May 14, 2009

30 Days In The UK


Cruising at 35,000 feet above the snowy expanses of Labrador I felt this would be a good time to reflect upon the past 30 days. A month now passes in what use to seem like a few days. It feels as though I just left yesterday, however, when I think about all I’ve done I get a better feeling of how long I’ve been gone. Life is full when I travel. Never a dull moment. Like always, it’s nice to be back home for the first few days but it doesn’t take long before I start thinking about the next adventure.

The two weeks on the Pembrokeshire Coast were great. It was nice to have the company of my friend Deb for most of the hike. The days were full of walking interspersed with visits to quaint villages and warm pubs. Upon completion of the Coast Walk I spent a little time in Cardigan and Aberystwyth before hopping a bus to England. I had originally thought that I would go to Ireland or the Mt Snowden Region of Wales after the Coast Path but when I travel I always like to keep plans loose and open for any new possibilities along the way. Before Deb left the Coast Path she extended an invitation for me to visit the Norfolk region. Having the opportunity to spend time with locals is one of the best ways to experience a different culture. Sine I enjoyed Debs company on the walk it only made sense to take her up on the offer which I gladly did.

First I spent time with her father who lives in a village amidst lovely agricultural countryside. I was treated to a couple of days visiting sights, pubs, and an abandoned B 27 airfield that was built by the Americans during WW2. He grew up in a farm house located next to and directly below a B-27 flight path. He was quite proud to show me a piece of shrapnel that fell through the roof of his childhood room as a flaming plane came in for a landing. He had some great stories of the Americans soldiers etc... After a couple of days Deb caught up with me at her fathers and we headed up to the Lower Peaks Region for some walking amidst, open hills tidy villages and Aristocratic Estates…

My final week I got to experience what living in Norwich might be like. Deb arranged for me to stay with her friend Jane who has a large home and is use to roommates. I stayed for a week. On the first evening I met a number of Debs friends at a Pub. As always I tend to like to sit with my back to the wall and in corner if possible. It allows me to see what going on. A psychic once told me I was gun fighter in a past life. Anyway, that’s a different story. At first it was just me and Debs as we ordered pints from the very friendly hospitable manager before I chose the table in the corner. Then people started showing up. A very nice lady in a red dress with red lipstick sat down next to me and got all chatty as she crossed the close talking zone by an inch or two. Her husband sat to my left and we started talking about sailing. Jane showed up with a cider in her hand. Another guy who works on a tanker four weeks on/off was in town and bought me pint. Others followed. All was well and fine until some strange middle aged bald headed guy invited himself to join us and started rambling about something that made no sense and the women seemed put off. I moved to another chair and someone bought me a half pint. For the next week I would find myself in various pubs around Norwich every night. I don’t go out every day at home but in England going out to a pub every evening just kind seems like the thing to do. I quite enjoyed it.

After a couple of days I got to know the layout of Norwich and explored the area by walking and running. Staying at Janes worked out well. While I was there she was busy with her second job which is day trading at home. She would sit at the computer with a cup of tea smoking thin roll your own cigarettes as she nervously watched her trades like a hawk. All the while she seemed to be questioning the pros and cons. “Now it’s going up, I should have bought. Oh no, it’s going down. Wish I’d sold”. Her thought process was sometimes interrupted by a coughing fit. Once the coughing stopped she would say something like, “Why do I smoke? Because I’m stupid. That’s why”. Then she would lite up another cig and go back to trading. From my perspective it was all kind of comical. Jane was good company and easy to be around. I’m very thankful for her hospitality an open door.

In no time I was in with a local group which included Pete. He runs a housing co-op along with some other some real estate which keeps him busy managing things. Pete is a long time local and pub regular. If you know Pete and drop into a pub for one quick pint, forget it. The reality is your closing the place and he will make sure you stay well hydrated as he rattles off one story after another. He’s a colorful character with a big heart.

One day while in Norwich I hopped a train to Cambridge for the afternoon. Wow, what a place! Walking around the university really made me wish I’d had a better attitude towards school as a kid. The buildings, grounds and libraries are all very impressive. I stumbled upon the Trinity college library which is really kind of a mind blower. Shelves and shelves of leather bound books. Many all done by hand and hundreds of years old. You can’t touch any of them but some of the better works can be viewed behind glass. One of my favorites was an original Shakespeare folio from 1601 with previously unreleased works.

