Holland - Velo & Veluwe

Two nights in Harderwijk at the Dutch Redneck campground were enough. I hadn’t been sure as to what I was going to do next but sent a message, via Facebook, to a woman I had met in 2008 on the Camino de Santiago in Spain. It just so happened that she and her husband live about 30 miles from Harderwijk. After a few exchanges of messages she said I was welcome to stay with them and that they could pick me up on Sunday around noon.

Joyce and Gert are an active retired couple around 60. Joyce worked as a therapist, manager, and life coach. Gert finished off his 34 year naval career as a captain. With their kids grown and seeking a simpler more adventurous life they sold off their larger assets, home, etc. and downsized. They the bought a VW Westfalia campervan for extended road trips and a small one bedroom pre fab home in a very nice caravan park for a home base. In America you might refer to it as a holiday trailer park. It’s situated in a very desirable forested area amidst nature preserves and national parks. Each site it surrounded a by a tall hedgerow for privacy and everything is kept neat and orderly.

For my stay they offered me the floor space in their small living room or the campervan in the driveway. I chose the campervan and it’s been very comfortable.

Since my arrival we have enjoyed lots of really good conversation. Much of it has been philosophical and introspective with plenty of substance. For Joyce, her walk on the Camino was the beginning of a new chapter as she and her husband have since taken up a life of travel and reflection while they spend their children’s inheritance. Although we may have different backgrounds with a bit of a generation gap there are commonalities that make us kindred spirits of sorts.

On Sunday afternoon we went for a really nice walk along trails within a nature preserve which is more or less in their backyard. The terrain is mostly flat and the soil is very sandy. Forests carpeted with relatively short grass, heather, and fern flourish over old stagnant sand dunes. While the trees provide a nice canopy they are spread out a bit. The open space above the ground, around, and beneath the trees provides an appealing landscape within the forest. Mixed hues of brown and green coupled with varied lighting creates a mythical contrast between shadows. Occasionally deer and wild brown haired goats can be seen. The trees surround an open area of exposed wind swept sand and short brush. What should be a field or meadow looks more like something you might find before reaching sand dunes along a beach. It’s all very beautiful and pleasant. Located in the middle of the Netherlands. The area is known as the Veluwe.

Monday turned out to be a rain day. We biked a short distance to a store that sells locally grown and produced foods. They also have a common area where you can enjoy coffee and bake goods. We spent the day conversing about all sorts of topics from politics, to religion, to things in general while toasting the good life and appreciating the freedoms we enjoy.

Today, Tuesday, started with heavy rain but cleared early. We got off to a good start and hopped on bikes for a few kilometers to De Hoge Veluwe National Park. The park is a nice size with a large network of hiking trails and bike only paths. What’s really wonderful is that free bikes are included with entry. There are a number of stations all over the park which make it easy to mix up hiking and biking. All you have to do is pick a bike, drop it at another station, hike to the next station, and ride back to where you started. It’s all very convenient.

The Dutch are a very bike oriented culture so you see every type of person riding along the scenic paths. Old, young, overweight, fit, and all the in between readily take up cycling. It’s the best way to see the park. Void are the grand parades of large cars and monster RV’s that plague the National Parks of the USA. I’m very impressed with the Dutch model and it appears to work very well for their culture. I’m not sure how it would work in America. The appealing ease of biking on mostly flat land of makes the Dutch system desirable in Holland.

De Hogue Veluwe National Park consists of more landscape and terrain like I’ve already described but bigger, broader, with facilities and paved bike paths. The weather held out all day as we enjoyed sunny skies with a cool breeze in the evening.

My time in the Netherlands is turning out to be quite nice and pleasant. I definitely want to visit Amsterdam and the Dutch coast at some point. I’ll see where tomorrow takes me.

 

I'm In Holland

I wasn’t impressed by the campsite, an oversized plot, half grass, half dirt and no shade. It was set in the middle of a bunch of second rate caravan trailers with cheap tent extension. Kids were running around. Some sites looked a little junky and seasonally permanent. The sky was gray and it was starting to rain. Being late in the day I figured I best make the most of it.

The site I was originally assigned was not good for me and my small tent. It was better suited for parking. I spotted an acceptable vacant site backed up to a fence between two decent looking caravans. It was grassy. I returned to the reception and asked if I could have the other site. It was reserved but not due to be used in few days. I got the ok and set up my one man tent looking little out of place.

I figured I’d leave first thing in the morning but decided to stay. Surprisingly the campsite was very quiet through the night and I slept well. Not sure it will be the same for tonight, Saturday.

Yesterday I caught a ride from Brussels, Belgium to Harderwijk, Netherlands. I parted ways with Richard and his wife at their local village train stop after a wonderful visit. Their generosity and help was greatly appreciated. I hope I get the chance to return the favor someday.  I think the timing was just right for all of us but it was time to move one. It would be a short train ride with one easy change to Brussels to catch my ride.

I found the ride via an online rideshare site called Blah Blah. It’s a site where people offer rides and in return the passenger(s) pays an amount, set by the driver, to help pay for gas.

It turned out to be a 3 hour drive with a very nice middle aged woman who commutes between Holland and Belgium for work. The cost was 12 Euros and we enjoyed good conversation the whole way. Upon arrival she dropped me at tourist information.

