Florida Then Home

I'm now writing from Houston. I arrived back home 3 days ago after a 16 hour drive from Clearwater, Florida. Since my last post I headed directly from Charleston, South Carolina to Hollywood Beach, Florida. I stayed there one night before dropping further south to Key West. After a couple of nights in Key West I worked my way up the west coast of Florida to Clearwater where I visited a friend and his family for two nights. Needless to say, I did a lot of driving and by the end covered a little over 4,000 miles for a loop tour.

The drive from Charleston to Hollywood Beach went well but I was disappointed to unexpectedly find my desired budget backpacker styled accommodation completely booked. In a post 500 mile road dazed state I spent way too much time locating an acceptable alternative at a reasonable price. Sometimes I spend too much time trying to save a dime when its really not worth the hassle. All said, I did find a funky cool inexpensive room just a skip away from the beach. I shook off the hassle and road fatigue with a couple of Bahamanian beers at a beach side bar with Caribbean rhythms and called it a night.

The following morning I went for a good run along the Hollywood beach promenade followed by a swim in the Ocean. I've been to Hollywood beach a couple of times before and find it to be a great alternative to Ft Lauderdale which is just a few miles north. It's less expensive and more interesting in my opinion.

From Hollywood my next destination was Key West. I've always wanted to drive to Key West and have been greatly interested in checking out the long thin Island Chain that extends off the tip of Florida.

I first had to pass through Miami which turned out to be a real pain until I figured out how to access a turnpike which made it dramatically easier. The turnpike led me directly to Highway 1 at the very bottom of Florida. From there it was a 130 mile drive to the end, Key West.

Highway 1 is two lane most all of the way but it moves pretty well. The first Island is Key Largo which is the beginning of a series of bridge hops from one small island to another. At times the drive is very scenic. Especially while crossing some of the longer causeways. Some sections of drive are cluttered with businesses and buildings in various states of disrepair. After about 2 1/2 to 3 hours of traversing from Island to Island I arrived at Key West, the southernmost point of the contiguous United States. Just a 90 mile swim from Cuba.

Key West is a small Island that's roughly 4 miles wide and 7 miles long. It's packed with homes and businesses that revolve around tourism. It's well known for diving, sailing, beaches and partying but most importantly the sunsets. Well, I'm not sure about the diving, the sailing seems pretty good, the beaches are nothing to write home about but the partying seems to be set at full throttle, all the time, if that's what your interested in. Something about an Island way down south and a Jimmy Buffet song have made Key West an idyllic location to just drink and eat to your hearts content. Out of the numerous bars and restaurants Sloppy Joe's is a favorite. At its current location, since the 1930's, it was once frequented by Earnest Hemingway and is where he gave up one wife for another before moving to Cuba. The large gay population adds an extra dimension to the atmosphere with tidy gardens, quaint shops, B&B's, and female impersonator shows. Everyone is from somewhere else and many have a distinctly unique take on life. I could easily see a person waking up one morning in Key West and wondering what happened to the last few years.

Interestingly enough I didn't have a single drink during my two nights in Key West. I was more interested in seeing the sights and hoping on a schooner for a sunset sail. For me, I greatly enjoyed visiting the home Ernest Hemingway lived in for ten years while he wrote some of his finest works. Something about visiting homes of creative greats really appeals to me. I'm not sure why but I definitely feel an impression of sorts when I visit such places.

I would have loved to stay in Key West for a few more days but I was on a schedule and accommodation on the Island is not cheap. Despite Key West's flair for debauchery there's a certain charm to the place. Everyone is relaxed and for the most part nice and friendly. The majority of raucous activity is centered around a mile long stretch of Duval Street and the piers. Side streets are much more serene so the party atmosphere is relatively easy to avoid. I could definitely see spending a season there but after awhile I think it would be a bit too much... Oh, the sunsets? Incredible!

From Key West it was a long but fairly easy drive up to Clearwater near Tampa. I spent two nights crashing on the couch of my friend Greg who I use to run with while living in Boulder, Colorado during the early 90's. It was a relaxing visit and great to catch up with him and his family. He's a mailman and still looks the same as he did 20 years ago. Really no change. It's quite remarkable actually. By the way, Clearwater has really nice beaches.

