May 21, 2014
May 20, 2014
Jordan - Petra
I couldn’t
resist the two day trip to Jordon and Petra via the Abraham Hostel Tours in
Jerusalem. I’m generally not one for group excursions but sometimes it just
makes sense depending on what you want to do and what country you are traveling
in. At times border crossings, transportation issues, language difficulties,
cultural misunderstandings and the hassle factor can negate any chance of
saving money by doing it on your own. Everything can take considerably more
time to do. Jordon, considered safe, still poses some security risks in my
opinion.
So, I booked
the trip and showed up for the bus with about 30 others at 7 am. Our first
hurdle was the Israeli border into Jordon. As a group we were left up to own
devices, without a guide, to check out
of Israel. Only those departing the country are allowed into the immigration
building. There was a little confusion at first but we all figured it out and
made it through after a bit of time. Upon reaching the Jordanian side we were
met by a guide who led us through process. Three of us had been left off the
group manifest which created some issues but our guide took care of it. All in
all the he border process was kind of a lengthy hassle but not too bad. We
rolled into Jordan with guide, an armed policeman assigned to the group for the
whole time, and a very skilled bus driver.
From
Jerusalem we had crossed through the Palestinian West Bank into Jordon. The
first couple of border villages on the Jordanian side were poor, rough, and
third world dodgy. A pack of young school boys were walking down the street as
if they were going to block the bus. As we reached them they parted. Some
appeared to give a friendly wave while others spit and threw things at the bus and/or
displayed vulgar hand signals. Some of the kids were quite young which was
disturbing to say the least. My first impression of the people of Jordon was
not good. Fortunately, it was only at the border villages that I noticed such
behavior. The rest of the time the Jordanian people seemed fine. The Bedouin
tribes people I was to meet were exceptionally hospitable and friendly. Our guide
was very nice and professional.
t was a
long climb out of the Jordon valley which is 1300 feet below sea level. The
road is pretty decent but steep and narrow in sections. We ascended up through
olive groves interspersed with oak trees and open views. I found it to be really
beautiful country. Our first stop was Jerash and lunch before visiting the Roman ruins of Old Jerash with it’s Roman racetrack, arched gate, roads and amphitheaters. Our guide moved us through the fairly extensive complex at a nice pace. From there it was on to Amman, Jordan’s major city where we visited the Citadel which is an ancient Roman fort set atop a mount in the middle of it all. The views of the city are fantastic. With the day getting late we pressed on to Petra where stayed in tents at a Bedouin tourist camp. We arrived at the desert camp around 11 pm. It backed up to a rock face lit up by numerous lights. We were served Bedouin tea around a fire with traditional live music before a nice dinner. The camp atmosphere was very pleasant. It would have been nice to have arrived earlier to enjoy it more. Unfortunately we had lost quite a bit of time at the border which set us behind schedule.
The Crown
Jewel of Jordan is the Roman ruins of Petra and my main reason for wanting to
visit Jordan. Petra is a Roman city built into red sandstone cliffs. The
complex is suspected of being started could as early as 300 B.C. and consists
of numerous caves and impressive facades. One site in particular was used in an
Indiana Jones movie.
We got a nice
early start for Petra which gave us a good 6 hours to hike around. We were free
to take off on our own, as I did, or you could follow the guide. Most visitors
travel a little over a mile via foot, camel, horse, or cart to see the most
famous site, “The Treasury”, as seen in the Indians Jones Movie and a not much
further beyond. From where most turn around you can continue another mile or so
uphill to a site known as, “The Monastery”. Beyond that you can continue up a
little further to a couple of high points atop a ridge to get some spectacular
views. I’d say 6 hours is a minimum but a good amount of time to check things
out.
Petra
extends more or less through a red sandstone canyon with swaths of darker reds turned
brown along with swirls of gray that look like marble from a distance. Local Bedouin
tribe’s people set up rustic little coffee, tea, and souvenir shops all along
the way that adds to the atmosphere.
