Stewart Island Crossing

As one backpacker put it, “The boat ride was worth the trip”! Wind gusts up to 45 knots and seas up to 5 meters is very rough sailing but the captain grew up on Foveaux Strait and was obviously more than qualified. The boat, a catamaran measuring 20 meters, was designed to handle such conditions as long as the driver knows what they are doing. The crossing from Bluff on the South Island to Stewart Island takes an hour. Today it was the roughest and most exciting ferry crossing I have ever experienced. No problem with seasickness but I think a little adrenaline may have helped to stave it off. The morning started out clear but the winds were strong. Shortly after leaving the dock at Bluff a squall blew in which intensified already rough conditions.

Stewart Island is mostly national park consisting of temperate rain forest and coastline with beaches. It’s not a place you want to swim as the water is cold, the currents unpredictable, and the world’s third largest community of Great White sharks swim the waters.

The Island gets plenty of rain and lately the weather has been particularly filthy. There is a nice network of hiking trails but current conditions allow for mud up to the waist. Aside of weather and poor trail conditions there are logistical issues with planning a hike. Will and I took the afternoon to sort it out and make a decision. We also checked out accommodation options and chose to camp despite continuing strong winds because the sun came out for awhile. Fortunately, if the weather reports are correct, the next few days should be considerably better.

The plan as of now is to take a water taxi during high tide up to access a section of trail where we can hike to the other side of the Island, camp a couple of days, then retrace our steps to have a water taxi shuttle us out. It allows for 4 nights to either camp or stay in a hut and 3 days to explore, hike, and seek out an elusive Kiwi in the wild. Apparently there are Kiwis all over the Island but they generally come out at night and are not always that easy to spot. We are set to go tomorrow but it depends on the waters being calm enough for the water taxi.

Bluff

The Bluff lodge in Bluff, New Zealand reminds me of what New Zealand was like in 1989. For one it is not full. There’s just a few backpackers coming from or going to Stuart Island as the ferry port is right across the street. It's got plenty of character with an especially friendly owner. It has an odd layout, an unusual use of space, and makeshift remodeling to make it somewhat like hotel. The building was constructed in 1899 and is located on the main road. It once served as a post office. The Victorian painted brick and mortar architecture of the lodge is similar to something you might see in the American West.

Yesterday it was windy and rainy as Will and I rolled down southeast coast backroads. We stopped in the city of Dunedin for a walk in the rain and a venison burger at Velvet burger. We then drove on and stumbled across the lost gypsy which consisted of all kinds of contraptions created by an eccentric artist. Small items were displayed in an old bus while larger items filled a park. A small fixed trailer café served up coffee and foods by a very friendly Thai lady with knack for getting people to spend money.

As evening approached we inquired at a couple of places for accommodation but everything was booked. We kept going until we arrived near the southernmost point of the South Island and a backpacker hostel to find it full despite it’s fairly remote location. With cold rain wind we really did not want to camp.

Right next to the hostel we saw a sign advertising a place to stay at a house. I knocked on the door and a really friendly big guy that looked like a biker answered. I then noticed his pit bull in the yard. I asked if he had an accommodation. He looked up as to think for a moment then replied yes and told me to meet him at the side door. Attached to his home was a two bedroom apartment. One room had two beds. It also had a nice big bathroom and a small basic kitchen space. It was obviously set up as a vacation rental. I asked how much and he said $50 NZD which is about $34 USD. Will said we would take it. The owner said he just needed to freshen up the place a bit and went to the bathroom to collect used towels on the floor. I paid and we stayed.

It was kind of a funny deal but it was nice and clean enough with horrible weather taken into consideration. We suspected the rental was something that may have been managed by the wife but we never saw a wife. After dinner we watched a couple of DVD’s. I didn't sleep well, which seems to be the norm these days, and Will's sporadic snoring didn't help.

Will speaks very good English with a thick French accent and has fairly typical look for someone from the South of France with average height, dark hair, slim build and sculpted facial features. Naturally he drinks coffee and smokes the occasional cigarette. We have talked so much that I am starting to think with a French accent, if that makes sense. There’s not too much discussion on the topic as to where we are going and what we are doing because that might get in the way of what can happen.

Tomorrow we will take the ferry over to Stuart Island. Will was in the French Navy for ten years and the topic of discussion this evening was seasickness. It takes an hour to cross the channel to Stuart Island and the water is very rough right now. It will be interesting to see how I fare. I am still managing the Meniere’s ok with no vertigo but my right ear is feeling a little full which isn’t a good sign. The upside is that I will be going to one of the best places to see an elusive Kiwi of the bird kind.

Further South - Doing Ok

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wednesday evening finds me at a farm campground just outside of Kakanui. I left the cool and funky Hunuku farm camp located on the Banks Peninsula near Akaroa with a 45 year old Frenchman who was also camped there. The previous day I hiked a nice loop from the farm up a ridge touching low cloud then down along hillside traversing above the bay to a palm filled gully. Despite clouds and a little light rain it was a very nice hike.