Well, tourist information did not make the best first impression. The woman working there was lacking customer service skills and not particularly helpful. I felt like I kind of had to direct her. She had very few suggestions. At first I didn’t really get the impression she was all that interested in her job but she did seem to warm up a little as my questions became more specific. It might be that she didn’t really know all that much. What got me though is how they charge for tourist brochures. Advertising brochures with tourists maps, that you would expect to get for free, cost anywhere from 1 to 3 euros. One map, that cost 3 euros at tourist information, I picked up for free at a Caravan park today.

So, Let me back up a bit…… I wound up staying at Richard’s place longer than planned. On Tuesday evening I experienced an episode of Vertigo, spinning dizziness. I’ve only had it happen twice in the past. The last time was in the late 1990’s.

We had just started dinner on the back terrace when I started to feel it coming on. I stepped up out of my chair and felt myself lean way to the left and almost fell. For the next hour I felt like I was spinning like a top even though I was perfectly still. Richard got a cot for me to lay on and bucket as I was feeling nauseous. The fortunate thing is that I pretty much knew what was going on as I’ve had some issues with my right ear for a long time but have been thoroughly checked out in the recent past. For me, vertigo is a rare possibility. It has to do with fluid deep within the ear.

The next day, Wednesday, Richard’s wife took me to their local Dr. who turned out be great. She made sure I didn’t have an ear infection and prescribed a medicine that is specific to the problem. I’ve never heard of the medication but it looks to be ok with low side effects. I went ahead a got it but am not taking it for now. For whatever reason I don’t think it is available in the USA.

Regardless, I needed to extend my stay a couple of days to make sure I was ok and that the vertigo is indeed a rare event for me. The following day, after the episode, I still felt a little wobbly. On Thursday I returned to normal activity with a morning run and a scenic 35 km bike ride through the countryside known as Horstroute. I felt fine again.

Thursday evening I debated what to do but knew I was ready to move on. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to go to Holland or not but decided it made a lot of sense because I was so close. It’s an easy place to travel and everyone speaks English as a second language. Not to mention it's the land of windmills, Van Gogh, and Amsterdam.

I may have second guessed myself about Holland soon after arriving but I knew I had to give things a chance. Today, Saturday, turned out to be a nice day even though it rained buckets for a couple of hours midday.

Holland is all about the bike. There are bike trails and bike paths everywhere. Drivers yield to cyclists. Cyclists have the right of way. Since the country is flat it’s easy riding everywhere. So, this afternoon I did a nice lovely loop through the forests, villages, and farmlands. It rained hard for about an hour but cleared up to be really nice later in the afternoon.

When I got back to the campground I kind of had to laugh. I saw a guy moving a beer refrigerator to hook up outside his caravan. Groups of shirtless tattooed guys were hanging around in groups talking with one another. Kids were playing in large covered pool that didn’t look all that appealing. I heard stereo music coming from a couple caravans but not too loud. Although some of the permanent trailers look pretty tidy it’s a varied mix with some looking gaudy or junky. The toilet/shower block is barely ok, not quit adequate, but clean enough. Of course there are no seats on the toilets. I noticed the onsite bar/restaurant was advertising bingo night. It was then that I realized I’m in a Dutch Redneck campground. As Jeff Foxworthy, the famous redneck comedian says, “Rednecks are everywhere”. It's not just a southern American thing.

Today my impression of Holland was much better than yesterday and I’ve always gotten along well with the Dutch while traveling the world. We’ll see where the Netherlands takes me…

I Saw The Queen Of Belgium!

Today is an official do nothing day even though I’ve been surfing the internet for half the day. I also went for a nice run in the morning. Belgium has turned into a pit stop as I continue to catch up with Richard at his home in the countryside near Leuven. He and his family invited me to continue our visit at their place. When they left Nieuwpoort I hopped a train as their car was way too packed. The train was very reasonably priced, easy, and I like trains. Typical of most Europeans is that they drive small cars and when they go on vacation they pack it FULL.

The countryside around Richard’s is nothing too special but very nice and pleasant. There’s a wide variety of bike routes and trails. I’m especially impressed by the numbered bike routes and how they are well marked with tin signs at intersections.

On Sunday I joined the family as we dropped off their son at a scout tent camp in a region of the country known as the Ardenne. On Monday it was Belgium Independence day so Richard and I went to Brussels where we saw the Queen of Belgium waving from a car at the beginning of a large military parade. We also got a chance to roam the streets a bit.

Something interesting in a nearby park was a good display old United States World War Two vehicles and related items with some re-enactment sets. When the war in Europe ended, the Americans left a wealth of goods, equipment, etc. that wasn’t worth bringing back to the states. Over the years it’s all been picked up by collectors and war buffs throughout Europe. Many of the Belgians displaying their jeeps and trucks were wearing original American WW2 attire.  The reason for the display was to pay tribute to WW2 allied forces as Belgium Independence day seems to be mostly about honoring the military and those who have served. In one set they did a really good job of showing what a U.S. Military PX (store for soldiers) looked like when allied forces took over. A Belgian woman speaking French in period attire hosted the site.