For my final day in Norwich Debs and I spent our time walking through the countryside of Norfolk. Of course this was followed by an evening with friends at a Pub. That night I said my goodbyes to Deb and others. Pete gave me Bear hug and wished me well. I enjoyed Norwich and felt like I could have stayed longer but I needed to get to London to catch a flight home……. Ok, just to clear the air for all my friends who may be wondering ??? Although Deb and I spent quite a bit of time together we are strictly friends. Nothing romantic. I imagine Deb and I will cross paths again given our similar interests in travel and walking. Her company, hospitality and invitations really made my trip. I am enormously grateful!

From Norwich I took a train to London and rendezvoused with my friends Susan and Holger. I stayed with them last September on my way to Spain. They live in a nice part of London near Primrose Hill and Regent Parks which are very nice for walking. It was great to catch up with them and I was excited to find out that they are expecting their first child in a few months.

I only had one full day in London so as expected I walked through parks. I also visited the all Elvis store which is located next to the all Beatles store. I passed a few Pubs but by time I arrived in London I was pubbed out. Yes, too much of a good thing can get to be a little too much.

So, there it is. Another trip passed. I once again really enjoyed the Uk with all of its lovely natural beauty, villages and of course, Pubs. I’m not sure when I’ll go back but when I do I’ll likely visit the Cornwall coast next time I’m there. For now I think my next overseas travels will take me somewhere far more foreign and exotic. I’m thinking Asia….

May 6, 2009

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path



















I left Houston for London on April 13. The plane was delayed by more than 3 hours due to a faulty toilet which made me to miss my train to Wales. That caused me to have to fork out over $100 for a last minute ticket! Now that’s what I call a bunch a crap !…..(Side note. Trains in the Uk are generally a bad deal unless you buy online well in advance.) By time I arrived in Kilgetty, Wales I was wired more than tired as a cold rain set in. Luckily my friend Deb was there to pick me up at the station. I surrendered the thought process to her as she drove me to a pub for food and a pint. After a couple of libations she rung up the cheapest B&B and booked me in for the night. We planned to meet up again in the morning to start a 200 mile walk up the Pembrokeshire Coast of Wales.

The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is one of 8 national trails in the UK. I have hiked in Scotland and England but never Wales. I decided that the Coast Path would be a perfect option for a walk in Wales and I was not disappointed. The trail does a good job of hugging a coastline that’s comprised mostly of steep rocky cliffs interspersed with fine sandy beaches. I chose to go during mid April because statistically mid April to mid May is when Pembrokeshire receives the least amount of rain. It’s also the time when the flowers are at their peak.

The first day was an easy one with lovely weather. I was still wired from the flight over. After a short 7 mile hike Deb and I spent our time in Tenby checking out pubs. In the evening we had a good pub curry before backtracking a little ways to a spot I noticed on the way in that would be suitable for camping. Thus began the pattern. Hike all day. Pub along the way. Camp. What I really enjoy about hiking around Europe, in general, is that your bound to pass through at least one village a day if not more. The villages and all they have, or, have not to offer become an integral part of the journey. The coast path passes through a mixture of small fishing, agricultural, and beach communities as well as a couple of industrial settlements. In between populations the trail traverses spectacular and relatively remote stretches of beautiful Welsh coastline.

Once we got started with the walk the plan was no plan. I just figured it would take around 2 weeks. We spent our days soaking up reasonably good weather and did not hesitate stop at a beach or a pub along the way. The only time we really put any pressure on ourselves to make a decision was when it was nearing dark and we knew we would have to stop for the night. Other than that we just chose to soak up the scenery with all its dramatic ocean views and flowers busting out all over the place. In the southern portion the sea cliffs are maroon color but in the north the cliffs turn gray and charcoal black. A good variety of birds were ever present as well as a few seals amidst some of the coves.