Not wanting to spend money on a hotel on the drive from Clearwater to Houston I decided to drive straight through. I really don't mind long drives and have always been good at them. For a 16 hour drive it really wasn't bad at all. There was reasonably little traffic and great weather the whole way.

For now I'm back home until Christmas when I'll be off for another short excursion. Between now and then? Work, work, work....

...Below are some Key West photos of Hemingway's home and an evening sail...

South Carolina Photos

I didn't spend much time in South Carolina but I will definitely go back. It's a beautiful state whose coastline I'd really like to explore more. South Carolina marks the 48th state I've visited. Here's a sampling of photos...

Couch Surfing In Charleston, South Carolina

I’ve been rollin. From Asheville, North Carolina to Charleston, South Carolina then down to South Florida and the southernmost point of the 48 contiguous states, Key West. The days have been full of activity with plenty of driving in between. Here's a segment from November 12th through the 13th. The Americana Road trip continues.

After a week in Asheville I bid farewell to my good friend Tim and his family. The condo his mother’s friend allowed me to use was awesome and greatly appreciated! As always it was great to catch up over a good hikes, meals, beers, and stories. A very fortunate aspect to my single traveling ways is that it allows me to keep up with friends, scattered about world, easier than most people can. It's difficult to maintain long distance friendships along with busy careers and familial obligations. In my situation there’s lots of flexibility and it’s not as hard to get away. Whenever traveling, I always consider whether or not I’ll be passing near someone I know.

Along with keeping up with friends one of the best things about travel is making new friends. When I left Asheville for Charleston, South Carolina I decided to try out Couch Surfing. Couch surfing is an old vagabond term used for traveling from one friends place to another seeking a couch to sleep on for a night. More recently this concept was taken to the internet and a collective of travelers and people simply interested in hosting travelers was formed. Couchsurfing.org was created as a social networking site to put the concept into action. When I first heard about it my reaction was the same as most any normal persons reaction, “What, show up and sleep at some strangers house?” Well, if you’re a backpacker traveler like myself and step beyond the initial reaction you might see that it can be a pretty good deal.

I had registered with Couch Surfing in mid October and took time to search profiles and all. The site has a number of ways of verifying a hosts identity and legitimacy. Once people have surfed a few times, and gain friends on the site, credibility improves as people leave references and vouch for each other. I had talked to others who had used the site and heard nothing but good things. I think as long as an individual approaches Couch Surfing with good discretion and common sense there shouldn’t be any problems. Also, I’d say it’s good to arrive early and meet the host first before finally moving in for a night or two. In a sense it’s not much different than finding a roommate through the internet or paper. Also, Couch Surfing is in no way intended to be a dating site. This is clearly stated when a person registers. Parameters are set to keep it in line as a way to meet and help other travelers who share common interests.

After searching the profiles I put in two requests for a couch in Charleston. One declined because he was busy but the other enthusiastically accepted. My host would be a Park Ranger / Archeologist by the name of Rebekah.

Since I was passing near the park that Rebekah works at, on my way to Charleston, I decided to drop in an introduce myself. First impression was very good as she instantly reminded me of other people I had worked with during my Wilderness Ranger days. She was super nice, friendly and gave me a tour of the park as we exchanged stories and got to know each other a little. After a nice visit we planned to meet again later at her place. I then took a slow drive into Charleston stopping at a couple old plantations along the way.

When I met up with Rebekah at her home she called two of her friends and we shared a couple of beers before heading into the city to partake in a Mac and Cheese festival for peace. Just like that I was in local company hanging out with locals. We joined the Mac and Cheese fest with 1500 hundred people and Rebekah seemed to know most everyone. If she didn’t know someone and they looked interesting she would just go up and introduce herself.

If you went to a Mac and Cheese Festival for peace in Colorado or California you would probably see a good deal of hairy hippies clad in funky clothing doting dreadlocks while reeking of incense and essential oils. In Charleston I saw none of that. Instead, a woman's attire consisted of sporty yet styli leather boots up to the knee, tight fitting designer pants with understated yet flashy shirt coupled with ¾ length jacket topped off with a well done natural hair doo and just the right amount of makeup. Women in Charleston know how to look good while raising money for peace and I took notice.

We followed up the festival by sampling local brews at a brew pub and riding a replica of the Civil War Hunley submarine like Slim Pickens rode the bomb in Dr. Strangelove. At the end of the evening Rebekahs friend, Amanda, offered to show me around Charleston the next day.

