Jodhpur

October 4, 2009...Had I not stayed in Ranakapur it would have been a long all day trip to Jodhpur. My night there was a great way to break up the trip. After a quick breakfast of vegetable cutlet and chai I set out to catch the 8 am bus. As I was waiting for the bus I talked with several locals that were waiting to go to work. They asked me, “What country” and a host of other questions. These guys were fine and friendly. Indians can be very inquisitive. They asked my age and if I was married. They were shocked to find out that I was 44 and not married. There was a little bit of a language barrier but one of the guys spoke ok English with a heavy accent. I told them that I had never been married and had no kids. They were even more puzzled by that statement and chatted back in for in Hindi until they figured it out. They then told me I was married with kids in my last life and it caused me many problems. They went on to explain in detail but I couldn’t understand. They were very sure of it. Two busses showed up about the same time and they made sure I got on the right bus. Whenever I take a bus it always seems like there’s someone around to make sure I get on the right one. It’s kind of funny. Anyway, my morning was off to a good start and now I know why I’m single in this life.

The bus ride was nice as I stared at the arid countryside and we stopped at villages along the way. At one point we passed some really impressive massive granite domes rising above the flat scrubby desert horizon. One of the domes appears to have a temple on top. The old climber in me reawoke as I contemplated route possibilities and wished I had a car to get me there.

At one point, during the ride on a busy 2 lane highway, I made the mistake of looking forward through the front window to get the drivers view. I’d say near head on collisions were happening at about 1 minute intervals as vehicles passed one another frequently. Totally amazing. Any westerner who has any desire to rent a car and drive around India is absolutely insane. There’s an entirely different method to driving in India. It’s absolutely crazy but works incredibly well. Just don’t try and understand it. It makes no sense.

Jodhpur is a very busy bustling city in a desert environment. It’s hectic, dirty, and dusty but the old town and Fort Meherangarh are very interesting. I took a rickshaw to the train station to get my bearings and went from there. With tips from my guidebook I found my way to a suggested guest house in the old city but wasn’t able to get a room there. I walked a little further and found a better place..
It’s a family run guest house known as a Havelli. It’s constructed of concrete and brick with several floors. Steep steps, thick doors with heavy latches, and fortress like wood shutters give the place a rustic old world feel. The kicker is the rooftop. From the roof you have a front row view of the Fort and the surrounded blue painted buildings. Jodhpur is known as the blue city. The rooms are very nice if not a little luxurious. Since it’s my birthday I booked in for two nights at $24 a night. As always the price includes taxes and/or any other fees.

Staying in a Havelli is a little like staying with a family. They can help with a number of things, fix you food, arrange for a rickshaw etc. The mother and daughter fixed me a nice traditional talli for dinner. In the evening, as I sat on the roof, I listened to Muslim prayers being shouted over loud speakers and bells chiming after prayers as Hindus and Muslims both freely and openly practice their faith at the same time.