Tamarindo to Samara

I met up with the French family that I met the day before for a ride to Samara at 9am. There are a couple of different ways to get to Samara from Tamarindo. One is on main roads that are relatively easy to follow and the other is a shorter more scenic route along the coast. A local guy told us it was a two hour drive via the coast and that it was much more scenic. I envisioned us getting lost due to lack of signs and a sub-par map. I figured it would take most of the day if we took the coastal route but didn’t really care because I’d get to see that much more of Costa Rica. I thought there was a possibility of getting lucky and arriving within the 2 hour time frame but doubted it.

We headed south out of Tamarindo around 9:30 and seemed to be finding our way pretty well until we took our first wrong turn at the first village. No problem. It was a short detour so we just back tracked quickly. Jeffery was driving and Agate was navigating while 4 year old Tom was sleeping. I was just along for the ride. We stopped a couple of times to ask and make sure we were on the right road. No problema.

After a little while we came to a prominent well signed intersection and very properly took the wrong fork. The road narrowed but was still pretty good as we headed up into the hills. The way became steeper and the wheels spun out throwing gravel underneath the car as we dug in, backed up a little, and proceeded forward spinning out over the first pass. Down the other side across a creek then up and over another steep pass down to another creek and up another steep rise past a man on a horse where this time the car was not going to make it. The rest of us got out and Jeffery backed the car to get a running start and spun out up over the crest. I wasn’t sure we were going the right way. We seemed to be going away from the coast.

We asked the few we met where we where and how to get to Samara. Agate, with her French accent asked in broken English. I asked in Spanish but nothing was being understood by anyone very well. The only thing that was clear to me is that everyone we asked was giving us different information and suggesting different routes. We started down a suggested steep road but as it narrowed into a trough, with both sides closing in on the car doors, we decided it was best not to go further and backed out.

We tried another fork and met a drunk guy with a horse and what appeared to be family and friends hanging around a coral. In a very enthusiastic drunken animated fashion he waved his hands about describing the way signaling what believed was a turn right. But where exactly? We pressed on further. Wait, that right? Or, that left? That right didn’t look too good and the left looked ok. A little further on and we arrived in a tranquil little valley.

A very basic open air wood home with clothes hanging out to dry revealed a father and his daughter. We asked where we were but it really wasn’t clear. Apparently we were near some village that wasn’t on the map. He said it wasn’t good to go further and we all agreed it was probably best to backtrack. I remembered the prominent intersection a ways back so that was our goal.

So, we retraced our tracks up and over the passes through 4 or 5 creeks and eventually found the main intersection. It was well marked and well signed. We simply made a careless mistake. Cest la vie. About 5 ½ hours after leaving Tamarindo we arrived in Samara.

Samara is much more what I expected to see along the west coast of Costa Rica. Lots of Americans and Europeans, mixed with plenty of Costa Rican's running hotels, restaurants, surf schools, tours, etc. in a more basic somewhat rustic appealing fashion. Tamarindo is a little more upscale with night clubs and multilevel apartments laid out in a way that I find far less appealing that Samara.

The drive to Samara was a bit hot and tiring but it gave me a chance to see a bit of the real Costa Rica. So far I’d say people in the cities are doing ok but in the countryside there are definitely a lot of poor people. What I don’t see are people living in squalor. Costa Rica strikes me as one of those places I call middle world. Middle world is where you have lots of poor people but everyone seems to be eating, living with a roof over their head, and has some kind of chance to make a little money doing something.

Overall the country appears to be on an upward swing. For example, tap water is considered safe to drink throughout most all of the country. The availability of safe municipal drinking water is a nice indicator of where a country is headed. Aside of petty theft there really doesn’t seem to be much anything else to be too concerned with. The Costa Rican people are nice and friendly. The touts are non aggressive. A simple, “No Gracias”, and they’re off your back.

A couple of nights in Samara and I'll continue south.

Pura Vida Costa Rica = No Plans

Friday, January 27

Thus far my Costa Rican excursion is sponsored by the letter E for Easy. After two nights in Liberia I caught a local bus for around $2.60 to the beach side tourist magnet of Tamarindo. The town packed with overpriced shops, restaurants, and hotels isn’t anything overly special in my opinion but it’s easy to get to. The real attraction is a very appealing long crescent shaped beach that’s allows for good swimming, surfing, and sunbathing.

