Traveling during busy holiday periods is a great time to cash in on overbooked flights. That’s what I am currently in the process of doing. I kind of approach it like a job. After clearing security I made my way to the gate desk and immediately volunteered, in exchange for compensation, to take a later flight. My flight from Denver to Houston was overbooked by 20 so today was a breeze. Fifteen minutes later I was issued a $300 voucher and a First Class ticket for a 1 pm flight. With a four hour wait I decided to use one of my complimentary United Club passes for a posh retreat away from the crowds. That is where I am currently taking advantage of the free wi-fi. If possible I might even see if I can get bumped off the 1 pm flight. There’s a chance. It’s a small plane. I figure the 2:45 Dreamliner 787 will have plenty of seats.
So, where have I been since my last post? That’s a very good question. Basically upon my return from Japan I jumped into a jungle of busyness playing the game trying to make a few dollars. Drowning oneself in excessive busy work is a wonderful way to kind of check out and justify doing so. As always my occupation is an unpredictable game with a few good hits and a lot of misses that leaves me doing ok but wishing I’d done better. Creatively I've been flat.
Aside of my 3 weeks in Japan 2013 has been a year of putting a lot of my own agenda on pause while tending to other matters such as my mother’s 6 month chemo treatment and some personal issues. In the end I feel like I’ve done the right thing and life is starting to even out again. My mother is doing remarkably better and is now cancer free which makes me feel more free to do as I please for the time being.
2013 was the hardest work year I’ve put in for awhile. I made four trips back and forth between Denver and Houston while splitting my work between the two cities. All things considered I juggled it well even though I made a lot of mistakes and missed many opportunities that couldn’t have been more obvious. The bottom line is that it’s a competitive world out there. Especially when you work for yourself. I wouldn’t consider the last year to be a bad per se but it wasn’t easy. It was a year of hard knocks that has left me feeling quite disoriented and disconnected from social circles etc. Looking back, most of it’s a blur and I feel very uncertain as to what my next move is.
December 31, 2013
September 24, 2013
My Final Day In Japan - A Camino Amigo
My flight departed Tokyo at 4 pm on September 18 and I arrived home in Houston at 2 pm the same day, September 18. But that was after almost 20 hours of traveling starting with a bullet train from Kyoto. Flying east over the date line is always a little amusing.
Last Saturday night I met up with friends in the evening which translated to morning, Tokyo time, and felt wonderfully wide awake until 4 am. I slept until 2 pm which is bizarre for me and had a cheeseburger and fries for breakfast. But wasn’t it just last Wednesday that I enjoyed a full on Japanese feast? The past remembered often times seems like a dream. Now, where was I?
Tsumura is a super fit Japanese gentleman in his 70’s who I met while walking across Spain 5 years ago on the Camino de Santiago. A Camino Amigo. He spent his working life in the Export business with a number of years in the USA and South America. In the early 1970’s he worked out of an office at the World Trade Center in New York. Now he likes to go on long walks. Since the Camino we have kept in touch via Facebook. I let him know I was traveling Japan and we made plans to meet at 8 am sharp on my final day in Kyoto.
First stop was the Imperial Palace offices to try and secure passage to a couple of places that you can only see via a tour that's usually hard to get on. As it turns out it’s oddly easier for tourists so Tsumura was happy when we just happened to luck out and get permission to visit two locations including a villa he had never been to. Naturally, palace officials didn’t want to stay in one place all day. They needed a different environment to rest in the afternoon, have tea, or watch the moon.
With passes in hand, and a plan, he phoned up his friend Mary who happened to be free for the day and opted to be our chauffer. First stop, Shugakuin Imperial Villa. A lovely peaceful place with tatami floored tea houses, pond, streams, and gardens on the outskirts of Kyoto. From there it was on to Mt Kurama for a short vigorous hike up to some temples. Mary had prepared lunch for use so we ate on the go. After Kurama we cruised over to Katsura Imperial Villa with summer home for observing moon and more tatami floor tea rooms amidst gardens. But before that it was shaved ice flavored with green tea syrup and some kind of sweet bean something or other on top. When we were done with that tour we took a train back towards Mary’s and added some extra walking by not taking the subway.
I was sure Tsumura would be getting tired by that time but he wasn’t. “No problem, I’m good, I can keep going”. He suggested we get some beer and wine and drop by Mary’s for tea.
We were both very surprised to find a full on Japanese traditional spread of all kinds of food very nicely set out for us when we arrived at Mary’s. I felt kind of grungy in my old blue travel shirt (that I have vowed to burn this week) and flat hat head hair but we were very graciously welcomed.
Beer and wine flowed. I ate anything and everything because in Japan it’s safe to do so. Cooked fish, raw fish, little fish with heads, some kind specially prepared boney fish that wasn’t boney at all. Little salad mixed things and such. Beer and wine flowed. The food was amazing. Fresh Kobe beef cooked on skillet. My only slight hang up was Kobe beef, after its cooked, is traditionally dipped in raw egg before eaten. With no hesitation I dove in. It was good but a little too rich so after about half of the egg I went eggless.
Tsumura and I were in awe and greatly enjoying a marvelous feast. Conversation flowed nicely and as usual topics of politics and foreign relations come up when people from different countries gather amidst food and drink. Usually it’s in a good way. Sometimes I think world leaders should spend more time in casual conversation over food and drink. We talked about my visit to Hiroshima and I found out that many Japanese would like for Obama to visit the city. Japan today is a million miles away from the war and I sensed no animosity towards Americans whatsoever while traveling the country. Laughter and good conversation amidst a fabulous array of food made for the perfect ending of a Triple A+ day in Japan.
