October 26, 2008

Current Sate Of The Union - Traveler Thinker Perspective



Well, I'm settling back into my life here in Houston. My body has readjusted to central daylight time and I've caught up on some much needed sleep. Things are good. Can't complain at all. Upon my return I quickly realized that a lot has happened while I was gone. During the 6 weeks I was in Spain I didn't follow any news and it was wonderful...

Currently the USA, as well as the rest of the world, is in the midst of a a financial crisis. However, oddly enough, the American dollar is gaining strength and the price of oil is plummeting which is good for travel !........In all seriousness though, with the presidential election coming up tensions are very high and the country is passionately divided. It's kind of a crazy time right now. Having just walked the Camino I feel like I've stepped into a riot without any kind of emotional involvement. What I see is a stock market fueled by neurosis, excessive greed, and a gambling attitude. Gone are the solid principles of good ol' Blue Chip investing commonly considered safe before the introduction of internet day trading..... On the issue of politics I see everyone talking but not many listening and all the while people keep getting louder. The irony is that I think everyone basically wants the same things... There seems to be an abundance of irrational thinking right now as people become more and more emotional about the issues.....

Having taken up the free spirit lifestyle of a World Traveler and Thinker I can't say I have much to loose. Although I'm concerned I'm not overly worried......Finances ? I make very little and do just fine. I feel that my money is best wisely used now because you never know what might happen in the future. You can interpret that however you like but I will add that I'm not stupid....Excuse me while I wave my Thoreau like Vagabond Philosophy flag. Having little means you have little to loose, less to manage and ultimately more freedom. Material possessions are a burden. When I equate time spent living and working I tend to look at it this way. Do I want to spend 50 days of my life working for a luxury item or would I rather spend 25 days working, grab my backpack, and spend the next 25 days gaining an interesting life experience walking through the jungles of Borneo? When my days are done I can't take the luxury item but I can take the experience and impressions left by walking through the jungles of Borneo. Therefore I think a better investment is to forgo the material and invest in Life Experiences. This said, I must add that everyone is wired differently and I'm speaking purely for myself. Some may relate to my philosophy while others are much more inclined to go for the Lexus. It's a matter of personal preference and there's really nothing wrong with that...

Politically ? The Election ? My stance is this. I sincerely hope that good things come out of whoever gets elected. I will support our next president with a neutral mind until proven otherwise.......Both candidates have their pluses and minuses......... Remember the Alamo !.... What ??????????

Santigao Cathedral - Botafumeiro

While going through my Camino de Santiago photos yesterday I realized that I had not posted a short video of the Santiago Cathedral Botafumeiro I witnessed at Pilgrims Mass. The Botafumeiro is a giant incense burner that swings from the highest point within the building. The Botafumeiro was originally used in Medieval times to cleanse the odor brought in by pilgrims filling the cathedral after their long journey. I imagine there were also other reasons pertaining to ritual but I'm not sure what they are. Very impressive to see in person. Smells like Frankincense.

October 23, 2008

Galveston After Hurricane Ike




The other day I decided to drive to Galveston to see what it's like 40 days after Hurricane Ike rolled over the Island. I was in Spain when it hit but I had heard it was a strong storm. On September 13 it rolled right over Galveston and Houston during the middle night. Most all of Houston was left without power. For some it would be 2 to 3 weeks before power was restored. The streets were littered with debris and many of the sky scrappers downtown had lost numerous pane glass windows....

When I arrived home, over a month after the storm, Houston was pretty much cleaned up and seemed relatively back to normal. But I was told it was a much different story for the local Gulf Shores. I live less than an hours drive from Galveston and like to go there fairly regularly. Obviously I needed to see for myself.

On my way I passed League City, Clear Lake and Nasa with things looking pretty normal except for an occasional blown out sign or fallen tree. Nothing big. As I got closer to Galveston things became a little more noticeable as all of the bill boards are completely stripped clean. I then continued over the causeway.

