Chaing Mai - Thailand

Greetings from the Chaing Mai, Thailand. Again, I must say that I’m a world away from India. The overnight train I took from Bangkok to Chaing Mai was almost exclusively filled with backpacker travelers and western tourist. Nothing like the trains in India, where except for a couple trips, I hardly saw any westerners. I have come to find out that the T in Thailand stands for Touristic. Thailand has done a very good job at opening the doors for tourism and the country is crawling with white skin foreigners.

Thailand is known as the, “Land of Smiles”. There’s a big sign stating this fact just as you leave the Bangkok airport. For the most part the Thai people are very pleasant and smile a lot. Service is very good and an appreciative “kor khun ka” (Thank You) is used frequently. Most everywhere you go the people are welcoming and hassles are few. Travel is very, very easy. For anyone unaccustomed to overseas travel with an interest in Asia I’d say Thailand is a great place to start. You’ve got the beaches down south and the jungles up north so for variety many folks do a loop through the country. It’s also clean and inexpensive.

Chaing Mai is very touristy with loads of open air cafes, bars, and restaurants. The tourist season starts up around November with the peak around December – February when it’s cool and dry. Although Chaing Mai is all about tourism it still retains a nice appeal. The city is loaded with impressive Buddhist temples complete with golden Bhuddas. They are everywhere. The average person is sure to be templed out within a couple of days. Aside of visiting the local sights there are numerous tour operators offering sightseeing, trekking, etc. to nearby areas. The local tropical forests, jungles, and countryside offer a lot of options for things to do and see.

Chaing Mai is overflowing with places to stay so lodging is really cheap. For the first two nights I was paying $10 but moved to another place because that was way too expensive. I’m now paying around $5. That’s for a clean single room with private bath. I’m spending about $2-$4 per meal and am eating really well.

Ok, combine nice people with clean, cheap, and easy travel amidst a beautiful tropical country with nothing much to worry about and you have Thailand. I can see the attraction for those seeking a nice vacation but for me it lacks an element of adventure. The exotic has been whitewashed and the challenges dumbed down. I haven’t spent time in the hills but even the hill tribes here have seen decades of backpackers seeking a more authentic cultural experience.

I’ve debated where I want to spend my time in S.E. Asia so given my interest in the more exotic and adventurous I’ll be heading into Laos within the next few days. I’ve been very lazy while in Thailand and except for some nice walks and a vigorous bike ride up a mountain, to visit the temple at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, I haven’t really done much. I probably would have headed to Laos today but I got an email from my good friend Deb. You may remember her from my posts about the Camino and my hike through Wales last spring. Anyway, she’s currently in S.E. Asia hopping trains from Malaysia and is on her way to meet me in Chaing Mai. She’s very well traveled and has little interest in spending time around touristy areas. We seem to be on the same page as travel interest go. So, it looks like I’ll be picking up a travel partner for a little while at least. We get along well so it should be good. I’m looking forward to the company and it will be nice to see her.

In the meantime I’ll enjoy the ease of Chiang Mai by drinking a beer, sipping a latte, and visiting a Buddhist temple. Next week I’ll likely be living off of who knows what and rice while swatting disease infested mosquitoes. Do I really want to leave Thailand?.

Bangkok - Brews, Snooze and Street Foods

Brews, snooze and street foods. I can’t say I have done much since arriving in Bangkok last Wednesday. Quite frankly, I’ve been tired! India was non stop and after a couple of days in Bangkok it all kind of caught up with me in a good way as I began to sleep better than I have since leaving home a month and a half ago.

While in Bangkok I've managed to get in a couple of nice runs around Lumphini park. I almost tripped over a 4 foot long lizard while doing so. Bangkok is still hot and humid without much wind so my six mile runs were more than suffice to satisfy my desire for exercise. While in India I rarely had the opportunity or interest to go for a run.

Last night I joined a Dutch couple who has traveled from Moscow on the the Trans Siberian Railway and through China. Like me they are taking a break in Bangkok while securing a Vietnam visa and will be traveling a similar path as myself through S.E. Asia. They’re staying at the same hostel as I am. There’s a nice selection of street food vendors pretty much right out the door so we chose to eat there for the evening.

