Train to Agra - The Taj Mahal

September 29, 2009…“Sometimes it’s hard to know who to trust in this country!” I yelled at the guy who had informed me I had to spend 250 more rupees to get into the Taj Mahal. It was when he said, “See, I told you” that set me off. He was right. He wasn’t trying to scam me. The hassles come on strong in Agra and I guess I had enough of getting it all day. I’m usually a very even tempered person who rarely loses his cool but India can push you to your limits regularly. I felt kind of bad about the incident as I walked in to view one of the most impressive structures I’ve ever seen. The Taj Mahal. It definitely lives up to all the hype. There’s a vibe about it.

I arrived in Agra via an overnight train from Allahabad. I first took a 3 hour bus from Varanassi to Allahabad then a train to Agra. Traveling India is a full on experience 24/7. As someone from the west it’s hard to know what to think about the people. My attitude is generally guarded and suspicious of anyone who tries to befriend me as having an ulterior motive. It’s kind of unfortunate because a lot of local people are just curious about foreigners and really just want to talk. Sometimes I think there’s a kind of fascination with foreigners. However, you do have to be careful and discriminating. The good thing is that Indians are not violent people. They’re not going to pull a knife or gun on you but they could trick you out of money, drug a drink, or put you in an uncomfortable situation. As a white foreigner I can’t help but stand out everywhere I go.

For the most part I think the Indian people are good people and sometimes as kind and helpful as can be. For example, I’m sitting on a bus that I know is due to go to Allahabad at some point. I’m just sitting on it when a guy who I’ve never seen hops on and says, “You need to take the other bus. It will leave first”. I checked out the other bus and sure enough it was just getting ready to leave for Allahabad. I chose to sit in front of him. He proved to be genuinely nice and wanted to know about my travels in India. We engaged in pleasant conversation. We talked about how great the Chai is in India is and enjoyed witnessing festivals that were going on in every village we passed through. When we arrived in Allahabad the bus did not drop us at the bus station next the railway station. It just dropped us on some street. I got off the bus and he said, “Here, take this rickshaw and pay the driver 15 rupees, enjoy your time in India!” He gave me a big smile and disappeared. The rickshaw took me straight to the railway station. I paid the driver 20.

I waited for the train in Allahabad in the upper class waiting room. The overhead lighting did not work except a few flickering florescent bulbs. The air conditioning was semi cool and it cost 2 rupees to use the acceptable toilet. Before entering the upper class waiting room I had to go through the bureaucracy of filling out a form. There seems to be a lot of that in India. I can’t imagine they do anything with all of the massive quantities of paper forms that are required for whatever.

I boarded the train at 11:30 and pretty much went straight to sleep. I was awoken a couple of times by people getting on and off talking as loud as they could. Social graces are not a strong point for India. I rose with the sun and sought out a window to watch the countryside. For miles, at regular intervals, I could see people squatting and defecating next to the railroad right of way. Side note. Never stand too close to a passing train in India. The train toilets do not have holding tanks. Everything just goes outside.

On arrival in Agra I went straight to the prepaid rickshaw stand. Just like Varanassi a guy was on me as soon as I got off the train. As I was paying my pre pay fare a fight broke out between a couple drivers. I had to move quickly to get out of the way as they tripped over a scooter. The police stood watching the incident and jsut laughed while it was going on. Other drivers broke up the fight.

Since I arrived early in Agra I took my time looking for a place to stay. After a tour of several hotels including one with an owner who tried to sell me hash I settled for a very nice clean place for about $18 USD. I was impressed that I was shown the kitchen as part of the tour. He boasted, “Very hygienic, we have refrigeration, a lot of places don’t have refrigeration”.

I spent the afternoon touring Agra Fort and very much enjoyed it. I waited until the evening to tour the Taj Mahal because I knew the evening light would be better. It was. The Taj is very impressive with its massive marble construction, graphic inlays and carvings. The grounds made up of gardens and reflection pools add to the atmosphere. The downside is the crowds but it really doesn’t detract all that much from the experience of being there. Although the Taj and Fort are must sees in India the city of Agra leaves a lot to be desired. One night here is enough for me.

Varanassi Cobra Charmer & People of India

Varanassi

September 27-28,2009. The moment I stepped of the train in Varanassi a guy was on me. “Hello, you need rickshaw?”. The touts and hassles come so much in India that I quickly adjusted to automatically saying no. This guy was hard to shake and said he was with the prepaid rickshaw stand and that he wasn't trying to cheat me etc. I still wasn’t buying it. I proceeded out the station and sure enough there was a prepaid stand. I found the man in charge of the stand and was convinced that he was the man in charge. The fee to get to where I wanted to go was 75 rupees which was very fair. The guy who met me at the train was still on me and I slowly began to think he might be telling me the truth when I realized there were a line of drivers waiting for work. By nabbing me in the station he was able to cut to the front of the line. I paid my prepay fee and remarkably he took me straight to where I wanted to go with no hassles or unecessary stops. At times it can be hard to tell when someone is telling you the truth or not in India.