The following morning I met back up with Amanda and her sister for a tour of Charleston while Rebekah ran off to work. Amanda was very nice to share her vast knowledge of Charleston’s history as we spent the first half of the day looking around. By early afternoon Amanda had to go so I hopped the boat to Fort Sumter for the remainder of the day and toured the Civil War Fort that guards the entrance to the Charleston bay area.

That evening I caught up with Rebekah. We were both tired from the previous nights Mac and Cheese fest so we just hung out swapped stories.

I couch surfed at Rebekahs for two nights and was provided a camping cot in my own simple room. It was perfectly suited and very comfortable. The best part about the whole experience was simply getting to meet Rebekah. She’s a great host and an awesome person with a vibrant spirit. I feel like I’ve made new friend whom I’ll cross paths with again somewhere along the way.

From Charleston I planned a long drive south to Ft Lauderdale/Hollywood Beach. I put in a couple of couch requests for Ft Lauderdale but no luck. From there I planned to go to Key West. Searching profiles for a couch in Key West didn’t look good. There are a number of strange birds and obvious alternative lifestyle types listed so I wasn't sure what to think. I did put in one request but more or less figured I’d splurge on a reasonable accommodation of my own while there….. But first… I had to get to Florida….

Biltmore Estate - Asheville, North Carolina

Before leaving Asheville I spent a day touring the grounds of the exceedingly impressive Biltmore Estate. It was inspired by the Chateaus of the Loir valley of France and built by George Vanderbilt between 1889 and 1895. It's touted as being Americas largest home. A tour of the 8,000 acre estate includes the house, gardens, and winery. I've posted a few photos but unfortunately pictures are not allowed to be taken inside the home.

North Carolina Appalachians - Asheville

When I woke up Saturday morning in Asheville, North Carolina it was snowing. Within a short period of time there was an inch on the ground. As I stepped outside I was quickly reminded of how much of an aversion to cold weather I've developed. I guess I used up all of my winter weather tolerance while living in mountains of Colorado and California. Luckily, it's still a little early for winter and the snow was just a teaser for what's to come later in the year.

For the last couple of days the weather has been very nice. The nights are cold but the days are comfortable. During my stay in Asheville I'm visiting a friend who's set me up with a vacation condo for free. It belongs to his mothers friend who has graciously made it available and I have the place to myself for a week.

My main reason for stopping in Asheville is to visit my friend Tim who I worked with during my Forest Service days in Aspen. While I moved on to other interest Tim was able to hop on a career path. After years in Colorado he was offered a position at the Asheville ranger district and moved here a couple of years ago.

My time is being spent hiking and running on trails, checking out the sites, and simply catching up with Tim and his family. Fortunately, I've arrived in time to catch a little fall color. The trees have lost most of their leaves but there are still some areas of read and yellow.

A Stop In Nashville.....

Nashville was the next stop on my Americana road trip. As a closet singer songwriter I’ve always been curios about the Nashville songwriting scene. I was only there for a day but got a good a sense of what it has to offer.

When I first arrived I checked into a hostel where I had booked a bed for the night. The hostel caters mainly to international travelers and attracts a good number of aspiring songwriters and musicians. I met a Canadian who just arrived after a 20 hour bus ride and a Swedish woman who was trying to accomplish as much as she could before her visa ran out. The hostel appears to be the starting point for many aspiring musicians arriving for the first time. The place had a good feel but I’d probably avoid it if fully booked. The place isn’t that big and facilities are quite basic and limited. The kitchen is small and there’s a shortage of bathrooms. Nonetheless, it was perfectly adequate for a night. The main appeal of a hostel environment is the ease in which it is to meet people and make connections. Especially for those who are new to town.

Since I arrived early I basically had a full day. The first place I checked out was Broadway. It’s the main area for live music. Nashville is a country music town but I’ve been told you can find all types, however, all I saw was country an bluegrass. What’s kind of nice is that you can find a variety of live music just about anytime of day, any day of the week. You don’t have to wait until 9 pm on a Friday to see the first act. Around 3 pm I went from bar to bar checking out bands and admired quality memorabilia that decorated most venues. There’s a good block or two of music but it's kind of a small scene from what I’d expect for such a big music town.

After a nice day on Broadway I returned to the Hostel. It didn’t take much thought to decide on the Bluebird Café for the evening. The Bluebird is ground zero for the Nashville Songwriters specifically. It’s the kind of place where you go to listen to the words and no one speaks while a song is being played.