Mary closed out the evening with a piece by Schubert and Mozart on a beautiful Steinway Grand Piano. Tsumura had informed me that Mary was part of a prominent Kyoto family. Her contemporary yet traditional apartment was very classy and everything was top notch. I couldn't be more grateful for Mary's and Tsumura's hospitality.
Ironically my accommodation was only a 10 minute walk from Mary’s. Tsumura and I parted ways at the subway. What a great day! If you travel in Japan don't turn down Japanese hospitality .
September 16, 2013
Kyoto & Nara
A typhoon passed over Kyoto last night bringing heavy rains. The rattling of the windows to my room kind of kept me up through the night but it did not keep me from getting a good start on the day today. The rivers might be nearing the tops of their levees but the train was running. I had to go to Nara to see the giant Buddha.
Kennin-ji, the oldest Zen Temple in Kyoto, followed by Kiyomizudera as I biked around the city made for a good first day on Saturday. In the evening I pedaled through the entertainment district around Kwaramachi with restaurants and bars packed into narrow streets and tight alleys. People were flooding in.
I stopped at British themed pub with a lively crowd of young Japanese with a few foreigners and ex-pats mixed in. It made for good people watching. One employee working the opened door entry gleefully shouted a greeting alerting the attentive staff whenever someone walked in. Guys with dolled up dates, two young backpacker girls in flip flops, trendy hipsters, a strange man with tight stripped shorts and young guy friend, an overzealous American in conversation with a coolly articulate Brit. Uncomfortable singles sat head bent over the comfort of smart phone sending out meaningless texts but most of all everything was very Japanese was British motif for fun.
The Guinness isn’t cheap but they now how to pour. Order at the bar and they give you a numbered card with tall metal stand for your table like your ordering a pizza. It’s delivered when they are done properly pouring it. In Japan tipping at bars is not expected but you still get the best service you’re going to find anywhere.
Sunday found me walking around as an umbrella toting tourist visiting Nijo Castle which was quite good. From there it was off to Tenryuji Temple which wasn’t overly impressive to me. I paid 500 Yen and followed a crowd like I was at a circus side show to see the Tenryu-ji Cloud Dragon. It’s a painted mural covering a ceiling. Although the painting was good I was little disappointed to find out the original was long gone and what I was looking at was painted in 1997. However, the way the Dragon’s eyes follow you around the room like they are always staring directly at you makes it kind of novel. Like a sideshow. By time I got back to my accommodation in the evening the rain really started to pound so I kicked back and took it easy.
If you hit the trains right it only takes about an hour to get to Nara from where I am staying. This morning I hit it wrong and it took almost two hours. Once there, a good three mile walking loop starting at the station will take you past about everything you want to see. The big draw to Nara for me was Todai-Ji Temple with its giant Buddha and I was not disappointed. The temple with its entrance is quite impressive. It stands over a 150 feet high with a width of over 185 feet. It’s all constructed out of heavy thick hewn wood. It was constructed in 1709 and is a rebuilt version of the original that was considerably larger. It houses a Buddha that sits almost 50 feet tall. However, I was most impressed by the building and its architecture. Every now and then I’ll visit a place that at first site gives the senses a bit of a jolt and really grabs me. Todai-ji does it for me. It’s the best I’ve seen thus far in Japan.
Tomorrow will be an interesting day. I’ll be meeting up with an older Japanese gentleman who I met 5 years while walking the Camino de Santiago across Spain and have kept in touch with via Facebook. He lives not far from Kyoto and we are meeting at 8 am. He’s got some good ideas in store so it will be interesting to see what we wind up seeing. Most of all it will be great to catch up with a Camino Amigo.
September 13, 2013
Departing Hiroshima - Now Kyoto
The instructions for my bus ticket I booked online were to meet in front a 7/11 not far from the Hiroshima train station and look for a Willer Bus sign. I showed up early and found the sign without any problem. Since I had plenty of time I wandered over to the train station and purchased my ticket for the bullet train to Tokyo from Kyoto on the 18 of September.
When I returned to the bus stop there was a film crew and a group of official looking people. I noticed a woman wearing a hat with the bus company logo. She had my name on a list. While other passengers started showing up a nice big fancy bus rolled up and the camera’s and crew went at it. The bus was full of people from Tokyo and the driver quickly and professionally unloaded while he was being filmed and observed. I was told it was not my bus and the bus left.
A few minutes later an empty bus showed up. While standing in line to board an man was approaching each one of use and explaining what was going on. I was handed a two sided sheet with exclamation but everything was in Japanese so I was just kind of trying to figure it out. The only person who spoke English was a woman coordinating the passengers. She started to explain with, “We have very strict…..”, but was distracted and had to deal with something else.
The driver for my bus was definitely on his A++ game as he checked each one of us on his list and loaded luggage. Officials with armbands jotted notes and video rolled with soundman in cue. It really didn’t look like a film crew for a commercial. I reasoned it out and came to the conclusion that it was some kind of quality control test and/or study.
There are many things I like about Japan but one that really stands out is that the culture seems to live up to a much higher quality standard across the board when it comes to doing any job. I don’t care if it’s a corner chain coffee shop, 7/11, or a top corporate official, people care more about what they are doing and how it’s done. The old adage of do it right and do it well, no matter what the job is, appears to be an attitude that’s alive and well in Japan.
The bus from Hiroshima was very nice and right on time. It was an express with a stop in Osaka. The ride was made even more comfortable with carefully scheduled rest room stops at very nice highway rest stations.
The Japanese are very considerate and much more others minded compared to just about everywhere else I’ve ever been. I read over an information card in the front seat pocket informing foreigners of proper bus etiquette. “Please refrain from foods which have strong smell or make sounds”. Talking on any mobile device while on any form of public transportation is strictly forbidden.
I didn’t realize what the guy in front of me was talking about as he looked over his seat back. I kind of brushed him off but figured it out, when reading the info card, that he was just trying to kindly let me know that he was about to put his seat back. That would never happen in the USA.