Wow, what a difference! The first thing I saw were a number of boats littered along the highway. Not much further the mounds of debris. Mounds and mounds. Then I passed a very large multi acre lot where debris is being transported so that larger semis can load up and truck it out. Ike had pounded the Island hard with sustained winds well over 100mph coupled with a large storm surge that flooded most of the Island. Mounds and mounds of debris.

I first went to the seawall. Amazingly the seawall area looked pretty nice. It appears as though the wall did a good job. This area was likely the first to be cleaned up for image in order to help get something of the Galveston tourism business started as soon as possible. There is noticeable damage to parts of the seawall but the beaches actually look nice and clean. The most unfortunate loss to area are buildings that were built over the water extending out from the wall. Most notable is the loss of the famous Balinese room that stood since 1929. Known for being one of the hottest night spots around it hosted greats like Frank Sinatra and Bob Hope. It also survived a number hurricanes over the years. Now it's totally completely Gone ! Also gone is the famous Murdocks which was a famous bathhouse turned souvenir shop. Also gone, for better or worse, is Hooters. The large Flagship hotel suffered major damage and the drive to get on the pier its built on is gone. It stands alone. A wounded mass of building with windows broken and curtains in the flailing in the wind.

From the Seawall I headed to West Beach. It's an area beyond the seawall that's a great place for a long walk or run. I often like to go there.... Many beachouses are built along west beach but right now there are a lot fewer !... Basically, all of the front row beach houses on west beach are gone. Completely gone.. Scraped... All of the remaining houses have sustained various degrees of damage ranging from major to not too bad. It appears as though most of west beach is still without power, water, and I imagine sewer. West beach is a mess. The beach has a completely different landscape due to how the storm rearrange sand. Many, Many large piles of debris etc.... Big mess...

After west beach I returned to the city proper and decided to check out an area of historic homes located near 12th and Post Office. Many had survived the hurricane of 1900 so I wanted to see how they fared under Ike. Well, I guess they're built in the right place because things appeared to be pretty much unchanged. I didn't notice piles of debris like everywhere else on the island so I assume there wasn't flooding in that particular area. From there I headed over to the Strand which is located near the ship channel and cruise ship dock. Wow, what a mess! It's really terrible. The heart of some of Galveston's richest history had been flooded under 7-8 feet of water. Terrible mess. The actual structures look fine but it's going to be quite awhile before anything opens up on the Strand again...From there I headed back home..

I feel really bad for all of those who suffered loss over Hurricane Ike . My hopes and prayers go out to all that are affected. There's no doubt in my mind that Galveston will rebuild and get back on its feet as soon as possible. Alot of contractors and relief workers have moved onto the Island. I saw many out of state plates. It's going to take time but when all is said and done I'm sure Galveston will be better than ever.
























October 19, 2008

Jerry's Boots - From Santiago to Santiago

What you see in this photo is a pair of high quality Italian made Vasque Leather Sundowner hiking boots lined with 1st generation Gortex. These boots were Very popular in the 1980's. My friend Jerry purchased these back in the day. They did'nt fit him very well but he hung onto them anyway. Obviously he did'nt use them much and figured someday they would be good for someone or something. That someday arrrived last January when I flew into Santiago, Chile. I originally met Jerry and Ingrid in college and hadn't seen them in over 20 years. With the help of a mutual friend we had become recently reaquainted thru email and skype. Anyway, I was setting out for a two month trip to Chile and Argentina and they invited me to stay with their family. When I arrived at their home in Santiago, Chile I noticed that the soles of my boots were falling off. Even though the boots I was wearing showed little use and were only a few years old the soles were disintigrating after wearing them on the plane. Was it the security Xray machine, or, just a lousey batch of chinese rubber sole material ? Regardless, my boots were useless at that point and I had plans to hike in Patagonia. What to do ? At that moment Jerry thought of his Vasque boots and offered them to me. I tried them on and they fit well so Jerry gave them too me. This is where the story gets interesting. I aquired these boots in Santiago, Chile. I then wore them to Patagonia and Ushuaia, Argentina the modern day, "Fin del Mundo", end of the world. From there I wore them back to Santiago, Chile and then home. Due to considerable Patagonia wear I debated wether or not to take them on the Camino but decided I had just enough sole for the trip. I then used them for the entire Camino thus arriving in Santiago, Spain with Italian boots aquired in Santiago, Chile. From Santiago, Chile I then wore them to Finisterre the, "Old World", end of the world where I took the photo shown on this blog...... From Santaigo to Santiago. From the End of the World to the End of the World. Now, wouldn't it be something if Jerry's name was really James ?.....