Petra is a
designated Unesco World Heritage Site which draws the tourist but it appears to
be managed well. Despite large numbers of visitors the place remains
spectacular and it really doesn’t detract from the experience too much if you
are willing to walk a little further than most. I enjoyed it greatly and
consider it to be one of the coolest sites I’ve been to.
From Petra
it was a long trip back to Jerusalem. Checking out of Jordon was pretty easy.
Getting back into Israel was a mess. First we passed through several
checkpoints and gates before reaching immigration. Two large busses with mostly
Arab Muslims, most who didn’t know how to stand in line, were challenging each
other for the only open window. Another bus showed up behind us. Eventually the
Israelis opened two more windows for a total of three. As I neared the window a
couple of guys butted right in front of
me and threw their passports on the counter I immediately spoke up and
the Immigration officer caught what was going on thus scolding them. A couple
of other guys walked up and did the same thing but I noticed they had official
looking Palestinian Territory passports. I sensed they were government
officials so I didn’t say anything. Eventually I made it to the counter and
thus began the questioning but not too bad.
From there
it was a security check. Poorly managed and understaffed, however, everything
looked like it was being checked. I had some problems getting passed the brash
guard but cooperated fully as we determined the metal lace loops on my boots
were setting off the metal detector. I then proceeded through 2 more passport
checks. One officer seemed genuinely interested in my travels with my colorful
passport stamps as he would like to do the same. Finally, out the door to a bus
that was waiting for us. Everyone made it through except for 3 who were being
detained. The bus left without them. Two being detained were a Canadian couple
with Pakistani Muslim last names. They were an extremely nice couple who I had
talked with earlier in the day. The husband is a prominent Oncologist from Toronto,
however, profiling as practiced by Israeli immigration, was not in their favor.
Our guide on the Israeli side said it was normal for some people in the group
to be detained at the crossing. We were all given transportation vouchers
beforehand just in case.
Eventually
we made it back to the Hostel after a jam packed 2 day blitz through Jordan.
With exit and entry taxes plus the price of the trip it wasn’t cheap but worth
every penny. It seemed like everyone felt the same, however, not sure I can
speak for those detained at the border.
May 17, 2014
Hezekiah's Tunnel - Jerusalem
I had no
idea that on May 16, 2014 I’d be walking through an underground tunnel in
Jerusalem built as an aqueduct sometime around the 6th or 7th
century B.C.,. When I bought my ticket for entry I didn’t really know what I
was getting into. However, getting my feet wet, literally, was totally worth it
for a 533 meter shuffle thru water and ancient darkness.
Hezekiah's
Tunnel was built to supply water to Jerusalem during a time when they were
worried about being attacked by the Assyrians. The Bible makes references and
historians form hypothesis but one thing is for sure, it’s ancient and
interesting.
At first the
tunnel is a little intimidating. Those visiting the City of David have an
option of passing through Hezekiah’s tunnel which is long and wet, or, a much
shorter Canaanite tunnel which is dry. The majority of tourist choose the
Canaanite option.
At the entry
point of the two tunnels I met up with a large German tour group that was
taking the Canaanite tunnel and a single American traveler looking for company
to go down the long Hezekiah’s tunnel. He only had one tiny flashlight and was
not only looking for company but a backup light source. I picked up a cheap key
ring led light for 5 shekels and we were on our way.
The deepest
water is at first step which is about thigh deep. From there it’s below the
knee. The tunnel varies in width and height but it’s pretty tight the whole way
and you have to walk hunched over most of the way as it snakes around. The
darkness is total without a light and those who suffer from any form of
claustrophobia might suffer an anxiety attack. Since we were the only two
passing through at the time I was happy to have the company and really got into
the marvel of it all. It was kind of like caving but without the Bats.
At the end
of the tunnel the water flows into an open pool where we saw some Hassidic Jews
washing in the water. The City of David is in an Arab section of Jerusalem. The
walk up a steep hill back to where we began looked a little third worldly.