Thailand is all about food and in Bangkok the streets often smell like food. Street vendors are everywhere. Most do a good business and food is usually prepared nice and hot so for the most part it’s safe to eat on the street. In general, things are usually kept quite clean but common sense still applies when choosing where to order. You can expect to fill up on about $1 or $2 USD so it’s the obvious choice for the budget traveler.

The Dutch couple and I wound up in a nice cosey little place set upon the ground floor of an old building. It’s basically where vendors store their carts. In the evening they roll the carts out to line the streets and set up tables inside. It had been raining so the inside area looked inviting. The atmosphere was lively with locals and the whole front of the building open to the street. The walls are decorated with Thai advertisements for beer and the like including a posting for the Hostel we were staying at. We watched vendors cooking and people walking by while enjoying dinner. Ceiling fans stirred up a nice breeze and with a friendly wave a smiling man brought us large bottles of beer. The atmosphere was very inviting and the pleasant attitude of people working there made hanging out after dinner all the more enjoyable. We agreed it was better than a bar so we ordered more beer and swapped travelers tales as travelers drinking beer often do.

I’m generally not all that crazy about big cities but I really like Bangkok. I enjoy visiting large cities but I’m seldom inclined to spend too much time in them. Some places I’d assume never set foot in and others I quite enjoy for at least a few days. I first passed through Bangkok 20 years ago and stayed on Khao San road when it was kind of a sleepy backpackers hovel for budget accommodation. Now it’s overrun and crowded. Bangkok was still kind of like a third world city back then but now it’s anything but a third world city. Bangkok is very modern, organized, orderly and clean. High rise apartments and office buildings fill the horizon. Although the streets are busy thery are not hectic. There are large shopping centers that are well on par with any other modern western shopping center. I could take you to places in Bangkok that look more like the Galleria area of Houston than Thailand. Right now I’m sipping coffee in posh Starbucks listening to smooth jazz and feel more like I’m in San Francisco than Asia. But then again, I can walk around the corner and order a Pad Thai for $1 from a lady who doesn’t speak any English. Bangkok is an interesting mix of old world and new world that appears to be working quite well.

Tonight (Monday) I’ll be hopping a train for Chaing Mai as I shift gears and get ready to travel into Laos. I’ll spend a little bit of time in the north of Thailand but I’m more fascinated by Laos and Cambodia. At some point I’ll hop the border into Vietnam for a look see but doubt I'll spend too much time there. I only have until mid Decemember and there is so much to see and do. I’m hoping to get in a fair bit of hiking and plan to visit some national parks. I have no solid plans. Just a loose framework. I’ll be winging it as I go along. That’s the way I most enjoy traveling. Chaing Mai is supposed to be really nice and easy so I’m looking forward to it. Time to jump back in after 5 nice restful days in Bangkok….

Images of India - Parting Shots

India - Closing Thoughts

From the madness of New Delhi to the serenity of the Himalaya. From the Holy Cities of Haridwar and Varanasi to the deserts of Rajasthan. From the Tea plantations and backwaters of Kerala to the chilled out beaches of Goa. In 5 weeks I saw a lot of India and must say that it was an amazing experience. India is a fascinating land of contrasts and contradictions.

What did I like about India? Random order: The trains. The way women dress and ride side saddle on a scooter. The food. The history. The exotic sites. Auto Rickshaws. Ancient Forts. Jain Temples. The Chai. The Himalaya. The natural beauty. The tolerance people have for each other and the acceptance of different religions. How the chaos of India works to a large degree and the way logic is defied. Most of all, it’s just so darned different and interesting.

What did I not like about India? Rampant Widespread Poverty. It’s very dirty. Hectic pace. The hassles. Not knowing who to trust. Having to be careful with food and water. The way women are second class citizens in a man’s world. The me first mentality. Service without a smile. How Indians can tend to be rude and inconsiderate by western standards. Garbage everywhere. Open sewers. Blatant government corruption.