The future of these boots ? They held up remarkably well on the Camino and I will likely have them resoled. You can still buy Vasaque Sundowners but they are not the same. The leather is different and they are made in China. Not much telling what the soles are made of.....

October 18, 2008

Camino de Santiago Video Shorts - Set 2

Walking on the Camino de Santiago talking to myself.

Passing thru a herd of cows while walking the Camino de Santiago.

Sitting at the "Pre Columbus" end of the world with Camino de Santiago walker Deb. Finisterre - Fin del Mundo - The End of the World.

Camino de Santiago - Video Shorts

While walking the Camino de Santiago I came to a road crossing just as the Tour of Spain was passing near Ventosa.

Early morning Shepherd and Sheep crossing the Camino de Santiago.

Walking thru the streets of Leon, Spain with fellow Pilgirms on the Camino de Santiago.

Closing Thoughts On The Camino de Santiago - Back In Houston


I'm back in Houston. The trip home lasted 20+ hours and was quite exhausting as I arrived home late last Wednesday night. Although I'm still trying to shake the jet lag I'd like to share some closing thoughts on my experience of walking the Camino de Santiago.

For me the Camino was an amazing experience that exceeded my expectations. I've traveled alot over the years and can honestly say the Camino is very special. In ways that are hard to describe I know it has changed me for the better. Some issues in my life seem clearer and I feel more at peace with new found understandings. I'm probably less sure, than before the Camino, as to what my next direction in life is but I feel remarkably at ease. Life is simple. No need to make it complicated. Things always work out......

Religion? Some walk the Camino for reiligious reasons and some do it just because they like to walk. Some believe in God while others are agnostic. A few may even be atheist. By the end, everyone, despite whatever belief, agrees the Camino is very Special. Its hard not to be changed in some way, by something, for the better.

Physical Demands? Some start out fit and athletic. Many are not fit at all have no athletic background. An unathletic French woman in her mid 50's whom I met towards the end put it this way,"The first week was pure hell but after that things got alot easier. The Camino is the most wonderful experience". If your new to the whole distance walking thing give yourself time early in the walk to get use to it all. Plan short days in the beginning and take care of your feet at the first sign of any problem. As long as your reasonably healthy all you really need is the desire to do it. One day at a time and before your know it, your in Santiago..

For anyone who is inclined and has the desire to walk the Camino my advice is to think no more and just do it. Do'nt worry about the details, etc. as all that stuff will likely sort itself out easier than can be imagined. The time to walk the Camino is when your interested and the desire is present. Some may feel a calling. It's not so much about deciding that someday will be the right time. It's more about taking advantage of the desire to walk when the time feels right and to NOT put it off. Naturally there is some planning involved when it comes to leaving home for 5 weeks, getting to St Jean Pied Port, etc,. etc. but while walking the Camino I would'nt reccomend planning anything more than 2 hours in advance. All you need to know is that you will be walking alot. Just let it happen. Allow the Camino to work it all out and an amazing experience will surely unfold. The biggest challenge is the self but as long as your leave yourself alone things will be fine if not great or excellent. The Camino teaches this lesson very well....