Varanassi is one of India’s oldest cities whose history dates back to 1400 B.C.,. It’s most known for a series of bathing ghats that go on for several kilomters where the city meets the Ghanges River. People come to Varanasi to live, pray, and die.
I arrived at my hotel at 7:30 am and was able to check in right away which was nice. I dumped my pack and went striaght down to Assi Ghat where boats lined the Ganges and people happily bathed in the muddy holy water. It was there that I met a man with a snake. There were three clay pots before him and and I said, “Cobra?”. He enthusiastically said yes and took out two Cobras. He began playing with them and even the local people were scared. I took photos and several locals told me not to get too close. I don’t know if the Cobrs’s were defanged or not but it was pretty cool. Cobra’s are extremely poisnous. If you get bit you don’t have much of a chance surviving. After the Snake show I gave the man a few rupees.

My day in Varanassi proved to be very full. I wandered the streets and back alley ways and visited several Ghats. Around noon I met a couple from Sweden and a woman from England at the main Ghat. I suggested visiting the nearby village of Sarnath to see the remains of an old Buddist monestary and the actual place where Buddha gave his first sermon. We hired a Rickshaw and spent about two hours there before returning to Varanassi. Upon returning to Varanassi we headed into the old area and got lost on the narrow alley ways in search of a guest house with a rooftop restaurant that serves beer.

Varanassi appears to have a large Muslim population and I guess that’s why beer isn’t openly sold here. It’s all sold under the cuff and is sometimes referred to as happy Pepsi. We eventually found the guest house and climbed the steep stairs to a wonderful rooftop view of the Ghanges and ordered beer and food. Having been a bit off of the traveler/backpacker track it was nice to have the company of fellow westerners for the day.

After beer and food I wanted to check out the burning Ghat. It was not far below the restaurant. Many people come to the Holy City of Varanassi to die and the burning ghat is where they are cremated. It’s located not far below building that serves as a hospice. Bodies are carried down wrapped in ornate cloth. First the body is dipped into the Ghanges then the ornate cloth is taken off to reveal a plain white cloth. The body in it’s plain white cloth is then sat upon neatly stacked wood. More wood is stacked on top. Before the wood is lit, Ghee (clarified butter) and incense are dumped on top of the wood. Once the fire takes hold it takes about 3 hours for the body to burn. I witnessed all of this as a friendly man who works at the ghat explained what was happening. The final ashes are given to the Ghanges. About 100-150bodies a day are cremated at the burning ghat that I visited. It was one of the most interesting things I’ve witnessed in India. Although it was intense to view for the first time it didn't seem weird or strange to me. It actually seemed quite natural and although the process quite primitive it appeared to work quite well.

Varanassi is the first stop on a whirlwind segment for me. This evening I'll take a 3hour bus to Allahabad where I’ll catch a night train to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. After a night in Agra I’ll catch another night train to Udaipur where I plan to spend a few days.

Haridwar to Varanassi

September 26-27, 2009 - I boarded the train in Haridwar an hour late at around 9:30 am. I had come to find out that trains in India generally run late and I was already beginning to wonder if I’d make my connection in Delhi with only a 2 hour buffer. For this segment I chose to ride 2AC. It’s just one level below First AC which is the top class. Trains in India are very affordable if not down right cheap by western standards. When I boarded in Haridwar I was pleased to see that the train had plenty of open seats and I was able to chose a nice comfortable seat next to a window for an easy trip to Delhi.

Just a few kiometers from Delhi the train stopped. At this point I only had a little over an hour to catch my connection. The train would go for a few minutes then stop for 10 minutes. All the while the clock running. I did not want to stay another night in Delhi which has proven to be my least favorite place in India thus far. I think the hold up was train traffic and the engineer was waiting for an open platform. Luckily I made it in time and easily located the platform for my connection. The station was crazy with people pushing and shoving. The train to Varanassi was sold out and originating in Delhi which meant a large crowd was waiting to get on.

For my trip to Varanassi I chose a 2AC betth as I would be riding overnight and would not reach my destination until early morning. In India you have several different classes of train. The top classes have air conditioning and the lower classes have fans with open windows baricaded by bars. The lower non AC seats are very cheap but crowded and uncomfortable. Considering you can buy a nice 2 tier air conditioned berth on an overnight train for about $20 I see no reason not to take the more comfortable option. Even though I’m a budget traveler I don’t mind spending a little more and feel like I’m at the age where I don’t need to suffer as much.
Indian trains are not up to European standards but they’re not bad. Yes, they are kind of dirty and not all that well maintianed but they are perfectly acceptable. With a sleeper they give you a couple of clean sheets, a relatively clean blanket, and a fairly dirty pillow. You can make due pretty well with the sheets and with a little settling in you can actually sleep pretty good. A two tier berth shares a space with 4. There is a lower berth and a top berth. The lower berth serves as seating during the day then adjusts to a bed at night. On my way to Varanassi I shared my area with 3 other men that I’m fairly certain were Muslim. They spoke no English and were not particulary friendly but ok nonetheless. Actually, there were no other westerners on the train and only the conductor spoke a little basic English.

I sat at my lower tier berth and watched the scene outside. The 3 other men were packing a lot of stuff. When they started rearraning things I gave them a couple of thumbs up to signifiy that where they were putting things was ok. I found out the next day that giving a thumbs up in India is an insult. I guess that’s why they gave me a couple of thumbs up with a funny look on their face.

I slept reasonably ok but was awaken at times by people having loud conversations and or getting on or off. I arrived in Varanassi around 6:30 am..