Will left France a little over 4 years ago to partner with a relative living in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Together they opened a French bakery that was wildly successful. He worked every day for four years and was able to save a half million dollars. He was amazed by how much work there is in America and how well you can do if you work hard. He commented, “If America wants to be like Europe they are in for a big surprise!” Needless to say he had a great American experience and one he will likely return to. Naturally, after working every day for four years he needed a break so he’s traveling for an undetermined amount of time with little or no plan.

Will bought a Honda car for $2000 NZD and it seems to run fine. Yesterday we took a long scenic back road out of Banks Peninsula and stopped at a bay along the way just to hang out for awhile. By late afternoon we found a campground by the beach near Christchurch. This morning I ran along the shore just as the tide started to retreat allowing for firmer sand and good footing.

Plain oatmeal, pasta, veggies, no caffeine and no alcohol seems to be working at keeping my vertigo under control. I cheat a bit with a meat pie or slice of carrot cake from bakery but am doing ok. Sleep has been hit and miss but mostly not too good. Knock on wood I’m doing ok.

Will and I are on the same page for the most part so I expect we will travel together for a few days. Neither one of us seems to be in any kind of rush nor do we see any reason to plan too much or book ahead for anything. As it looks now we are on our way to Stuart Island off the bottom of the South Island. It’s a place where you have a good chance of seeing an elusive Kiwi.

The photos in this post are from my walks from the farm on Banks Peninsula.

Akaroa

It’s hard to go just about anywhere in New Zealand without seeing someone with a backpack. The country has turned into a major backpacker destination. Getting around is easy, the scenery is stunning everywhere and people are extremely nice. It’s probably about the safest place in the world for a single woman to travel alone and many do. However, it’s not particularly inexpensive. For me, it’s reasonable in part due to the US dollar’s strength against the New Zealand dollar. Also, needless to say I travel like a budget traveler.

Things have really changed since I visited the country in 1989, before the internet. There was a good mix of travelers but at a fraction of what you see now. I never had trouble finding a bunk in a hostel and nowhere seemed particularly crowded. Now, everything can fill up by 11 am and booking ahead is often necessary to insure a place to stay. Campgrounds can get packed but a single person with a small tent can always find something.

There are sooooo many Germans traveling New Zealand that a couple of times I’ve had to remind myself I’m in an English speaking country. There are lots of French as well. A French woman told me the reason so many Germans travel is because Germans don’t like Germany. A lot of Europeans, especially the younger ones, are gone for months at a time. It’s rare to see a middle aged American backpacking the way I do but there are Americans here and there. Usually they are a little older, traveling in groups or tours, staying at nicer hotels, and in the country for a short period of time.

I left Christchurch this morning after 4 nights. My room, that I had as a single, was with two beds. I wound up sharing my room late yesterday evening. A guy by the name of Claudia from Bologna, Italy showed up at the hostel at 8:30 Pm. All of Christchurch was booked and he had just arrived after a 44 hour trip to work at a winery for two months. I happened to be in the hostel office when he arrived and he hadn’t booked anything beforehand. He was relieved when I offered. Not only was he grateful but very nice as well.

This morning I took a bus to Akaroa on the Bank Peninsula east of Christchurch. From there I arranged for a pickup by the farm hostel I am camping at. It’s a funky place with a bit of a leftover hippy vibe and there are a number of choices for accommodation. There’s a main house with proper hostel set up and walk in campground,  with a a few buildings with bunks, commons areas, tent sites, and tent like buildings with clear windows above the bed for stargazing. From the hostel there are hiking trails and a rocky beach below. The area is absolutely beautiful but it does have a bit of an isolated feel despite plenty of other guests. I’m not sure I care for the feeling of isolation right now.

All things considered my time in New Zealand has been good but having to manage my issue with Meniere’s and vertigo has created a low grade background anxiety and I am not really comfortable doing things the way I normally would. I feel like I really need to make things a little easier than usual. Sleep and watching what I eat while avoiding alcohol and caffeine are very important in keeping vertigo at bay.

If you change one simple thing in your life other changes are bound to naturally change. I think it’s safe to say that I am in that transitional period. I love to travel but the other day I started thinking it would be nice to get back to work. It makes me think I might have bit off a little too much time this time around but I also know that feeling can come and go like the wind for me. It is interesting though how New Zealand was a part of my first big trip overseas in 1989. A lot has happened since then and in some ways it’s fitting that I wrap up whatever it is with this return trip that I’ve been meaning to do for years. I’ve posted comments about changing this, that, and whatever in my blog over the years. However, in reality little changed as I found myself back to doing whatever it was I was doing before I left. Usually within two weeks of arriving back home. Now, given my circumstance and health issue I have no choice but to adapt, manage, change.

Christchurch

After the Queen Charlotte track I returned to Picton and stayed one night at Chrissy’s. She and her housemate Libby certainly made for an easy stay in Picton. They also had plenty of suggestions and advice for the remainder of my time in New Zealand. It was a very nice visit and one that I am grateful for.

When I left Picton the weather was lousy so it was a good day for a bus ride to Christchurch. In Kaikoura the bus stopped for a 30 minute break. Two guys that I am pretty sure were a gay couple sat in the seats in front of me. When the bus makes a stop where you know other passengers are going to be picked up it's common sense to leave something in your seat to mark your spot. I noticed the gay guys didn’t and for all I knew they were getting off in Kaikoura.