The scenery and villages rich with character, characters, and history make the Camino a beautiful experience, however, its really the people walking the Camino that make it particulary special. People come from all over the world with a common goal. Simply to walk to Santiago. Walk, eat, sleep and walk some more. It makes no difference wether or not you speak the same language or know what each other does for a living. The many multitudes of characteristics that we as humans normally use to label, catagorize, and/or undersatand an individual are more or less irrelevant on the Camino. It just does'nt matter.. This biggest complaint about anyone walking the Camino may be that they snore loudly or get up at 5am to rustle thru their bags in the albergue for an hour. During my time on the Camino I found that most any talk about other pilgrims was generally supportive, endearing, and/or uplifting. I noticed an extreme lack of negative gossip which was quite refreshing.

Now for some nuts and bolts info.....No matter what the books say you may find it interesting to know that the busiest months, according to hospitaleros, are May and September. May is generally rainy and September is usually much drier. July and August are considered too hot for those going the full distance from France. The final 100k is busiest during the summer as individuals and tours walk the last 60 miles in order to obtain a compostela in Santiago. Most of these groups are supported and have all sorts of ways of going about walking the last 100k. It's the large groups doing the final bit that account for July and August statistically being the busiest months. A hospitalero in Viloria de Rioja said there are few pilgrims in the middle of summer. I found September to be great for walking. There was very little rain and aside of a few warm days temperatures were cool with some nights being downright cold..... I saw plenty of people and some would worry about getting a bed in an albergue for the night. There was only one occasion where I saw people shut out with absolutely no other option. It only happened once and in my opinion if the hospitalero at the albergue had a little more of a pilgrim spirit there would'nt have been a problem at all. Anyway, I always got a late start and although some albergues would be full, when I arrived, there was always overflow space available nearby. I camped quite a bit because I like to camp and often preferred the added privacy and peace afforded by a tent. Virtually no one camps on the Camino but I found it to be one of the hidden gems if you don't mind carrying a tent. Many albergues allow camping and usually it's alot better than being inside with the snorers. Often I would camp at an albergue and use the the facilities. This worked out really well. I preferred to camp as long as the weather was good. With a little asking around I think many options for camping can be found. As far as sleeping in the albergues goes it was usually better than I anticipated and sometimes really nice. However, I do reccomend ear plugs and eye mask. They can make a big difference by helping to insure a good nights sleep. Some albergues only have 2 beds in a room while others could have 20, 30, 50 or even one with over 100 beds in a room ! Lights are usually turned off at 10 pm and generally everyone has to be out by 8 am the next morning....... Getting there and back ? I flew to London for a couple of days and then caught a Ryan Air flight to Biarritz. From there it was a short bus ride to Bayonne and a peaceful hour or so on train to St. Jean. From Santiago I took a train to Madrid (7 hours). Flew home from Madrid. I was very happy with this travel plan....
Well, I think this is going to wrap up my Camino de Santiago specific blog topic but I'll soon be adding a short story on my walking boots and some short films I recorded with my small digital photo camera while on the Camino...
Hasta Luego! Buen Camino !

October 12, 2008

On To Madrid..... From Pilgrim to Traveler

I´m currently in Santiago waiting to catch my train to Madrid early this afternoon. It´s a little strange being back in Santiago a week after completing the Camino. There are plenty of fresh Pilgrims just arriving and non of them look familiar. Everyone I met along the way is either back home or moving on to something else. The walk to Finnistere was a great way to close a fantastic journey and Muxia was the bonus prize. I arrived in Santiago yesterday morning. Last night I joined Han, Carla, Joyce, and Marlouse (all from Holland), Swan from Germany, and Max from the states (who I had´nt seen in a week)..... Han and joyce will head back to their sail boat in the Caribbean Dutch ABC´s and prepare to sail to New Zealand. Joyce, a Life Coach, is on her way back home to her husband and plans to take a more relaxed approach towards living. Marlouse, a published romance author, will continue her travels as she makes time to write along the way. Swan is returning to Germany and her medical studies as an MD. Max is on his way home where he runs his own consulting buisness with the enthusiasm of a real entreupanuer.... Me ? Well, I must admit I´m ready to go home for the time being but in a week or two I´ll start getting ideas for the next journey and/or chapter in life. In a few short days I´ll be back in Houston. I no longer consider myself a Pilgrim. I´m a Traveler......In a week or so I´ll post some closing thoughts on the my experience of the Camino de Santiago......On another note..... What´s been going on in the World for the last 6 weeks ? I hardly have a clue .................