Haridwar Walk

September 25, 2009 - I stared out a plate glass window like I were watching a television show. I observed people scurrying about as I sat in the air conditioned comfort of a nice restaurant in Haridwar. As I waited for my food auto rickshaws and horse drawn carts along with the odd car passed before me. Cows, dogs, and a neatly arranged vegatable cart intersect. Colorful signs advertise great things from dingy shops. The glass window blocks most of the noise.

After my meal I step out into the overcast heat and humidity and make my way through the streets. Noise and honking horns blend into a pounding clamour that I’m finally getting use to. A grossly deformed man appeared out of nowhere with face contorted and hands extended for anything I could offer. I said no and tried to pass to the right. He blocked my way. I tried to pass to the left and he blocked my way again. I quickly darted to the other side of the street to avoid being practically tackled. It was a sad sight to see someone suffering so bad from a disease that is unheard of in developed countries and likely very treatable.

I wandered further into Haridwar and chose to take a cable car up to a Hindu temple. I paid the fee after combating the pushing and shoving of a me first mentality while waiting in line. The ride up was nice but the temple was packed and grossly commercialized. I didn’t bother going in nor did I want to wait in a crazy long line to ride back. I chose to walk down a set of stairs. The stairs were lined with make shift shop after shop selling Bollywood musicals with blasting tv’s displaying available features. Not sure I get the Bollywood / Krishna connection but they were pushing it hard. Down past shop after shop until I ran into beggers. A little kid, dressed as the Hindu God Hanuaman, posed for a photo. I gave him a couple of rupees and he seemed like he could care less but the reason he was dressed up was to make money. I noticed a fatherly figure standing by. I guess that’s who he was working for.

Back into the streets of Haridwar and along the Ganges I walked brushing off people trying to sell me things and the occasional begger. Haridwar is said to be a very holy place. Apparently it’s one of the few places that the Hindu God Vishnu dropped some heavanly nectar. I continued further on until I came to the main attraction. A temple and Ghat on the far end of town where a nightly ritual takes place on the famed Ghanges river. People were swimming in the water and lighting candles sat upon flower arrangments meant to be sent down the river. I decided to stick around for the evening event.

It was there that I met 3 westerners from Belgium. When traveling in India you really recognize other westerners. Especially in areas where you don’t see many. The natural tendency is to gravitate to one another because the Indian culture is so foreign. The first two questions are, “Where are you from?” and “How long have you been in India”?. Nicolaus had been traveling with two women for awhile and I got the impression he just needed to hang out with a male and engage in man talk. We immediately hit if off and talked about cultural differences, the challenges of traveling India etc. His english is very good. Especially being Belgium. As we two westerners talked the touts came about every 30 seconds or so. Can you buy this? Can you donate to that? Can you just give me some money? Nontheless we were having a good talk and relating well. Finally the ritual started. Music was playing and something or other was going on but it didn’t seem like all that big of a deal. People were walking around with plates that contained something burning and some individuals were waving their hand at the flame as if a part of the ritual. Nicolaus and I were waiting for something significant to happen then it was over. We looked at each other and said, “That’s it?”.

Since we all needed to get to the other end of town Nicolaus negotiated a couple of bicycle rickshaws. The streets were packed with chaos as usual but the drivers manuevered well amidst it all. That was until we came to a roundabout with a statue of some Hindu god. The round about was completely jammed due to a back hoe blocking it. Horns, noise, and craziness all about. Nothing was moving. It then occurred to me that Nicolaus and I were engaged in a very intelligent conversation about politics and democracy. We were very attentive to one another and felt no need to be concerned about the gridlock mess. I think we did make a couple of comments about it but quickly continued conversing and stayed on topic. Neither one of us seemed irritated or anything… I think I'm adjusting well to India...

Special Thanks.... Rishikesk to Haridwar

September 25, 2009 – Well, I’m traveling on my own but not witout taking a moment to give special thanks to Neeraj and Ankur for all their help in getting me started on my travels in India. Neeraj’s help began when I first arrived and he and his brother in law picked me up at the Delhi airport. This was epecially helpful considering I’ve never been to India and I arrived at night. Neeraj’s sister and brother in law’s hospitaliy with meals and a place to stay my first two days made for a very easy start. It allowed me to shake some jet lag, adjust to the food etc. Ankur was the one who took care of all the details pertaining to our trip to the Himalaya which is certainly a hightlight. I’d also like to thank Ankur’s mother who fixed all of our meals while in Rishikesh. She kept us especially well fed…. All the while Neeraj has been a true friend looking out for my welfare and making sure I understand how things work in India. In a country with so many contrasts a traveler can get mixed impressions about the Indian people but Neeraj and Ankur, as well as their family, respresent some of the finest people you will ever meet.

Rishikesh to Haridwar - September 25, 2009 - As they say in the UK, “I’m on my Todd”. That’s an expression that means your on your own. Kind of ironic considering my name is Todd. Anyway, I said my goodbyes to Neeraj and Ankur after breakfast this morning. Neeraj and I will likely cross paths again for a day or two in the beginning of October but now it’s all up to me to deal with the details. The good thing is that I think I’m getting the hang of this India travel thing.

I left Rishiskesh today around noon for Haridwar. I took an auto rickshaw to the bus station which is basically a big open dirt area where buses park and asked around for which bus was going to Haridwar. When I got on it was almost full but I found a seat next to a middle aged man named Ganga. He was traveling with nothing but a wire carry rack that contained an assortment of foggy massage oil bottles. He pointed to a small painted sign on the rack that stated the rates or whatever. So much paint was chipped and worn that it was totally illegible. He was a very nice man and asked me where I was from.