Jerusalem is
an ancient City of converging contrasts. Old Jerusalem, although, old is not
really ancient. Much of the architecture is medieval and looks 11th
to 12th century on. Original buildings have decayed, burned, been destroyed,
and re-built over and over. The authentic ancient settlements are all buried
below what now exists. Buildings, Mosques, Churches, and Synagogues are
constructed in approximation of where they once were or where events may have
happened. Although there is no doubt the general geographical location is where
history took place I am more inclined to view historic locations as monuments
for what took place in the vicinity.
Jerusalem
definitely has a different vibe from Tel Aviv. Whereas Tel Aviv felt like a
European beach resort Jerusalem has an intensity that takes some getting use to.
It’s a converging point of Jewish, Arab Muslim, and Christian minority
functioning within a Jewish state. It’s also a melting pot of people who have immigrated
from all over the world due to faith based reasons. I find the Israeli’s to be
easy to get on with but the Arab’s are a little more edgy to deal with.
For the last
three days I have been staying with my friend Alon at his parents place in a
suburb of Jerusalem which is set upon a hillside with a fabulous view towards
Tel Aviv right next to the West Bank. His parents are returning tonight so I
will move to a hostel within the city of Jerusalem this afternoon. At this
point I am debating going to Jordon for a couple of days, mainly to see Petra.
With border fees, transportation etc I am inclined to sign on for a tour to
avoid hassle or any other potential problems.
May 15, 2014
Jerusalem
When passing through the fortress walls and onto the streets of Jerusalem it sort of reminded me of Las Vegas. In Vegas you have to walk past the slot machines and gambling tables to get to check in. In Jerusalem you have to walk narrow streets lined with tourist shops before arriving at the holy sites. Some shops are strongly aimed at selling fine quality made in China souvenirs while others shops in the less touristy areas are legitimate businesses offering anything from a haircut to house paint.
Old Jerusalem is divided into 4 quarters, Muslim, Christian, Jewish and Armenian. It all blends together to make it one of the, if not, holiest places in the world. As I rounded a corner into a plaza, not really sure of where I was, I sensed a very strong feeling. It kind of surprised me and made a quite an impression. I felt a strange emotional rush of sorts. I then got my bearings and realized I was at the Church of the Holy Sepulchure. The church is relatively understated for what it is compared to the grand cathedrals of Europe. In my general wing it fashion I really didn’t know much about it. As I walked in I was drawn to a shrine like tomb below a tall domed ceiling with a open center. It was then that I put it all together. I browsed my guidebook and asked a couple of question. I was standing directly on the spot that is believed to be the place where Jesus was crucified and rose again. It is also believed that his remains are on that very spot today, thus the tomb. You can call it truth, myth, legend, etc. but one thing is sure, beneath the veil of tourism something very powerful exists in ancient Jerusalem.
My trip from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem was a breeze. A few shekels and less than an hour got me to the central bus station. From the bus station I made my way to the prominent Crowne Plaza Hotel. Not to check in but to leave my pack with Aviad before roaming the streets for a few hours. Aviad is a bellman who is friends with a man named Alon who I met 3 years ago while traveling in China.
I met Alon in Chengdu as we were staying at the same place. He had finished his 3 years as a combat commander for the Israeli Army and was happy to get away from Gaza and Israel for a while. Before his travels he worked one year at the Crowne Plaza. While in China we shared good conversation over several breakfasts, coffees an beers and kept in touch through Facebook.
When Alon got off work he picked me up at the Crowne Plaza and made our way to a Suburb of Jerusalem to stay at his parents place with a stop at a bar on the way. If you want an accurate and in depth explanation on what the situation in Israel is, have a pint with Alon. For me the Middle East situation is kind of hard to wrap my head around. I live in a large very diverse city with a large minority population that no longer seems like a minority. Everyone mixes and everyone gets along.
In Israel you see Muslims and Jews mix well in places but then you have the issues with the West Bank and Gaza. Emotions run deep, issues are complex, and compromise with trust is very shaky. Within Israel, Palestinian communities who are willing to compromise and form good relations prosper as well as the rest of Israel. The government invests money in these kind of communities and will help build mosques etc.
