is grass fed and local.

I enjoyed an afternoon wandering around Queenstown, especially since the weather was so good, but I don’t much care for the feel of the place. At the hostel I felt like the odd man out. I don’t think many or any of the people staying there were over 25. It was Friday night and a lot of people were drinking. Fortunately, the hostel was well managed and at 10:30 all of the common areas were cleared by management which meant the drinkers went out for the rest of the night. My room was tucked in the back so it was pretty quiet, however, I could hear drunk kids all night long, in the distance, as they a passed along a nearby street. One night in Queenstown was enough.

This morning, Saturday, I caught an early bus to Wanaka. When I first visited Wanaka in 1989 it was a sleepy idyllic town with everything to offer for someone seeking an outdoor lifestyle. It was still undiscovered. Oh well, now, today, it’s definitely been discovered.

Wanaka like Queenstown sits next to a lake surrounded by mountains. It’s much more built up than the last time I was here and now attracts loads of tourists. Fortunately, it’s still pretty laid back. I consider Wanaka to be a mature version of Queenstown minus trendy hype, adrenalin sports, and partying twenty somethings. It has a nice feel.

Tonight I am checked into a budget single at Holly’s backpackers. I feel quite comfortable and fit in with the company of a broad age range of guests. Today I went on a hike up small peak and walked all over town. After that I was motivated to go for a short run so I did. I’m in Wanaka for two nights so tomorrow I plan to get in a good hike weather permitting.

Milford Track

It was cloudy and kind of cold on the boat ride up Lake Te Anau to Glade Wharf. The wharf sits in a cove at the end of the long lake tucked in with steep mountains making any other form of access very difficult. Glade Wharf marks the beginning of the world famous Milford Track that’s touted as being the finest walk in the world.

The Milford Track stretches a little over 33 miles starting in the Clinton River Valley. It leads up and over Mackinnon Pass and down the Arthur River Valley to Sandfly Point. The track is heavily restricted to 40 independent and 50 guided hikers a day. The independent and guided walkers stay at different huts. Start times and huts are staggered so the independent and guided do not mix. With the independent hikers such as myself staying a little beyond the guided group it’s possible to walk all day without seeing anyone else on the trail. The guided groups start at a set time. Independent hikers do as they wish.

The first day is short and easy. About three miles to Clinton hut. The walk is very nice and passes through thick vibrant green temperate rain forest. Long stringy moss coats trees and ferns. Plants carpet the ground. The first hut is also the first time you really get to meet the other 40 strangers doing the same thing. I immediately hit it off with a couple of women from California who are not only hikers but runners. There was group of Israelis, Chinese, a couple of French, a Canadian, two stylish Korean Women from Gangnam in Seoul and a of course New Zealanders aka Kiwis of the humankind. I also met a young woman from the states who has been living in Australia since her teens. All in all a good group and diverse as expected.

From the Clinton hut the trail climbs gradually upward and the valley narrows. The mountains become very steep and rise almost vertically from the valley floor. The walking is pleasant and becomes more varied and increasingly scenic.

According to the weather forecast I wasn’t expecting things to be too good but conditions on day 2 turned out to be excellent. It was sunny, the temperature was perfect, and there was little if any wind. I took lots of photos and covered the 10 miles or so up to Mintaro Hut with ease.

At Mintaro I stopped, ate lunch, and figured I’d just relax the rest of the day talking to other hikers, however, with the weather so nice it seemed like a good idea to head up Mackinnon Pass which is really the crown jewel of the hike. As I snacked some more, two of the Israeli hikers said they had been reading the Lonely Planet guide and it was advisable to day hike up to Makinnon Pass if the weather is good upon reaching Mintaro. It didn’t take much reasoning to come to that conclusion. One of the Israeli’s commented. “It's the best way”.

Ten minutes later the three of us were headed up the trail. The weather continued with its fabulous display of blue sky and occasional passing cloud. Without packs the hike up felt easy. We met a Japanese man coming down who left earlier to make the pass a day hike as well. It only took us an hour to cover a little over two miles to reach the top.