On arrival in Kyoto I made my way to the subway and was trying to sort out the ticket machine when a young Japanese college student speaking perfect American English stepped up to help. Her English was so good I almost thought she wasn’t Japanese. She had arrived on the same bus and informed me that Hiroshima is her hometown. I would have like to talk with her more since I haven’t really had much of a conversation with anyone in Japan but she sped off as I boarded the subway for my accommodation.
Walking down the alley looking from the Nashinoki Inn made me feel like I was back to my normal backpacker ways and really in Asia. Nights in Business hotels at bargain prices had me a bit insulated from traditional Japan. In all honesty though I probably would have stayed in a modern hotel but Kyoto is more expensive and books up, especially over the weekends. I needed a place for five nights which was kind of hard to find at a relatively reasonable price.
When I arrived at my accommodation I was greeted by a nice elderly lady by the name of Toyoko. She brought me a cold glass of tea and a cup of yogurt with raisins while I filled out a registration card. She and her husband opened the hotel in 1970 but he passed 4 years ago. She now manages it alone with an assistant. It’s a Ryokan in true Japanese style with Tatami floors, futon, low table with chair, and shared bath facilities. Toyoko lives on the ground floor and the upstairs contains 6 small rooms with thin plaster walls, wavy creaking floors, and plenty of character. In reality it’s more like guest house or hostel. It’s close to what I envisioned but anyone expecting a hotel in the western sense might be a little confused and disappointed. Those looking for quirky and authentic would be quite pleased. It’s kind of like staying with a Japanese grandmother in her old home.
Naturally it’s dated but clean, comfortable, and homey. A nice bonus is that there’s a nice selection of bikes for guest to use for free. Otherwise a daily rental runs around $10.
For the first night I was the only guest but she informed me it would be full for the rest of my stay. She originally had me in a larger room in a high traffic area next to a restroom and stairs. I asked if I could move to a smaller corner room that I thought might be quieter with a full house. I kind of felt a little guilty for putting her through the trouble. If the guests are Japanese it will probably be very quiet regardless. The Japanese are not loud people.
Well, I've got four days in Kyoto so I better get out and see it.....
September 12, 2013
Hiroshima - Atomic Bomb Dome & Okonomiyaki
When I think of photos of Hiroshima I think of one particular building. That building still exists and is referred to as the A-Bomb dome. A nice park has been built next to it in remembrance of the explosion and for the 140,000 people who died as a result. It's sobering to say the least. I spent all afternoon in the park and toured the museum and park monuments. Whenever I visit places likes this I feel as though I am paying my respects to humanity.
Although you can read about atrocities in history books when you actually visit sites where they took place it takes on different meaning and feels a lot more real. In war the innocent suffer the most. They become victims of the few in power who hold all the cards. So senseless.
Today Hiroshima flourishes with barely a hint of what happened outside of Peace Memorial Park. The radiation is long gone. There’s an industrious pace to the city with a cool vibe but with an after the storm kind of calm. It’s kind of hard to describe but I sense it.
In the evening I walked along the streets and alley ways that host numerous small hole in the wall restaurants and bars. They are all over the place. Japan lacks a street side café atmosphere but makes up for it with quirky hidden hovels set up in assorted themes. You can literally get lost for the evening on some floor of some building singing karaoke, or, drinking in an art themed Americana Japanese interpreted bar with odd music. I noticed one bar decorated with plastic beer glasses full ‘o foam atop like an ice cream cone. It’s all refreshingly bizarre and most enjoyed in the company of someone you can speak English with. Traveling solo as I am is not the best way to go for Japanese night life. Conversation is not easy. However, I can’t say I’ve been getting out much in the evening anyway. In reality, I’m simply too tired from walking around all day.
Of course you can’t visit Hiroshima without having its signature dish, Okonomiyaki. It's made with a thin crepe pancake that’s piled high with noodles, cabbage, bean sprouts, meat, egg and signature sauce. I ordered the “All” which included squid, shrimp, and pork. It’s cooked on a counter stove for all to see. I passed on sitting at the counter as it was kind of hot. Anyway, It’s all cooked down like pie with a pancake bottom filled with foodstuffs and egg on top. Sauce and chopped green onions are added to top it off even more. It turns out to be a lot of food and is best eaten with beer. The taste? Pretty good and definitely unique. I could go for another but I won’t fall asleep dreaming about it.
This morning it was a toss-up as to what I wanted to do. There was a hike that required some bus travel for the day or the opportunity to visit another park and museums. I opted for the hike and visited Sandan Gorge. It proved to be a nice stroll through a narrow valley gorge full of rocky grottos and emerald pools. It's very nice, peaceful, and green.
Tomorrow I will hop bus to Kyoto. I’ve booked a room in a Japanese Ryokan for my remaining time in Japan. Kyoto is said to be the most Japanese of all Japanese cities so no more business hotels. After five nights in Kyoto I’ll take the bullet train back to the Tokyo Airport for my flight home.
September 10, 2013
Miyajima via Hiroshima
I arrived in Hiroshima Monday evening after almost exactly 12 hours of hopping local trains. Everything went well despite a couple of unexpected transfers. Each station name is marked in Japanese and English but other than that all of the announcements and info are in Japanese. Some of the faster trains have announcements in English but so few tourists travel on ordinary trains that it’s not worth the hassle for the train companies to offer both languages on all trains. If something goes off schedule or there are any changes you simply need to follow the lead of the other passengers. One thing that confused me at first is that on one stretch of rail there may be 8 cars but the total number of cars might be reduced for a section with fewer people, especially outside of rush hour. So, if you’re sitting in the rear car and everyone gets out at a stop when you don’t expect it follow the crowd. As long as you’re paying attention the trains are really quite easy. Everything usually runs on time and is well managed.