Most anyone who has traveled on their own through India would agree that it’s a love/hate kind of experience. There were days when I could easily see myself spending more time than planned. There were other times when I just wanted to hop the first taxi I could find and head straight to the airport. Traveling India is truly a roller coaster ride of emotions, thoughts, and impressions. Whatever your attitude is at any given moment is what India is going to throw at you. Then again, your attitude may be stellar when India tosses you for a loop that causes you to question all kinds of things. Traveling India entails viewing and experiencing all of the beautiful and ugly things life has to offer. It’s all right out in the open and in your face close up and personal whether you like it or not. Sure, you can insulate yourself and travel in a bubble on a packaged tour complete with fancy hotels, and local guide but that would be ashame. Although traveling with such a group would be markedly less stressful it causes one to miss out on a lot. Ironically, the time I value most in India was when I was far removed from other westerners during rides on government busese and the like. It gave me a chance to experience some of the real India. There’s something special about it. I can’t quite put a finger on it.

I really like the way I traveled the country. Except for one internal flight to the south I traveled on the ground by foot, train, bus, and auto rickshaw. Aside of how I dealt with some of the people and scams I think I did pretty well. Needless to say, it can be challenging at times.

The biggest problem for me and India was unfortunately the people. I met some fabulous folks but I also met a lot of shifty characters that always kept me on guard. Whenever I let my guard down it just invited problems and hassles. It’s ashame but a common saying amidst western travelers is, “You can’t trust anyone in India”. Getting overcharged and scammed is unavoidable no matter how careful you are. It’s just going to happen. I still stick to my statement that anyone who approaches you on the street in an overly helpful friendly manner cannot and should not be trusted. Dealing with these types became very tiring. On my last day in India I heard the, “Hello Friend”, comment one too many times and replied, “You’re not my friend!” The hassles really wear one down after awhile and there were a few times I snapped back which is pretty unusual for me. India has a way of pushing ones limits.

I really wanted to connect more closely with Indians but due to cultural differences I think it would take a long time to really understand one another. I met a few westerners who either lived in India or were there for an extended amount of time. They seemed to be developing good relationships with locals but everyone said the same thing, “You can never really fully understand India”.

Will I go back? Right now it’s hard to say but if I were to go back I’d have a better idea of what to expect and where or where not to go. For one, I did not like the cities of New Delhi and Mumbai. I could care less if I ever set foot in either place again. If you find yourself on a trip to India and arriving in New Delhi my advice is to get out as soon as possible. New Delhi is the only place in India I visited that I’d really consider unsafe. Others would agree. Even Indians will tell you there are a lot of bad people in New Delhi. The south of India is much more relaxed and easier to travel than the north. I met people traveling the south that really enjoyed it but couldn’t stand the north. If I were to go back I’d probably stick to the South. The biggest reason I would not go back to India is the hassle factor.

I’ve had a fascination with India for half my life so I’m very happy I finally got to visit the country. In some ways it exceeded my expectations and in other ways it disappointed. Although I saw religion and symbols of spirituality all over the place it didn’t seem to transfer very well in how I saw people act in their day to day life. I found this to be somewhat disappointing. The one exception was meeting Sikhs on a pilgrimage in the Himalaya. Sikhs are said to be the most trustworthy people in India and it would have been nice to spend time in the Indian state of Punjab where most Sikhs reside. If I were to travel the north of India again that’s the one place I’d go.

All in all, I can honestly say India was an Amazing experience and one I feel privileged to have had. I am certain in the coming months India will continue to work on me. It’s undoubtedly left quite an impression. There's no other place like India!

The Sustainability of India

So, they say India is catching up to be a major player in the world economy (if not already) and a super power of sorts. Really? Lets see, Poverty in India is defined as someone who makes less than 20 cents a day and a large percentage, if not the majority, are living on less than $1 USD a day. Mumbai (Bombay) is home to over 16 million people. India collects 40% of its taxes from Mumbai but 55% of the population there live in slums. From what I can tell an extreme few of the 1.2 billion that inhabit India hold all of the wealth. There’s a very small number of individuals that have most of everything, a negligible middle class, and an overwhelming majority living in Poverty. It's every bit a third world country. India is simply not sustainable.

If you want to see what happens when over population takes hold, take a look at India. The people for the most part are hard working. Everyone is doing what they can to survive but there is barely enough to go around. This in undoubtedly a big cause of the hassles I faced while traveling the country. Indians are crazy about movies and cinema. American movies are just as popular as Bollywood movies. They see all of the wealth portrayed by Hollywood and can easily justify screwing an American out of a few dollars. Any westerner would agree it’s not about the money it’s the principle of the matter but in a way, can you really blame them for their thought process? The position that the common man in India is put under is a desperate situation.