The bus was standard 3rd world. Worn, dirty, and full of people. It was hot and humid and with no breeze I was soaked in sweat within a few minutes. Kind of like a prison hot box or something but everyone seemed to be ok with it and waited until the driver felt it was packed enough to go. Finally, the bus took off with all windows open and the driver exhibiting some of the finest horn honking skills I have seen in India thus far. The conductor came around and collected the 20 ruppee (40 cent fare) for the 1 hour trip.

Upon my arrival in Haridwar I took my time finding a Hotel and settled on a nice quiet place for approx. $12 USD. I also bought a train ticket to Delhi for tomorrow where I’ll immedaitely hop another train for Varanassi, India’s most holy city. I thought that I would have to take a bus to Delhi and wasn’t looking forward to it but I’ve discovered the wizardry of local booking agents. I easily secured a ticket on a train that I thought was unavailable. He just went to a site and made it happen. I was very happy to get the ticket but I felt a little ripped off by the extra added commission he alotted for himself. 88 ruppees! I then took a step back and converted it in my head. Oh, that’s about $2 USD. It’s funny, but what I’m discovering is that if your willing to spend a few extra dollars here and there it can make life traveling in India much more pleasant. As a budget traveler you do have to what it though because as we all know a dollar here and there can really add up.

Down From The Himalaya - Next Stop Haridwar

September 24, 2009 - I’m back in Rishiskesh after a nice trip to the Himalaya. Today’s bus trip back down the hills was exhausting. I sat cramped next to the window with my pack at my feet and a person to my right. The driver drove aggressively around the corners and stopped periodically to drop off or pick up people. I was mildly nauseous the entire 8 hour trip. Getting around India isn’t easy and spending time in the mountains adds an extra challenge. Having stayed at $8 USD a night accommodations for the last few nights I decided to step it and splurge on a very nice business class hotel at $30 USD for the night.

Every day I see something bizarre. Today I saw women walking with propane tanks on their head. I also saw a couple of Sadhus wearing nothing but mud smeared all over their body. Sadhus are wondering holy men in search of god. They denounce all worldly things in their search for the divine. I guess some even deny clothing. You see Sadhus frequently around India but I’ve never seen the kind like I saw today.
Tomorrow I’ll go the Haridwar for a day then make my way to Varanasi.

India Photos

Bananas and Peanuts for Dinner - It's Safe!

September 23, 2009 - Not much to the town of Chamoli. It’s just a stop on our way back to Rishikesh. We checked into Hotel Heaven for 400 rupees (approx $8.25) and I surveyed the area for a place to eat. The best option appeared to be the hotel restaurant. The seating area looked pretty good but the open air kitchen right next to a busy road with stray dogs eating scraps dampened my appetite. Although the kitchen looked relatively orderly the cooks and staff wore dirty clothes. I looked for another place but settled on a dinner of 2 bananas, packaged peanuts, and cookies. I wasn’t up for rolling the dice tonight. Staying healthy while traveling India can be a challenge. I’ve heard countless stories from other travelers whose tour of India included a stay or at least a visit to a hospital. I’ve visited other 3rd world and developing countries but the Indian culture in particular seems to have very poor hygienic standards. Anyone who has traveled here would agree. For example, I talked with one traveler who said while traveling Thailand he eats everything but while traveling India he’s extremely picky. So far, knock on wood, I’m doing ok and have been sticking to cooked vegetarian foods. I just have to resort to packaged snacks from time to time to get by on. When in the more developed or touristy areas the choices are much better and eating out isn’t too much of a problem.

Trekking In The Himalaya

September 21-22, 2009 – The Valley of Flowers and Hemkunt are located in the Indian Himalaya near the Chinese border and that’s where I’ve been trekking for the last two days. Needless to say it’s absolutely beautiful!

Neeraj, Ankur, and myself have been basing ourselves in the village of Ghangharia. It’s only reachable by foot or horse. It’s 8 miles from the nearest road. The village is situated around 10,500 feet within a lovely Himalayan mountain valley. It’s full of concrete brick buildings set up with rustic accommodation and restaurants for trekkers and pilgrims heading to Hemkut and the Valley of Flowers. The village is very interesting but nothing fancy. On both ends there are makeshift horse camps set up by Muslims who offer their services packing people and supplies up and down the trail. Parts of the village look relatively nice and clean while the far end is littered with garbage and horse manure. The valley itself is surrounded by steep cliffy mountains that rise thousands of feet overhead.

Almost everyone visiting Ghangharia is Sikh and from the Indian state of Punjab. The biggest attraction to the area is for Sikhs wishing to make a pilgrimage to the high alpine lake of Hemkut where one of their Gurus meditated. Ok, Here’s Sikhism is a nutshell. They have 10 or so gurus, also known as teachers, whose teachings make up their spiritual book not unlike the Bible. They believe in one God and the ultimate goal is to be a good person so they can be one with god. Sikhs are accepting of all religions. Some of their customs include wearing a turban and not cutting hair or beard. After living amidst a village of Sikhs for the last couple of days I must say they seem to be really good people. I feel very comfortable around them. I like taking a picture with them and them like taking a picture with me. Many know a little English and they are all curious as to where I’m from. I tell them I’m from USA, Texas.