After half an hour everyone got back on the bus along with some new passengers. A middle aged American woman plopped in the seat in front of me with all kinds of stuff and you could tell she was claiming the two seats all to herself. I could see a potential problem if the gay guys did indeed return. Well, they did.

“Uh, we were sitting there”, Said one of the guys. The woman replied, “The seats were empty when I got on.” “But we were sitting there!” a guy replied. The woman then rudely quipped, “Well I’m sorry, I’m sitting here, I’m not moving, find another seat”. This made the guys very angry and one of them called her a stupid bitch. The guys then split with one sitting next to me and the other on the opposite side a couple of rows up. I quickly volunteered to give up my seat so they could both sit together and they thanked me for being a gentleman. Actually, the woman did kind of seem like a bitch.

The bus rolled out of Kaikoura for a few miles. The road got narrow along some scenic coastline as one of the gay guys snuck up to the driver to inform him that a woman had missed a stop for the hostel at the far end of town. I guess the bus driver was supposed to remember but didn’t. He threw a very audible fit. I don’t know how but he skillfully turned the bus around in the middle of the narrow road and we rolled back to Kaikoura. I guess the driver realized it was kind of his fault and apologized profusely, to the woman who missed her hostel, like a broken record all the way back.

I arrived in Christchurch about half an hour late and got on a local bus to find the Airbnb I’d booked. Aribnb is a website that allows everyday people to list and let various forms of short term accommodation. Since I’ve been hearing about other travels getting a great deal via Airbnb I thought I’d give it a go.

I found the BnB ok and it was located in a nice neighborhood. The woman who I had communicated with said she would not be there when I arrived but her son would. The place didn’t look too welcoming with all curtains drawn. I knocked on the door, no answer. I knocked on the neighbors door to make sure I was at the right place then I knocked some more. Same result, no answer. By that time I didn’t have a good feeling about the situation so I hopped the bus back to city center and settled for a dorm bed in a hostel for the night. I then sent out an email and cancelled my reservation for a refund of less than 50%.

The next morning I received an email from the woman with the Airbnb and she was very apologetic. She wanted to give me the portion that was not refunded to my credit card, in cash, so I met her at tourist information at midday. In person she sincerely apologized, handed me the refund, and commented that her son is a “dick”. The woman was super nice and had she be there when I arrived I’m sure it would have worked out fine, however, I’m not so sure about her son so I was happy to totally cancel the deal. In the end I found a quiet single room at a hostel that I'm almost for certain is the same hostel I stayed at in Christchurch in 1989. The woman running the place is the daughter of the mother who was running it in the ‘80’s and strongly resembles what I remember her mother looking like which more or less confirms my previous stay.

The city of Christchurch is a mess with empty broken buildings, vacant lots, and construction projects taking far too long. In 2010 and 2011 the city was rattled by strong earthquakes that killed close to 200 people. The rebuilding process has been slow and difficult for a country of 4 million at the bottom of the world. The silver lining is how artists and creative types have invaded the city and filled vacant lots with art of various forms, food trucks, vendor trailers, and a shopping mall made out shipping containers. Vacant buildings are either tagged with grafitti or decorated with large well thought out murals. Funky café’s and creatively themed bars fill the in-between between destruction. The rebuild is gradually taking shape as the city is being reformed from the inside out. Barring any more major quakes it will be really interesting to see what Christchurch is like ten years down the line.

All in all there’s a cool artist vibe or as a French woman put it, “Ambiance”. I like it here. I’ve spent my time in Christchurch walking around, running in a park and resting. Last night there was a small earthquake but I am happy to report no vertigo during the last few days. Knock on wood…..

Queen Charlotte Track

I started feeling strange shortly after I posted the last bit of writing on my blog. I was also about halfway through a cup of tea. I stopped the tea and drank a bunch of water then ate some food. I wasn’t experiencing vertigo but close to it. I think I cut it off just before it got going. I’m sure caffeine was the trigger and I think the food and water helped to quickly dilute the tea.

Au revoir caffeine. It was nice to know you. I’ll miss those uppity chatty coffee talks and bursts of creative inspiration but not when it sends me into the realm of vertigo. I’m sure my social life will suffer as if it hasn’t already. Will I have coffee and tea sometime again in the future? Likely? Yes. Soon? No.

By mid-morning I leveled out and got things together for a three night four day trip on the Queen Charlotte Track. It’s a point to point hike that extends from Ship Cove on the far end of Queen Charlotte sound to Anakiwa on the bay of Grove Arm near Picton. The path traverses hillside up over a small pass from Ship Cove to Endeavor Inlet to follow along water. From the inlet it runs mostly atop ridgeline with views to end at Anakiwa. All the way it parallels the sound.

I got a late start the first day as the afternoon water taxi took over an hour to get me to Ship Cove. Most of the track is only accessible by foot, mountain bike, or boat. The trail is fairly popular so a couple of different companies offer drop off and pickup service via boat with complimentary pack transfer. I arranged a pack transfer for the first and fourth day. I’d have to carry my pack for days two and three because of where I wanted to camp. There are a number of places to camp along the way but there are also lodges and so forth that offer backpacker accommodation.