Richard and his wife Carla continue to spoil me with their gracious generosity. I must move on in couple of days before I get too comfortable. The timing for the visit seems to be perfect and it’s been a really good chance for me to catch up on rest. Their home is in a rural setting and situated on a plot of land near railroad tracks beneath the flight path of jets coming into land at Brussels. There’s also a rooster next door that crows just about any time but more so early in the morning. The sounds of planes, trains, and roosters don’t bother me.

As is the case with most long term travel the lovely question as to what to do next comes knocking at different stages in the journey. Sometimes a, “I’ve had enough”, feeling comes on but after a few days it goes away and I embark on new segment. Other times it’s a, “Ok! Let’s do that!”, kind of feeling.  Sometimes it's just time to go home. Right now the feeling for me is somewhere in between as I ponder the next step.

From Brussels I can easily get to just about anywhere in Europe. The online ride boards offer plenty of options. Buses, planes, and most trains are reasonably priced. Part of me wants to return to England, do a little walking, and head on home. Another part of me wants to see a few more places I’ve never been. After all, I know it's Damn Hot In Houston, Texas right now!

One thing for sure is that the summer holiday season in Europe is now set full throttle until the end of August. Tourist crowds can definitely detract from a number of options.

Nieuwpoort, Belgium - Catching Up With An Old Friend

From the Chamonix valley it was a bit of a riddle as to how to get to the Belgium coast economically. Ideally I could have caught a ride with someone or taken an inexpensive bus but the bus wasn’t all that cheap and ran through the middle of the night. Finding a ride takes initiative and a little luck. I posted a last minute ride request on a local internet board and checked a rideshare website. There were ride options but none in the direction I was headed.

French trains are good but not cheap. A per hour rate for distance covered can vary greatly. In USD, at the current exchange rate, an hour traveled by train can cost anywhere from $25 to $75. Advance purchase, a month or two ahead of time, usually provides a much better deal. If you are bit of a sleuth and don’t mind doing a lot of investigating via confusing websites you might find a good last minute deal. The French site is not very efficient and will often send you on a route that is not the best. Another annoying fact is that the French site will not always recognize or acknowledge a station that exists. At the very least it pays to look at a route map and try different routings as well as purchasing route legs separately. Also, times of day can make a big difference. Leave at 8 am and it costs 40 euros. Leave at 10 am and it costs 25 euros.

By trying different routes I found a way to get to Dunkurque. It’s a 30 minute drive from my desired destination of Nieuwpoort on the Belgian coast. The route took me back through Lyon where I could catch a direct high speed train to Lille then a local train to Dunkurque. The price was expensive and barely acceptable but it was the easiest and most efficient option. I figured all the pennies pinched in the Alps over the last 2 weeks made it perfectly ok.

From Chamonix I rode the rails to Lyon where I got off for a night and was able to stay at Fredric’s yoga studio again. I really like Lyon. It’s a city that feels good to me. In the evening I walked to a lovely park with a lake and felt very relaxed.

The following morning I walked to the train station, Lyon Part Dieu. The high speed TGV was 20 minutes late but I had almost an hour in Lille to catch the local train to Dunkurque. If I were a dis-honest man I could have ridden the whole way for free. No one checked my ticket even though I saw officials on two trains. They looked like they couldn’t be bothered with checking tickets. I figure in France you only have about a 10 to 20% chance of getting caught if you ride without a ticket. If you do get caught I think they just make you buy a ticket for the entire route. As long as you cooperate with paying whatever they ask for I doubt you would get in much trouble. Anyone can get on or off any train at any time. There are no gates or anything to stop you.

So, Why Belgium? The reason goes back 37 years. In 5^th grade there was a boy named Richard whose family had moved to Houston from Holland. His father worked for Shell Oil Company and had been transferred to Texas for one year. Richard spoke little English and was different which made him interesting to me. We were good friends all through the school year and exchanged a few letters after he returned to Holland before losing track of each other all together.

For Richard it was a big experience and one he has many memories of. About 3 or 4 years ago he tracked me down on the internet via my blog and friended me on facebook. Naturally, thanks to social media, he knew I was currently traveling in Europe and invited me to visit him in Belgium where he now lives. The timing was really good for me to join him and his family while on vacation in Nieuwpoort where they have an apartment near the beach for a week. After the cold rainy Alps a beach sounded really good!

Richard met me at the train station in Dunkurque. After not seeing each other for 37 years it may have seemed a little strange at first but not really. Richard and I are both easy going and hit it off right away.

Richard is married with two kids, 7 and 10, and couldn’t have a nicer more hospitable family. His wife Carla is very welcoming. By time I arrived she was well on her way to constructing a nice feast for an early dinner. Richard and I drank a beer on the 6^th floor deck. As Carla set the table we swapped stories based on what we could remember when we were 11 and 12 years old. Later in the evening we swam in sea and sat on the beach talking while the kids played in the water and sand. Very generously they offered me a room to myself for a 3 night stay.

Nieuwpoort is a popular and busy modern seaside resort town next to a canal the leads to a Marina. There’s long broad sandy beach front packed with condo’s and restaurants.  Boards, bricks and stones pave a wide pedestrian path with a large buffer between shore and water. The tide is pretty big. Everything is geared to be easy for families so there are lots of kids. The beach can be packed during the day but virtually empty in the morning and late evening. The architecture is a bit new, straight and square. The structures lack personality but it's a nice place with a pleasant feel. A long pier with a beacon and a large oddly out of place English Tudor style building add a bit of character.

