Hvar, Croatia

After five nights on Vis I boarded an early ferry back to Split passing the Island of Hvar in the distance as there was no direct way to Hvar. Upon arrival in Split I literally stepped off the boat and went straight to the booth for a ticket to Hvar. With a couple of hours between ferries I found a table at a cafe to pass the time.

Hvar has two ferry ports. One in Hvar Town and one in Stadi Grad. The port in Hvar Town is only big enough for the smaller catamaran passenger only ferries. Stadi Grad can take on the big car ferries. The catamarans are faster but can be crowded and cost more. I prefer the car ferries. You can walk around and have a choice of being in or outside. I don’t mind a little longer ride.

There’s a public bus to meet the ferry when it arrives in Stadi Grad if you want to go directly to Hvar Town. Stadi Grad is nice and relaxed without too many people while Hvar Town is the opposite. I figured I’d take the chance with Hvar Town as it has more to offer.

As expected the Town has plenty of tourists but it’s still quite appealing. The old town sits next to a smallish harbor with a fort atop a hill guarding from above. The town itself lacks fine beaches but has a lengthy waterfront walk that follows along a rocky shore with plenty of access points for a swim.

When I first arrived in town I went to a couple of tourist agencies to locate accommodation. I told the lady helping me that I didn’t mind walking and wanted a place in a quieter area. She found me a self contained room in a home with a balcony view of the sea which costs 250 Kuna. Less than $40 USD. The price is reasonable for Hvar considering it’s a prime tourist destination. There are two rooms for holiday rentals where I'm staying and the home is occupied by a hospitable older woman who speaks very little English.

I figured three nights on Hvar would be plenty and I’ve been here two nights so far. The last couple of evenings I’ve sat in the old towns plaza which offers excellent people watching. Interestingly Friday night was better than Saturday. European women definitely have a different flair for dressing up when they go out at night. Some dress more simply than others but the style and makeup is sharp. The look is tough. And the poise is confident. However, a common flaw is generally a cigarette. One thing I’ve noticed in Europe is that you see plenty of attractive young women but not very many attractive older women. I wonder why?

Yesterday I spent most all day cycling around the Island. I was able to rent a fairly decent mountain bike so I did a route that involved dirt and paved roads. It turned out to be a fantastic ride. I covered a good amount of terrain with some honest climbs as I found my way up to the top of the highest point on the Island. I must say it was one of the best bike rides I’ve done in a long time. Nice quiet roads. Great views. Perfect weather. It was definitely a highlight of the trip so far. After the ride I went for a swim in the sea and had a good diner before falling into a good hard sleep.

Well, I really went for it with the ride yesterday so naturally today I'm a bit flat. I strolled off for a nice short hike but other than that I haven't had much aspiration to do much more. This morning I awoke to find out I have neighbors in the room next to me and we share the long balcony. It’s a couple from Argentina. I said hi to them and spoke a little Spanish but they were not too friendly. After the short morning hike I returned to my room as I thought a nap might be nice. The couple was having lunch on the balcony. The man was talking loud and forceful. The woman barely talked. I couldn't really nap in peace with the balcony doors open. I’m not sure what to think about the guy or what the deal is but there’s a thick wall that separates our rooms. With doors closed I can’t hear a thing. I didn't even know they were there last night.

Tomorrow I will move on once again. I'm not sure if I will go straight to Dubrovnik via ferry or stop at another Island on the way. I guess I need to make that decision before the ferry leaves at 8:50 in the morning.