Ship cove is most known for Captain Cook having spent time there on several occasions during his explorations. A monument has been built in honor of his time at the cove. The area itself remains much like how it would have looked during the times of Captain Cook minus the monument, picnic tables and information board. The land around the cove is saturated with thick green subtropical vegetation, palms, and ferns. The water is clear and clean.

From Ship cover it was a ten mile hike to a campsite on Endeavor Inlet offered by an individual named Tony. Tony spends seven months a year at his home on the inlet and does not leave the area during that time period. He grows tobacco, has his own still for alcohol, and makes hiking sticks out of a local hardwood that he sells for $10 NZD. He’s an extremely nice character who hand dug and built flat tent sites, a cooking area, and installed an outhouse that he keeps immaculately clean. He also has offers extras such chairs, hammocks and solar showers with access to a beach. I’d say it qualifies as a wonderful place to lose a day if one so wishes. I arrived early enough to set up camp and finish dinner before it got dark.

The next morning I awoke feeling pretty good at first but a spell of vertigo come on pretty fast and intense. It quickly eased up and I was able to fix breakfast. I figured eating was a good idea because I was hungry and not nauseous. I then retreated to a hammock and felt much better by mid-morning so I read my book and didn’t get started until noon.

By noon I was feeling fine and had a nice walk to Punga cove lodge where I stopped for a caffeine and alcohol free smoothie. Punga is another nice place to lose a few days. From there I hiked strong up to a ridge. A one point I took a side trail up to a peak for a spectacular view. The weather was absolutely perfect. After that I continued on to camp at department of conservation campsite where I camped with three people from France.

Around 4:30 am I was awakened by a bout of vertigo but was fine by time I got up at 7 am. I guess you can say that was convenient but I can’t say I felt rested. From the campsite I followed more ridgeline and planned to dip off the ridge to camp at Portage Bay on Kenepuru Sound opposite side of Queen Charlotte sound. I arrived at the campsite that was accessible by car and not too thrilled about it. It wasn’t bad but I knew there was backpacker accommodation nearby.

A short walk took me to a place with a nice clean room with shared kitchen and bath. What really got me was the spectacular verandah with stunning view. I paid $50 NZD which comes out to $33 USD and stayed the night. After a swim I spent the rest of the day reading a book about a guy who rode a small postal motorbike from Australia to England through some crazy countries like Afghanistan just a few years ago. I figure with vertigo I really need to make things a little easier for myself. That’s why I was taking four days to walk a trail I could have done in three days but why rush.

The weather turned on the 4th day and much of it was walked in light rain. I only had to carry a day pack as the owners of the accommodation offered a free pack shuttle to the complimentary water taxi transfer. Not a bad deal. I hiked well to Anakiwa and tacked on another side trip to a peak for a cloudy view. When I finished the hike I felt fine but I think my body had to adjust to not walking as I noticed my balance was off. I simply got off of my feet and things seem to recalibrate. I felt fine again after a shirt while. Fortunately, no vertigo. The boat ride back to Picton was nice. All in all, despite my vertigo issues it was good hike and absolutely beautiful.

Picton - Adios Cerveza

I arrived in Picton feeling good and walked over to a waterfront bar/restaurant called Le Café. Chrissy was there with an assortment of friends. Many were ex-pats from England working and living in the area escaping the miserable English winter weather. I figured one pint of beer, Wild Buck, would be fine because I was feeling good.

I’ll be damned if I didn’t start to feel strange after just one. I tried to brush it off and didn’t want to appear unsocial so I continued to do my best to follow and engage in conversation hoping it would pass soon. Chrissy had run off on an errand and would soon be back  soon to collect me.

When Chrissy returned I carefully got up as to not appear drunk and followed her younger British housemate to the car. I announced to Chrissy and her housemate that I had an inner ear problem and was quite dizzy. On the way to Chrissy’s house I explained briefly what was going on.

When I got out of the car I carefully handled my pack. The British women took notice and in blunt fashion asked me if my ear was really F’d up. I replied, “Yes”. She showed me to the basement couch where I spent a spinny unsocial hour and a half riding it out While Chrissy was entertaining guests and fixing dinner upstairs. Adios Cerveza. I’m sad to see you go.

Well, that’s it for the beer. I’m not sure how it will play into my future but I’m sure my social life will suffer, if it hasn’t already. Alcohol is a definite no for me. To be honest, aside of the glorious pints I enjoyed on the Southwest Coast of England last summer and the big bottles in Greece thereafter, beer really hasn’t been sitting all that well with me regardless of the Meniere’s. If I want to roll the dice, fine, but I don’t want to roll the dice for awhile. Alcohol messes me up. Period. Will I have another drink someday? Likely? Yes. Soon? No! Good thing I don’t have an addictive personality or I’d really be messed up.