In my opinion, with the brief time I've spent here, there seems to be a different mindset. Whereas the Jewish Israelis have more of a Western European approach to organization and government the Muslim factions may be a little more ideological and emotional towards making decisions. How is it that one culture, left unhindered to their own devices, prospers while another culture in similar circumstances struggles? Needless to say, leadership has to play a big role.
Today, I walked around Jerusalem and into Old Jerusalem down the road that is believed to be the path that Jesus dragged his cross. From there I spent the afternoon on the Mt. Of Olives. Oh, I almost forgot. I also spent time at the Western Wall....
May 13, 2014
Shalom From Tel Aviv!
Right about the time I’ve finished writing a post for today’s blog my computer crashed and threw it all away. The unfortunate thing is that it was one of those posts that flowed nicely and quickly. Why did the computer crash. Who knows? It’s frustrating to say the least. Yesterday’s challenges were greater though. I was locked out of my blog and the only way to get in was via a code sent to my cell phone packed away in a box back in Texas. Luckily my father was able to help me as I directed him via a Skype call. Needless to say my inspiration for a wit right now has been dampened due to technical difficulties.
I started my second day of Jet lag recovery with a run along the waterfront to the north. Yesterday I ran south to Yaffa. This was followed by a healthy lunch of lentil, couscous, and many veggies tossed before my eyes in a mix of olive oil and vinegar. It’s very easy to eat healthy in Israel. Middle East Mediterranean food sits well at a reasonable price.
I certainly picked a nice time to be in Tel Aviv. The weather is absolutely perfect and I’ve been drawn to spending most of my time on the beach. Tomorrow I plan to head up to Haifa but I could easily stay another night in Tel Aviv. I’ll see how I feel when the sun rises tomorrow.
Last night I wandered through some of the more trendy popular areas where bars were packed with a younger crowd even though it was a Monday night. Israeli's appear to be very social amongst one another. I suppose it’s the mandatory military service and unique situation is which they live. Most travel for a year or two after serving two years in the military. Military comes right after high school. In general they seem to have a pretty broad world view. Tonight I’ll join a group of local travelers at a bar via the website “Couchsurfing”. It’s kind of an underground social network for meeting and hosting like minded traveling folks..
May 12, 2014
Back In Action - First Stop - The Holy Land
3 flights, all delayed, and a missed connection put me in Tel Aviv 25+ hours after leaving Houston and the Lone Star State. It was one of the longer and more exhausting trips I’ve had overseas with a bumpy flight across the pond. I was originally supposed to fly Houston > Dallas > Newark > Tel Aviv but my plane out of Houston departed 2 hours late. Instead I flew Houston > Dallas > London > Tel Aviv. I arrived in Israel via EL AL airlines. It seemed appropriate to do so.
I always try and avoid late night arrivals in foreign countries but Tel Aviv proved to be a breeze. Immigration went surprisingly quick. It was getting on the EL AL flight in London through Israeli securtiy that took a long time. Luckily, my pack made it all the way and popped out of baggage claim fast. I had a room booked at a hostel and no other choice but a taxi. An honest taxi driver with a well regulated system insured I paid the fair fare. There’s a kiosk at the taxi stand that tells you how much to expect to pay.
I pre booked
a cheap single room in a hostel at a great location just steps from the beach.
Online reviews were very mixed. I wasn't too sure what I'd get. The room I originally shown to was very small with
no windows and a strong moldy smell. The woman working late night check in was
very nice and put me in a much better room at no extra charge when I asked if
there were another option. In the morning the manager said I could stay in the
room I was changed to for my three nights in Tel Aviv at no extra expense.