In Nashville you have musicians, entertainers, and songwriters. You can find great musicians, entertainers, and songwriters but it far less common to find a single person who is great at all three art forms. Many, if not most, of the hit songs coming out of Nashville are not written by the entertainer who takes it to number one on the charts. Chances are some average looking low key singer/songwriter wrote it and pitched it to a large publishing company who pitched it to a notable star. The Bluebird is a venue that caters to the songwriter who remains relatively unknown even after writing chart busting hits.

What I like about the songwriter scene is that everyone is very approachable, low key, and for the most part very friendly. It creates a much different kind of atmosphere.

The Bluebird is a small venue. I was there on a Thursday and there were two sittings with songwriters in the round. The first show was free and I squeezed in to catch the last 20 minutes. I wasn’t all that into the female songwriters of the first show but I decided to take a chance on the next set. Luckily, I was able to make a reservation for a table spot.

With the first set over everyone was kicked out to ready the place for the second show. When the doors reopened I paid the $10 cover and couldn’t believe where I was seated. Songwriter in the round is just like it sounds. Songwriters sit in a circle and everyone takes a turn singing one of their songs. I was basically seated in the circle just to the side a bit. I actually had to be careful that I didn't bump a guitar while someone was playing. It was great for me because I could see the chord changes and observe unimpaired while also getting a sense of what it would be like to be in the circle. Seriously, all I had to do was throw my knee around with a guitar and I would have been a part of the round.

It was totally random that I was seated where I was and I almost got the feeling something was trying to tell me somethin. A songwriter by the name of Rick Huckaby got the show started with solid lyrics and skillful guitar playing. There were four male artists and each took turns at the mike. The quality of song and writing was what I’d expect and a huge step up from the first set of musicians. Time between songs was filled with humor and story. As expected a number of the songs had been picked up by larger acts and did well on the charts. One writer played a song he referred to as a mini number one because it wasn’t number one for long, however, it had been number one. They were all thoroughly seasoned writers who had been in Nashville for a long time. It sounded like each had their own record deal at one time or another but for whatever reason just couldn’t make it big. Nashville is a haven for these types. One of the writers explained how he just had a song picked up by Rascal Flats that will be released on their up coming Cd. Kind of like a miner digging for gold the songwriter works for the chance to write a number one single. The mystery is no matter how good your song may be it's all subjective and you never know what's going to take.

The evening at the Bluebird was both inspiring and entertaining. Afterwords I called it a night. The following morning I got up and ran around a replica of the Parthenon, in a park, then proceeded on to the next segment of my Americana road trip, Asheville, North Carolina.

Americana Road Trip... Graceland and Sun Studios.. Memphis, Tennessee.

Since arriving home from Europe in September things have been quiet for me as I once again focused on the nuts and bolts of life. I did sneak away for a few days to visit my Aunt and Uncle in Austin which was very nice. The last time we spent time together was last July in Italy. It was good to catch up stateside.

With resources available I figured I could run off for a couple of weeks and see a few new things in my own country. I've already traveled America extensively but there are still many, many things I have not seen. The idea is to take in a bit of Americana and drop in on a few friends along the way. Last night I stayed with friends in Little Rock, Arkansas but tonight I've checked into a decent cheap hotel in downtown Memphis. Tomorrow I'll head on to Nashville.

The two main attractions for me in Memphis are Graceland and Sun Studio. Graceland was the home of Elvis and the Studio is where the first rock 'n roll record was produced. Elvis was discovered by Sun and recorded his first song there.

It was an easy 2 hour drive to Memphis from Little Rock and I headed straight to Graceland after crossing the long broad bridge over the Mississippi river. Graceland consists of a relatively small mansion built upon a hill within a large grassy yet forested lot. The stone wall that separates the property from Elvis Presley Blvd, with it musically decorative gate, give it a luxurious compound sort of look.

Graceland is on one side of the Blvd while museums, shops, and parking lot are on the other side. When I pulled into the parking lot they wanted $10 to park. Paying to park seemed like a total rip off considering a ticket to visit Graceland is $34! I just turned my car around and parked a five minute walk away to avoid paying the $10 fee.