It was a windy camp at Freshwater East but a still and peaceful one the following night amidst the dunes beyond Castlemartin. Well, it was once the nearby military training ground stopped blowing stuff up. The day to Pembroke was a long one as we walked the length of Angle Bay past an oil refinery. In Milford Haven it was time to splurge a little so we found a great inexpensive B&B complete with waterfront view, friendly helpful hosts and a big breakfast. B&B’s can be a very good value in the UK. You can easily find a nice place for $30 to $45 and breakfast is usually good for about $8 to $10 of that.

Milford Haven looked oddly like a place you would find in Massachusetts. The architecture, boat marina, etc., reminded me more of Newport, Rhode Island or Cape Cod than old world Europe. When inquiring about a place to eat the hosts at the B&B recommended a restaurant called Marthas Vineyard. Interesting….. Well, as it turns out, during the American Revolution there were some who opposed fighting and chose to return to England instead of supporting the revolution. There was actually a notable migration of early Americans back to the UK. A lot of them settled in the area now known as Milford Haven. I had no idea…

At Sandy Haven we timed the tide wrong and had to walk an extra 4 miles along a road on our way to Dale but got to visit a pub and sample the the local spring brew from the area. Just beyond Dale we camped near a tall beacon which afforded a dramatic broad view. In the distance we could see ships anchored for the night and the fiery glow of an open flame at a refinery in the distance. Beyond Milord Haven we ventured on to more remote sections of the path past Maroles Sands, Little Haven & Broad Haven. Camped near Solva we were visited by a herd of cows in the middle of the night. I figured cowboys never had much problem sleeping amidst cows so no need for concern as we shooed them off.

On day 9 we walked into Wales smallest city known as St Davids. It’s known for a cathedral built upon the grounds of an old monastery. The history of it goes back over 1,000 years. Built, destroyed, raided by vikings, rebuilt, and on and on. Good stuff. As Deb and I checked it out someone was going at it on the Cathedral organ as we viewed stoned carved caskets of notables who had passed over the last thousand years or so….. St. Davids gave an impression of a different kind of place.

St Davids is a little over a mile off the Coast path and Debs thought it would be a good time for another B&B. She also figured out how we could hike another 8 miles that day and bus back without the burden of our packs for a change. First we needed to find accommodation and chose the cheapest place in the book. When we knocked on the door the proprietor first appeared puzzled. Deb inquired and he said he had room. In the UK the cost of a stay is based on per per person. This place was 25 pounds. One person in a room is 25. Two in the same room is 50. Therefore you always want to get your own room because its almost always the same price as sharing. Anyway, he had two rooms but beyond that he did not talk like a regular host. Instead he made an odd Hmm, hmmmm, hmmm noise that seemed to be uncontrollable. When he showed us the rooms it looked like each one was being lived in. Towels hung in odd places. Teapot set up. Numerous cups and pillows oddly placed about. A little too much like someones home. Quite out of the ordinary. No wonder tourist information did’nt recognize the establishment. The place was kind of strange but Deb seemed to be getting a kick out of it. I hesitated but the accommodation, although odd and kind of cluttered, seemed clean and well equipped. Ok, “We’ll take the rooms”…. Hmm, Hmmm, Mmm. His dog barked with approval….. We then went out for another 8 miles of walking and returned to St. Davids via bus. On the way back we got to chat with some locals. Some Welsh surfer dude was raving about a breakfast that was so big and good it made him want to spew. I inquired in a joking fashion if St Davids had a church. The locals did'nt get my joke and quickly responded, “Yes, we have a Cathedral!”.. Duhh…… Back at the B&B it was more Hmm, Mmm, Hmm. The host was nice enough in a ho hum kind of way but few if any words were exchanged. … Next, the pub. That’s when things got peculiar.

After days of fine Ales the beer turned weird. It did not taste like beer should taste. It tasted funky. I voiced my complaint because I was certain something was wrong. They poured me a couple of different varieties and offered to give me my choice of a different beer…. Same result, all were funky. A local at the Bar made fun of me in the style of good friendly humor…. The staff, although somewhat quirky, were very friendly. I stuck with my original beer because they were so nice and everything else tasted just as strange. At that time some guy made a grand exit by loudly stating that men are this and that and the sheep are scared. I ordered lamb curry for dinner and washed it down with something resembling beer.

St. Davids was the last stop for Debs. She needed to get back to her home and work in England. She proved to be a good hiking partner and I really enjoyed the company. Deb is an avid walker, hiker, and traveler so we share a lot of similar interests. During the last evening together we made plans to meet again.