Today, Friday, has been a lovely day in Picton. Chrissy lives just outside of city center and her deck boasts a wonderful view of a bay and the peaks of Queen Charlotte sound in the Marlborough region. It’s especially nice in the morning. Her housemate works as an outdoor activities guide and was out a little after 7 am. Chrissy made some kind of green shake with kale, avocado, powders, and herbs for breakfast. I had a taste it reminded me of standing in a garden near a compost bin of fresh cut grass. She says it makes her feel good and headed off to help set up a wine festival for the weekend. I had some of her homemade granola, washed the dishes, and walked into town with no real plan.

As if I somehow knew what I was going to do I walked into a bakery shop and picked up a sandwich made with lots of veggies and really nice thick cut wholegrain bread. I also found a complimentary town map that showed a nice hike starting by the marina.

I found the trailhead with ease. The trail took me up a ridgeline to a couple of nice views of the surrounding peaks, bays and islands. After about an hour and a half I arrived at the snout where the ridge ends at a point with water at each side. I had lunch there and returned back up the ridge until reaching a side trail down to Bob's bay then back to town. The weather and temperature were absolutely perfect. I really like this area and it has a really nice peaceful feel. I'd post some pictures from my walk to the Snout but I forgot to bring my camera.

On Saturday I will head off on the Queen Charlotte track for 3 nights and 4 days. It's a popular hike near Picton that follows Queen Charlotte sound along the water and atop ridgelines. It's somewhat remote in spots but there are plenty of places to camp and lodges along the way. Access is predominately by foot and boat. It will be a few days before I post again on the blog.

On To The South Island

Yesterday, Wednesday, I spent another day walking around Wellington and visited the Botanic Gardens. Wellington really is a wonderful city. It’s hilly with a mountain backdrop and sits on a bay with a long beautiful waterfront. There’s a creative vibe with art in various forms all over the city. The bars and cafes are interestingly decorated with a theme. It’s a healthy place with a noticeable lack of overweight people and an active running community. Mountain biking and water sports are also very popular. It’s the Nation’s capital and parliament sits and in an architectural anomaly known as the “Bee Hive”.

The weather has been breezy but the temperature is perfect. This morning I went for a run along the waterfront and there were plenty of other runners. Some guy ran up behind me unannounced. I could hear his heavy breathing just behind my shoulder. I guess he wanted to pace off me but I prefer to run alone and find other people’s heavy breathing to be annoying. I threw in a surge and dropped the guy. A couple of minutes later I could feel my gait change. I stopped and started to feel vertigo. I walked it off for a minute and continued at an easier pace and felt ok. That’s the first time I’ve ever felt any kind of vertigo when running, however, I do seem to be most susceptible in the morning. After my run, which only lasted 30 minutes, I walked, sat, and walked. I was fine.

I know that my Meniere’s vertigo is getting to be a common theme with these posts but it’s a part of what I am having to deal with while I travel. On top of that I’m still learning how to manage. My goal is to adjust and manage in a way that doesn’t require having to give up the things I like to do. I’ve never been one to just surrender, hang it up, and worry about the worst case scenario. Like I always say, “As long as you are alive you might as well live”.

Today should be interesting. I’m boarding a ferry at 2:45 this afternoon for the South Island. I’ll be crossing the notoriously choppy Cook’s Strait. It’s only a 3 hour ride and I usually do well in big boats but things are a little different now. I suppose it will be a test of sorts. I intentionally chose the afternoon ferry as I seem to be best off around midday.

The ferry arrives in Picton where I’ll meet up with a friend who lives there. The Northern portion of the South Island is wine country. I met Chrissy right around 8 years to day in Mendoza, Argentina which is also wine country. We were staying at the same place and wound up hanging out together touring vineyards and of course drinking wine. We kept in touch via Facebook. Upon my arrival in Picton I’ll meet up with her at a local café and will surf her couch for a couple of nights. Naturally, given the circumstances, I’ll want to imbibe in some wine. I’ll just be sure to hold it at two on a full stomach. I think it will be ok. Regardless, it should be a good visit. It will be fun to catch up and I’m sure I’ll meet some locals.

The photo above is of the "Bee Hive" I mentioned. Parliament is in session right now.

Wellington Vertigo

One of the things I really like to do when I travel is sit at sidewalk café or bar while drinking a beer or coffee. It’s kind of a regular thing for me when I’m on the road. Wellington with all of its cafes and bars tempted me right away so I sat down and ordered a beer while I wrote the previous post. I made sure to order the beer with the lowest alcohol content of 4%. I figured I’d be ok with one or two. I got into writing and the music was quite good. The bartender asked if I’d like another. I ordered a 3rd beer which would surely be the last one. I was feeling fine and continued writing.

I finished the beer, saved my writing and walked off to get something to eat. A couple of blocks later I could tell my steps were feeling funny. Dammit! Balance was off and vertigo was coming on. I knew I needed to eat so I thought quick and familiar would be good. No one was in the Subways across the street so I went in and didn’t have to think much as I ordered the same sandwich I always order at Subways. I wasn’t really spinning yet but I was feeling really weird. I got the sandwich and walked out.

The next decision was to either try to make it back to the guest house or to find a park bench or something. I decided to go for the guest house. It took all my concentration to walk straight and not bump into people but I did bump into an information sign. I was careful crossing streets and made it back to my room ok. I wasn’t spinning badly, didn’t have nausea, and felt quite hungry so I ate. Then the spins officially came on.