I arrived on a Wednesday and on Thursday Carla drove us all over the countryside to visit a WW1 monument, trenches, and the WW1 commonwealth cemetery. The region of Belgium I am currently in saw an abundance of horrific fighting. My knowledge of WW1 is limited so I found the day to be very interesting. I was also very unaware of how many soldiers died during the war. In one Belgian battle, lasting 100 days, there were over 500,000 casualties. In total around 10 million military personnel and 7 million civilians were killed with another 20 million wounded during the entirety of WW1.

After a day of driving around looking for WW1 sites in a packed car with warm weather and no air conditioning we were all a little tired. Richard and I took a beer break while Carla got things in order to go out for dinner at a restaurant by the sea. For two nights in a row I’ve eaten very well and have slept great in a real bed.

After all the sightseeing of Thursday we declared Friday as a go nowhere but the beach day. I got up before everyone else and went out for a nice run. I started off to my right along the beachfront and down the pier with a beacon where I retraced steps to a boardwalk and path towards the Marina. I headed back via a park trail before re-accessing the boardwalk to the beachfront where I headed the other direction. At the far end I left the pedestrian front for the packed sand uncovered by a low tired and doubled back to near where I began. I finished near a jetty where I walked out towards the sea to a flock of seagulls milling about the wet salty green moss stone. When I arrived back at the apartment Richard and his family were just getting ready for breakfast.

As with all my travels l like to mix it up. I guess you could call this a “Family Time” segment as I catch up with an old friend.

 

 

Tour du Mont Blanc - In The Can

July 12 was a day off as rain blew in and out of the Chamonix valley. We traded our base of Les Houches for a campground in Les Bosson where there are a number to choose from. We found an acceptable yet very wet grassy corner backed up to a hedgerow with the tongue of a large glacier peaking below the cloud line above us.

To escape the rain we walked over to an adjoining campground with a restaurant. It was into the evening but I guess they weren’t really open yet as a woman was mopping the floors and casually setting place mats. We took a table, ordered some cheap table wine, and fiddled with my laptop and the internet.

Around 7 pm Deb wanted to order some food but the waitress was busy with other things while taking a smoke break with some people outside in the back. Around 7:30 a few wet campers showed up. The waitress got right to helping them and seemed to treat us as if we were invisible. Around 7:45 we must have re-appeared in the waitress’s eyes as Deb was finally able to order some kind of potato casserole dish.

The kitchen was separate in the back but attached with and adjoining deck where friends and workers affiliated with the campground gathered to socialize. They ate and smoked in a casual fashion as the restaurant started to get a little busy. The waitress’s smoke breaks became brief at best.

Despite being a restaurant in a campground with semi-professional wait staff the food coming out of the kitchen and across the smoking deck might be considered fine dining in some places. I’ve seen this before in France, amazing food coming out of a place you wouldn’t really expect. All of the Fondue’s, salad’s etc. looked great. Deb’s dish turned out to be sautéed potatoes with mushrooms in a nice cream sauce sandwiched between something like pasta. The serving was large so she shared a bit. 

The following morning, July 13, was supposed to be halfway nice but it had rained all night and conditions did not appear to be improving. Despite more bad weather we really wanted to finish the last official bit of the Tour Du Mont Blanc. We debated waiting another day for better weather so we could get the views but chose to get it done and took the Planpraz lift back up to where I left off.

As the lift swept us up into the rainy clouds and to the top of a socked in ridge we wondered if we were doing the right thing but in the end the weather was quite manageable. The rain let up and clouds broke for brief periods to offer limited but atmospheric views. Atmospheric is a nice way of rephrasing bad weather to make it not seem so bad.

In less than 5 hours we found ourselves back in Les Houches via the official route. The valley cleared a bit but clouds still clung to the peaks and ridges. The hike was officially in the Can.

Monday, July 14, the weather was starting to improve but still unsettled. We decided to take advantage of a free train pass that from the campground that allowed us to ride the rails all we wanted between Servos and Vallorcine. What we didn’t realize is that it was Bastille Day. On top of that the train was having some kind of mechanical problem. Anyway, going to Vallorcine from Les Bosson and back turned out to be an exhausting all day affair with last minute cancelled busses and trains . However, the day was not a total loss with a nice crepe lunch at a small, kind of goofy, old west themed play park in Vallorcine. The Vallorcine valley was mostly clear and the sun popped out for a while. The mountain back drop is very similar to something you might see in Montana.

With one night left at the campground I needed to pay but reception is only open for 2 ½ hours in the morning and 2 ½ hours in the evening. As a camper it’s your responsibility to be there during the specific set times to pay, however, the office may open late and close early. I missed my opportunity. For better or worse I am an honest man so I needed to figure out how to pay. I needed to leave early the following morning before the office opened. There was no drop box or payment envelopes like you see in America.