The nice thing about traveling on weekdays in America, outside of the summer, is that tourist crowds are rarely a problem. After purchasing a ticket I was on a shuttle bus for a quick ride to the Mansion in no time. The first impression I got upon arrival is that the home appears quite a bit smaller than I expected. The tour is self guided and your given an audio device with headphones that explains the nuances of each room.

The interior is frozen with the same decor of 1977. The year Elvis passed away. Each room varies in character from classy and tasteful to artsy bordering on gaudy. The dining room looks perfectly normal but after passing through a dark paneled kitchen into the jungle like living room full of plants and water trickling down a wall constructed of flagstone, I found the home to be particularly interesting.

The basement hosts an entertainment room with three TVs so Elvis could watch all three network news programs at the same time. The room is brightly decorated by some notable decorator of the 70's who used lots of yellow and blue paint with a pop art flair. Also located in the basement is a very creatively decorated game room with a pool table.

The grounds of Graceland also contain a stable for horses and a racquetball court that's been converted into a museum filled with gold records.

Aside of the fact that Graceland is Elvis's home and it's a very interesting home there's definitely a special feel about the place. For me there's a very powerful vibe there. Elvis was more than just a great musician. He was notoriously generous, extremely charismatic, and genuine. He did not like being alone and always had visitors. He shared a lot with many at Graceland and this I believe has made such a huge impression on the place.

The only downside to Graceland is how commerical its become. Fortunately it's separated from the souvenir shops etc. by a busy wide boulevard. Once your actually on the grounds and inside the home its pretty easy to get past the touristic aspect of it all but I visited on a day that wasn't very busy. In busier times it might not be as nice.

After Graceland I continued on to Sun Recording Studio. I was especially interested due to my appreciation of music and records. I could go on and on with the Sun story but I'm going to wrap up this post with some pictures my day in Memphis....

The Hiker - A Short Film - 1988

While attending the Evergreen State College in Olympia, Washington during 1988 I made a short film... It's now posted on the Internet for the world to see.. Enjoy!



All the hiker wants to do is get back to the wilderness. This semi epic tale starts with the hiker waking from a dream and finding himself lost in a city. After overcoming the challenge of locating a place to piss he eventually finds a road and makes his way towards the mountains. It appears as though the hiker is finding his direction but its clear to see somethings not quite right. For no apparent reason he starts tweeking out on contrast overload and is metaphorically and literally cornered. In the climatic ending something short circuits and he vaporizes into a puff of powder.

This film is a mix of experimental, comical, and improvisational techniques. Shot on silent 16mm film with funky old cameras. Music and narration was recorded separately on a Sony stereo cassette tape recorder. Directed and conceptualized by Todd Gilbreath while attending the Evergreen State College in Olympia, Washington during 1988. Lead character Todd Gilbreath. Filming by Todd Gilbreath, Corwin Bell and John Locke. Music and narration by Todd Gilbreath. Extras, included Tom Ferguson, Jenny Cleason, and Erik Petersen. With special appearance by Zero the dog. All scenes shot in Washington State and Vancouver, Canada.

Deep In The Heart Of Texas

It only seems fitting on my current Austin excursion to pay respects to Krishna, Radha, and Stevie Ray Vaughn. While visiting the Stevie monument I met members of the Hardcore Australian Band, Deez Nuts. Its kind of funny how nice an mild mannered hardcore punk musicians can be off stage. Many Thanks for the photo.

Back Home in Houston.... Again.....

I arrived back home in Houston late on September 10. Since then I’ve made fairly productive use of my time but I’m struggling at a juncture of transition. I really can’t complain about anything other than I feel myself falling back into a routine that hasn’t really gotten me where I need to go. Basically I want to meld my desire and love of travel with meaning and purpose. That, I am clear of. The hard part is figuring out how to do it and finding my direction. In order to initiate change I must make decisions otherwise I’ll remain stuck in the same old patterns. I discuss this predicament in greater detail in the post below.

The Riddle of Returning Home

Going home after a long journey is always a bit of a riddle for me. Generally, while traveling abroad, I ride a constant high of sorts and thrive off the excitement of the unknown. It’s easy to live in the moment and I’m always certain the experience will catapult me towards a new exciting direction when I return. However, once back, I almost always revert into an old familiar routine which doesn’t really feed my soul. I contemplate questions like, “What’s my true purpose”, “Why aren’t I using my creative talents”, and “What’s the next plan”. I’ll stagnate in a quandary, save up my nickles and dimes, then run off for another fix. Travel is my drug of choice. This is a riddle I’ve wrestled with for years.