October 10, 2008

The Walk To Muxia - If You See A Fork In The Road ?

If you see a fork in the road on the way to Muxia from Finisterre I suggest you choose wisely. The walk to Muxia is absolutely beautiful but alot of the route is not marked very well and all of the maps are pretty lousey. Sometimes you come to a fork with no markings and you just have to go with what feels right. At one point there were two bold yellow arrows pointing the way. Just as I started to go with the arrows a couple of farmers pointed me the opposite direction where I spotted a prominent cement route marker. I took their advice against the trusty yellow arrows. Remarkably, with only a couple clues, I found my way without getting lost. I´m still not sure where the bold arrows went but a couple of other walkers followed them for 20 minutes before turning around and apparently finding the way I took. The route does not see alot of use but I know that people walk from Finisterre daily. Some make it without a problem while others get lost for hours. Luckily, I did not get lost and made good time. However, there were fairly long streches where I was´nt sure I was going the right way. Whenever I had a chance I asked a local if I was on the Camino Muxia. The key to the route is that you really have to pay attention and do the best you can to interpret any lousey map you may have. All said, It´s an exceptioanlly beautiful walk..... As you can see in the photo above there is a river crossing. Large stepping stones have been placed to allow a safe ford. Over time, some of the stones have moved and sunk a bit. Also, the water was up a little. I would´nt say the crossing was difficult yesterday but I can say there was ample opportunity to take a plunge. Two women I know, Joyce from Holland and a German whose name means "Little Swan", arrived at the river crossing after getting lost in the first 13 km. They were having a rough day. It was 4 pm and they had left Finisterre at 8:30. Both are strong accomplished walkers and "Little Swan has been walking since April. She started in Germany. Well, this was the final strech for Swan and just as she neared the end of the crossing she took a dive. Swan dive ? Pardon my humor. Fortunately she was not hurt but all of her stuff got wet. The seemingly placid stream contained a swift current so she had to swim muy rapido to retrieve important items such as passport, money, camera, etc.... All was retrieved successfully except for one boot insole. She can´t use her boots without the insole so she had to walk in her sandals the rest of the way. To bring closure to all of the miles of walking and a dramatic finish she hung her boots on a tree as a symbol of "Done". Perhaps a bird will build a nest upon them. Again, pardon my humor... Swan and Joyce caught up to me and a couple of others at a local bar around 9:00 pm... They had arrived in Muxia around 8:30. Swan´s nerves were first eased by a slug of scotch. We then shared food and wine while she told her story. Nerves were eased even more with laughter...... Today I´m laying over in Muxia. It´s a beautiful Spanish fishing village built upon a narrow penninsula but the architecture is quite stark and utilitarian. I´m staying at a nice guest house/pesion with a very hospitable host. Swan, Joyce, and couple from Holland are staying there as well. One big happy family. Camino family..... I think we´re all done walking for the time being.


October 9, 2008

Finisterre.... And On To Muxia....




I can´t think of a better way to end the Camino de Santiago than to walk to Finisterre...... I left Santiago on Sunday and arrived in Finisterre on Tuesday. The second day of walking included alot of rain but I can´t complain considering I saw hardly any while walking the Camino. Finisterre is a very nice finishing village with alot of character. Definitely worth a layover day so that´s what I did yesterday. I´ve made alot of new friends along the Camino and on this strech I met Deb from the Uk. We walked together quite a bit the last three days and I really enjoyed her company. Like me she works a few months and travels a few months. It´s always nice to meet other people who relate to the un orthodox lifestyle of a Traveler Thinker. Yesterday Deb went back home to the UK but I imagine we´ll cross paths again someday.... From the Village of Finisterre it´s a short 2 km walk to the former assumed end of the world. There are numerous trails and a variety of hiking options with some nice beaches. Lots of steep rocky hills with great views and plenty of rugged shoreline..... Well, I can´t stop walking just yet... Today I will hike 30 km to another coastal fishing village known as Muxia. I´ll be meeting up with a few other walkers during the day and the weather is great so it should be fun. I still have a few more days before flying home but once I arrive in Muxia I plan to be finished with walking in Spain for awhile. I´ll then start making my way towards Madrid....