In Hiroshima I checked into another business hotel that I booked online. Booking ahead seems to be the way to go in Japan. Since everything is paid in advance all I do is walk in, show my passport, and print my name and address on a registration card then I’m good to go after a couple of bows and a an “Arigato”. The hotel I'm currently staying at is in a great location. It’s only 15 minutes’ walk from the train station and right on the edge of the entertainment district.
The first thing I noticed on arrival in Hiroshima is a buzz and/or energy I haven’t noticed from in other cities, including Tokyo. Every city has its vibe. While Tokyo was what I expected and Kanazawa was relatively uninteresting, Hiroshima is distinctly different. I suspect it’s rooted in the obvious fact that city was totally flattened and demolished by an Atomic Bomb in 1945. Where I currently sit was completely decimated but now you would have no idea.
Hiroshima rebuilt is a completely vibrant city. Pardon my cliché but, “Risen from the Ashes”, literally. The buildings are modern but a lot of the architecture is 1950’s so it’s not like it looks totally brand new. There are several waterways that dissect the city with walkways and parks which create a nice aesthetic. The most prominent is Peace Memorial Park which is dedicated to what happened when the A bomb was dropped.
Funny enough it’s Wednesday and I have yet to really explored Hiroshima. When I awoke Tuesday I chose to visit Miyajima Island. It’s a Unesco World Heritage Site known for its temples and temple gate. It also has a nice network of hiking trails up to a couple of peaks and view point. Since I had one day left on my train pass that is also good for JR ferries I took advantage of it and made the trip to the Island in about an hour.
It proved to be a perfect day for Miyajima with nice sunny weather which I haven’t seen too much of in Japan. The temples were all very impressive and the hiking was good. I caught some nice views off two summits and a side point that can be reached by tram that had a little café for lunch. I wound up spending all day on the Island. Deer roam around like dogs and cats amidst tourist in the main village. Up on the trails I didn’t see many except for those accessing some of the mountain temples via the tram. I noticed a warning about poisonous snakes and saw 2 but they were extremely docile. By time I got back to Hiroshima I was pretty tired.
Well, the day is young so I’m going to wander down to the Peace Memorial Park and see what it’s all about. The photos in this post were all taken on Miyajima.
September 7, 2013
Kanazawa & Riding The Local Trains
From Hakuba I caught a morning train and rode the rails until I arrived in Kanazawa around 1 pm. I checked into another business hotel that I once again booked via hotels.com. Japanese Business hotels booked online can be quite a bargain. Hostel dorms in Japan run $25 to $35, capsule hotels run about the same price. For another $10 to $15 a night you can have a luxurious room en-suite with everything you need. TV, internet connection, soap, toothbrush, razor, refrigerator and best of all, insurance of a good night’s sleep. For the Western traveler the rooms may be a little on the small side but they are perfectly adequate. The downside is that they are a little insulating from experiencing real Japanese culture but you can’t beat the value. In Kanazawa I am paying $48 a night for a room I’d rate as Excellent.
I’m really enjoying the trains in Japan. They are very well run and more or less easy to figure out once you get going. The slow trains allow a great opportunity to sight see out the window and observe day to day regular life. The ride from Matsumto through the mountains past Hakuba was especially scenic. On one stretch it was a single car. Kind of like a bus on rails.
Along the way I was befriended by a young Japanese University student who was curious as to where I was from and seemed to have a fascination with America. He was conversant enough in English to where we could enjoy some conversation. He was returning home from a vacationing in Eastern Japan and had a couple of bags full of gifts for family and friends. He asked if we could be Facebook friends and hoped to see me in America someday.
The Japanese all seem to be exceptionally nice and friendly. They are also very helpful regardless of any language barriers. The country in general appears to be very safe and from what I can tell people are very honest. Whenever money is exchanged it’s done carefully and mindfully to make sure there are no mistakes or misunderstandings. There appears to be an honor code that’s set fairly high and people adhere to naturally. I think it’s one of the few countries you really don’t have to worry about getting your stuff stolen. Not to say it couldn’t happen I just think the likelihood is very low.
Something that completely amazes me is that it’s nearly impossible to find a public trash can everywhere I go but I don’t see garbage anywhere. It’s not too difficult to find recycling bins for cans and plastic bottles and all you see in the recycling bins in plastic and cans. No garbage.
Kanazawa is turning out to be a bit of a rest stop of sorts. It's known for it's garden and castle park as well as some interesting museums but the weather continues to be pretty lousy. As it turns out September really is Typhoon season which more or less means it’s a month that usually gets lots of wind and rain. The upside is that the temperature is very comfortable but the clouds and wet do kind of put a damper on the experience.
Yesterday I bought a cheap umbrella a roamed around. Today I’ll do more of the same. Tomorrow will be a big travel day with an early start hopping local trains for 12 hours to get to Hiroshima. Wish me luck on the connections.
Hotel - Japanese Style
The one thing that was missing from the Japanese Alps were Germans. Aside of one American who was the teacher living in Tokyo and a couple from Hong Kong it appeared as though the mountains were almost exclusive to the Japanese. Germans like to hike and they always know where to go. It wasn’t until I was about to board the bus in Kamikochi to return to Matsumoto that I noticed two tall fit hikers looking very European.
I knew right away they were German and asked where all the Germans were. They laughed and said they were wondering the same. They told me at one hut the hosts said they usual only see one group of Germans a year which the even they thought was kind of strange. Like me the Germans were on a 3 week trip around Japan and were mixing it up with hiking. We talked on the bus and they gave me some good ideas on places to see and things to do. They went all out by purchasing a full 3 week JR rail pass which allows travel on high speed trains and were really packing it in.