Hemkunt is spectacular. Apparently the elevations is about 15,200 feet but I can’t seem to get that accurately confirmed. Hemkut consists of a high alpine lake set amidst steep rocky mountains with cliffs that continue to rise thousands of feet above. There is also a Temple and other buildings. On the hike up I was accompanied by many people hiking or riding horses. I started with Neeraj and Ankur but chose a little quicker pace so I trekked ahead. Traditionally Sikhs made the journey by horse and today many still do. I find it really interesting that all of the horse operators are Muslim and they’re helping Sikhs on a pilgrimage! That’s India for you. One of the finer points of Indian culture, tolerance. Horses passed frequently with clanging bells and mane decorated with colorful garlands. Although I’ve recently contracted a minor cold I felt no pain on the hike up. I stopped for photos and a quick chat with others on the path as I steadily climbed upwards. When I arrived at Hemkut it was cold with a cloudy mist drifting about the mountains. I continued further up a little ways off trail to get a view above it all. It seemed like hundreds were making the journey. In one building they were offering food and chai. In the Temple prayer was taking place. A loud speaker put out music and chanting. Some jumped into the lake for an ice cold swim. Although I felt welcome to participate I did not feel drawn to do so. I am not Sikh and I do not understand the real meaning of their pilgrimage. I felt more comfortable observing and enjoyed just watching what was going on. After about an hour and half I began a leisurely walk back down. Just as I started down I saw Neeraj and Ankur. They seemed to be having a good time.

The day before Hemkunt we spent our time hiking the Valley of Flowers. Although most all of the flowers were gone we greatly enjoyed sunny skies and peaks rising above 20,000 feet. Also, there were hardly any people and the trail is immaculate. Very clean, peaceful and quiet. It was a much needed hike for me….

How Did I Get Here?

September 20, 2009. How did I get here? It all started when I began drinking beer at a bar called Valhalla on the Rice University campus. It was there I met a Grad student from India. He happened to be going home to India around the same time I planned to go. His friend wanted to make a trip to the Himalaya. Neeraj asked if I was interested. Here I am. It’s amazing where beer drinking can take you sometimes…… I’m trekking in the Himalaya and just happen to be on a Sikh pilgrimage.

I’m currently in the village of Ghangharia situated a little over 10.000 feet and intend to visit a place that’s sacred to Sikhs. To get to Ghangharia it’s an hour by jeep from Joshimath to Govindghat where the trek starts. From there it’s an 8 mile mostly uphill hike. I didn’t realize the significance as a Sikh pilgrimage as I was more under the impression that the Valley of Flowers the big attraction. I was hoping to find a relatively quiet path to a sleepy village but it’s quite the contrary. The trail proved to be very busy. The only way to get to the village is my horse or foot and there were plenty of horses and people, Turban clad men chanted Satnam Whae Guru as they walked. Horses carrying people and supplies passed frequently going up and down the well maintained path. Very steep mountains rise on all sides for thousands of feet with the taller glacier clothed peaks in the distance. I walked with Neeraj and Ankur all the way up. We took our time with and stopped at makeshift tea houses along the way.

When we arrived in the village of Ghangharia it was bustling with Sikh pilgrims and places were filling up fast. I settled on a very basic hotel accommodation for $8.50 USD. It has a toilet, running water and electricity from 7pm to 10pm and 4:30am to 7am. Everything is pretty rudimentary but it works. Noise is a factor as I listen to Sikhs chat in Hindi and pots clang in the kitchen below while the generator roars out back but it doesn’t seem to bother me. Tomorrow I’ll hike up into the Valley of Flowers. A Himalayan mountain valley where mountains rise above 20.000 feet.

Culture Shock

September 20, 2009 – One week into my Indian Odyssey…. For a westerner traveling in India all I can say is,,,,, it’s Intense! One moment I’m loving it, the next moment I’m like, “Get me the Hell out of Here!” India is all about culture shock. The first week for me has been a roller coaster ride of feelings and emotions. I’ve seen beautiful things. I’ve seen ugly things. I’ve had good times. I’ve had bad times. All this goes without saying that I’m still adjusting and have only seen a small portion of India thus far. So, what do I think as of now?….

As I’ve said before India is a land of many contrasts. There is so much spiritual beauty, incredible history, interesting sites etc. etc. but there are also a lot of things that are not so pretty. Firstly, it’s very dirty everywhere by Western standards. Some places are better than others and if you’re willing to spend a little extra money you can get a pretty nice hotel room. That’s about the only way to escape it without heading up into the high Himalaya. India is by far the dirtiest place I’ve ever traveled and sometimes it can be hard to just find a little bit of clean space. You really have to be careful with food and water which is always an issue. Poverty is everywhere and at times heart wrenching. I’m really affected by the poverty and I don’t think I could ever get use to it. It’s everywhere and in your face. Anyone who thinks there’s poverty in America is sorely mistaken!!!! I know its all relative but imagine just one example. Families living under dirty tarps on a sidewalk next to busy streets in Delhi. Actually, you can find families living under dirty makeshift tarps and ramshackle corrugated tin homes just about everywhere with garbage all about not to mention human waste. The toilets on the streets of Delhi look as though they have never been cleaned once. Nobody uses toilet paper here. The left hand and a cup of water are just fine…Should I go on????.