Often an extended adventure, especially one involving a third world country, leaves the adventurous western traveler undeniably changed. Sometimes it’s subtle. Other times it can be quite profound if not life changing. Ironically, the return home can be more of an adjustment than the initial arrival at a dodgy foreign airport in the middle of the night. Usually home hasn’t changed much but through the eyes of a travelers experience it may appear oddly different. For the most part friends and acquaintances are generally the same and consumed by work and busyness. Aside of a recent long weekend, job promotion, or last months Bon Jovi concert there’s not always a lot to talk about in relation to where the traveler has been.

Home can be like white bread and head lettuce compared to the curries of India and robust cheeses of France. Difficult communication in a country where few speak English suddenly seems far more interesting than comprehending empty words spoken over alcohol induced rants during happy hour at a local bar.

At first home can be kind of refreshing. A familiar bed, shower, and mindless tv create a wonderful cushy environment. In no time, the traveler, weary from the road, falls back into a predictable monotone pattern of a comfortable yet deceptively stifling routine. The creative spark, fresh ideas, and endless amount of energy, abundant on the road, fade into a lethargic someday I’ll get around to it attitude. With money thin and inspiration dissolving like water spilled on hot pavement the traveler ponders a remedy, the next breakaway, another journey. Optimism tainted with delusion fuels the hope that a solution to life's mysteries is just around the next bend of a hairpin turn on some steep mountain road somewhere, somehow. A chance meeting, an idyllic location, the love of ones life. It’s all out there, just around the next turn. Hobbled by a low bank account focus and energy shift towards acquiring the necessary fuel for freedom, the almighty dollar. After all, there are bills to pay, responsibilities to take care of, and, things you really should be doing. The creative process suffers dearly.

For the long term traveler it’s easy to stay 2 steps ahead of this, that, and just about anything that would rather be avoided. On the road everyone has a story. Some are content to sit in a cafe all day while rolling their own cigarettes and reading semi autobiographical accounts of someone elses morphious adventure. Others make the most out of every moment and experience all a foreign country and culture have to offer. Some are on a whirlwind tour before the money runs out and they're forced to stop somewhere to figure out how they’ll get the resources to pick up and and move on again.

There are those who travel with a purpose, those who travel to run away, and those who just love to travel. For the long term low budget backpacker years can dissolve like sugar poured into a hot cup of Italian cappuccino. Between buses, trains, planes and countless miles walked along unfamiliar ground it can be easy to lose oneself within the freedom afforded by such a lifestyle. The myopic constraints of the so called “Real World” can be excessively suffocating. Adhering to status quo and the rules necessary to climb the ladder become exceedingly unappealing.

For the most part I feel incredibly spoiled, grossly selfish, yet incredibly lucky that I have the luxury to wallow about pondering my purpose while traipsing across the planet. In reality the rest of the world is way too busy just trying to meet basic survival needs. Therein lies the guilt within the riddle. Shouldn't I be doing something more meaningful? But then again, I love to travel....

In A Few Days.......

In a few days I’ll be back in Texas after being gone for almost 3 months. This trip got off to a rough start with being sick in England and taking a fall in the Pyrenees but things really turned around when I visited my Aunt and Uncle in Italy. After nearly two weeks in Italy I returned to France to live next to a pond in the Loire Valley for 3 weeks as I worked for the European Yoga Festival. From there it was back to what I really love doing and that’s long distance walking. The four week journey along the ancient Pilgrimage route, Chemin St Jacques, from Le Puy to St. Jean Pied Port was wonderful and passed way too quickly.

Despite having been gone for a good while this is one time that I feel like I could easily keep going. Considering I’ve spent less money than anticipated I could afford to keep traveling as long as I adhered to a backpacker camping style and did most all of my own food. I’ve considered jumping over to Corsica to hike some amazing trails and am very tempted to do so but somehow reluctantly feel like I need to stick to my original plan and return home as scheduled. Perhaps it’s better to utilize my time and resources for other ideas, plans, etc.

What’s been very different about this trip is that it hasn’t been about doing what I want to do most all of the time like most trips are. It’s been a little more about doing what feels right despite whether or not it’s really what I had in mind. In the end the outcome has been quite good and maybe even better than had I followed my original desires. It has definitely taken me places I hadn’t really planned with positive and constructive results. I’ll be making some changes when I return. It will be interesting to see where life takes me next…..