Back in Matsumoto they headed towards Fuji. I hopped a local train the other direction to Hakuba. Hakuba had my interest as it’s a ski town and was a host venue for the 1998 winter Olympics.
I had one transfer with an hour layover and wandered over to a restaurant with a statue of a pig. When I entered I was enthusiastically greeted as is the case whenever you walk into most any shop, restaurant, convenient store, hotel etc. in Japan. The greeting is usually followed by some degree of bow and smiles. Since I can’t understand everything that’s being said I keep it simple with two words, “Konnichiwa”, (Hello) and “Arigato” (Thank You). These two words mixed with bows and smiles along with common sense and intuition seem to be working well for me. Japan is a fairly formal culture with lots of customs and attention to manners, however, as a tourist I am given a lot of leeway. As with any culture I believe if you are at least trying it goes a long way.
The first thing I did when entering the restaurant was remove my shoes. If you see a shoe rack by the door, that’s your cue. I then sat at the counter and browsed the menu. In most of Asia menus have photos so even if you can’t read the text you can point to what you want. In Japan I’ve found that some restaurants will have an abbreviated menu in creatively translated English. Usually ordinary numbers are shown for the price so that’s not an issue. Since there was a pig in front of the restaurant I assumed I’d be having something with pork. I pointed to a dish marked, “Most Popular”.
Shortly thereafter I was served up a large bowl of noodles in soup broth with some vegetables and pork slices. The pork was a little fatty but very good. A couple of business men were having the same thing and were slurping away which is perfectly acceptable it seems. Keep your conversation low but slurp all you want.
I finished my lunch, paid, was enthusiastically thanked and made my way back to the train station for a slow ride into Hakuba.
The cloud level was low so I couldn’t see the mountains but I could see the bottom of the ski runs and the Olympic ski jumps. I was feeling quite tired when I got off in Hakuba so I went into a tourist information office where the attendant spoke basic English. I requested a reasonably good cheap place to stay for the night. He made a couple of calls and located a room for 4,000 yen ($40). I paid right there and he gave me a voucher and map with the name of the place written in Japanese.
Less than 10 minutes’ walk and I arrived at a building I probably would have just walked by without knowing. It turned out to be a Ryokan. Yes, a hotel but in real Japanese style. I removed my shoes at the door. The woman running the place spoke hardly any English as she showed me around. There was a hot springs fed bath, laundry facilities, a drying room, and my room with reed Tatami Mat Floor and futon. There was also a low table with mats to sit on and supplies for tea.
A Ryokan is usually relatively small with about 6 rooms or so. Facilities are shared and the family owning or running place usually lives on site. The result is a very homey feeling. For a little extra they will usually provide meals. If your seeking a true Japanese experience staying in a Ryokan is the way to go.
Although it wasn’t really what I had in mind for the night it was perfect. My gear was wet and disorganized from the hike so I spread in all out and took the wet stuff to the drying room. I then took a hot springs bath and threw in a load of laundry. The place was really quiet so I more or less had everything to myself. It was perfect for getting sorted. Afterwards I took a walk up the road to see what a Japanese ski village looks like.
The clouds still hung very low so I really couldn’t see the mountains as I walked up to the Happo base area. Everything was very quiet. Very quiet. I roamed around a bit and most everything was closed. Buildings looked worn and un-interesting. Of course, like most any ski town in the northern hemiphere, it’s now off season but Hakuba was totally dead from what I could tell. Maybe there were more interesting parts of the valley to check out. Things did appear spread out. Perhaps having spent several years living in the World Class ski resort of Aspen has my standards set too high but Hakuba was not impressing me. I didn’t see any reason to stay longer than one night. Especially with the poor weather. I returned to the Ryokan and slept well.
September 6, 2013
Mt. Yariga-take - Japan Alps
Regardless sometimes you just have to go. I knew the weather wasn’t going to be favorable but I needed to experience the Japanese Alps and had the desire to ascend one of Japan’s most handsome peaks, Mt. Yariga-take.
The Japanese Alps have a very nice network of trails traversing ridges, following valleys, and ascending summits. There are also many well equipped and impressively managed huts. If a hiker takes advantage of the huts one can travel very light with a small daypack, however, it will set you back $80 to $100 a day for a dorm space with two meals. Although the huts are very popular many people choose to carry camping gear in the same fashion as we do in America. There are free designated camping spots along the trails but you can also camp at the huts for around $5.
From the moment I left Matsumoto my timing seemed to be on. I randomly arrived at the bus station 20 minutes before a direct bus to Kamikochi. From there is was about an hour and a half ride to Kmaikochi which is a popular trailhead located within a scenic mountain river valley and borders on Chubusangaku National Park.
When I got off the bus it was pouring rain but there was a very nice, large, and aesthetically well-designed visitors center with a few shops and open air bus terminal. I checked the weather forecast and asked an English speaking attendant a few questions. The outlook was for wind and rain. I hung around for an hour while it poured.
When it finally stopped I figured I’d better get going. My plan was to head 4 miles up the valley to the site of two huts. The woman at the visitor’s center said they were more like lodges than huts and I could camp there. I had also read that it was an exceptionally nice spot. Since I have my tent with me I figured I’d camp and save a little money. From there I could make it a base camp and decide on the weather what to do next. I originally wanted to do a nice loop that would require a long exposed ridge traverse but U didn't fancy doing in the rain. Aside of being a little dangerous it wouldn’t be fun. Whatever I decided it would likely be an out and back hike.
The hike in was dry and the clouds seemed to be lifting a bit The walking was easy. Again, I seemed to time it right. The two huts of Tokosawa-en were indeed more like mountain lodges. Although the only way in was by a 4 mile walk/hike there appeared to be a secret back road that allowed for supplies to be brought in easily. Situated between the two structures was a nice open meadow perfect for camping. A few tents were set about. I inquired and paid $10 for two nights, set up camp, and had a beer at the English themed pub attached to one of the lodges.
