A straight shot down highway 54 through desert mountains and ranch country led me into the town of Van Horn and the intersection of interstate 10 which runs east/west from Florida to California. At Van Horn I jumped onto highway 90 and veered southwest while staring at a UFO for miles until I realized it was a blimp that's somehow used to detect drug smugglers and the like. From Marfa I got on highway 87 and headed south to the border of Mexico.
Just outside of Marfa there’s a Border Patrol check station. Heading south I was not required to stop but passed a bunch of hi tech equipment that appeared to be taking pictures of my car and license plate. Those heading north are stopped. As I proceeded on I saw very few cars.
Presidio is a border town in a very broad flat valley. I drove all the way to the border crossing then turned around and looped through town. Hot, dry, dusty and fairly depressed summed up my assessment of the place. It's what I expected but kind of interesting in its own way. The real reason for choosing the route was my desire to drive along the Rio Grande next to the border. I had been told that the road is so close that you can throw a rock into Mexico.
As I headed east along highway 170 things really started to get scenic as far as deserts are concerned. The road quickly leaves the flats of Presidio as it rolls towards the mountains and canyons of the Rio Grande. The highway itself is it excellent condition and most of the time you’re in Big Bend Ranch State Park so there are plenty of pull offs with some having interpretive information signs.
Along the way I stopped numerous times for photos, passed several border patrol, and easily threw a rock into Mexico. At one particularly scenic spot there’s the remains of an old Movie set with adobe buildings and shoddily built chapel, It’s right on the banks of the Rio Grande and has been used for 9 different films. Occasionally I’d see another car or motorcycle but needless to say the road does not see much traffic.
At the small resort village of Lajitas I continued on to Terlingua. Terlingua is a mining town gone bust turned ghost town. In the 1970’s Terlingua was a real ghost town except for once a year when a bunch of drunken crazies would move in for a chili cookoff. Eventually a hippie, an artist, a survivalist, and a few who just wanted to get away from it all started making some of the old buildings livable again. In time a few bars, a couple of coffee shops and small quirky hotels opened up. It’s now kind of a funky sort of West Texas Key West with a small year round population consisting of an eclectic mix of characters. I think it would be an interesting place to sit and write a book or something. However, I also sense it would be very easy to find yourself falling into a pile of Lone Star Beer Cans and wondering where the last few years went. It’s that kind of place.
Past Terlingua I entered Big Bend National and head up into the Chisos Mountains where I’ve set up camp for a few days to hike and explore the area. Yesterday I climbed the highest mountain in the Chisos Mountains and hiked along the South Rim of the Range. Today I explored back roads and hiked a bit in the Santa Elena Canyon. The weather has been warm and wonderful with mild nights but a dry cold front blew in during the day which means colder nights but still clear and mild days. All said, the desert scenery of Big Bend National Park is absolutely beautiful and unique in its own way compared to other desert regions of the USA.
2 comments:
Don't you know it's ILLEGAL to throw rocks from the U.S.A. into Mexico?!! Whoever suggested you attempt such a stunt obviously didn't have your best interests in mind. Ha!
I enjoyed reading your review of the area. You're very perceptive and your descriptions are spot on.
By the way, I too noticed that blimp from miles away as I rode south on 54. Did you notice it was tethered? As I approached and then passed it I snapped several pictures. I also noticed a USAF Squadron insignia on the gate leading to the complex so I turned around and took a photo of it as well. Being an Air Force Vet a part of me really wanted to ride down there and strike up a conversation with those folks. Looking down the barrel of an M-16 didn't appeal to me, so better judgement won out over curiosity. Kind of like throwing rocks across the Rio, there are some things you just do NOT do! (just kidding).
Andy
I once drove by on my way to a wedding in Chihuahua from San Antonio, Tx I figured I take the scenic route on my sports car since I was alone. After a few delays, I ended up taking a few wrong turns and I found myself driving at 2am through the mountains 150 miles from Presidio, tx. All of the sudden, I hear a loud noise, like dragging a trashcan box under my car. I got startled and then felt warmth coming from my driver side window and saw two orange balls the size of a harvest moon flying away heading up toward East. I nearly had a heart attack! I didn't dare to stop, I punched the gas and sped away as fast as I could!
After that, I drove th rest of the way in a panic state. When i headed back (during daylight) I stopped by the border patrol checkpoint and asked them if they had ever seen strange stuff going on in the sky. The officer smiled and said, "all the time".
After a few years, I wondered if what I saw was a real UFO or a dumb ass USAF jet pilot from around there having a good time on my tax dollars. Either way, that place is just a very beautiful and strange place that is best traveled during the day:-)
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