Workers are unfairly exploited because there are too many people and not enough work. Often times hotels, restaurants, and the like are over staffed because people can be hired for peanuts. I talked with a woman from the Indian state of Karnataka. She was telling me how everyone works in the rice fields for 8 hours a day to earn 25 rupees (50 cents). Think of that the next time you buy an ice cream cone. Competition is fierce amidst vendors and a portion of what many individuals make by having their own business goes to organized crime or some other riff raff like that. Not to mention that often times 30-40% of the money slated for government projects goes into the pockets of private individuals. Corruption is rampant and blatant. From what I could see the government does a poor job of taking care of its people by not putting enough money into infrastructure. Education, water, sewers, and roads could all use a lot of help in India. God forbid, health care.

They say the future of India is with the smart and savy 20 somethings of today. I totally agree. This demographic is producing some great individuals with intelligent ideas but most of them leave to study abroad and never return to India. I spoke with a man around the age of 30 who works in the tech industry. He said 80% of his graduating class went to study abroad and took jobs overseas. Why work in India for 30k a year when you can work in Nebraska for 100k a year.

Everywhere in India you see people unless you go to remote areas of the Himalaya or the deserts of the northwest. People are everywhere. Population continues to grow and I don’t see the country pushing birth control. Condoms cost money. Why do you want to waste money on a condom. If India invested more money in education and infrastructure I think it would greatly help. In the meantime the vast majority of people are living in survival mode and in my opinion I don’t see how it’s going to get any better as long as the population continues to increase. This is a major problem for India.

Where did I get this info? I got it by listening to the people and viewing the situation firsthand. I feel for the people of India and am exceedingly grateful I have not been dealt such a card. It’s a tough hand. All said, I am giving you my perspective as a westerner and it’s just my opinion but I think there’s not much arguing that India as it is now, is not sustainable. This issue really bothered me as I traveled the country. I guess it was because of the poverty I was constantly exposed too. I believe India could do a lot better and for the sake of the people of India I hope it learns how to.

Back in Bangkok - Taking a Relax

I arrived in Bangkok around 7 pm on Wednesday the 21st via a flight out of Bombay (Mumbai). I didn’t much care for Bombay and after more than 5 weeks in India I was ready to move on to different things. I must say though that traveling India is a totally amazing experience despite all the hassles and extreme cultural differences. In the next day or two I’ll be posting some final thoughts on my travels through India as well as a topic that’s been on my mind the entire time I explored the country. The sustainability of India.

Today I felt like I was in a daze as I went for a short walk. I’m tired. I did a lot while I was in India and all of the senses were constantly bombarded. Bangkok feels like a quiet city in comparison to Delhi or Mumbai. I walked into a supermarket today and felt like it was a bit too much. So many choices and varieties of food! All neatly packaged and displayed in a way that would never work in India. I did not see a single supermarket in India. Everything is bought out of basic small shops that you can barely walk into. Selections were always minimal as most everyone prepares food from scratch. Spices are bought from a man selling spices. Oil is bought from a man selling cooking oil. Etc. I always knew what I could or could not get from a particular store. My shopping list was usually something like this. 1 pack of surf powdered detergent (2 rupees), bottle of water (12 rupees), package of cashew cookies (12 rupees), packet of shampoo (2 rupees), and a small sized Kit Kat (5 rupees).

I did manage to stumble into the Vietnamese Embassy today. Had I had my act together and paid a little more money, first thing this morning, I could have had a visa by this evening. Instead, my passport is camped out in the hands of Vietnam until 3 pm on Monday due to tomorrow being a holiday in Thailand. I’m taking this as a period of forced rest and I really have no problem with resting for now. I don’t plan on spending much time in Vietnam but since I’ll be so close to the country I’d like to see a little bit of it. My real interest is in Laos and Cambodia. If I like the countries I’ll spend a good month between the two. Tomorrow I’ll see about buying a ticket to Chaing Mai in Northern Thailand. From there I’d like to do a bit of hiking then jump the border into Laos.