While waiting for the local bus to Tamarindo I noticed very few Gringos (white foreigners). I did meet one British backpacker waiting for the bus to Nic-ar-ag-u-a that started in Panama City and is on an 8 week blitz through Central America in route to Mexico City via buses. I also met Greg from Canada who on a whim bought a last minute cheap ticket to Liberia for a two week break from short days and cold wet Vancouver winter weather.

Greg has backpacked around Southeast Asia so we swapped travel stories on the 2 ½ hour bus ride to Tamarindo. When we arrived in Playa Tamarindo I had no idea where I was going to stay. Greg was already booked into a place that had been recommended so I wandered around with him until we found his hotel. I figured there would be other cheap accommodations in the area. For the first night he was bumped up to a large bungalow type room with several beds. For a few extra bucks the manager said I could stay as well so I chipped in for a night and we shared the place. The rest of the day was spent beach side swimming and drinking beers.

The next morning, after a run on the beach, I set off to find my own accommodation as Greg was due to move into a smaller single. After a couple of hours of wandering around town investigating options I settled on a nice small clean family run hotel with an inviting atmosphere. Although my Spanish is very basic I was able to negotiate a $40 room down to $30 which is pretty good for a tourist town that’s got to be about as expensive as Costa Rica gets.

Greg and I hung out all day and did a nice job of doing pretty much nothing except beach side lounging, beer drinking, and swimming. I think it’s a really good idea to focus on feeling good about doing nothing sometimes. I know I can be pretty driven with work, assorted goals, etc, and temporarily lose myself within a narrow focus. I suppose it’s necessary to do that at times but while wrapped up in excessive busyness I often put off dealing with other issues of importance because my priorities are elsewhere. For anyone who’s frequently busy, doing nothing can allow for a chance to check in and reassess one’s life direction etc.

Saturday, January 28

By 9pm last night I was worn out from a day of sun, swimming, and drinking beer so I called it a day. My room, situated next to an open air hall and roadside restaurant is a little noisy but I had no problem falling asleep and slept well.

When I arose this morning I surrendered to the Costa Rica “Pura Vida” way after a morning run on some back roads. I allowed myself to be at a loss for any sensible reason to plan anything. I joined Canadians Mark and Lindsay for the complimentary hotel breakfast. We sat in a courtyard eating fruit and drinking coffee. I quizzed them on their current bike journey around Cost Rica and Nicaragua and chatted with Lindsay who bar tends in a small Canadian town somewhere near Montreal. This went on for awhile. I booked another night in the same room, glanced at my Lonely Planet Guide and thought it might be cool to go to further down the coast to Samara tomorrow. I didn’t give it much thought how I’d get there.

I departed from the grounds of my accommodation around noon. As if it were planned, which it certainly wasn’t, I met up with Greg just as he was exiting his hotel. We decided to walk over to a cheaper hotel that the Canadians were moving to. I was curious to see what a $25 room looked like in Tamarindo. We arrived, as if we had planned a time and specific location to meet, but hadn’t, and met right up with the Canadians. It was there that I was introduced to a nice French couple and their 4 year old who have a rental car and are head to Samara tomorrow. I asked if I could hitch a ride with them and they replied, “Sure”, in a, “Of Course”, kind of way. After visiting awhile Greg and I went on to a local Soda joint for a huge plate of food at the cost of 2,500 colones ($5) and returned to the hotel where the French and Canadians were residing.

As if planned, but of course it wasn’t, I joined the French and Canadians for an afternoon on the beach. The water is divine, the waves are clean, and the 90 degree sun is nonstop. For the evening I have no plans but I suspect I’ll round up a cheap dinner somewhere.....

Liberia, Costa Rica

There’s two ways to get to the town of Liberia when you arrive at the airport 12 km away. One is the taxi at a rate of $20 USD. The other is the local bus for 420 colon which converts to 82 U.S. cents. Why was I the only gringo on the bus? Was I the only one on the airplane thinking like a backpacker?

The flight from Atlanta to Costa Rica felt more like a trip to Hawaii than Central America. The Boeing 757 was loaded with gringo tourists, from all over the USA, ready to take advantage of a robust tourism infrastructure. There are countless options for tours and activities which included everything from wild life sightseeing, surf camps, jungle trekking, yoga retreats, beaches, golf, etc. It all fuels a healthy economy that provides a good quality of life for the Costa Rican people that's far better than other nations within Central America. There’s nothing third world about this country judging by what I’ve seen thus far.