Hassles, noise, and people everywhere make it very difficult to get around. If someone approaches you all friendly on the street, they can’t be trusted. Scams abound. There’s nothing easy about getting anywhere and I’ve had the good fortune of an Indian friend helping me out. It’s just difficult no matter what. The noise is constant in the villages and cities. It’s pounding. You can’t imagine it unless you’ve been here. Again, the extra money for a nice hotel room is your best chance for a little peace and quiet. Life is hard in India and everything is intense…
So, why am I here? I guess I just wanted the experience and let me tell you, I’m having one heck of an experience! That’s the attraction. Everything is so incredibly different. I mean, Everything! No need to fly off in a rocket ship for an out of this world experience. Just come to India. It will boggle the mind. I’ve barely begun to figure it out. Don’t get me wrong. There are many beautiful things to see in India. That’s why I’m here in the first place. It will be interesting to see what my take on things is after a couple of more weeks. I’m still culture shocked with a little over 4 weeks to go in this crazy challenge I’ve put upon myself… I think if you can travel on your own in India. You can travel anywhere. I‘m already thinking about that sleepy little village called Bangkok where I’ll be returning to when I complete my adventures in India…

Packs of Monkeys

September 19, 2009 - Packs of monkeys running along the road. Women in Saris stacking rocks upon their head for transport. Just a couple a couple of sights while on a hair raising 10+ hour bus ride from Rishikesh to Joshimath well into the Himalayan foothills. Not to mention, spectacular views.

On Friday Neeraj and I met up with his friend Ankur at the Delhi train station to begin our trip to the mountains for trek into the Valley of Flowers. From Delhi it was a 5 hour train to Haridwar then a short bus ride to Rishikesh where the plains, mountains, and Ganges converge. It’s also where Ankur’s mother lives and where the Beatles wrote much of the White Album when visiting the Maharishi..

The mountain valley is said to be home to over 300 varieties of flowers. Peak season is July and August but that’s also the time of the monsoon. The road frequently closes due to landslides and washouts so visiting during the peak season can be difficult. Our plan is to visit the Valley anyway as well as hike up to a Sikh temple known as Hemkut. Just being in the Himalaya is reason enough to go..
Our bus tickets cost 250 rupees a piece. A little over 5 dollars. We checked the bus first before buying tickets because we had heard that the drive up could be pretty exposed along steep mountain sides. We were satisfied with what we saw so we made arrangements for the 6am bus. When we arrived at 6am we were surprised to see that members of the Indian Army would be riding with us and a couple of them were carrying rifles. I asked them what they were doing and they said they were going to the mountains to do some trekking. The bus took off on time and it wasn’t long before we made way into the Himalayan foothills. Mountains by anyone else’s standard. Packs of monkeys ran alongside as we passed through a forested area. Up we climbed and the road turned to dirt and narrowed in a few sections that only allowed 2 or 3 feet from an airy edge. I quickly got use to it and noticed our driver was very attentive which helped put my mind at ease. Also, I’ve already surrendered to the fact that I’m in India. A little further down the way I noticed women nicely dressed in saris stacking rocks upon their head. We paused for a break and a village. Instead of just going into the bushes to relieve myself I sought out a toilet. It was western style urinal. Not a good idea. I quickly realized it wasn’t hooked up to anything and that I was pissing on my boots. Best to stick with the bushes or Indian squat toilets. Back on the bus and I spied more monkeys along the road. They’re pretty creepy. As we climbed further into the foothills the views became more and more impressive. After about 10 ½ hours we arrived in Josimoth and checked into a place for the night.

Delhi

After a relatively quiet stay in Greater Noida it was time to dive into the heart of Delhi. For my first couple of days in India I’ve had it quite easy thanks to the hospitality of Neeraj’s sister and brother in law. I am ever grateful for their generosity which included an airport pickup, a place to stay, and excellent home cooked traditional indian food. Not to mention, good company. It has made for an a easy start in a country that can be very difficult to travel.

Delhi is intense. So much going one everywhere. It’s total sitmulus overload. Although utterly overwhelming at first, its hard not to find it extremely fascinating. Neeraj and I arrived late morning via bus. We then took the metro to the New Delhi train station and sought out the area of Paharganj and Main Bazar for budget accomodation. We arrived at Main Bazar via bicycle rickshaw and made our way on foot throught the congested tightly packed streets lined with shops, vendors, and various modes of transportation pushing through the crowds of people. With the abundance of accomodation options we decided to check out a few before making a decision. A sikh hawker, hoping to make a commision, convinced us to allow him to show us a couple of hotels. It’s not ucommon to be approached by charcters like this and it’s usually ok to see what they have to offer. Just don’t fall for the hard sell if you don’t like a place. The two hotels he showed us were actually ok but one in particualar wasn’t very secure. We then shook of the sikh and referred to my Lonely Planet guidebook Eventually we found the right place. For a about $16 USD I have a reasonably clean room with air condition, private bathroom, and hot water shower. After sorting out accomodation we hit streets for the Red Fort.