The views were astounding, 360 degrees, all the way around. Mount Balloon with a pointy top sits at the thrown while Mt Elliot and Mt Wilmur host a hanging glacier. The peaks and valleys are extremely steep to vertical. A large monument built in the style of a rock cairn topped with a crucifix marks the pass. It's a memorial for the explorer by the name of Mackinnon who first discovered the region.

With comfortable temperatures and little wind we spent about half hour taking photos and enjoying the views. We had no idea what the weather might be like the following day so we were really happy to have made the decision to hike the pass when we did.

The night was clear and full of stars but colder. The fine weather continued through the morning as everyone headed up the pass with an early start. Although conditions atop were good for a view it was cold, kind of windy, and the morning light was not good for photos. Still, not bad, but not as good as the previous afternoon.

From the top of the pass the trail traverses east to avoid a band of cliffs before descending. The descent was exceeding scenic but a little rugged which made for slower going with a frequent pause to take in the view. At one point the trail goes down a series of steps that are built along a long narrow stream that forms a series of waterfalls and grottos. As if that isn’t enough upon arrival at the valley bottom there’s a side trail that only takes thirty to forty five minutes to reach New Zealand’s highest waterfall, Sutherland Falls. I dopped my pack at a day shelter and took the side trip.

Dumpling Hut was home for night three and the Ranger on sight informed us that a strong storm was on the way. So far, aside of having a difficult time getting a good nights rest at the huts the only annoyance were sandflies. In America we call them black flies. They are small and have a big bite. Their bite emits an anticoagulant that causes a small pool of blood to rise to the skin for feeding. The black flies are much worse in Northeast America so relatively speaking the sandflies in New Zealand are quite manageable and more of an annoyance issue than anything.

Well, on the morning of the 4th day a severe storm blew in around 4 or 5 am and we were told by the ranger not to go anywhere for the time being. Heavy rain, thunder and lightning introduced an enormous amount of rain in a very short period of time. There was talk of us getting flooded in and a possible helicopter evacuation to avoid a section prone to flooding. As the storm raged the walls of the valley turned into walls of waterfalls. The storm blew over Mackinnon pass with gusts up to 135 Km an hour. The front was moving fast. The ranger kept us informed and none of us were too eager to get going. Around 10 am the storm began to ease. Around 10:30 the skies started to show some clearing. The walls of the valley became a spectacular sight with too many waterfalls to mention. Most all were flowing near or full capacity. At 11:15 the ranger received a report that the storm had fully passed and no more rain was expected. We were warned of one section with possibly high water and the ranger said he would run ahead to guide us safely. Had the storm kept raging much longer I think it would have been a real issue. Ironically, it just made things more beautiful.

With waterfalls everywhere I was really happy to walk but even more so just to get the finish the trail properly. There was one flooded section that with the ranger’s advice and direction sent us through knee deep water but nothing really dangerous. The track finishes at Sandfly point which was insanely full of sandflies. By far the worst I’ve seen in New Zealand. I was happy to get on the first boat necessary to cross a body of water to Milford Sound and a bus back to Te Anau.

The Milford Track was definitely a bright spot to my travels in New Zealand considering my issues with Meniere's. Vertigo did rear its uninvited presence a couple of times. The first time was on day two. It was very mild and didn’t last long. I was actually able to walk though it with the aid of my hiking sticks. The second occasion was on the third night as I lay down to sleep. I experienced a fairly intense episode of the spins for a couple of hours as I lay in bed. I wondered if it had something to do with the approaching low of a strong storm.

All things considered I’d say things went about as good or better than expected on the walk, especially considering the weather report prior to leaving. I am really happy that I got an opportunity to hike the Milford Track. It’s a nice little feather in the hat. I was lucky to get a reservation when I just happened to check online as a party of two canceled. On average you have to book a year ahead. When cancellations do pop up they are usually taken within 30 minutes. The Fiordlands of the South Island of New Zealand have to be one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Milford Track - Photo Set

Te Anau

After Stewart Island I parted ways with Will who proved to be an easy person to travel with. He was always upbeat, easy going, and up for a good laugh. Will headed down to Christchurch to secure a visa for China to meet up with a potential love interest. I told Will I always assumed I’d meet a woman traveling and doing the things I love to do. His response was that I needed to stop staying at backpacker hostels and start staying at places people my age stay at. Good point.