The evening was also dry and the clouds actually seemed to be breaking apart a little when I crawled into my tent. By mid night I could see stars. When the sun started to come up around 5 am it was perfectly clear. I saw it as a window of opportunity but was a little puzzled why the weather was so good when the reports were so bad. With Mt. Yariga-take on the mind I knew I was within striking distance. I suddenly felt very motivated and knew I could do from where I was as long as the weather held. If worse came to worse I’d be passing huts and could always dive into one for the night if need be.
I hastily threw together a light pack and by 5:30 began hiking vigorously. From camp it was roughly 8 miles to the top with over 4,000 elevation gain. Motivation definitely helps with energy and I was motivated. The weather was holding but I suspected it could change quickly at any moment.
The miles felt pretty easy past the huts of Yokoo-Sanso and Yarisawa. Beyond Yarisawa the trail began it's real climb and clouds started to appear. Around that point I saw the first non-Japanese person I had seen since Matsumoto. He was an American camping with his Japanese girlfriend and is teaching at a University in Tokyo. He informed me that a typhoon that was the causing of the rain had stalled so the day should not be too bad. We chatted for a little then I resumed my vigorous pace as the clouds rolled in and began to build. I was hopefully optimistic at that point.
Above tree line as the trail steepened and I started to feel the altitude a little I slowed. I then saw what appeared to be large Marmots leaping before me but they turned out to be Monkeys! I have never seen monkeys in an Alpine environment. I got my camera just in time to get a decent photo as they bobbed along not paying much attention to me. I pressed on. The clouds blew in and out.
The summit of Yariga-take was now in view. The wind picked up. At one moment the summit was socked in then it was clear. A few drops of rain then sun again. I pushed steadily up an alpine valley to the top of a ridge where the hut of Yari-daki-Sanso sits. And what a windy place it is. It’s quite a complex and allows camping if you don’t mind being blown off or least have your gear blown away.
From there the summit is very close with a just 300+ more feet of climbing. However, this is where it gets interesting. Clouds were blowing in and the wind was very strong with gale force gusts in my opinion. I took a break in the hut and watched the weather. It looked to be clearing a bit.
I saw one other party of 2 set out for the summit so I decided to follow their footsteps. Out the hut to the left I went led by circles and arrows painted on the rocks. I soon began using all four points of contact for a 3rd class scramble utilizing rock, chains, and ladders. The route is very well marked and safety is insured by taking ones time.
It’s all straight forward but I found the second metal ladder to be a little spooky with the wind, however, perfectly safe as long as I didn’t let go. Further up I scrambled with rock handhold, chain, some piece of metal sticking out of rock and the final ladder which seemed a little long and steep for comfort. Without thinking I just went for it. Up into the gusty wind I could hear the party of two before me giving a happy yell upon reaching the summit. Shortly thereafter I crested the top sharing the summit with just the 2. We exchanged cameras and took photos of each other.
Clouds and gusty wind followed by patchy holed views. On a clear still day it would be a joy to stay up top for awhile but the dodgy weather couple with a bit of a sketchy climb made the summit a little uncomfortable. The ladder was fairly dry when I ascending but I could tell a squall was blowing in and the descent would take a little while. I guess I spent about 10 minutes on the summit then carefully began my descent. I prefer down climbing on dry rock and rain was coming. I did not rush as clouds once again socked in the mountain. By time I got back to the hut the mountain was hit hard with horizontal rain and wind. Again, my timing was just right.
At that point I had been hiking for about 5 hours with not much too eat. I ordered up a nice curry rice hut lunch as the weather howled. I enjoyed a much needed break before making the trek back to base camp at Tokusawa.
As I started down from the hut the weather was pretty awful but about a half hour later it was perfectly clear again. I took another break on a rock where I met the American teacher and his girlfriend again. We chatted a bit and I leisurely descended as the clouds once again began to blow in. Steadily I hiked on and arrived back at base camp around 3:30 pm.
In all it was about a 16 mile round trip and right about the limit for comfort. Any longer would have been too long. I Immediately got something to eat and followed with a can of beer from a vending machine in the pub. That’s when it really started to pour. Again, Just the right timing.
The rain started falling harder and harder. I didn’t want to the leave the Hut’s pub but after 3 beers I knew I needed to. Into the dark and into my reasonably dry tent it rained all night.
The rain stopped as the sun rose but the mountains were socked in. I thought about what I wanted to do for my remaining time in Japan and quickly worked out a plan in my mind. I was satisfied with my Japan Alps experience and didn’t much feel like fighting the weather anymore so I decided I’d take more advantage of my rail pass which will expire on the 10th and add Hiroshima to my itinerary. A night in Hakuba, then stops in Kanazawa, Hiroshima, and Kyoto was what I came up with. Decisively I packed my pack and hiked the four miles out to catch a bus and train back to Matsumoto.
September 2, 2013
Local Train To Matsumoto
After climbing Fuji I spent three days roaming all over Tokyo and mastered the Subway system. Whenever I visit cities overseas I always do a lot of walking. At times I am pretty efficient at exploring the sites while other times I’m half lost in an area that’s not too interesting, however, I get a good feel for a place by doing so. Not to mention I like to walk.
The area I stayed in while in Tokyo was fairly quiet which is kind of how I like it. One evening I walked the streets around Shinjuku with crowds of people, colorful lighted signs, night clubs, and the tricked out culture synonymous with modern day Tokyo. Young people walked about looking like characters on a Pokémon card while arcades were busy with volume turned up to 11. After that it was nice to return to my accommodation in Fukugawa which felt like a sleepy village in comparison.