Upon arrival at the newly constructed airport customs and baggage claim were an absolute breeze. Liberia is an easy back door alternative compared to the bustling Capitol City of San Jose. When exiting the Liberia terminal I brushed off taxi drivers and found the only ATM located near the check in area. Right outside the arrival area is the taxi stand. On the other end, near the departure area is a bus stop. That’s where a few locals were waiting for the bus. I joined the locals.

Liberia is a busy small town built around Parque Central which is essentially a town square. The park itself is full of bright yellow painted benches. On the north side of the square is a large somewhat mid century modern looking cathedral that's painted white. The rest of the square is lined with shops, restaurants and a couple of bars. In the evening the square takes on a festive atmosphere as it’s a very popular place for local people to hang out in the evening.

I picked up a bottle of cold water and took a seat at on one of the benches in the park and consulted my Lost Planet Guide (Lonely Planet). Just off the square the book recommended a few cheap places. My general rule, when possible, is to look at 3 accommodation options before choosing. Prices varied from $10 to $20. I chose a simple room with a nice feel and quiet location for $15 or 7,500 colon. Several old 45 rpm records decorate the walls and there’s shared bathroom around the corner. No air con but a good fan. Even though it gets up to 90 during the day and the lows are around 70 there’s a nice wind that makes the air feel dry. Air conditioning really isn’t necessary.

By mid afternoon I was all situated so I just walked around town to get acclimated to the culture and surrounding. By evening I was feeling a little wired from the transition so I found a nice little restuarante with a breezy corner table and ordered a traditional dish while drinking a couple of local beers. The perfect way to settle back into a backpacker lifestyle.

Another Excursion

Aside of a few cold mornings and a handful of cold days the Houston winter has been pretty normal, pleasant, and mild. There have been many daytime highs in the 70’s with some days pushing 80 compliments of a stiff wind from the south pumping up warm air off the Gulf of Mexico.

For me, I’ve been whizzing all over the place looking for cool old stuff as my interest in vinyl records continues to be on the rise. Houston is a fertile ground for blues and soul. Lots of rarities originate out of long forgotten studios scattered amidst the north and east sides of the city. However, rare is rare, therefore I spend most of my time sorting through literally thousands of pieces of worthless vinyl to find a coveted gem here and there. As of late I’ve had a little bit of luck which refuels motivation to keep doing what I do. Never really knowing what I’m going to find makes it a lot of fun.

All in all I’ve been excessively busy. More so than normal. Motivation has been high. My routine has been work, get in a run, and meet friends at least once or twice a week for beers. I’m the type that can go like a mad dog for a certain period of time until I wake up one day feeling overlay tired and back off for awhile. Lately I can feel a little bit of burnout coming on but I think I’ve timed it right. As I’ve said before, I try to fit a year’s worth of work into 6 months so I travel and kick around for the other 6 months. It’s now time for a kick around session. Next week I’ll catch an early flight out Houston which will get me into Costa Rica around lunch time.

The downside to being wrapped up in too much busyness is that I continue to put off pursuing other interests as I avoid making changes I’ve been intending to make for awhile. However, maybe that’s Ok. Often times when I simply leave myself alone and go easy on the self criticism, life flows easier. I’m a responsible and motivated person so naturally the nuts and bolts of everyday living are always in order but I get hung up from time to time on questions concerning my own potential and life’s true purpose. Perhaps these are riddles that everyone wrestles with and by doing so we try our best to make the right decisions with the cards we’re dealt.

For my next excursion I have absolutely no plans and no idea where I’ll be staying the day I arrive. I’ve never been to Costa Rica but I know they have lots of beaches, plenty of jungle, national parks and mountains. I’ll be there during the best time of year and will have a month to look around. My Spanish is good enough for comfort and the country is known to be a fairly easy and relaxing place to travel. The biggest complaint I’ve heard from other travelers is that there are too many people from the USA and it’s very expensive for Latin America. Right now Easy and Relaxing sound good so I think the “Pura Vida” of Costa Rica makes sense. If I start feeling more adventurous I could always venture over into other countries within Central America.