Parting Shots From The Chemin St. Jacques

Lourdes, France - A Visit To The Grotto

I arrived in Lourdes at 2:30 yesterday afternoon (Sunday) by train. I consulted my Lonely Planet guide and chose a small campground in a non touristic part of town. It’s nothing great but peaceful, shady and convenient for walking everywhere. It’s situated behind an old hotel of sorts and run by a nice friendly older couple who live on the premises. I paid 16 Euros for two nights (approx. 20 USD).

Sunday morning I was ready to get out of St Jean Pied Port. It felt a little odd being there for some reason. The touristic atmosphere coupled with sardine style camping in a town lot surrounded by old fortress walls made an otherwise appealing village unappealing. I have wonderful memories of starting my Camino de Santiago in St Jean two years ago but the packs of new Pilgrims showing up fresh and smelling of laundry detergent made me not want to taint fond memories with new less desirable impressions. In other words, I’ve been there, done that, and didn’t feel a need to stick around. The upside is I that slept really well in the packed campground.

Lourdes is a very interesting place in a gorgeous setting situated at the base of the Pyrenees Mountains. The primary reason for the attraction to Lourdes is that a young girl experienced 18 visions of the Virgin Mary in a nearby Grotto during the year of 1858. The visions were confirmed as authentic by the Catholic Church and she was declared a Saint of sorts in 1933. Since the visions the Grotto has become a holy shrine with a spring flowing from it whose waters are believed to have miraculous healing qualities. Not only has the grotto become a shrine but the whole surrounding area is a sanctuary with cathedral and numerous other buildings. All set in a park like atmosphere.

After setting up camp I wandered over to the center of town. From there I followed signs marked “Grotto”. It wasn’t long before I found myself in the midst of tourist hell. Shop after shop of Virgin Mary paraphernalia, overpriced stores, and surely subpar eateries clog streets and walkways. The plastic Virgin Mary water bottles and the made in Italy Lourdes magnets caught my eye but I didn’t give in. Probably made by a mafia run company?

The shops were kind of interesting in a gaudy sort of way but I was more than happy to enter the confines of the sanctuary which reveal a much different atmosphere. The grounds are quite nice with no shops. Just a few stalls for candles and small water bottles with a place to deposit the suggested donation for the items. A large cathedral sits above the grotto and although lacking the mystic of other much older cathedrals it’s still quite impressive in a more modern sense.

I decided to visit the Grotto first and was lucky to find a short line. In no time I found myself entering the site. I allowed a hand to run across smooth stone walls polished by years and thousands, if not millions of visitors, as I passed through. From a natural beauty standpoint the grotto is nothing special but I will say there is definitely a strong feeling there. A vibe or energy of sorts. It's likely due to an impression left by so much attention given to the site but regardless there is something special going on.

Walking through the grotto doesn’t last long as attendants keep people moving. At the end I there are rows and rows of candle stalls with each candle being donated by visitors.

Afterwards I continued on to a wall of spigots that dispense the healing water that supposedly comes from the spring. I filled up my own liter sized container and a small glass souvenir bottle that I picked up for a 1 Euro donation. Many, many people were doing the same. All hoping that in some way they will receive a healing blessing of some sort.

The crowd of visitors is made up mostly of older people. Many arrive in wheel chairs and obviously have some serious health issues. At 44 I almost felt like a youngster. The youth of France is too busy smoking cigarettes in cafes and probably doesn’t have much interest yet. Most everyone on the grounds appeared western and or European but I was surprised to see a number of East Indians with woman dressed in traditional garb. Although the sanctuary and grotto are Catholic to the core all faiths are welcome to visit.

As I was walking amidst the Cathedral and admiring some impressive murals a crowd was forming outside. People began to sing and organize into a large parade. From a hilltop view outside the doors of the church I could see a mass of people moving. Leading the front was a large row of caregivers dressed in white followed by a large number in wheel chairs then thousands of others walking. Music and singing went on as the parade slowly moved towards exiting the grounds. At the end was a large group that appeared to be monks. I don’t know if the parade is a daily occurrence or just a Sunday happening but it was quite pleasant to watch and a substantial display of faith.