By chance I figured out that the adjoining campground with restaurant owned the campground I was camped at. With a little hassle I was able to talk to someone at the restaurant and explain how I was not able to pay. A teenage girl with plenty of attitude told me I had to pay at the office when it was open. I told her I would be gone by then and I really wanted to pay that evening. This confused her so she went and got help. Another teenage girl appeared. She understood my predicament but wasn’t sure how to handle it. I asked if she had piece of paper and/or envelope. I then suggested she right down my name and site number, attach it to my payment, and pass it on to whoever was supposed to get it in the morning. Wow! We had a solution. Luckily, I had exact change.

With two weeks in the Alps and Chamonix Valley coupled by lots of foul weather camping Deb and I were ready to leave. The town of Chamonix, although very beautiful, is a bit over the top with loads of outdoor oriented tourists, baristas with attitude, and plenty of ego.

Of course the weather was perfect on the day we planned to leave, Tuesday, July 15, with a normal sunny seasonal summer forecast for the week. We parted ways around 7 am. I know Deb was anxious to get back to her boyfriend Esteban, dog Jake, and vegetable garden. When it comes to backpacking Deb is very experienced, independent, and walks with a steady pace which makes her a good hiking partner. She’s good to go.

For Deb it was back home via Geneva but for me it was a riddle as to how to get to Belgium coast at a reasonable price.

Tour Du Mont Blanc - Photos Mixte!

Tour Du Mont Blanc - Negoitating Weather & Ladders

Although we considered taking a little time off the Tour Du Mont Blanc in Champex we found ourselves caught up in the rhythm of a daily hiking routine. The terrain from Champex over Bovine to Col Forclaz did not look bad for foul weather so we pressed on.

As everyday on the Tour Du Mont Blanc the day started with a grinding climb. Only on this day it was a steep climb up to a socked in mountain side with cold rain mixed sleet. We ducked into the refuge at Bovine before continuing to the Col de la Forclaz where the trail meets a road meets with a nice Swiss lodge. Once again we stopped. This time we indulged in some fine fresh made Strawberry marzipan. Don’t ask what we paid but it was extremely good. From the Col we shuffled down muddy trail to the villages of Trient and Peuty past a church painted pink.

With the high cost of Swiss accommodation it was a village campsite in Peuty for the night. We opted to spend our money on overpriced beer and wine while staying warm and dry in local village hotel bar for the evening.

July 10

More rain and cloud with fresh snow down to around 1800 meters. The official route would take us up high for a long ridge walk. The bad weather variant route would take us over a col and down to the village of La Tour. Either way we were headed back to the Chamonix Valley where we started.

Again, another morning climb. Only this time we would see the worst conditions yet. As expect we hiked up to the snow line where wet snow thickened as we ascended and the wind picked up. By time we got to the top at Col de Balme it was downright miserable textbook hypothermia weather. It was an easy decision to take the variant instead of heading onward and upward for an exposed 3 hour hike along ridgeline before descending. We paused at hut situated on top of the col for coffee served via a quirky old lady seemingly out of place.

We descended directly down from the col into a ski area and quickly escaped the wind negotiating very muddy trails as everyone seemed to have the same idea to avoid the exposed ridge. It didn’t take long to reach Le Tour and Montroc where the bad weather variant re-joined the official route. With more nasty weather forecast and our arrival back into the Chamonix valley we adjusted our game plan.

At the bottom of the valley there is a very pleasant forest walk known as the Petite Balcony. Essentially all we really needed to do to complete a full hiking route around Mont Blanc was to follow the valley trail to Les Houches where we started. We both liked the idea of hiking on, completing the loop, then day hiking the remaining 15 miles or so of the official route during the next day or two as weather permitted. It just made sense.

From Montroc we followed Le Petite Balcony south to Chamonix where we crossed the river and continued on to Les Houches via Le Petite Balcony north. In Chamonix we had tourist information call and reserve two beds at the hostel (Gite) in Les Houches for the night.

It was a little bittersweet finishing the way we did but it was the sensible and smart thing to do.

July 11

I didn’t really sleep all that well at the hostel as I’ve gotten so use to camping in the rain in a tent. It’s funny how one adjusts and gets comfortable in different situations. A tent affords an element of privacy that a room shared with strangers doesn’t.

In the early morning light I could see a little blue sky. Deb and I rallied to take advantage of a possible short break in the weather. We caught the train from Les Houches to Montroc and got back on the official route to see if we could complete it in a day with light day packs.

The hiking above Montroc gets pretty interesting as steep trail runs into sections of vertical ladders to give access to the side of a high ridge known as the Grand Balcony. On a clear day the word, “Outrageous”, does not do the view justice. With clouds and rain blowing in and out we caught occasional views with hopeful moments for sun.

By time we got to La Flegere we met up with one of several ski trams that offer access to hiking in the summer from Chamonix. We debated going down since the clouds were building and thickening again. I felt like carrying on. Deb didn’t see a reason to because there would be no views. Deb chose to go down. I chose to go on to the next lift at Planpraz. By time I reached Planpraz, a few kilometers later, the clouds were so thick that it was hard to find the lift. From Planpraz it’s a about a 4 to 5 hour hike to complete the official route but the day was getting a little late and things were not getting better. I descended to Chamonix via a roundtrip ticket on the Gondola. To be continued in a day or two.