When Will dropped me off at Queens park in Invercargill we were listening to a CD that had been left in the car he bought. It was an Indian Bollywood soundtrack in Hindi. Hindi sometimes sounds like English in an odd way that translates into words with a completely different meaning. We were certain a particular chorus was, “Pet the bunny”, with sitars, tablas and a host of other instruments going off in the background. Laughter, smiles, and handshake then Will drove off. I’m sure we will meet up again in the states at some point in time if he doesn’t get too distracted by China.

I am now in Te Anau and arrived late Thursday afternoon. The past two mornings I’ve gone for nice runs along the lake shore. Yesterday was a rain day so I spent most of my time in a budget single room at Lakeview campground. At approximately $21 USD it really is a bargain. The rooms are nothing special but clean and reasonably quiet with showers and toilet down the hall. There’s also a common area with community kitchen. I spent the day booking out my remaining time in New Zealand. I only have two weeks left. I figured I kind of need a plan to catch my plane home in due time.

So, I know where I’ll be and pretty much what I’m doing for the next two weeks. I don’t recall ever being so organized while traveling. Tomorrow I leave for 3 nights on the Milford track where I’ll stay in huts. From there it’s back to Te Anau for a night then Queenstown, Wanaka, Franz Josef, and Nelson. I’ll fly home from Nelson instead of having to get all the way back up to Auckland. I scored a ticket from Nelson to Auckland on Air New Zealand for $63 USD.

After the Milford track I will no longer be staying in a tent, hut or hostel dorm. It will be all budget singles then on out. Usually a budget single comes out to around $40 to $50 USD. My last three nights will be in a little better accommodation where I used hotel points to get 3 nights for the price of 2 at a B&B type place specifically for solo travelers. It’s looks kind of posh but the price isn’t. It has great reviews. I’m sure travelers my age stay there.

As far as Vertigo goes I’ve been free of it for around two weeks but it presented itself again this afternoon for about an hour. It came on strong for a couple of minutes and quickly eased to a mild form. I napped it off. It didn’t really surprise me as my right ear has been feeling full. It’s an odd feeling that I’ve come to associate with being more at risk for an episode of vertigo. Hopefully it won’t be much of an issue here on out. I really don’t have to think much anymore. Everything is booked. I have my itinerary written on a small piece of paper with an ink pen.

All in all I think I’ve been making the most of my time in New Zealand. Meniere’s and vertigo have definitely put a damper on the whole experience but Cest la Vie, such is life and life is a constant learning experience. When I return home I’ll be focusing on trying to find the root cause of my malady. Doctors seem to be fairly poor at determining the root cause of most ailments. They like to prescribe drugs with side effect to manage symptoms. Drugs often lead to other issues. I’ve been managing my Meniere’s and vertigo drug free. Research tells me I’ve likely had it for a while and am in the middle stages of progression. Best case scenario is that it burns itself out and I’m left with substantial hearing loss and damage in one ear but a brain that has adjusted remarkably to compensate for balance. Actually, when not experiencing an episode of vertigo my balance is really good.

Tomorrow I’ll find myself in a group of 40 independent hikers embarking on an internationally famous hike, The Milford Track. It’s a 30+ mile point to point journey with both trailheads only accessible my boat. In reality it could be done in a couple of days by a strong walker but it’s heavily managed and regulated for use so you have to follow a 3 night 4 day itinerary. Only 40 people a day are allowed access and you must stay in the huts. The first day is more about a bus and a boat to the start with a very short hike to a hut.

The weather forecast does not look very good but the day I’m supposed to cross over a high pass looks ok aside of gale force winds. Not to worry. I won’t be alone and each hut has a warden with the latest weather info etc.