Are people really healed by visiting the Grotto? They say around 40 or so unexplained medically proven cures are a result of visiting Lourdes. The remedy varies depending on the individual. Some say it was praying there while others say it was drinking or bathing in the water. Who knows for sure? Regardless, I do believe there is a lot of power in faith and belief. That in of itself has been proven to do great and miraculous things.

I remember an old bible story where a woman was trying to get to Jesus so she could be healed. She got close enough to him so she could touch his clothing. He acknowledged her and responded by telling her to go. He then went on to say that it was her faith that healed her.

It's About The Journey

Early this afternoon I walked through old fortress gates into the Basque village of St. Jean Pied de Port thus completing my walk of the Chemin St. Jacques from Le Puy. Combined with my walk of the Camino de Santiago in 2008 I’ve know covered around 1,000 miles of medieval pilgrimage route across France and Spain to the city of Santiago de Compostella.

As with most all long distance walks, for me, the finish is bittersweet. In some regards I’m happy to be done as the goal has been reached and I’m usually a bit tired but ironically I generally don’t feel much of a hurrah celebratory sense of accomplishment or anything like that. I’m mostly just happy and grateful to have had the experience. The real joy comes out of the journey and not the destination. The destination is an end and a completion while the journey holds ones attention by regularly revealing something new. The days and miles of physical activity, breathing fresh air, and thinking about everything and nothing are what I like the most. The beautiful landscapes, mountains, and villages enhance the experience which makes it all the more special.

Tonight I’ll stay in St Jean Pied de Port but tomorrow morning I’ll hop on a train and head to Lourdes for a couple of nights. I’ve long been intrigued by the healing phenomenon and miraculous cures brought on by multiple appearances of the Virgin Mary in a grotto during the year of 1858. It seems appropriate going to Lourdes since I’m so close and have been walking along an ancient Pilgrimage route for the past month. I’ll now join the masses of a different kind of modern day Pilgrim as people today travel to Lourdes from all over the world to be healed.

In The Foothills Of The Pyrenees

Almost 4 weeks of constant walking with a backpack is finally starting to make me feel a little tired. Today I had enough sense to cut it short and stopped after walking only 20k (12.5 miles). The fact that I stumbled across an old farmhouse, turned gite, situated with a grand view amidst the Pyrenean foothills made it a little easier to call it a day. Oh, the pool is a nice bonus.

For 3.50 Euros I have a grand campsite upon a grassy lawn (photo above). The farmhouse is located about a mile from the village of Aroue which doesn’t have anything but a cathedral, chateau and a few other buildings. The enterprising owners of the gite have the good sense to have a small store on premises and charge a fair price for the items on stock. I purchased some Cassoulet Au Confit De Canard for dinner as well as the petit dejeuner for tomorrow morning. Cassoulet with Confit is a mix of white beans and duck. It’s typical of the region and very good. Dejeuner is a typical French breakfast which is bread, jam, coffee and sometimes fruit and cereal. There are five other walkers staying at the gite and I think the owners did quite well at the store this evening.

In the time I’ve been on the Camino St Jacques I’ve only met four other Americans. Some villages and gites keep statistics on where Pilgrims are from. Out of the 4 Americans I’ve met, oddly enough, two are from Ft Worth, Texas. They are a newly retired couple who sold everything they own and now travel the world with 2 backpacks and 4 suitcases. They stashed the suitcases in Paris and are walking all the way from Le Puy, France to Santiago, Spain.
Last year it appears as though around 15 to 20 Americans walked on the Camino St Jacques in France. Prior to last year there were only a couple, if that, a year. I’m referring to people who walked as Pilgrims. Not the occasional American tourist out for a day walk. In Spain I’m sure the numbers are higher.

My Texan status seems to go over well with the French. From what I can tell I’m the first real live born and bred Houston, Texan to walk the Camino St Jacques. The French all want to know where’s my hat and horse. I just tell them I couldn’t get ‘em on the plane and we all get a good laugh out of it. Occasionally people still make references to the long defunct television series Dallas.

Tomorrow I intend to walk another relatively short day through a section that is supposed to offer excellent views of the Pyrenees. It's also predicted to be clear and sunny so I'm looking forward to it. I now plan to complete my walk on Saturday in St. Jean Pied de Port. Interestingly enough September 4th will be exactly 25 years since my completion of the Appalachian Trail in 1985.