Needless to
say I was wired and tired with an 8 hour time change as I settled in well past
midnight. Sleep wasn’t very good but in the morning I started to take care of Jet Lag. I began the day with a run along the Tel
Aviv water front followed by a healthy lunch, swim in the sea, and a lounge on
the beach. The army guys with interesting looking guns, that I passed during my
run, and the occasional military aircraft flying overhead assured me all is
well in Israel. I feel perfectly comfortable here. Problem? What problem? I get
the impression that’s the spirit of hip and cosmopolitan Tel Aviv.
So, here I
am on another journey. The blog has been sparse but now I feel like I’m picking
up where I left off. It’s a feeling I get every time I return to traveling
internationally. My life at home and at work is so completely different from
when I’m out abroad.
Since the
last post I’ve spent my time in a self-imposed exile of extreme busyness. I
embraced an over focused mindset in full pursuit of the American dollar until I
reached a point of burnout. Asking myself, “What have I done, what have I been
doing, who what that is?” Kind of like an old Talking Heads Song.
The end
result is that I was able to save quite a few Shekels, relatively speaking of
course. I’ve accrued enough to allow me to follow my folly for awhile.
First stop
Tel Aviv, Israel. The Holy Land. December 31, 2013
11:15 AM - Denver International Airport
Traveling during busy holiday periods is a great time to cash in on overbooked flights. That’s what I am currently in the process of doing. I kind of approach it like a job. After clearing security I made my way to the gate desk and immediately volunteered, in exchange for compensation, to take a later flight. My flight from Denver to Houston was overbooked by 20 so today was a breeze. Fifteen minutes later I was issued a $300 voucher and a First Class ticket for a 1 pm flight. With a four hour wait I decided to use one of my complimentary United Club passes for a posh retreat away from the crowds. That is where I am currently taking advantage of the free wi-fi. If possible I might even see if I can get bumped off the 1 pm flight. There’s a chance. It’s a small plane. I figure the 2:45 Dreamliner 787 will have plenty of seats.
So, where have I been since my last post? That’s a very good question. Basically upon my return from Japan I jumped into a jungle of busyness playing the game trying to make a few dollars. Drowning oneself in excessive busy work is a wonderful way to kind of check out and justify doing so. As always my occupation is an unpredictable game with a few good hits and a lot of misses that leaves me doing ok but wishing I’d done better. Creatively I've been flat.
Aside of my 3 weeks in Japan 2013 has been a year of putting a lot of my own agenda on pause while tending to other matters such as my mother’s 6 month chemo treatment and some personal issues. In the end I feel like I’ve done the right thing and life is starting to even out again. My mother is doing remarkably better and is now cancer free which makes me feel more free to do as I please for the time being.
2013 was the hardest work year I’ve put in for awhile. I made four trips back and forth between Denver and Houston while splitting my work between the two cities. All things considered I juggled it well even though I made a lot of mistakes and missed many opportunities that couldn’t have been more obvious. The bottom line is that it’s a competitive world out there. Especially when you work for yourself. I wouldn’t consider the last year to be a bad per se but it wasn’t easy. It was a year of hard knocks that has left me feeling quite disoriented and disconnected from social circles etc. Looking back, most of it’s a blur and I feel very uncertain as to what my next move is.
So, where have I been since my last post? That’s a very good question. Basically upon my return from Japan I jumped into a jungle of busyness playing the game trying to make a few dollars. Drowning oneself in excessive busy work is a wonderful way to kind of check out and justify doing so. As always my occupation is an unpredictable game with a few good hits and a lot of misses that leaves me doing ok but wishing I’d done better. Creatively I've been flat.
Aside of my 3 weeks in Japan 2013 has been a year of putting a lot of my own agenda on pause while tending to other matters such as my mother’s 6 month chemo treatment and some personal issues. In the end I feel like I’ve done the right thing and life is starting to even out again. My mother is doing remarkably better and is now cancer free which makes me feel more free to do as I please for the time being.
2013 was the hardest work year I’ve put in for awhile. I made four trips back and forth between Denver and Houston while splitting my work between the two cities. All things considered I juggled it well even though I made a lot of mistakes and missed many opportunities that couldn’t have been more obvious. The bottom line is that it’s a competitive world out there. Especially when you work for yourself. I wouldn’t consider the last year to be a bad per se but it wasn’t easy. It was a year of hard knocks that has left me feeling quite disoriented and disconnected from social circles etc. Looking back, most of it’s a blur and I feel very uncertain as to what my next move is.