Well, it’s Saturday, July 12. I camped last night at the saturated village campground in Les Houches where it rained most the night. I awoke with a tent covered with slugs. Deb stayed another night at the hostel and we met up in the morning at a café bar where we have been for the last two and a half hours. After 9 days of continuous hiking we are taking an official rest day. Tomorrow morning is supposed to be nice for a little while before rains set in again in the afternoon. The plan is to catch the lift early to where we left off and finish the final bit by early afternoon. In a couple of days we will be parting ways and leave the Chamonix valley regardless. Hopefully for warm sunny summer weather!

 

 

On The Tour du Mont Blanc

It’s July 8^th and day six on the Tour du Mont Blanc. I’m in Champex, Switzerland and once again the weather is horrible. I’ve got a nice wet tent pitched in the village campground as Swiss prices dictate I do so. It’s about a 3 day hike to complete the Tour but the forecast is bad for the next few days. Deb and I are contemplating the option of not hiking for a couple of days. I have not had the time nor much of an opportunity to update the blog but I did get a bit of writing done in a hut one night. Aside of one hut it’s been a camping trip. Up until now we have negotiated the weather well with most of the bad stuff coming in late in the day. So, let me bring you up to where I am now.

The weather on July 2 was pure crap with no sign of clearing so by early afternoon Deb made the executive decision to go to Chamonix for the rest of the day.

It was a short ride by train to the main station. Chamonix is a jacked up mountain resort town with plenty of ego in one heck of an impressive valley. It’s set at the base of a long line of glaciated peaks including Mont Blanc and is considered the birthplace of mountaineering. It’s not uncommon to see people walking around in climbing gear, late in the afternoon, after descending via a number of trams that offer easy access to the upper slopes of many mountains. Chamonix is a blend of classic alpine France and plain ‘ol mountain town tourism. Prices are high, very high, but the mountains command a visit. It’s a damn beautiful place.

The following day, July 3, the weather was perfect. It was a great day to start a 100 mile hike around Mont Blanc that will take us through 3 countries. We started out with a steep climb up and out of the valley through a ski area to Col de Voza. From there we had a choice of taking a variant high route towards the slopes of Mont Blanc where we would skirt around the bottom of a glacier and climb over another col. Since the weather was so good and appeared stable we went for it.

With large hanging glaciers above in the distance backed by blue skies and meadows full of flowers the hiking was absolutely beautiful. We walked up past Bellevue then across and over Col de Tricot for a steep descent into a valley with chalet selling Tarts and beers to hikers passing by. We stopped for a small beer before continuing up a short climb out of the valley and long descent to Les Contamines where we camped for the night.

Whereas day 1 was the best weather one could hope for day 2 presented the potential for heavy weather. The forecast was for decent weather in the morning with strong winds developing and the potential for heavy thunderstorms late in the afternoon. Since most all day would be spent hiking in exposed high country with two passes we got an early start to beat the thunderstorms.

By 6:30 am we were walking. The skies looked pretty bad but not terrible. Surprisingly, as we ascended, it got a little better. That’s when the winds picked up. I had a limited conversation with a French hiker who told me in the Alps if it’s windy you don’t get thunderstorms. It’s when it’s cloudy and still that you have to worry. After 4 hours of steady climbing we reached the second and highest pass at Col de la Croix du Bonhomme. By that time the winds were really kicking up. It was the kind of wind that wants to knock you down. The good thing was that the ceiling was staying high and the views of the peaks were magnificent. At times the gray would give way to a little blue sky. We descended deep into an open valley and to village of Les Chapieux.

We had planned to stay in Les Chapieux but the weather was still very questionable. Mostly it was the wind. You can camp in the village for free if you don’t mind pitching a tent in a totally exposed wind tunnel. Deb dove inside a lodge for something to eat. Quite frankly, I was kind of tired from the morning push and wanted to stop for the day. Deb informed me that she ordered me a beer and was ordering an omelet for herself. She asked if I wanted to order one to. I asked how much is cost. She said it was 9 euros ($12.50 usd), reasonable for France I suppose.

The beer came first then two wonderful plates with nice sized omelets cooked in a perfect French fashion with a nice fresh salad and bread. We dug in, it was fantastic, and worth every penny. I topped it off with and espresso.

After the feast we talked about what to do for the night. At first we inquired if the lodge had any dorm bunks but they were completely booked. We got out the map and Deb searched for camping possibilities. Our map showed a mountain hut about an hour and a half further. The weather was holding and I was feeling much better, especially with the espresso, so I asked an English speaking person at the restaurant if he could call and see if they had room. He called and they had room so I made sure to make a reservation.

From Les Chapieux it’s a straight walk up a road and trail to the hut. After an hour and a half of blasting wind we arrived at Les Mottets. It’s 16 euros (22 usd) for a cozy bunk, shower, and a warm common space. If you want dinner and breakfast it’s an extra 25 euros (35 usd). We passed on food since we had our own.

By 8 pm it was pretty darned awful outside. Thunder and cold rain set in. I am quite impressed with the beauty of the Alps and the quality of hiking. However, the one issue I see is with the weather. It can be a little touch and go at times.