Coffee Shop Perspective - Then and Now

When I moved to Boulder, Colorado in 1985 I found myself visiting a coffee shop for the first time. Not for the coffee but for the selection of odd and esoteric books available to read or purchase. The place was called the Brillig Works and was located on The Hill right next to the University of Colorado. For all I know it's still there.

As I recall the walls were lined with dark rough wood akin to the all natural rocky mountain hippy style of the time. Wood tables and comfy chairs allowed for quality lounging while sipping coffee with a granola muffin fresh baked on premises. People sat around and talked about intellectual yet far out subjects from a liberal perspective while others read books or wrote poetry with pen and paper. A cassette player provided tunes from a recent new age release picked up at “Trade a Tape” around the corner. I didn’t like coffee at the time so I ordered an herbal tea and flipped through the pages of a book about Astral Projection. There were no computers, no cell phones, and no Mp3’s. I don’t think "Internet" was a word yet.

In 1990 I experienced another coffee shop in Boulder known as Penny Lane. It was located right next to a Health Food restaurant attached to the running store I was working at. Penny Lane was a haven for lost souls and aspiring poets. The biggest draw aside of coffee was a good selection of single cigarettes. Most all of the patrons smoked so the place was always super smokey. Whenever the running store ran low on small change I would go to Penny Lane to make an exchange because they never had a shortage of small bills. The few minutes I spent there left me smelling like an ashtray for the rest of the day. Cell phones may have existed but no one had one. Computers were big and used at home by a few people for word processing and accounting. The internet was some kind of electronic organization and nobody really knew what is and most still hadn't even heard of it. A few people still believed poetry was a viable way to make a living. I think Penny Lane still exists but they may have moved to a different location.

20+ years later I find myself enjoying a Latte from time to time. I’m now a sometimes occasional regular at a local neighborhood coffee shop in Houston,Texas. What’s different these days is that everyone has their head stuck in a laptop. Myself included. Eyes shift between a smart phone for texting and a laptop with 5 pages opened. An i something pumps out weird tunes and nobody really talks until around 5 pm when the happy hour crowd arrives for beer or wine. Most all of your independent coffee shops serve alcohol now. I mean really, how does a business survive on just a $1.50 cup of Java? Plenty of people write on their computers but I don’t think many write anything poetic. It’s rare to see anyone reading a book and the only pen on premises is the one to sign your credit card receipt. A loose sheet of paper or spiral notebook with #2 pencil are a rarity if not obsolete. Plenty of people still smoke but no one would even think of doing it inside. A coffee shop without wifi is like a coffee shop without coffee. It just doesn’t exist.

2012

Well, I coasted through the Holiday season smoothly. I flew up to Denver for a week to visit family over Christmas but other than that it’s been business as usual. I’m generally a little out of sorts over the holidays but start feeling like my old self after the New Year.

I can’t say I’ve really thought too much about the year ahead nor do I have any New Years resolutions. I don’t have any real plan but I do have some new intentions. So, I’ll see how that approach in attitude works.

I may not have any New Years resolutions but I do have some predictions. I don’t think anything is going to happen in relation to the Mayan calendar. I think the upcoming presidential election will be very close but Obama will win because the Republicans are going to sabotage their own party. I think there will be floods and disasters and everyone will blame it on global warming or an upcoming apocalypse. However, Today I think disasters are publicized on a much broader scale and people are simply more aware of things that have been happening for eons. Iraq will fall back into a political mess and the Middle East will continue to be a hub of instability. N. Korea will remain a huge mystery to the rest of the world. The Euro will hang on but the EU will change things up a bit. The dollar will remain weak but the U.S. economy will fare just fine. It’s amazing how much America still consume even in the worst of times. Bad in America isn’t bad compared to the rest of the world.

Predictions for myself? I think this year will be a period of reinvention and persona modification. There will be more travel with an increased focus towards right brain activity. More time will be spent contemplating the absurd coupled with dry humor and witty thought processes. Writing will become more regular. I’ll meet plenty of people and will make new friends. I’ll likely move on to a different home base arrangement and will start playing guitar at open mikes again. Something I haven’t done in years.

In the end 2012 will be another year. A year that will surely pass faster than the previous one. I’ll soak up every experience and be thankful for gift of every moment.