I’m now back in Ulaanbaatar after nine amazing days bouncing around the Mongolian countryside in a 4 wheel drive Russian made van. The group of 5 included myself, a Mongolian driver who spoke just enough English for Comfort, a straight shooting Brit, and an Irish couple who constantly expressed their love for one another through witty affectionate praises and insults.
Our driver, Agee, proved to be a fine man as he skillfully navigated highways more accurately categorized as four wheel drive roads. Pavement is rare, signs rarer, and a road map more or less useless unless you’re Mongolian or have a keen sixth sense.
Two weeks is far too little time for Mongolia. I could easily spend two to three months roaming about the country. Nonetheless, I think I made good use of my time as I happened on a Shamanic ritual, glimpsed a wolf, rode a horse, soaked in a hot spring, hiked a volcano, slept in a Ger, and ate Mutton, Cow and Yak while contemplating an environment that made me think of what the American West might have been like over a hundred years ago.
Thousands of sparsely populated square miles amidst a vast open land of mountains and hills with nomads and livestock sprinkled about provide the backdrop for a lost in time way of life. Gers (yurts), a round canvas tent with sheep’s wool insulation, stove pipe shooting up through the roof middle, and no windows are the preferred shelter of choice. A horse is still your most valued possession and traditional style clothing the norm.
Things have changed little for those living in the wilds of Mongolia. Wilds meaning pretty much the entire country outside of a few cities. The towns are rugged and rough. A hitching post is still a necessity for dirt road simple wood built communities as a horse is the only, if not preferred, transportation for many.
I met Simon, from England, while in Chengdu, China. I met Irish Gary and Sinead in Beijing on the way to catch the train to Mongolia. I hadn’t seen Simon since Chengdu but he just happened to get on the train in the middle of the night at the Mongolia China boarder. Upon arrival in Ulaanbaatar we converged with the same idea in mind. Hire a driver directly to avoid a tour company expense and come up with our own plan. Simon, Gary, and Sinead wanted to be dropped off at Hovsgal Lake after 7 days to trek for a couple of weeks and visit people who raise and ride Reindeer. Within a quick two days, as hoped, we set things up and bought camping supplies. We found our driver with vehicle through the owner of the guest house that I stayed at. It’s amazing how easily these things come together when traveling. We are all seasoned travelers which made quick planning all the more easier.
I considered abandoning my plans for the Trans Siberian railway at the opportunity to spend more time in Mongolia but chose to stick to my original plan and returned to Ulaanbaatar after nine days. Tomorrow I’ll board a train to Russia but for now here are some photos. More stories to follow. I would have posted sooner but believe it or not internet still doesn't exist in some parts of the world.
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