The Red Fort was built in the mid 1600’s by Emperor Shah Jahan when Delhi was ruled by Mughals. The architecture is mostly muslim oriented but barrows some Hindu, Budhist and even Chinese characteristics. Neeraj hired a very nice older Indian gentleman who offered himself as a guide. He proved to be a good one. The actual fort covers a fairly large area that includes various buildings and large barracks built by the British during their rule of India. The original fort is comprised of sandstone and marble buildings accompaniend with gardens and reflection pools. The buildings still retain a large amount of beauty but everything is in a great deal of disrepair. All of the buildings seem to be a shell of what they once were. The gardens are no longer lavish and all of the reflection pools are empty. However, by walking amidst the grounds you can get a good idea of how grand it once was.
After touring the Fort Neeraj and I parted ways. He went off to meet friends for the evening but planned to join up with me the following day. After one more night in Delhi we'll catch an early train on Friday for Rishikesh to visit the lower Himalaya….

Delhi - Photos

Just Another Day - In The Land of Contrasts

Neeraj wanted to meet with a friend in the evening so we hopped on local bus. At first there was ample room but after a couple of stops the bus was packed. An attendant made his way about collecting the 10 rupee fare (20 cents). I observed the scene outside as best I could from my standing position. The streets were lined with vendors, cars, rickshaws, bikes, cows, garbage, fresh fruit, people everywhere, with lots of noise and weird smells. Passengers pushed and shoved getting on and off the bus. A young boy, about 10 years old, clothed in t shirt and dirty black pinstripped pants hung partway out the door. The view outsid everybit third world. In a nation that plays a large part in modern world economy you would hardly know it by obesrving the masses. That is, unless, you step into a shopping mall.

India is a crazy land of contrasts. Amidst a sea of people living in 3rd world conditions there are shopping malls just like the kind you find in America. Step into a mall and you might as well be in Iowa except everyone is Indian and ladies are clad in saris. There are bars, restaurants, and shops selling just about everything you would expect ot see in mall. Have dinner at TGI Fridays and follow it up with a ice cream cone. Don’t forget your Reebok shoes or latest and greatest electronic gadget before you leave. While Neeraj visited his friend I walked around and checked things out. It all seemed strangely out of place.

After time in the mall we stepped back outside into rush hour madness. Neeraj negotiated with a bicycle rickshaw to take us back to the bus stop. It was dark and about 7:30 pm. We got on the rickshaw and the driver peddled straight out into the middle of the busy road facing into traffic. As he peddled straight into traffic, headlights from oncoming cars reflected off thick the thick dust filling the air. Oddly, it seemed perfectly normal and neither Neeraj or I seemed concerned about it. Eventually he made his way over to the other side of the road and craftily negotiated a gridlocked section. A little ways further we were deposited at the bus stop. The bus stop was utter chaos. For a western traveler new to India it’s a downright impossible situation to figure out. Neeraj appeared to understand the system so we waited awhile. We eventaully gave up and decided an auto rickshaw was our best option. Neeraj neogoitated a good price and we were on our way. Of course the driver was’nt exactly sure where he was going but we figured it out that he didn’t know. With a few stops and shouts for directions we found our way back ok. Going to a from a mall has never been such an adventure. Incredibly interesting but exhausting. For everyone else? It was just another day...

India - I have Arrived

I dozed off about half way into my flight to Delhi when I was awoken by an agitated passenger a few seats ahead of me. I had noticed him and some people with his group taking full advantage of the free Scotch being offered by Mumbai based Jet Airways. He was standing facing another passenger and mouthing off loudly in Hindi. When the shoving started I was sure a fight was about to break out at 34,000 feet. Not a very settling prospect considering this was all taking place next to the emergency door exit. Obviously I wasn’t the only passenger getting nervous. At some point he left his seat and drunkenly ran to the back of the plane tripping over his feet while doing so. This made me even more nervous but no sooner had he run to he back of the plane that he returned to his seat and finally a flight attendant intervened. After about 20 minutes or so of Ghandi like behavior by the attendant the situation was brought under control. The drunk, previously agitated passenger, was then given another drink and the rest of the flight was fine with no more problems… As my friend Neeraj says,”Logic doesn't always work in India”.

Upon arriving in Delhi it was very nice to see my friend Neeraj waiting for me outside the baggage claim. He and his brother in law had driven in from the outlying city of Greater Noida. Neeraj is attending Rice University in Houston and I met him a couple of years ago through local running club events. I timed my current travel with his visit to see family back in India. I met Neeraj's brother in law, Amit, for the first time at the airport. We made our way back to his car and into Delhi we drove. In India there are lanes on the highway but driving in them is optional. When passing other vehicles it's considered a courteous gesture to honk like crazy just to let them know you are there. It's not odd to see something like Grandpas tractor in the midst of it all or a guy pushing his food cart seemingly nowhere along the busy highway. Amidst all of the chaos things seem to be working perfectly.

Into and out of Delhi we drove to Amit's home in Greater Noida. It's about 50 km from the center of Delhi and much more quieter than Delhi. Upon arrival at Amit's I met both of Neeraj's sisters and was served curry, chapti, and spice blended curd. All of this I washed down with tap water. I've been assured the water is properly treated by a home filtration system. I have faith it's working properly... I then went to sleep under a raging ceiling fan.

This morning I went for my first run in India after a cup of the best Chai I've ever had. Neeraj and I started at Amit's place and ran along a relatively quiet lane making sure to avoid auto rickshaw's and the like. We then ran past a lost donkey on a busy intersection and onward to other relatively quiet lanes. All the while taking in the atmosphere of a very different kind of place... India... I really think I'm going to like it...