When experiencing vertigo the best thing for me to do is lay down and close my eyes. At first the feeling is super intense with eyes closed but within a couple of minutes things calm down and I don’t feel like I’m spinning. If I open my eyes I’ll feel the spin if I am still and lying down I won’t feel it. After anywhere from thirty minutes to a couple of hours I’m fine. Another hour or so after that I’m normal again and can stand on one leg while touching my nose. It’s a crazy thing and all related to my right inner ear. Honestly, at this point it’s almost comical. One thing for sure is alcohol does not help my situation. Denial is slowly eroding. It’s obviously best I don’t drink at all but if I do I must stop at two to insure having a chance of getting away with it.`

The one night at the quirky guest house was really quite comfortable. I met up with the owner again in the morning as he was serving up continental breakfast. He seemed fine. He assured me the other rooms had been spoken for otherwise he would have let me move. I replied, “No problem, no worries”. I ate quickly and left without issue. I think the owner and myself just got off on the wrong foot. It was an odd deal and his appearance from being badly burned likely added to any misunderstands with it being more difficult to read expressions etc.

From the guest house I walked over the YHA Hostel and dropped my pack so I could hike for the day. There are some good walks right out of the city. I chose the Southern Walkway from Wellington Harbor over Mt Victoria for a grand city view then to a bay on the south coast. From there I returned via the City to Sea Walkway through parks and reserves. It was a very nice walk and made for a full day.

After the walk I returned to the hostel and was pleased to get a room on the top floor with a view. There’s plenty of city noise but the room is comfortable and for whatever reason I felt like I arrived where I was supposed to be. The hostel itself is very nice and the staff is great. It’s definitely good for 2 nights. I’ll take the ferry to the South Island on Thursday.

Tongariro Crossing - A Good Day

Beer is definitely not good for my Meniere’s but in Wellington, NZ it's very difficult not to imbibe. Yesterday was a wonderfully normal day and today up to now has followed suit. I hitched a ride with a Finnish couple from the hostel this morning who have a car. I left them with $20 NZD for gas when they dropped me off in town center. A short walk confirmed my inclination that Wellington is a three night town. It’s a hip and alive with a good vibe at the southern tip of the North Island.

Yesterday I caught an early shuttle for Tongariro National Park to hike the most popular trail on the North Island, Tongariro Alpine Crossing. It traverses volcanic landscapes up and over a couple of passes with the option of climbing a two volcanic peaks. The most impressive is Ngauruhoe Aka Mt. Doom. There is also the lower peak of Tongariro. The length of the crossing is right around 12 miles with side trips up the peaks adding more time and distance.

I caught a shuttle for the point to point hike at 6am with the return options of 3, 4, and 5. Given how I was feeling the day before I thought I might be taking a bit of a risk but my anxieties proved to be null and void. I felt good from the get go and added the stiff steep hike up scree, sand, and rock to the handsome summit of Ngauruhoe. From the top I descended a quick line for a bit of scree skiing and rejoined the masses doing the crossing.

The second peak, Tongariro, is much simpler and shorter but I passed as I didn’t want to lose too much time and miss the last shuttle. I also did not want to overdo it. I continued on with the masses.

The reason I say the masses is because it was probably the most crowded I’ve ever seen a hiking trail aside of Mt. Fuji. Total usage had to be well over a thousand if not thousands. It was the first nice day after a few days of rain and a holiday weekend. Most people just do the crossing. If a peak is added most opt for Tongariro. I had plenty of room to move on the side trip up Ngauruhoe but traffic on the crossing trail made it like walking in a snake line for a good portion of the hike. Fortunately, people were well behaved, patient, and most seemed to have a clue. I could still walk at a reasonably good pace.

Despite the crowds I really enjoyed the crossing. It is a very nice hike and the side trip up the peak was really great. Most of all it felt really good to feel like myself. My energy, hiking pace, and everything felt really good. In the end I wished I’d gone for the Tongariro peak side trip. I would have made it back in time for the 5pm shuttle, however, it was nice to not have to rush and wise to not push it more than I already had.

Camping at the hostel in Turangi worked out well. I'm really enjoying meeting other travelers, especially the younger ones. It seems like yesterday I was one of them at 25. It all goes by so fast and so much has changed. However, I am happy to report although older folks may not understand nor agree with some of the behaviors of the younger generation, overall, I think we are just fine. The twenty something's of today are super tech savvy. They work an IPhone as a natural extension of self while they ride the wave of modern times. However, a good old fashion sense of doing the right thing and being nice to others, etc. remains. They may appear to be caught up and lost in the world of smartphones, Facebook, Instagram and narcissism but they still talk to one another. Most know how to hold a personable conversation. An element of what I saw amongst travelers 30 years ago still exists but undoubtedly technology has changed things tremendously. Ultimately, as they say in Vietnam, things are more or less “Same same but different”. People are still people but who rights post cards anymore?