From St Davids I still had another 4 days to the finish with the best miles yet to come. On my way to Trefin the climbs got bigger, the path more rugged, and the scenery more dramatic. I passed through the lovely fishing village of Porthgain where I stopped for a half pint at the Sloop Inn. At Trefin I chose to stay at newly renovated hostel and had the whole place to myself. The next the day was filled with more stunning sea cliff beauty as a trekked 20 miles to Fishguard where I stayed at another hostel by myself.

The walk from Fishguard to Newport was one of those days I was bound to get sooner or later. Cold windy horizontal rain with gust that could darn near blow you off the cliff. I arrived at the hostel in Newport with hands so cold I could not fill out the registration form. That night I shared a room with an 80 year Brit who is a avid walker and full of stories. Good company…

The final day was a nice day for hiking with some of the finest coastline of the walk. On the last day I actually got to finish twice. The coast path ends at the Village of St Dogmaels. About a mile and a half from the finish I passed a desirable hostel set upon a hillside with a very nice view of Poppit Sands Bay. I thought it would be great to stay there for the night but it was around 3 pm and it did not open for check in until 5 pm. With the end so near and the thought of a nice pint I decided to continue onward to St Dogmaels. All the while I was still thinking it would be nice to stay at the hostel. St Dogmaels presented itself as a nice and quiet little village. I paused for a few minutes at a park marking the end. As expected I experienced the somewhat melancholy happy to have reached my goal but what now feeling that I always experience after a long distance walk. I wandered over to the Pub still thinking the about the hostel but that would require backtracking a mile and a half with most of it uphill.……. After an obligatory celebratory beer I contemplated where to stay for the night. A local saw me wandering about and asked if I needed help. I inquired if he knew of any campgrounds, cheap B&B’s etc… He said, “ Well there’s a B&B over there but the lady is kind of eccentric. There’s another up that way that’s run by a good bloke and then there’s the hostel”. I replied, “I like the hostel but don’t feel like walking anymore”. He responded, “I’ll give you ride !”…. So, I threw my pack into his vehicle and he shuttled me up to the Hostel. I thanked him profusely as he drove off and I walked over to reception. It was almost 6 and no one was around. I was confused until I read the fine print of the notice on the door. Closed Sunday and Monday. It was Sunday. Well, not much to do but finish again! Down the hill I went and back to St Dogmaels for the night. At that point I didn't give it much thought and checked into the B&B run by the good bloke which turned out the be great!….. I spent the evening eating and drinking at a pub with two locals telling me colorful stories about their friend the one legged fisherman and how he could carry three pints without spilling a drop……… I always meet interesting characters when I travel alone....

Overall, I really enjoyed the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. The mixture of stunning coastline blended in with a variety of interesting villages and beaches make it a unique experience for the long distance walker. This all goes without saying that I found the Welsh to be very friendly and hospitable which greatly enhanced my time spent in Pembrokeshire region of Wales…..

Photos From The Pembrokeshire Coast Path




April 27, 2009

Great Beer, Good Service, No Need To Tip ! Feeling Fine In Mornin...


Two pints and you will feel fine in the mornin… Here in the Uk a pint of beer is 20 U.S. ounces filled to top at a current exchange price of $3.75 with no expectation to tip. I stick to the Real Ales. Straight from a cask and hand pumped into a glass void of the excessive demon C02 which I am convinced is a major element in causing the dreaded hangover. Two pints of real ale and I experience no ill affect whatsoever. I've even experimented with drinking a pint for lunch and hiking 10 miles afterwords with no repercussions. Actually, I think a pint of real ale enhances hiking performance. Back in the states if I have one 12 ounce bottle of fizzy lager I’m well on my way to un-productivity. A couple of more and I’m a slug. More than 3 and I’ll feel like crap the next day. Three pints of real ale and I feel fine the following day. Not to mention that Real Ale tastes far better than just about anything your going to find in America. Notice I said America. That includes Central and South as well....

