The ten hour bus ride from Litang to Kangding was very uncomfortable. The roads were rough and bumpy as we crossed over several passes well above 4,000 meters. The worst part were the surprise pot holes that lifted me off the seat and slammed me back onto my rear thus aggravating an already sore lower back. I began feeling a bit nauseous towards the end of the journey as we topped the last pass through thick fog and snow.
By time I arrived in Kangding I was feeling totally exhausted. Bus rides, foreign culture, cigarette smoke, unfamiliar places, nasty Chinese toilets, language difficulties, odd food, etc., etc., were all taking its toll. I call it cultural travel fatigue. Anyone who ventures within a foreign country for an extended length of time is bound to have a case of it. The cure? Go someplace for a few days that’s clean and comfortable, find a good place to stay, hang out with other westerners, and eat whatever western food you can. Also, plan to do nothing and avoid busses and public transportation. In 3 to 4 days you should be ready to go again.
Although I was feeling totally exhausted I boarded another bus the following day (yesterday) for Chengdu. When I arrived at the station to buy my ticket there was no one in line. The lady at the counter had minus zero patience and immediately grew quite angry with me as I fumbled through my phrase book to make sure I got on a bus with a toilet. I had been a little sick the night before so I wasn’t sure how I was going to do on the bus ride.
The whole ticket buying process probably took around 3 minutes and by time I left I think the lady was about to blow a gasket. As one traveler put it, “When you arrive in Kangding you will know your back in China”. I’d been spending quite a bit of time in Tibetan regions which are very different from the Han regions. Han Chinese make up the vast majority of Chinese culture.
It cost me 10 Yuan more to be on a nicer bus with a toilet. Also, I was shocked and overwhelmed with joy to see that the bus was non smoking. The driver still smoked but everyone else abided by the non smoking rule which was a miracle. In China I think just about every male smokes and does it as they please. The cigarettes they smoke are cheap and disgusting with second hand smoke that literally makes a non smoker want to puke. What’s really interesting though is that I have not seen one single woman smoke. I predict someday women will take over China as all of the men will die young and impotent.
The bus ride to Chengdu was nice and smooth. Aside of a short section of construction the roads were paved. Partway through the ride a nice young Chinese man sat next to me wanting to practice his English. The only drawback was his bad breath but I was able to find out what bus station I’d arrive at so I could accurately decipher my Lost Planet (Lonely Planet) guidebook.
As we rounded into the Bus Station at Chengdu I noticed a tourist information center like you might see in Europe. This is a rarity in China and the first one I’ve seen. Instead of roaming around the city looking for the right accommodation I decided to inquire first. I was happy to find a nice pleasant Chinese woman there who spoke some English. She happily made a couple of calls for me and in the end recommended a hotel right around the corner from the Bus Station. She said it was good and many foreigners stayed there.
I checked into a simple spotlessly clean single with air con and shared bathroom across the hall. The bathroom is super clean and on par with the finest western standards. All for the price 80 Yuan per night which converts to around $12.25. It’s very comfortable and I like it a lot. Right behind the hotel is a hostel that caters to westerners and has a café with a good variety of western food at backpacker prices. There’s also a pleasant common area for travelers to chill and hangout. So, I’ve got the comfort and quality of a nice hotel with the benefits of a backpacker hostel all in one. Perfect! Just what I need right now.
As for Chengdu it’s a world away from where I’ve been and I haven’t really been in city since Kunming. Chengdu represents the new China. Lots of well educated young professionals, modern conveniences, clean streets and sidewalks, etc. etc… Despite being the 5th largest city in China it seems pretty relaxed and has a good feel. I originally planned to skirt around Chengdu but right now I’m happy to spend 3 or 4 days here.
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