Wellington is a busy place. It’s the one and only ferry port for the South Island at the bottom of the North Island. It’s got flavor, character and it’s been said to be very difficult to find a bad cup of coffee. Open air café’s and bars abound with life. It also has a shortage of accommodation and mediocre hostel reviews. City hostels have a tendency to host questionable characters.

This morning I hastily booked online for a three night stay at a guest house. It's been hostels, camping and caravan thus far so I wanted something a little better for few nights. A good price and good reviews made for a quick decision.

I was pleased to find the guest house located in an interesting quiet neighborhood. When I rang the bell an odd looking older gentleman answered the door with a blank look. His face was badly scarred and somewhat disfigured from being burned. Scabs covered sensitive areas that had recently bled. I told him I had a reservation and he moved to allow me in. I was then greeted by a very nice young German woman in a courteous fashion as would be expected. I then asked the older gentleman if I had a choice of rooms. He immediately took offense and said that wasn’t a question that should be asked. At first I wasn’t sure if he was joking or not. I quickly sensed he was serious and didn’t feel particularly welcome. Maybe it was my backpack, ball cap, and need of a shave.

The nice German woman showed me to the room which is in actuality quite nice and good for the price but it's located in a higher traffic part of the building, at ground level, near the entrance door and it has and odd smell. I noticed two other rooms of the same type with doors open and keys in the lock. I also noticed the no vacancy sign was not up.

I originally accepted the room but immediately asked if I could move to one of the other rooms. The owner said that would not be possible and seemed to take offense. Even the German woman seemed to be confused as to why. The owner gave me the impression of being somewhat passive and I felt less welcome.

Feeling uncomfortable and a little ticked off I got online and contacted the site I had booked the room with. I was able to cancel two nights with no penalty and will only stay one night. Having worked in the hospitality and hotel business I have a very low tolerance for not being treated reasonably well when paying for accommodation. Honestly, even with the quirky owner, the room is a good value despite it's flaws but I couldn’t justify staying taking into consideration principle. I'm not sure what the issue is with the owner but I suspect he may be one of those types who is old and bitter as a result of whatever happened to him. Maybe I just caught him at the wrong time, a bad day, or it's a simple misunderstanding. Regardless, I don't feel welcome and that's reason enough to move on. In a town with a shortage of accommodation maybe it doesn’t matter. He can be however he wants.

Tomorrow I will move to a YHA hostel for a couple of nights before taking the ferry to the South Island. The YHA hostel appears to be the best hostel in town. I was just barely able to get in for two nights. I booked a single room for the same price as the guest house. It won't be as good a value but the receptionist was very nice and they have free guitar rental. Anyway, Wellington should be fine for a couple days…..

Turangi Vertigo

Friday, Februay, 5th was kind of a lost day. I did not travel as planned. It didn’t make sense. Totara Slope is a nice place and I figured I’d just be held up in Turangi at a hostel or wet tent so I figured I best stay another night with my awesome woofing hosts. The Caravan is very comfortable. It’s been wet and rainy all day.

A little idle time in small doses is ok and sometimes welcomed but currently I am not much into it, however, I think a forced rest is probably a good thing. I’ve been throwing caution to the wind and have been enjoying local New Zealand meats every night along with a couple of beers with Dave and Janice. I’m more or less deaf in my right ear but the world is not spinning at the moment.

I think my remaining time in New Zealand will be anything but idle. I’m getting the hiking bug. I went ahead and booked a reservation to hike the famous Milford Track in early March in the Fiord Lands of the South Island. The Milford Track is not a long and only takes around 3 days or so. It is however world famous and highly regulated for use. A reservation is mandatory and they only allow a limited number of hikers per day. On top of that you have to stay in huts and follow a fixed itinerary. It’s a bit of racket with hut and transportation fees but the scenery is supposed to be stunning. There was only one 3 night slot with two openings for the remaining trekking season. I booked for one so I guess I’m sort of lucky in that regard. There must have been a recent cancellation.

Friday afternoon I went into the small city of Tauranga to run a few errands with Janice and her niece. I wanted to shop at the Mac Pac store as they are having a clearance sale. Mac Pac is a high end New Zealand outdoor gear manufacturer and you can’t find their stuff in America. I bought a new pair of shorts at half price in Auckland at the beginning of my trip. I like them so much that I wanted to buy another pair. I have a very difficult time finding my kind of clothes in America that fit right. Mac Pac tends to fit me really well. American clothing tends to be too baggy and designed for a fuller figure. I’m a medium sized slim guy. The New Zealand cut works for me. Also, I find that clothes in France tend to fit me better as well. I picked up another pair of shorts and a cool pair of pants both at half price. I would have waited until the end of my trip but I didn’t want to miss the clearance sale. So, at least I accomplished that today.

Saturday, February 6, 2016

Last night was kind of nice at Janice and Dave’s even though the weather was total crap. A friend of theirs came over and I more or less cooked dinner with some help from Janice while we drank beers. Around 9pm or so I retreated to the caravan and slept well.