September 24, 2013
My Final Day In Japan - A Camino Amigo
My final day in Japan proved to one of the best but now I am back in Houston with a wacky case of jet lag. Three weeks of doing what I love to do followed by a long trip home to what I am tired of doing has me wired, yet inspired, to make a move. It’s time to follow through with intentions I’ve been intending to tend do for a while.
My flight departed Tokyo at 4 pm on September 18 and I arrived home in Houston at 2 pm the same day, September 18. But that was after almost 20 hours of traveling starting with a bullet train from Kyoto. Flying east over the date line is always a little amusing.
Last Saturday night I met up with friends in the evening which translated to morning, Tokyo time, and felt wonderfully wide awake until 4 am. I slept until 2 pm which is bizarre for me and had a cheeseburger and fries for breakfast. But wasn’t it just last Wednesday that I enjoyed a full on Japanese feast? The past remembered often times seems like a dream. Now, where was I?
Tsumura is a super fit Japanese gentleman in his 70’s who I met while walking across Spain 5 years ago on the Camino de Santiago. A Camino Amigo. He spent his working life in the Export business with a number of years in the USA and South America. In the early 1970’s he worked out of an office at the World Trade Center in New York. Now he likes to go on long walks. Since the Camino we have kept in touch via Facebook. I let him know I was traveling Japan and we made plans to meet at 8 am sharp on my final day in Kyoto.
First stop was the Imperial Palace offices to try and secure passage to a couple of places that you can only see via a tour that's usually hard to get on. As it turns out it’s oddly easier for tourists so Tsumura was happy when we just happened to luck out and get permission to visit two locations including a villa he had never been to. Naturally, palace officials didn’t want to stay in one place all day. They needed a different environment to rest in the afternoon, have tea, or watch the moon.
With passes in hand, and a plan, he phoned up his friend Mary who happened to be free for the day and opted to be our chauffer. First stop, Shugakuin Imperial Villa. A lovely peaceful place with tatami floored tea houses, pond, streams, and gardens on the outskirts of Kyoto. From there it was on to Mt Kurama for a short vigorous hike up to some temples. Mary had prepared lunch for use so we ate on the go. After Kurama we cruised over to Katsura Imperial Villa with summer home for observing moon and more tatami floor tea rooms amidst gardens. But before that it was shaved ice flavored with green tea syrup and some kind of sweet bean something or other on top. When we were done with that tour we took a train back towards Mary’s and added some extra walking by not taking the subway.
I was sure Tsumura would be getting tired by that time but he wasn’t. “No problem, I’m good, I can keep going”. He suggested we get some beer and wine and drop by Mary’s for tea.
We were both very surprised to find a full on Japanese traditional spread of all kinds of food very nicely set out for us when we arrived at Mary’s. I felt kind of grungy in my old blue travel shirt (that I have vowed to burn this week) and flat hat head hair but we were very graciously welcomed.
Beer and wine flowed. I ate anything and everything because in Japan it’s safe to do so. Cooked fish, raw fish, little fish with heads, some kind specially prepared boney fish that wasn’t boney at all. Little salad mixed things and such. Beer and wine flowed. The food was amazing. Fresh Kobe beef cooked on skillet. My only slight hang up was Kobe beef, after its cooked, is traditionally dipped in raw egg before eaten. With no hesitation I dove in. It was good but a little too rich so after about half of the egg I went eggless.
Tsumura and I were in awe and greatly enjoying a marvelous feast. Conversation flowed nicely and as usual topics of politics and foreign relations come up when people from different countries gather amidst food and drink. Usually it’s in a good way. Sometimes I think world leaders should spend more time in casual conversation over food and drink. We talked about my visit to Hiroshima and I found out that many Japanese would like for Obama to visit the city. Japan today is a million miles away from the war and I sensed no animosity towards Americans whatsoever while traveling the country. Laughter and good conversation amidst a fabulous array of food made for the perfect ending of a Triple A+ day in Japan.
