Jerusalem

When passing through the fortress walls and onto the streets of Jerusalem it sort of reminded me of Las Vegas. In Vegas you have to walk past the slot machines and gambling tables to get to check in. In Jerusalem you have to walk narrow streets lined with tourist shops before arriving at the holy sites. Some shops are strongly aimed at selling fine quality made in China souvenirs while others shops in the less touristy areas are legitimate businesses offering anything from a haircut to house paint.

Old Jerusalem is divided into 4 quarters, Muslim, Christian, Jewish and Armenian. It all blends together to make it one of the, if not, holiest places in the world. As I rounded a corner into a plaza, not really sure of where I was, I sensed a very strong feeling. It kind of surprised me and made a quite an impression. I felt a strange emotional rush of sorts. I then got my bearings and realized I was at the Church of the Holy Sepulchure. The church is relatively understated for what it is compared to the grand cathedrals of Europe.  In my general wing it fashion I really didn’t know much about it. As I walked in I was drawn to a shrine like tomb below a tall domed ceiling with a open center. It was then that I put it all together. I browsed my guidebook and asked a couple of question. I was standing directly on the spot that is believed to be the place where Jesus was crucified and rose again. It is also believed that his remains are on that very spot today, thus the tomb. You can call it truth, myth, legend, etc. but one thing is sure, beneath the veil of tourism something very powerful exists in ancient Jerusalem.

My trip from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem was a breeze. A few shekels and less than an hour got me to the central bus station. From the bus station I made my way to the prominent Crowne Plaza Hotel. Not to check in but to leave my pack with Aviad before roaming the streets for a few hours. Aviad is a bellman who is friends with a man named Alon who I met 3 years ago while traveling in China.

I met Alon in Chengdu as we were staying at the same place. He had finished his 3 years as a combat commander for the Israeli Army and was happy to get away from Gaza and Israel for a while. Before his travels he worked one year at the Crowne Plaza. While in China we shared good conversation over several breakfasts, coffees an beers and kept in touch through Facebook.

When Alon got off work he picked me up at the Crowne Plaza and made our way to a Suburb of Jerusalem to stay at his parents place with a stop at a bar on the way. If you want an accurate and in depth explanation on what the situation in Israel is, have a pint with Alon. For me the Middle East situation is kind of hard to wrap my head around. I live in a large very diverse city with a large minority population that no longer seems like a minority. Everyone mixes and everyone gets along.

In Israel you see Muslims and Jews mix well in places but then you have the issues with the West Bank and Gaza. Emotions run deep, issues are complex, and compromise with trust is very shaky. Within Israel, Palestinian communities who are willing to compromise and form good relations prosper as well as the rest of Israel. The government invests money in these kind of communities and will help build mosques etc.

In my opinion, with the brief time I've spent here, there seems to be a different mindset. Whereas the Jewish Israelis have more of a Western European approach to organization and government the Muslim factions may be a little more ideological and emotional towards making decisions. How is it that one culture, left unhindered to their own devices, prospers while another culture in similar circumstances struggles? Needless to say, leadership has to play a big role.

Today, I walked around Jerusalem and into Old Jerusalem down the road that is believed to be the path that Jesus dragged his cross. From there I spent the afternoon on the Mt. Of Olives. Oh, I almost forgot. I also spent time at the Western Wall....