This morning Dave drove me to the bus stop in Tauranga and I caught a bus to Turangi. Well, I guess throwing caution to the wind all week caught up with me and I probably shouldn’t have had a 3rd beer last night. I was battling dizziness on the bus all the way to Turangi. It would come and go. The winding road sections and roundabouts were the worst. I’d feel ok then things would get weird then I’d feel ok again. When I switched busses at Rotorua I felt normal but the short ride from there to Turangi had me spinning. By time I got to Turangi I was careful getting off the bus and grabbed my pack. I slowly walked to the front lawn of Tourist Information and sat it out while things calmed down and I felt normal again. It kind of bummed me out. It was an uncomfortable bus ride but not horrible. It was the first time I’ve ever had trouble riding a bus.

Since this is a bank holiday weekend everything is booked so I’ve settled for a decent campsite at a hostel for a couple of nights. The hostel is very basic and the crowd is their 20’s. A young French woman is going to fix some kind of desert crepe for everyone so it seems like a nice bunch of folks.

The town of Turangi doesn’t really do anything for me. I’m really just here for a hike and I don’t imagine staying more than 2 or 3 nights. I’ll join a group from the hostel for the hike tomorrow so I think I’m in a good place considering.

As far as my Meniere’s inner ear issue goes I’m beginning forgo denial and think it’s best to pay more attention to what I eat and drink. Based on my experiments of sorts I’d say beer and coffee are not good for me but a cup of coffee and a bottle of beer are probably ok every now and then. Diet is especially difficult to regulate perfectly on the road but I’ll do what I can. I need to be more mindful of my current state of being as opposed to a more normal state. It might be a good idea to spend more time in a place I really like and not move around too much. I need things to be a little more on my own terms so I don’t think I’ll do anymore volunteer woofing unless the situation really appeals to me. I kind of like the hostels for the social aspect but I should probably avoid shared rooms. Also, it may be a good idea to fork out a few extra bucks from time to time to make things easier for myself.  I'm still trying to find my stride but I'm hopeful and am maintaining an overall positive attitude.

Totara Slope

On Monday I arrived at Totara Slope near Te Puna. I caught a ride with a German from the hostel in Tainui early to Thames. In Thames I dropped my pack at tourist information and went for a lengthy walk along a bay and up to a WW1 monument then down and around for a big loop. Thames is an old gold mining town from the 1800’s. Some of the homes and buildings reminded me of the kind of structures you see in old mining towns of the American West.

A bus took me from Thames to Te Puna where Dave greeted me at the drop off. I had gotten in touch with Dave and Janice via the New Zealand woofing site. Woofing is a popular program that creates opportunities for individuals to do volunteer work in exchange for room and board. It's mostly farm related work of some sort. Woofing is also intended to provide a way for travelers and the like to meet and connect with locals of different cultures in a more authentic fashion.

Dave and Janice are close to my age and own a plot of land right outside of Te Puna. The land is more or less a steep brush filled gully with lots of trees, ferns, and palms. A small creek runs through the bottom. The land had not been developed and given the steepness etc. they bought it at a good price. Since purchasing the property they have built a nice open air home up top and a small cabin (Bach) down at the bottom by a creek. They have also added some other structures such as sheds, green house, and a fixed caravan. The place is set up like a nature reserve with a garden and small trail that leads to the bottom. It’s not a large property but there is a lot of variety. With a gully forming a canyon of sorts and the home built up top there’s a nice view across the property.

Some woofers have stayed for weeks at a time but I was just looking at a few days. Upon arrival Dave and Janice gave me a full tour and it's really interesting to see what they have done. My accommodation is a caravan with access to a toilet and outside shower. Dave and Janice couldn’t be nicer. They are very hospitable and welcoming.

My work has been mostly mowing steep hillside with a weed eater. The slope adds a bit of challenge with footing otherwise it’s not particularly difficult work. The one thing I like about mowing is that you can see steady progress for a feeling of instant gratification. Sleeping in the Caravan has been great and the dinners are very nice with local New Zealand meats and vegetables from the garden. 

Yesterday after mowing in the morning I went to Mt Mongonui near Tauranga to hike a small volcano near a beach town. Today I more or less finished what needed mowing and have spent the day hanging out on property. This will be a short stay as I will leave tomorrow.

My time spent woofing is brief but it’s given me a chance to check it out and take the experience for a test drive of sorts. I probably would stay longer but in all honesty I don’t really feel like working. I’ve always said when I work I work and when I travel I travel. Also, I’ve been feeling a little unusually tired lately which makes it hard for me to really be motivated for work I’m not particularly interested in doing in the first place.

My favorite part of the stay has been evening meals and sleeping in the Caravan. I have to admit with my inner ear problem I am not functioning at 100%. I need to be flexible day by day, take it easy when I feel tired, and go for it on days I feel good. Feeling obligated in any kind of work arrangement adds an element of stress. I read a book about Meniere’s disease before I left on this trip. Aside of the hearing and vertigo issues it does cause a certain amount of fatigue from time to time. I theorize that the brain, in its process of compensating for balance and dizziness, can cause one to feel and little more tired than usual at times. Maybe weed eating for a couple of hours while trying to balance on the side of hill like a mountain goat may not have been the best thing for me right now. Tomorrow I’ll travel on to Turangi and Tongariro National park. The weather is supposed to be lowsey the next couple of days but I hope to get in some hiking soon.