On a couple of occasions I visited Shibuya as I was curious about the vintage clothing shops. Shibuya is very popular shopping area for not only top end fashion but vintage and used clothing from America. At first I passed vintage shops not realizing it because they looked too nice. Kind of like trendy boutiques. When I think of vintage clothing stores in America I picture a half junky business with a lot of clutter and a funky sign. Once I caught on what to look for in Tokyo I realized they are pretty common. Most are a mix of old and not so old. You can find everything from common American t-shirts, to blue collar works shirts with name/business tags, old denim, Boy Scout shirts, or an FFA Jacket from Texas. The variety is very eclectic, stylish, and foreign to Japan. Amidst the shops tucked off to the side of an alley a young Japanese entreupaneur has brought a bit of Austin, Texas to the middle of it all with a converted Airstream trailer burger café complete with aluminum tables and chairs. I stopped for a beer to cool off in the Tokyo heat.
So, Friday through Sunday I roamed the streets eating noodles, curry rice, and grabbed drink from one of the 40,000 + drink vending machines that are absolutely everywhere. Tokyo is ranks as one of the world’s greatest cities as it should be but for me I can’t say it really grabbed me like some places do. It’s a massive city of thirteen million people splashed out in a cluttered mess of concrete and high rise buildings. There are cool neighborhoods and massive bright light intersections but in some ways it lacks a balance. Parks are limited and not too impressive. Void are outdoor cafes and places to simply sit and people watch. Tokyo is too much on the move. There’s a small gem of a park or temple here and there but I think the true heart of Tokyo lays in its machine like cutting edge self as it innovates and designs technology and trends that shape the world. In that regard it really is quite impressive.
In the evenings I spent time on the internet trying to figure out how I would move about the country. Language difficulties are definitely an issue in Japan and information resources in English are a quite limited. Trying to find time tables for buses and trains in English can be kind of challenging at the station. One option is to just go up to a ticket counter and ask for your desired destination and see how it goes. Or, now with the internet you can root around for the one good site with train time tables in English and get sorted before walking up to the counter. With a fair bit of research I could only find one good bus site and one good train site in English. I know there are other sites but notice I used the adjective “Good”.
Japan is an expensive place to travel and by far the best deals for getting around are with one of the special train or bus passes. They are especially good if you intend to cover long distances. I chose a seasonal pass that not too many foreign travelers know about. It’s a pass that allows 5 days of train travel over a given seasonal time period. The one I bought is a summer pass and is good for the summer season which starts around the beginning of July and goes until the middle of September. You can travel any 5 days within that time frame. The way it works is that you get your pass stamped for the day and you’re good to ride all day on all local and rapid trains. In reality they are both slow trains but they can get you to a lot of places easily. With an early start you can cover a lot of distance.
When I went to Tokyo station to buy my pass I must admit I was a little intimidated but I blamed it on being a little out of practice. I figured if I could ride trains all over India, China, and Russia I should be able to navigate the organized Japanese system just fine. After all, one of the things I’ve enjoyed most about traveling overseas is riding the rails. Local trains are one of the best ways of seeing the real side of a country.
On Sunday I went to the one good train site in English and pulled up time timetables on my laptop. I then took photos of each chart with my digital camera. That way I would know what line to get on and what stations I should be passing through as well a general time frame of where I should be at any given moment. Monday morning, after six days in Tokyo, I loaded my pack and walked down to Tokyo station which was less than a 30 minute walk. Although most all information is in Japanese there’s just enough English to make it easy. I found my line no problem, got my ticket stamped, and a few minutes later was aboard my first train of the day in the midst of Tokyo rush hour with a big pack. Yep, it’s just like the photos. People crammed in like an overstuffed sardine can. Luckily I found a corner seat.
The train turned out to be a breeze. With my timetables and the train’s terminus listed on each car in Japanese and English I was able to figure it out with ease. I rode with two easy transfers for a little over 5 very relaxing hours to a rainy Matsumto in a valley boarding the Japanese Alps. Just out the train station to the left was a quick 3 minute walk to my hotel. I checked into the Hotel New Station which was another Hotels. com $50 find. It’s a nice place. Japan may be expensive but I am finding accommodation to be very reasonable. Yes, the rooms are small but clean and have everything you need. I think since so many Japanese travel for business, hotel costs are kept in check due to competition. I wouldn’t be getting this kind of quality for $50 in the states. That’s for sure!
I arrived in Matsumoto at 1 pm and check in wasn’t until 3pm so the hotel sent me off on a 20 minute walk to their famous castle with a map and umbrella. It’s not a castle in the European sense. Think late 1590’s fort with Japanese warriors. For 600 Yen ($6) you get to go inside. Cool!
My next objective is to take a bus to Kamikochi and hike in the Alps but the weather is crap right now. It’s rainy and kind of cold. The online forecasts are dubious and conflicting. I’ve got camping gear and the huts are also open. I figure I’ll head that way and see how it goes.
August 30, 2013
Mt Fuji - Sunrise
I arrived on a Tuesday and woke up early Wednesday with a wide awake alertness that ironically comes from jet lag despite little sleep. Feeling energetic I checked the weather for the top of Japan, Mt Fuji. My original plan was to spend a few days in Tokyo then hike/climb Fuji before proceeding on to the Japanese Alps but long range forecasts were not looking good. Wednesday and Thursday looked fine with Friday being questionable. A tropical storm was predicted to arrive sometime during the weekend. I figured my best bet for nice weather would be to ascend Fuji right away.
I threw together a very light day pack with warm weather gear and basic essentials. The plan was to take a bus to the 5th station Yoshida trail and rely on huts for food and accommodation. Mt Fuji is a huge draw for not only Japanese but for people from all over the world. There are several ways to do it but all require an honest hike with a minimum elevation gain of 4,500 feet to reach the summit. It’s not technical but you definitely have to earn the summit. The Yoshida trail reaches the summit crater rim in 4 miles which pretty much has you hiking straight up with some short switchbacks.