It seems fitting that I’m doing the Milford Track at this point in my life. I first read about it God knows how long ago and passed on it during my 1989 trip because I was pinching pennies like a 24 year old should. I now find myself at a crossroads due to a circumstance that I do not have total control over, at least not yet. I’ve been forced to do things differently than I’d like to and find myself coasting into the uncertainty of transition. The strange thing about an episode of vertigo, with its unannounced disorienting nature, is the flow of clarity that follows afterwards. It’s probably a combination of adrenalin, endorphins and relief. Today as I was walking by the lake, leveling out post vertigo, I started to think it’s probably time I put a wrap on World Traveler and Thinker as a persona. I have no intention to stop traveling but I can’t really say I’m getting what I once did from it.

Stewart Island, New Zealand

A bumpy boat ride across a bay led to the river of Freshwater that snaked it’s way into the interior of Stewart Island. The boat banked a hard left, right, then left again. The dark water calmed as the river narrowed and we got off at a dock near a hut. With wind roaring and more rain on the way there was no thought of camping with a hut as an option. Will, myself, and a young Swiss guy by the name of Raphael, who also rode in with boat, shared the shelter for the night.

In the morning we joined forces to tramp through mud and up wet temperate rainforest hillside to the summit of aptly named “Rocky Mountain” with granite rocks positioned about. The wind was cold and fierce on top so we only stuck around long enough to take a few photos of the spectacular 360 degree view. A three hour roundtrip returned us to the hut at Freshwater.

We didn’t spend much time at Freshwater as we grabbed our packs for a four hour hike to Mason Bay. The path took us through more mud and wetlands. The path was dry at times atop what remained of an old road be constructed by crazy sheep farmers in the 1930’s.

The hut at Mason bay was nice but the bunk room stank. Nonetheless, it beat camping in rain, wind and cold. It made for a nice home for two nights. Mason Bay beach, Big Sand Hill, and walks about looking for Kiwis filled the time.

Raphael at 20 had already hiked the length of New Zealand minus a few road walks along a new hiking route that’s rapidly gaining international popularity. I thought of doing a stretch of it for most if not all of time in New Zealand but Meniere’s and lack of drive kept me from it. Raphael, although peculiar in his almost mechanical sounding English, is obviously smart and confident. He’s already banked a nice chunk of money in the field of science under a skill gained in an internship within a specialized field. He’s on the road for a year with most of his time being spent in New Zealand hiking and camping.

After two nights at Mason Bay Will and I returned to the Freshwater hut for one more night to be ready for pickup by boat the following morning. Raphael continued on through mud to walk back into town. On the way back to Freshwater we finally spotted a Kiwi on the lawn of the Ranger’s cabin. Kiwis, of the bird type, are very difficult to see. Most are nocturnal but one vairety does come out during daylight hours. Stewart Island provides the best chance of catching a glimpse but even then only 30% of visitors are lucky enough to spot one.

At Freshwater we had the company of a couple we had also stayed with at the Mason Bay Hut. The wife was an MD General Practitioner and the husband was someone who seemed to think a lot of himself. He didn’t think my register comment about hunting Kiwis, of the bird variety, and wishing I’d brought more bullets was very funny. Will thought it was hilarious. Not just my comment which was blatantly intended for humor but the husband’s reaction.

When two Argentinians showed up at the hut at 9pm with three more on the way I took advantage of my knowledge of cultural differences and pitched my tent outside. Argentinians are night people who like to eat dinner around 10 or 11. They were surprised to find people were already sleeping at 9 pm.
 
In the morning it was a total of nine hikers catching the boat out. It’s a fairly narrow window that allows for a small boat to travel up Freshwater due to tides. Conditions were calm with little wind. We spent the afternoon in the main village of Oban and caught the afternoon ferry back to the South Island and the old sleepy port town of Bluff. The float back to Bluff was nothing like the previous trip to Stewart Island. The seas were much calmer, almost boring. Coffee was free and beer was cheap but I had neither. I’m still keeping the vertigo at bay.