Mary closed out the evening with a piece by Schubert and Mozart on a beautiful Steinway Grand Piano. Tsumura had informed me that Mary was part of a prominent Kyoto family. Her contemporary yet traditional apartment was very classy and everything was top notch. I couldn't be more grateful for Mary's and Tsumura's hospitality.
Ironically my accommodation was only a 10 minute walk from Mary’s. Tsumura and I parted ways at the subway. What a great day! If you travel in Japan don't turn down Japanese hospitality .
My flight departed Tokyo at 4 pm on September 18 and I arrived home in Houston at 2 pm the same day, September 18. But that was after almost 20 hours of traveling starting with a bullet train from Kyoto. Flying east over the date line is always a little amusing.
Last Saturday night I met up with friends in the evening which translated to morning, Tokyo time, and felt wonderfully wide awake until 4 am. I slept until 2 pm which is bizarre for me and had a cheeseburger and fries for breakfast. But wasn’t it just last Wednesday that I enjoyed a full on Japanese feast? The past remembered often times seems like a dream. Now, where was I?
Tsumura is a super fit Japanese gentleman in his 70’s who I met while walking across Spain 5 years ago on the Camino de Santiago. A Camino Amigo. He spent his working life in the Export business with a number of years in the USA and South America. In the early 1970’s he worked out of an office at the World Trade Center in New York. Now he likes to go on long walks. Since the Camino we have kept in touch via Facebook. I let him know I was traveling Japan and we made plans to meet at 8 am sharp on my final day in Kyoto.
First stop was the Imperial Palace offices to try and secure passage to a couple of places that you can only see via a tour that's usually hard to get on. As it turns out it’s oddly easier for tourists so Tsumura was happy when we just happened to luck out and get permission to visit two locations including a villa he had never been to. Naturally, palace officials didn’t want to stay in one place all day. They needed a different environment to rest in the afternoon, have tea, or watch the moon.
With passes in hand, and a plan, he phoned up his friend Mary who happened to be free for the day and opted to be our chauffer. First stop, Shugakuin Imperial Villa. A lovely peaceful place with tatami floored tea houses, pond, streams, and gardens on the outskirts of Kyoto. From there it was on to Mt Kurama for a short vigorous hike up to some temples. Mary had prepared lunch for use so we ate on the go. After Kurama we cruised over to Katsura Imperial Villa with summer home for observing moon and more tatami floor tea rooms amidst gardens. But before that it was shaved ice flavored with green tea syrup and some kind of sweet bean something or other on top. When we were done with that tour we took a train back towards Mary’s and added some extra walking by not taking the subway.
I was sure Tsumura would be getting tired by that time but he wasn’t. “No problem, I’m good, I can keep going”. He suggested we get some beer and wine and drop by Mary’s for tea.
We were both very surprised to find a full on Japanese traditional spread of all kinds of food very nicely set out for us when we arrived at Mary’s. I felt kind of grungy in my old blue travel shirt (that I have vowed to burn this week) and flat hat head hair but we were very graciously welcomed.
Beer and wine flowed. I ate anything and everything because in Japan it’s safe to do so. Cooked fish, raw fish, little fish with heads, some kind specially prepared boney fish that wasn’t boney at all. Little salad mixed things and such. Beer and wine flowed. The food was amazing. Fresh Kobe beef cooked on skillet. My only slight hang up was Kobe beef, after its cooked, is traditionally dipped in raw egg before eaten. With no hesitation I dove in. It was good but a little too rich so after about half of the egg I went eggless.