Ok, Fuji is a beautiful mountain and the pride of Japan as it should be but to say it’s a huge draw for hiker/climbers is a bit of an understatement. Thousands upon thousands of Japanese ascend it each year along with a large portion of foreign climbers. Logistically it’s a breeze. You can catch a direct bus from Tokyo to the trailhead that takes between 2 to 3 hours depending on traffic. The 5th station base/trailhead has several shops surrounding a village square reminiscent of something you might see in Europe. When I got there around noon the square was full of hundreds of people preparing to go up. I had heard about the crowds ascending Fuji so it was kind of novel to be experiencing it firsthand.
A healthy hiker can definitely leave early in the morning, hike to the top and return in a day no problem, however, if you’re going to climb Fuji the main objective, other than reaching the summit, is to watch the sunrise. Most people hike partway up, check into a hut for dinner and a little sleep, then get up early to the make the top in time for sunrise. There are fifteen huts along the route so you really don’t need much more than warm weather gear for the summit.
After a bowl of noodles I hit the trail. At first it was lots of people but the way was wide. As it narrowed hikers become bunched up. At some places it was single file and things moved along at a snail’s pace but everyone was nice and patient. At each hut things became a little congested as people stopped for green tea and things like that. A lot of Japanese were hiking in groups. Most of the groups seemed pretty young. All were very organized and had an air of camaraderie. Sometimes the leaders would be giving what sounded like an information/pep talk at breaks along the way. As I ascended I could see a snake line of hikers above and below. I began to wonder if I should have made a reservation at one of the huts.
As I got a good ways up the mountain I decided it was time to start inquiring about a space in a hut. The one I stopped at had one person who spoke minimal broken English. Space was available and I handed over $75 for dinner, breakfast, and a futon with sleeping bag sandwiched between, of all people, a group of U.S. Navy guys stationed in Japan on leave.
Everyone working at the hut was very nice. The accommodation although very basic was good and adequate if not a bit expensive. Management was organized and efficient. Things were well maintained. There was very little garbage anywhere as people appeared to be very good about packing it out. Most impressive is the management of human waste. All of the huts have proper toilets that work with composting technology or some king of magic. The ones I used were very clean and really didn’t smell much at all.
By time I settled into the hut I was feeling tired but wired. I went in and out to observe the chain of people ascending and took pictures of passing clouds. I had an early dinner at 4:30 and lay down for sleep shortly thereafter.
People started getting up at about 1 am. By 1:30 everyone was getting up. I went out to use the toilet and couldn’t believe the crowds of people. Everyone was wearing a headlamp so the chain now looked like a serpentine cluster of bobbing lights. I went back in and opened my boxed breakfast which had been given to me the night before. It contained vegetarian sushi, fresh thin sliced ginger, some kind of sweet rice something or other that looked like an egg roll (3) and a small can of green tea. I ate the sushi and a rice thing which was surprisingly good then got my things together for the hike up.
I left the hut feeling pretty good and was enjoying the experience. I’ve hiked a lot of mountains but the Fuji experience is very different with all of the people. I made it to the top of the rim rather quickly with plenty of time to spare before sunrise. The wind was blowing and it was cold.
Mt Fuji is an inactive Volcano. The Yoshida trail tops out on a of section of the Fuji crater rim that isn’t really the summit but it is the best place to watch the sunrise. There are a few buildings selling this and that and a shrine. People were lining up to get into one structure which I sensed was some kind of warming hut. It was still very dark, cold, and kind of windy. A half-moon partially lit up the sky and I didn’t feel like sitting around so I decided to circumnavigate the rim over the actual summit which is about a mile around. I adjusted my headlamp and searched out the trail.
After being amidst so many people it felt kind of strange starting out around the rim in the dark by myself. I was careful to stay on the correct path but wasn’t seeing anyone. I caught up to an older British gentleman turning back. He said he was too cold and appeared a little disoriented. I continued on. To me the trail was pretty obvious and an occasional signpost confirmed my status from time to time. It became a dreamy stroll with the lights of cities and towns in the distance ten to twelve thousand feet below. Lightly scattered clouds slept at about seven to eight thousand feet and a glowing half-moon above allowed me to turn off my headlamp. At about the mid-point I reached the actual summit at 12,355 ft. with a junky set of small towers, a little weather station, and a nice stone monument. From there I pressed on thus completing my way around to the top of the Yoshida trail to meet up with hundreds if not a thousand others to watch the sunrise.
A light glow started to appear above the horizon. Slowly the sun rose as I moved about taking photos. Just at the point where the sun made its full appearance a Japanese man raised his arm as he shouted something and followed it with a Banzai! By American standards I’d say it was pretty Awesome….
I spent a fair amount of time on the summit as the sun fully rose and took a few photos. The wind was picking up and I had been kind of cold for a while so decided it was time to head down.
Aside of the view the hike down is far less dramatic. It’s a different trail which is a steep set of switchbacks upon loose pumice gravel and dirt with dubious footing. The actual descent path is relatively wide and appears like it was carved out by some kind machinery or something. It’s good that they made a different way to go descend because if everyone went up and down the same trail it would be an absolute mess.
When I reached the bottom I purchased a bus ticket back to Tokyo and returned to the place I had previously booked into. I had prepaid for 6 nights so I didn’t move my stuff or anything. Needless to say I was tired. I showered, napped, went out for dinner, and went to sleep.
So far I am off to a busy start in Japan. Mt Fuji was at the top of my list so I am very happy I got to climb it. I would like to do some more hiking but It doesn’t really matter so much if I do or don’t. It’s more or less weather dependent at this point. For now it’s Tokyo until Monday then I will move on to somewhere else in Japan.
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