American beer is expensive. First of all a pint in the USA is closer to 14 ounces and there’s likely to be a layer of foam on top so your actually getting around 12 ounces. Last night I saw lady pour a beer like an American bar tender. There must have been a half inch of foam on top. She no sooner put it out in front of the customer that he commented, “Almost full”… She quickly took it back and filled it to the top. A decent American micro brew will run you a minimum of $4 for a poorly poured 12 ounce pint. To add insult to injury a $1 tip is pretty much the standard. So, it’s five or six dollars for a beer that will probably make you feel lousy the next morning if more than three are consumed…. What kind of value is that ????

One of the things I really like about the Pubs in the UK is that tipping is not expected. Your welcome to leave a little change at the bar if you want but it’s not necessary. If you order food from the bar you don’t have to tip. The only time you tip is if you sit down at a restaurant for dinner. That’s where a 10% gratuity is customary. Overall, service is good despite not having a tip custom. There won’t be anyone checking on you every five minutes to see if you need anything but you will be well taken care of most all of the time.
Imagine if the States had a pub that served Real Cask Ales along with good hearty food and tipping was not expected…. I wonder how that would go over ?.... Has it ever been done ? Just a thought……

April 25, 2009

On The Pembrokeshire Coast Path - Pub Vibe















It’s a brisk and windy morning in the Welsh fishing village of Fishguard. For the past eleven days I’ve been walking along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path of Wales. It weaves its way along 200 miles of spectacular coastline passing through beaches and villages along the way. Most of the trail is atop coastline cliffs with wide open views but it’s imperative that one watch each step closely. In many places just a step or two off the wrong direction will send a walker over the edge and into the sea….

For the first 9 days I had the good company of fellow Camino de Santiago walker Debs. We met on the way to Finistere, Spain last Fall. Since she lives in England it was convenient for her to join me. While walking with Deb we took advantage of favorable weather and utilized the enitirety of everyday to stop at a village pub and/or beach for a leisurely break. It wasn't uncommon to find us at a pub in the evening before walking up the path a bit, right before dark, to find somewhere to camp. Given the regularity of villages it would be easy to stay in B&B’s, Hostels, or Camping Barns every night but for a budget traveler camping is the way to go.

Aside of the beautiful scenery and friendly Welsh people, pubs are equally a highlight. Every village has at least one pub which is almost always the center of social activity. In a odd way every pub is different and every pub has a vibe. For the first night Deb and I camped near Tenby. It’s a fairly large place with several pubs. We visited all of them. Some are modern while others are old and what locals refer to as proper. The first pub we visited was old and proper with a good vibe. We then visited a couple of others but as soon as we walked in we walked out. Not the right vibe. We found one pub that boasted to be friendly and warm so we decided to give it a chance. After one drink we found it to be quite the contrary. Although we did have a beer we wished we hadn't. Bad pub vibe. After that we went back to the pub where we originally started our tour and had dinner. Often times when there is more than one Pub to choose from it’s best to go with your initial instinct…... All in all most pubs are good and the staff quite friendly but all pubs have their own unique character and characters….. One of the best Pubs Debs and I visited was the Point House at Angle Point. It’s around 400 years old and the fireplace has allegedly been lit for over 300 years. Warm, friendly, and proper with the best curry fish chowder I’ve ever had….

Well, today I’ll walk a relatively short 11 miles to the village of Newport. Yesterday I walked an honest 20 miles and at this point with only 27 miles to go I have no need to rush…

For my next post I’ll address the issue of just how crappy American Beer really is and how nice it is to not have to tip……

April 21, 2009

Greetings From Wales !


Greetings from Wales !... For the last 8 days I've been hiking along the lovely Pembrokeshire Coast Path. It's a national trail that follows the Pembrokeshire coast for almost 200 miles. For this walk I have the good company of my friend Debs. I met Debs at the end of my Camino walk in Spain last fall. She's British, lives in England, and likes to walk. Good Company. So far weather has been mostly good if not stunning. Enjoying beautiful scenery and great pubs along the way!... Stay tuned for more... Cheers !.

April 8, 2009

Philosophical Writing Experiment #243XZ417X

As a thinker I feel it’s my duty to make some kind of attempt to convey thoughts eloquently like classic philosophers of the past. For this post I have chosen to take a stab at commenting on contemporary culture and state of affairs pertaining to an individual in modern society. In a style consistent with a stream of consciousness approach I've combined my Evergreen State College background and conservative Texas upbringing to create a statement. I have never much cared for heady philosophical jargon but creating it is kind of interesting. The key is to not really think or over analyze what’s being written until it’s done. For this experiment I wrote quickly and didn’t really think while writing. The great thinker/songwriter, Bob Dylan, once commented that he had no idea where his writing came from…. So, Here it is……..