Tsumura and I were in awe and greatly enjoying a marvelous feast. Conversation flowed nicely and as usual topics of politics and foreign relations come up when people from different countries gather amidst food and drink. Usually it’s in a good way. Sometimes I think world leaders should spend more time in casual conversation over food and drink. We talked about my visit to Hiroshima and I found out that many Japanese would like for Obama to visit the city. Japan today is a million miles away from the war and I sensed no animosity towards Americans whatsoever while traveling the country. Laughter and good conversation amidst a fabulous array of food made for the perfect ending of a Triple A+ day in Japan.
Mary closed out the evening with a piece by Schubert and Mozart on a beautiful Steinway Grand Piano. Tsumura had informed me that Mary was part of a prominent Kyoto family. Her contemporary yet traditional apartment was very classy and everything was top notch. I couldn't be more grateful for Mary's and Tsumura's hospitality.
Ironically my accommodation was only a 10 minute walk from Mary’s. Tsumura and I parted ways at the subway. What a great day! If you travel in Japan don't turn down Japanese hospitality .
September 16, 2013
Kyoto & Nara
A typhoon passed over Kyoto last night bringing heavy rains. The rattling of the windows to my room kind of kept me up through the night but it did not keep me from getting a good start on the day today. The rivers might be nearing the tops of their levees but the train was running. I had to go to Nara to see the giant Buddha.
Kennin-ji, the oldest Zen Temple in Kyoto, followed by Kiyomizudera as I biked around the city made for a good first day on Saturday. In the evening I pedaled through the entertainment district around Kwaramachi with restaurants and bars packed into narrow streets and tight alleys. People were flooding in.
I stopped at British themed pub with a lively crowd of young Japanese with a few foreigners and ex-pats mixed in. It made for good people watching. One employee working the opened door entry gleefully shouted a greeting alerting the attentive staff whenever someone walked in. Guys with dolled up dates, two young backpacker girls in flip flops, trendy hipsters, a strange man with tight stripped shorts and young guy friend, an overzealous American in conversation with a coolly articulate Brit. Uncomfortable singles sat head bent over the comfort of smart phone sending out meaningless texts but most of all everything was very Japanese was British motif for fun.
The Guinness isn’t cheap but they now how to pour. Order at the bar and they give you a numbered card with tall metal stand for your table like your ordering a pizza. It’s delivered when they are done properly pouring it. In Japan tipping at bars is not expected but you still get the best service you’re going to find anywhere.
Sunday found me walking around as an umbrella toting tourist visiting Nijo Castle which was quite good. From there it was off to Tenryuji Temple which wasn’t overly impressive to me. I paid 500 Yen and followed a crowd like I was at a circus side show to see the Tenryu-ji Cloud Dragon. It’s a painted mural covering a ceiling. Although the painting was good I was little disappointed to find out the original was long gone and what I was looking at was painted in 1997. However, the way the Dragon’s eyes follow you around the room like they are always staring directly at you makes it kind of novel. Like a sideshow. By time I got back to my accommodation in the evening the rain really started to pound so I kicked back and took it easy.
If you hit the trains right it only takes about an hour to get to Nara from where I am staying. This morning I hit it wrong and it took almost two hours. Once there, a good three mile walking loop starting at the station will take you past about everything you want to see. The big draw to Nara for me was Todai-Ji Temple with its giant Buddha and I was not disappointed. The temple with its entrance is quite impressive. It stands over a 150 feet high with a width of over 185 feet. It’s all constructed out of heavy thick hewn wood. It was constructed in 1709 and is a rebuilt version of the original that was considerably larger. It houses a Buddha that sits almost 50 feet tall. However, I was most impressed by the building and its architecture. Every now and then I’ll visit a place that at first site gives the senses a bit of a jolt and really grabs me. Todai-ji does it for me. It’s the best I’ve seen thus far in Japan.
Tomorrow will be an interesting day. I’ll be meeting up with an older Japanese gentleman who I met 5 years while walking the Camino de Santiago across Spain and have kept in touch with via Facebook. He lives not far from Kyoto and we are meeting at 8 am. He’s got some good ideas in store so it will be interesting to see what we wind up seeing. Most of all it will be great to catch up with a Camino Amigo.
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