Bangkok

“I’m sorry but the Temple is closed until 12:30. They are praying but there are other things you can see until it opens. I am an official. I can help. Do you have a map?” I pulled out my map and the seemingly sincere Bangkok local took out a marker and started writing all over it. “Have you heard of this? You need to visit…”. He spoke in a thick Thai accent but his English was relatively good as he kindly presented himself as someone who sincerely wanted to help. “It is too far to walk but I can get you an official Tuk Tuk.” A Tuk Tuk is a motorized open air taxi. Kind of like a cross between a three wheeled motorcycle and a golf cart. They are commonly available throughout Asia. The next thing I knew an official looking driver with name badge appeared ready for service. “For 50 bhat, about a $1.50, he can take you to all of these other places and bring you back at 12:30”. Oh, the 50 bhat scam I thought. I read about that in my guide book on the flight over. No thank you I replied. I then walked a mere 20 meters further and found the entrance to the Grand Palace and Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Of course, it was completely open. I later found out how the rest of the scam goes. You get a tour all right. A tour of various merchants that work in cooperation with the driver. The driver gets a kick back and by playing the numbers, the merchants make some sales. All of this is done with friendly, seemingly helpful, smiling faces. I’m not sure if you actually get to see much of the other tourist sights.

I’m currently in Bangkok for a 2 day layover before flying to Delhi, India. The first leg of my Journey was a 13 hour direct flight from Houston to Tokyo which proved to be easier than I thought it would. After a 4 hour layover I flew onward for another 6 hours or so to Bangkok. Going through customs and all was a breeze. I then sought out someone with a cell phone so I could notify the Hostel I'm staying at that I would soon be on my way for a 1am check in. I had success with a phone at a rental car stand. From there I proceeded to an official pay taxi and handed the driver a map and instructions in Thai as to where I was going. I reminded him to start the meter and made it to my location without a hitch.

Booking a budget accommodation, sight unseen, can be kind of a gamble but this time the gamble paid off well. For $18.50 I have a nice clean air conditioned room with bathroom down the hall. The location is quiet and the staff is very nice. A few minutes walk gets me to the Sky Train which allows good access to city.

Yesterday I walked around quite a bit and visited the Grand Palace, Temple of the Emerald Buddha, and Wat Pho with its very large reclining Golden Buddha… Considering my crazy jet lagged state I probably over did it a bit but the sights were quite impressive… Posted September 13, 2009. (Note-I've crossed the dateline and my posts are automatically mis-date by one day. Actual post date is one day later. I have yet to figure out how to fix it).

On My Way To The Other Side Of The World

I'm on my way to the other side of the world. This Blog is about to get a lot more interesting. I fly direct to Tokyo from Houston then on to Bangkok for a couple of days. From there I'll fly to Delhi for 5 weeks in India..... Leaving now....

Planning Continued - Leaving Soon

The planning process has been casual and smooth. I’ve pretty much got my gear together and have made necessary reservations etc.,. By the good fortune of having friends from India, who live in Houston, I was able to book my long distance Indian trains online without a hitch. Many thanks to Pradeep and Neeraj! In India booking a single train use to be an all day process but thanks to the internet it’s really quite easy. The problem with booking myself is that I don’t know the train stations, types of trains, etc. If you have someone help you that knows the system it’s a piece of cake otherwise it can can quite time consuming figuring it all out. A ride on a train can be anything from pure luxury to a totally unpleasant experience so having a reservation is important. Trains tend to book up to 6 weeks in advance. With a little extra money and time a person can book along the way, through a travel agent, but there’s still no guarantee you will get the desired train. I’ll be taking several trains and will be spending 4 nights aboard an AC sleeper at various stages. By western standards prices are extremely reasonable..

For the start of my trip I figured a month in India would be adequate but just yesterday I extended it by a week. A month would be too rushed. Places I’ll visit include the lower Himalaya, Agra, Varanassi, and Rajastan, before heading south and chilling out on the beaches of Goa. Five weeks should be suffice. From there I’ll head over Bangkok and plan the remaninder of my journey through S.E. Asia. After India I expect things to be considerably easier and I’ll travel predominately by bus with loose plans.

I must admit I’m feeling a little pre trip anxiety/excitement. I’ll be stepping a little out of my comfort zone at first but that’s what makes it an adventure. I know after a couple of weeks I’ll figure things out and feel more at ease experiencing the unknown on a daily basis. The great pitfall with short trips of 2 weeks or less is that you don’t really get a chance to settle in and adjust to the traveling/backpacker lifestyle. It takes time to adjust. Especially when visiting totally foreign environments. Heck, it takes at least a week to reset the body clock when you fly to the other side of the world.

In the meantime I’m working out the equipment details. What to take.. What not to take.. it’s kind of funny how I turn into an equipment freak right before a big trip. Otherwise, I could care less about gear…

I’m also putting together my medical kit. I’ll be carrying Doxycycline for anti malarial and Xifaxin in case I get a really bad GI infection. While talking to the pharmacist he said the one thing I’ll need for sure is Immodium. I’m hoping I won’t even need that. I also got a good tip. Somosas are almost always safe. It’s a deep fried pastry type of food that’s usually stuffed with potatoes and Vegtables. I imagine a person could travel all over India on bottled water and somosas!.. LOL!!