THE UNTITLED by TODDIUS GILBREATHIUS

Those who stretch beyond the bounds of mediocrity pray for the peace of success. Sheltered within a structured space an oppressive orb of distention reveals a longing for something more. A purpose with meaning and a way through it all.

Foreign worlds surround us all within the microcosms of which we live and breathe. To fear a revealing of our own repressed truth is to persuade others who we are not. A mask is pleasant place to hide but a dreadful place dwell.

The begotten is forgotten as I stare at portraits of the past. Ghosts of the future come and gone. Dreams lived, forgotten, and or discarded. A mere glimpse of a fraction of time.. The wind blows and where once there were many there are none. An open field at one time a city. A civilization buried with the passing of time. I am left with a ponderance of existentialism.. But for what reason?..

The world is awash with the hem and haw of ill repute longing for the clarity of morality… A civilization with no rules is full of fools…….

Post Word……

In a few days I will be writing about distant lands, colorful people, and Pubs. To pour myself into the over analyzation of life’s complexities would be certain monkey business.

April 6, 2009

"Texas Johnny Brown" - Texas Blues


Last weekend was filled with Social activity.. It all started Friday night when I had the opportunity to hear and meet another Texas Blues Legend, "Texas Johnny Brown". Johnny got his start while playing with Amos Milburn on Aladdin Records during the 1940's. He then moved on to work with Ruth Brown and Atlantic Records during her early recordings. After that he landed a job working for Don Robey and Peacock Records, in Houston, as a Studio musician. During the 1950's and 60's he toured with Junior Parker and Bobby "Blue" Bland. He's credited with writing the all time classic, "Two Steps From the Blues". Made famous by Bobby Bland....

What really impressed me about Johnny is how smooth and quick he is on the guitar for his age. He's got to be around 80 but at work with his '76 Gibson Les Paul Standard you would never know it. His style ocillates between a rootsy blues and a jazzy blues blended with an old chord melody style reminiscent of the 1940's. He plays an interesting set. During one song he has no problem riffing it up with a good amount of tension while bending notes. During the next song he'll smooth it out with a slow jazzy style indicative of time spent as a studio musician. Some songs you just want to sit, look, and listen while other songs make you want to get up an move around the Dance floor. It's all backed up by,"The Quality Blues Band", which lives up to its name.

The venue he played is a dive located on the westside of Houston called Shakespears which was originally opened by a couple of Brits. The place has since changed owners but the beer selection is good with proper 20 oz. pints and a nice variety on tap.

After Johnny's first set I had the opportunity to speak with him briefly and bought one of his Cd's. Included was a photo opportunity and an autograph. If you ever get a chance to see him I definitely recommend it. His next two gigs will be at the Houston International Festival and the New Orleans Jazz Festival.. Both this April...

March 29, 2009

Milton Hopkins - Blues at the Shiloh... Thinkin Man's Music.

Texas is home to many of the all time Blues Music greats. When I noticed that Milton Hopkins was due to play at place just a 10 minute walk from where I live I knew I'd have to check it out.

The Shiloh Club is good old local neighborhood ice house. The place has been around awhile. It's laid out in a rectangular fashion with a with a funky poorly lit stage off to one side. The walls are full of beer signs and neon gives off a peaceful glow. The bar is worn and the mirrored back glass reflects a foggy image. The woman serving customers is on her game but would obviously rather be doing something else. Crusty characters tip back cheap beer and yell their approval for the band just getting started. I look off towards the stage as Milton Hopkins and Texas Johnny Boy get the show going.. The Shiloh is nothing fancy but its the kind of place well suited for the Blues. I pay $2.25 for a Lone Star beer, tip the bartender, and settle in for some of the best Blues Music I've heard in a long time......

