The bad weather never materialized overnight at Hartland Quay. Just a little bit of light rain. After finishing a full English breakfast it only made sense to continue on as the clouds were light with sun and blue sky showing through. It seemed kind of silly to be so cautious about the English weather as I’ve hiked through plenty of wind and rain on past walks. However, the weather service had issued an alert for potentially severe weather and locals were talking about it. To me it looked like a nice day to hike.
As it turned out it was a very nice day to hike. The skies were a little variable and overcast but not bad. The air was relatively warm and humid but not what I’d consider hot. I made good time enjoying the views off to my left as I rounded Hartland point and followed rolling ridgeline with cliffs to one side and farmland to the other before entering forest as I neared the old fishing village of Clovelly. I covered the planned 11 miles quickly and easily.
Clovelly is probably one of the most interesting old fishing villages I have ever visited in England. The Coast Path passes the top of the village at a large parking area. The village itself is constructed on a steep hillside with one main cobblestone street dropping down past shops and residences to a harbor with a hotel pub at the bottom. Cars are not allowed nor do I think it would even be possible to drive up and down the cobbles. I did notice a proper side road that appears to access the harbor some kind of back way.
Clovelly caught my interest right away and I definitely wanted to stay in the village for the night. I noticed a hotel near the top of that was advertising a good rate with vacancies. I wandered down a little further and checked with a couple of B&B’s which can be a good value in England. Cornwall and Devon tend to be expensive but I was able to find a very nice room with a view for 30 pounds. Of course a full English breakfast is included. Since the only way to accommodation is by walking up and down the steep cobbles I think it keeps demand and price within reason.
The older couple who owns and runs the B&B are extremely nice. The husband was working on their impressive Garden when I arrived. He had also just repaired the hot water so asked if I could wait an hour or so before washing up. I dropped my pack and headed down to the harbor where I found a smoked mackerel sandwich and tried to compete with German tourists for a pint at the pub but lost. The pub was just too busy and the Germans kept cutting in front of me so left and went up to the pub at the top of the village where a couple of guys were wheeling fresh ale down the cobbles on a kart.
By 3 pm all of the tourists were gone and the village is now very quiet. The owners of the B&B say the building is over 600 years old but the village is older. It’s now raining but it just looks like typical English rain to me. Typical English weather is on the forecast.
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