October 4, 2008

Santiago and Beyond.... Gotta walk a little more !




Tappas and Vino at midnight. Yes, that´s the way it´s done in Spain and that´s what I did last night with mi Camino Amigos. All was not finished after a midnight dinner so a couple of more drinks before heading back to the Pension made for a late night. It all turned out to be my birthday celebration so I´ll be taking it easy this evening........... For me the walk is´nt over just yet. Tomarrow I´ll put the pack back on and set off to the end of the world. It´s only 90 km and a three days walk away. In the years before Christopher Columbus sailed the ocean blue in 1492 it was commonly believed by many Europeans that Finisterre, Spain was the end of the world. In medieval times after pilgrims had made their journey to Santiago they would continue to Finistere and burn their clothes before turning around and walking home. Hopefully with new clothes. Will I burn anything ? Not sure....

October 3, 2008

Greetings From Santiago !

I arrived in Santiago this morning. I presented my credential to the official office and recieved my compostela ( which is really kind of cool). I then attended the Pilgrims mass at a noon. Afterwards, I set out with a couple of other pilgrims to find accommodation for a couple of nights.... As expected I´m happy to have attained the goal of walking the Camino de Santiago but and am also filled with mixed feelings and can´t believe its already over. I´ve walked everyday for the last 30 days and enjoyed every bit of it. Life, so simple and rich. The Camino has ever more confirmed my belief that life is´nt supposed to be so difficult. For me the Camino was/is about the Journey, not the destination. Soon, I´ll begin contemplating the next direction as I navigate the options and choices brought about by the ever constant reality of change. The Camino has certainly made an impression therefore the next chapters in my life will likely be different because of it......... When I last wrote I was in Ribadiso. That evening Frank from California caught up ! I had´nt seen him in quite awhile so it was great to see him again. I also met up with Max from Boston whom I had met a couple of days previously but briefly. Max is a 31 year old conlsultant who´s originally from Florida. In the 30 days I traveled the Camino I only met 6 other walkers from the States. I know there are bound to be others but I only met 6. That evening we told stories and shared food and drink. Another nice night on the Camino..... The next day Frank and I were the last to leave the Albergue with aprrox. 40 k to Santiago. We walked together all day and passed thru the unappealling popular albergue stops of Santa Irene and Arco do Pino. Other than some nice stands of Eucalyptus trees along the way I can´t say the the walking was all that nice as it often paralleled busy roads. We hiked on and chose to stop at the large albergue located at Monte Gozo. Monte Gozo is only 5 km from the end of the Camino. Sometimes there are advantages to arriving late at an Albergue. Monte Gozo is a complex of numerous buildings and can house as many as 800 people. They had been putting most all of the other pilgrims in a couple of buildings which were more or less filled so they opened another building. Frank and I got not only our own room but our own building as well. Not bad for 3 Euros. It was very nice, quiet, and clean. At Monte Gozo we also met up with Max and got a local reccomendation on a nearby restaurant which proved to be great. 8 Euros for 4 courses with wine included. Definitely one of the best meals I´ve had on the Camino....... Today I walked in on my own and met up with Max and Frank at the Cathedral. After mass we looked for a place and found a nice 3 bed pension in the middle of the city for 55 Euros a night. Approx 18 Euros per person and good step up from an Albergue. Max an I roamed around this afternoon running into all kinds of people we´ve met along the way. Here I am, thousands of miles from home in a city I´ve never been, running into all kinds of friends and comrades. Really gotta love the Camino community. It´s been nice to feel a part of something bigger than just being by myself..... Tomarrow will be my first real rest day in a month. I´ll just roam around and sit in cafes. Tomarrow is also my birthday and other pilgrims know, so, who knows ? There may be a birthday party somewhere.... I´ll post more thoughts and some photos tomarrow....