Milton Hopkins was born a raised in Houston, Texas. He got his start at a very early age but his career really took form in 1950 while playing in Little Richard's band. After a couple of years he joined up with Johnny Ace and Willie May “Big Mama” Thornton. He worked for Don Robey, the founder of Peacock records, and recorded on Peacock and Duke labels in Houston. He also played with Clarence “Gatemouth” Brown. After Johnny Ace died from a self inflicted gunshot in 1954 he searched for a new situation but was drafted into the Army. Post military he joined the Upsetters. The Upsetters were a top notch R&B/Rock n Roll band that played for many of the great entertainers of the time. When Barry Gordy was putting together a band for his would be legendary Motown sound Milton was invited to join. He turned down Barry's offer and to this day I'm sure Milton regrets it. Throughout the 60's he played with many greats and when the 70's rolled around he was asked to join B.B. Kings band. For eight years he toured with B.B as his rhythm guitarist. As he got older allot of his musician friends starting dying off. The price of living a hard life often practiced by Bluesmen. Milton put down the guitar for 7 years and quit touring until one day he decided it was time to get back into the game. Now, at 75, he's enjoying it more than ever. Milton's heart has always been with the Blue's. If the name Hopkins rings a bell that's because his cousin was the late great Lightning Hopkins.

The first thing that really struck me about the Shiloh was the thin crowd. Given the quality sound of Milton Hopkins, Texas Johnny Boy, a seasoned bass player and a kickin drummer, I would have expected the place to be packed ! No cover, cheap beer, and a tip jar for the band. No doubt one of the best bargains in live music. Johnny Boy belted out some good vocals between harmonica and sax licks. Milton ran all up and down the fret board of his rare vintage 70's Gibson semi acoustic like the pro he is. Everything in rhythm with the bass and drums. Not to mention, a nice mix on the PA. Each song revealed a different variety of the blues. A Hispanic gentleman in a panama hat nodded his approval as he sipped on his mixed drink. A smart looking middle aged couple sat down their Shiner Bocks and scooted around the dance floor. A 50's something Vietnam vet coaxed a woman to put down her beer and cigarettes for dance. A rowdy bunch in the back expressed their enjoyment not by clapping but by yelling between songs. I ordered another Lone Star.

With the relatively small crowd I got the opportunity to shake hands and talk to Milton personally during their first break. Milton is very friendly and it was a real privilege to hear his stories. He told me about his days with Little Richard and Johnny Ace. He also told me about one time in Birmingham when he played with this new guy called Elvis. He toured extensively throughout the south back in the day and laughed when I asked him about chicken wire. Yes, he replied, “I ran into allot of that in Louisiana”. I had heard stories about stages set behind chicken wire. He said sometimes it was really necessary to protect the band. Fights would break out and bottles would fly across the room in some of the joints he played. He also told me about seeing the Beatles in Germany. Etc. Etc . He's got allot of great stories and is a real pleasure to visit with...

After the first break the music continued as Johnny Boy and Milton's repertoire honored all of the different Blues Genres. The crowd was mostly middle aged and a little rough around the edges. Everyone seemed to fit right into the songs being sung. The Shiloh is not a yuppie bar. A small group of younger people arrived and were wise enough to realize something special was going on. They ordered pink drinks for their girlfriends and soon hit the dance floor. A couple of other musicians showed up and broke out with a Sax and Trumpet. They blended in with Johnny Boy and a full horn section took hold as Milton played some smooth sounding Blues.... I was lovin it... Some of the best Blues I've heard in awhile. The real deal...

During their Second break I had the opportunity to talk with Johnny Boy and the bass player. The bass player ( whose name I didn't quite catch but I think its Dion) had some great stories of playing the clubs along Telephone road that were home to the music scene of Houston back in the day. More great stories...

By time the band finished their encore, a little past 1 am, I had had plenty to drink but didn't mind the walk home. Earlier in the evening I debated whether or not to go but I would have been a fool to miss it. Sometimes you walk into a situation and everything seems to fall into place. The sights, sounds, people, state of mind and timing all play a role in influencing ones experience. For me it was a great night where I really connected with the music. Blues is about life. It's about feelin and living through the feelings. It's light, dark, and soul moving rhythm blended with the wisdom that comes through life experience. Blues puts it all out there in a medium for everyone to listen, relate, enjoy, and heal. The blues is a Thinkin Man's Music....