I never like arriving late and I wasn’t sure what to think when I stepped off the train in Yekaterinburg at 10:40 pm. I had tried to arrange for a Taxi pickup through the hostel but without a cell phone I wasn’t able to make clear arrangements. Nonetheless, I went to the area where taxis meet and there was no one to greet me. I pretty much figured I’d be setting myself up to be overcharged and can’t speak Russian so I kind of wanted to avoid a taxi that wasn’t prearranged. Some buses were still running and I debated hoping on one but on the other hand it was still quite light at 11 pm and I had clear directions for walking.
I quickly got my bearings and headed off on what I figured would be a 30 minute stroll. Considering I’d just spent 2 nights and 50 hours on a train I was happy to be on my feet so on I went.
The first thing I noticed was how many people were still out. There seemed to be a high percentage of couples walking hand in hand as well as older people enjoying the purple sunset with waspy clouds. The city felt safe and the streets noticeably clean. The air was cool and fresh. No need to worry. Sure enough, thirty minutes later I arrived at yet another Soviet built apartment complex.
I went around the side and dialed a number on a key pad to gain access through the fortress quality steel door and made my way up worn concrete stairs to floor 4. I was happily greeted by welcoming friendly attractive young Russian woman speaking fluent English with a nice Russian accent.
Katia quickly showed me around the homey one bedroom apartment with six bunks and a fold out sofa. She then pulled out a map to get me oriented. By this time it was about 11:45 and the sun still hadn’t quite set yet. I was also introduced to two nice young Austrian women, staying at the hostel, who are heading to Mongolia then China on the Trans Siberian. A British couple arrived not long after me. I took a top bunk above a large Australian who was out for the count.
Hostels in Russia are pretty cool and I’m actually enjoying staying in shared accommodations. Russia is not particularly backpacker central so the hostels tend to be small, cozy, and the managers friendly. It makes for a very hospitable atmosphere where everyone gets to know one another. It’s quite common to be sharing food and drink shortly after arrival.
Shared dorm style accommodation is definitely significantly cheaper than any other paid option for accommodation anywhere in Europe. With kitchen facilities, usually included, it can be quite economical. So, for now I’m on a hostel kick unlike China where I was all about having my on space considering it could usually be had for $8 to $15 USD. But that was China.
So far the Trans Siberian Railway has been a nice experience. On the trip from Irkutsk I first shared a 4 berth cabin with a young Electrical Engineer and two young girls with a baby. Fortunately the baby slept a lot. After they got off I shared the cabin with a couple in their 70’s who both had a mouth full of gold teeth. I really wanted to take their picture but they wouldn’t let me. Only one of the girls knew a few English words but otherwise it was all Russian. With my Berlitz phrase book I was able to make a few exchanges which made for a warm response from my cabin mates. I was offered food from the girls and the old couple insisted I have a coffee with them. Thus far I’ve found Russians to be really nice people once you break the ice which doesn’t take much.
Aside of the Russian filled 2nd class carriage I was traveling in there was an American/French couple in the First Class carriage who I befriended at the train station before boarding. I spent part of my time wandering back to First Class to engage in English conversation with the couple who now reside in Saigon, Vietnam. It was an interesting contrast which added to a variety of time spent staring out the window, interacting with Russians, napping, and consuming cheap weak Pilsner beer purchased from the ladies managing the carriage who had a little side snack business going.
The scenery along the Trans Siberian Railway has been nice in not a bit un-remarkable with hundreds of miles of Birch trees. Some of the stations are quite interesting but it’s only occasionally that I get enough time to actually get out and see much. Sometimes the train will make a 30 minute stop but it's never relaxed because the clock is ticking and your worst nightmare of getting left behind seems like a real possibility even though your wristwatch and train schedule says you have exactly 24 minutes.
My time in Yekaterinburg is brief but I’ve had a chance to walk around, visit the Europe/Asia boarder, a get a few chores done. The city itself is quite nice and there must be something in the air because wedding parties seem to be everywhere on this Friday afternoon.
Well, tomorrow it’s an overnight train to an ancient medieval village for a couple of nights then on to Moscow.
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