July 5

The clouds were low from last night’s thunderstorms but I suspected we would be ok and could look for some clearing in the afternoon. Deb and I hiked up into the cloud where we topped out at a cold socked in Col Ferret. We descended below the cloud and out of France into Italy. The skies began to clear revealing spectacular views that would not let up until the steep knee wrenching descent to Italian alpine village of Courmayeur.

Before you reach Courmayeur you pass the village of Dolonne. Just as you reach the village there’s a large grassy area behind a bar. It looked perfect for camping. To the right of the grassy area there’s a daytime privately run recreation area with tourist info. I had already thought of asking the bar if we could camp there and the woman at the recreation area said she had seen tents pitched there off and on all week.

The bar turned out to be a classically run Italian family affair. Momma was keeping watch of everything while I talked to her daughter who spoke just enough English mixed with Italian that I could understand. She showed me where I could camp and at first said 8 euros per tent. I had already told her we had two tents but I guess I gave her a discouraged look when she said 8 euros per tent. She then said 8 euros total and then went onto say something about eating and drinking. I took it to mean that we could both camp there for 8 euros (4 euros each) if we ate and drank at her establishment. We were going to do that anyway. Happily, we had a deal! We set up our tents under sunny skies and an incredible mountain backdrop.

As we were setting up camp a group of 3 polish hikers, understandably traveling on a very tight budget, walked up seeming a bit tired and desperate for a place to camp. I told them it was 4 euros and to talk with the lady. They wound up paying a bit more. I think price in Italy is a little ambiguous and relative at times.

In the evening I had a pipe dream about doing laundry and buying a new can of stove fuel. We somewhat wasted time finding am un-attended launderette with a new fangled system, all explained in Italian with not enough time to get wash done before closing anyway.  Nonetheless, in the process we got in a good tour of the village. It only seemed fitting that we have dinner at a Pizzeria.

The prices in Italy are slightly cheaper than France. The house wine is cheap and we ordered two pizza’s at a reasonably priced simple pizzeria restaurante. The service, wine, and pizza were good. The total price was 23 euros for two pizza’s and a half litre of wine. The bill said 29 euros. It was a pay at the register kind of place. I asked what the extra 6 euro charge was for. The man at the register said something in Italian and called for the waiter. The waiter said, “Cover Charge”. I gave him a what the hell kind of look and said, “Service charge?” He said, “Yes”.

In Europe sometimes a service charge is automatic but the general rule is 10 percent. It goes for tipping as well. If a service charge is included, you don't have to tip. I guess they thought 25% was better. Since they were a little aggressive when I addressed the issue I didn’t fight it and just paid. After all, I don’t really know what the current custom in that area is but I do know, when traveling Italy in the past, short change and problems with a bill were almost a daily occurrence. Nine times out of ten, when the issue is addressed, it’s corrected with a smile. Other times it’s just not worth fighting over a couple of euros.

From Courmayeur it was a lovely hike half way up a ridge for a long traverse and down to a river at the head of a glacial valley to a spot known as Arp Nuova. The views of peaks and glaciers on the other side of the valley are incredible.

In Arp Nuova there is family run lodge, bar, and restaurant. The setting is lovely with a relatively remote feel. I had spotted, from the hike, a great area to camp near a river amidst pines. The weather had been good all day but clouds were building and dispersing. I sensed the potential for thunderstorms and knew the area I spotted would be great for camping. I inquired at the lodge. The old man, who I assumed was the father, spoke enough English to communicate ok. He asked how many people, how many tents, and said for one night it was ok. Just cross the bridge to the trees by the river.

We passed a private property sign to find idyllic camping near a river and set up camp. Afterwards we returned to the lodge for a beer and made arrangements to have dinner. It was during dinner that the first of several strong thunderstorms rolled through.

July 7

Although we had camped at a safe idyllic campsite the thunder, lightning, and rain kept us up all night. It was a little less than an hour hike up to the first mountain hut where I took advantage of one of the few remaining bargains in Italy, coffee. One or two euros will get you the best damn cappuccino anywhere. Italian coffee, hands down, is the best!

After coffee it was an easy yet grinding climb to the top of Col Ferret and the border of Switzerland. Whereas the morning started off mostly clear by time I reached the col it was totally socked in.

While waiting for Deb to catch up a family of 5 Swiss topped the pass with their mountain bikes. I couldn’t believe it! This was a hiking trail. Maybe it was ok for some mountain biking but well advanced at the very least. They were on a week long family vacation from Switzerland across Italy to the Adriatic sea. The family was comprised of a mother, father, and three daughters, 15, 16, 17. I assumed they were supported or staying in accommodation along the way because they had very little gear. The 15 year old seemed to be the sharpest of the bunch which just impressed me more.

From the col it was a pleasant hike into the village of La Fouly with the weather slowly deteriorating. At one point Deb and I got separated. I arrived in La Fouly along with lightning cracking overhead. Deb somehow got lost along the way but eventually we found each other in La Fouly only to get separated again. Later, we met up again in the village campground. The weather had turned to crap.

In La Fouly I found myself exhausted and traumatized by the high prices of Switzerland. I very inefficiently got myself situated as Deb and I seemed to be on a separate program for the day. The cold wet weather was not helping. The saving grace was a nice campground common space/lodge with wood burning stove.