October 1, 2008

Bloggin on the Camino....

I must say blogging on the Camino leaves alot to be desired. There is so much that happens everyday and life is so rich. So many sights, so many people, so many thoughts. When I sit down to write I often don´t know where to start. What you see in my blog is really just a collection of snipets. Merely snap shots of a moving picture. Often when I blog its not the most convenient time to write, or, even a time when I feel like writing. However, I really enjoy being able to share what I can when I have a chance. I´ve really made an effort to seek out a computer every evening. Often times the computers I find are non funciona or intermittantly funciona. Not to mention, internet time in Spain is relatively expensive and free albergue computers are often hard to use for more than 10 - 15 min..... I have not followed or seen any news for the past month. I know that Houston had a hurricance right after I left but I know very few details. I also have been quite bad about managing my personal emails, so, my apologies to anyone I´ve been slow to respond to..... I´m sure I´ll have more to write about the Camino after the Camino when I can sit down, collect thoughts and focus a bit more... Buen Camino !

Almost to Santiago - Last Night Was A Blast !

I guess it´s appropriate that tunes from Bob Dylans album, ¨Slow Train Coming¨, rolled around my head as I walked this morning. The Camino is a little different now. My thoughts have been taken on a more comtemplative tone. I´ve been walking alone..... I may be walking alone but I´m not alone. There are alot of new faces and people walking with little day packs talking on their cell phones. At least that´s the way it was yesterday morning. You see, in order to be a bonified certified recognized official Pilgrim all you need to do is walk the last 100k of the Camino. Upon arrival in Santiago you then go to a special office and show an official your credential. A credential is a booklet that allows you to collect rubber stamps from albergues, churches, and misc. places along the way to prove you were really on the Camino. Upon official approval you then recieve a compostela (certificate) that declares you a certified pilgrim....Portomarin is close to 100k from Santiago. Yesterday I got my usual late start and quickly found myself within a herd walkers I´ve never seen. The core group of fellow walkers who have been on the Camino awhile has been diluted by a fresh set of newbies. I arrived at the first cafe/bar and it was packed. After a quick cup of coffee I decided I needed to move ahead of the heard. It took me all morning to do so but by afternoon I found the Camino to be more tranquil. Knowing that the herd would be staying in Palas de Rei I chose to push a little further and found myself in the quiet enclave of Casanova for the night. There´s a nice little albergue there so I asked the hospitalero if I could camp. She then ran across the street to ask someone if I could camp in the farmers field next to the albergue. No problema, so thats what I did. While setting up camp I noticed what sounded like nearby shot gun blasts but did´nt think much of it. When I crawled into my tent for the night the blasts were still going off. Being a Texan I did´nt think much of it. I then noticed the blasts were going off at 10 to 15 min intervals. I expected it to stop but it did´nt. This lasted all night and in all honesty I still slept ok. It really did´nt bother me. This morning when I left I hardly noticed it anymore because I´d gotten so use to it. Amazing. Not sure what it was but now I don´t think it was a shot gun. I think it´s some kind of automatic blast to run rodents and birds away from a farmers garden. Again, I´m amazed at how things that would bother the heck out of me at home don´t bother me much, if at all, on the Camino.... Today was a fairly average walking day and although I´m seeing more people on the Camino I did´nt experience the actual herd today. Tonight I´m camped in a very nice field behind the albergue in Ribadiso... Tomarrow will be my last full day of walking beofore Santiago. I plan to stop just shy of arriving in the city. I´m approx. 4o km away...