July 8

The weather was totally filthy all night. Cold wet rain fell steadily but I stayed remarkably dry and comfortable in my tent. Amazingly, I slept fantastic and awoke feeling quite good. With the weather being so bad Deb suggested taking a bus for the day’s section but I told her I wanted to walk the entire route. She understood. Actually, for really bad weather the walk between La Fouly and Champex is perfect. You may miss some views but you pass through a few charming little storybook villages and lots of nice forests. It’s a valley hike. Despite the rainy cold wet weather I still enjoyed the day.

In Champex Deb and I considered finding accommodation but couldn’t quite get ourselves to give into the Swiss pricing. Again, it’s another night in the village campground where we set up soaked tents and dried them the best we could with newspaper.

It’s wet, the temp is in the 40’s and the forecast looks bad for the next couple of days. With two really good days of weather and lots of hiking it’s possible to complete the Tour du Mont Blanc from Champex in two days. Three is reasonable.  However, there is a lot of high hiking ahead with spectacular views and a snow level at around 2100 meters. We are considering taking a couple of days off. We’ll see how we feel in the morning.

Mont Blanc - Les Houches - No Reservation

It was really nice catching up with Fredric and Stephanie in Lyon. It was a fun visit with plenty of laughs and good stories. Fred’s Yoga studio is small with a couple of mall lofts for living. It’s quite nice and comfortable. Fred had a small futon for me to roll out and made a comfortable spot for me to sleep in a corner nook. In the morning I packed my stuff and put it aside so the space could be used for classes. After two nights early Tuesday morning via train for Les Houches located in a deep valley at the base of Mont Blanc near the famous alpine village of Chamonix.

The last half hour or so as the train climbed to Les Houches was absolutely beautiful with mostly clear skies and slopes of Mont Blanc in the background. Pretty much the entire high alpine ridgeline extending from the valley of Chamonix, with the tower atop the famous Aiguille Midi, was visible at over 3800 meters, jagged and saw-toothed.

Deb, my friend from England who I visited a couple of week ago, planned to meet me at the campground in Les Houches. Deb arrived by bus via Geneva a little before me and we easily found each other.

Les Houches reminds me a lot of Colorado except the mountains are higher and more rugged with glaciers. The campground is set up on some grassy benches that look to double as parking in the ski season. The whole valley is known for its skiing in the winter and hiking/climbing in the summer. Plenty of people walk the streets with backpacks toting camping and climbing gear. The familiarity of having lived in Colorado mountain towns makes me feel like I’m halfway home here.

I lived in Aspen Colorado for a number of years and Chamonix is a sister city with exchange programs for ski instructors, patrollers, etc. Whereas Aspen is notoriously expensive the Alps are ridiculous. I splurged on Fish and Chips with a Pint that set me back $28 usd with the exchange rate. Oddly though, super market food is very reasonable and cheap at times. A Pint of the cheapest beer runs around $8 in a bar but a 12 pack of cans in a store costs around $10.

Camping costs around $8 - $10 (usd equivalent). Boulangerie’s for baked goods and super markets are fair if not cheap. Hotel’s etc. are generally expensive but reasonably priced, yet not cheap, accommodation can be found. Trains are expensive but very good. If I stick to camping and cooking my own food, with stops at the village boulangerie, traveling on 20 to 30 Euros a day is possible. A euro costs me around $1.38 USD right now. Step outside of the rules I’ve outlined and Europe gets very expensive in a flash.

The best value for eating out in Les Houches is a Pizza place. I know because Deb and I checked out every restaurant before making a decision. The Pizza place was about 1/3 full. Deb asked, in the best French she could muster, if we could have dinner. The woman replied in English that they were completely booked. It was early and not a place you should have to have a reservation. The pizza looked great but it was not possible for us to eat there. I couldn’t believe they would turn down business like that. Claiming to be full and booked was a total sham. Deb was convinced that we were declined service because of her poor French. We left for another restaurant but walked past the Pizza place a couple of hours later on our way to the campground. It was still open with just a couple of people eating.

Or, maybe it’s just another quirky French thing, about having a reservation whether it’s necessary or not. For example, I inquired at the local Gite (hostel) about a bed when I arrived yesterday. The first thing the woman attendant asked me was if I had a reservation. I said no. She then said they were totally booked but asked if I was sure I did not have a reservation. I told her I was sure. She asked again and I replied I was positive. The Gite appeared completely empty and I have a hard time imagining all of the bunks and rooms were full on a Tuesday in a village that appears very quiet. She said if I wanted to stay on another night I would need to make a reservation. The woman was  very nice about it while speaking good English but really seemed to be hung up on the reservation thing.

When I arrived in Les Houches yesterday the weather was beautiful but this morning it’s not. It rained all night and the high peaks are getting snow. It’s 11 am and Deb and I are drinking coffee watching a low ceiling drizzle between dumps of rain. The chamber of commerce weather report says clearing this afternoon. Three other weather sites I checked say rain all day but nice tomorrow.

The plan is hike the 100 mile Tour Du Mont Blanc which circles Mont Blanc via low and high routes through villages and alpine tundra. We both have plenty of time so what can be done in a week may take 10 days. We’ll see. Our approach is to take it easy on bad weather days and go big when the weather is nice. Right now the weather is crap and the rain is coming down pretty hard.