While in Bangkok I’m staying in a really nice hostel in and area known as Sukumvit. I really like the place and am booked into a single room with A/C and shared bath (down the hall) for just under $20 a night. It’s extremely clean and well managed. It’s located on a quiet side street and right near the Sky Train which makes getting around Bangkok easy. The hostel is also very close to lots of good places to eat. Tonight I ate at a Japanese restaurant. For $4 I got a large bowl of veggies, noodles, and shrimp along with all I could drink iced green tea. If you eat at the nearby street stalls you can get a big dinner for about $1. Bangkok is the most expensive place I’ll be staying at while in S.E. Asia.

Aside of buying a train ticket tomorrow I’ll just be taking it easy as a I adjust to a totally different culture from India. I’ll also be plotting out the framework for where I’ll be going in the coming weeks. Knowing me, once I leave Bangkok I’ll be covering a lot ground before flying back to Texas in mid December. Looking forward to all of it.

India - Crash Cow

While in Goa I debated renting a motorcycle. I had this romantic vision of riding through the Goan countryside on a Royal Enfield. Since I could rent one for the day at a rate of $10 USD I seriously considered it. Fortunately I weighed the risks and decided although I was an experienced rider as a teenager it’s been a while since I've ridden a motorbike. I decided a scooter would be the safer choice. After all, I did not want to have a wreck and get hurt in a third world country.

I found a really nice modern Honda scooter to rent at a rate of $4 a day plus fuel. It was in great condition with good tires. All the rental man needed was the name of my hotel and advance payment then I was good to go. No release forms, contracts or anything like that. I took off conservatively and got the feel for the scooter real quick. I just had to keep reminding myself to stay on the left hand side of the road. I traveled quite a ways and checked out side roads and Beach's along the coast from Colva to Agonda. Goa is actually a pretty safe place to ride as many of the roads are of the quiet rural variety with little traffic. You’ve just got to be a little extra careful when passing through the villages. I stopped in Agonda for lunch before turning around to head back.

I was really enjoying myself and it brought back many memories of riding my Honda motorcycle all over the Texas countryside as a teenager. The Goan road I was on is just inland from the coast and rolls over lazy hills shaded by variety of tropical trees and vegetation with many palms. There wasn’t much traffic at all except for an intersection or two amidst the villages. It’s was turning out to be a very nice day and I was exceptionally careful. As I said before, I did not want to have an accident or get hurt in a third world country.

As I rolled into one village in particular I notice a cow stumbling along the side of the road just like one you might see on a 60 minutes news report about mad cow disease. I took note of this and slowed down as there were a number of cows along the road. I had passed quite a few during the day with no problem so I really wasn’t worried. A car came up behind me and started honking its horn which is considered a courtesy in India but I found it to be Little distracting. At the same time I was passing a pack of cows. I had slowed down and was in total control when all of a sudden, just like a mad cow in a 60 minutes new segment, one leaped out in front of me and I hit it hard. Square on in the side! The scooter kicked up on impact but I let go at the right time and hit the pavement as the scooter landed on it’s side. My first thought was,”Oh my god, I just had a wreck and got hurt in a third world country!”. I was pretty shook up but immediately rose to my feet.

I was astounded and amazed to realize I was virtually unscathed. Aside of two surface cuts that were barely noticeable and a very small patch of very minor road rash, on my back, I was perfectly fine. Nothing else. I was actually shocked to see that I had just hit a medium size cow followed by slamming on the pavement and didn’t get hurt. It just didn’t make sense! But as I’ve said before, logic doesn’t always apply in India.

When I crashed into the cow the driver of the car behind me got out and lectured about how I needed to be more careful and that riding a scooter in India is not like riding a scooter in England. I guess he thought I was British. He asked me if I was ok and took quick inspection of me then quickly drove off. It was then that I noticed I had crashed right in front of the village home who housed the owners of the cow I ran into. The family all stood out front and just smiled at me. They could not speak English and in India often times people will smile when they are embarrassed. I assumed the whole family was embarrassed. I was just soooooo happy that I wasn’t hurt that I smiled back at the family. I spoke to them in English but they couldn’t understand what I was saying. I sensed they were also very happy I was not hurt. I then settled down a bit and yelled Namaste (used as friendly hello/goodbye in India) to them and rode ever so carefully back to where I rented the scooter.

The scooter still rode alright but cosmetically it was pretty bent up on the front. I was worried about how the business owner was going to react. We had no verbal or written agreement as to what I’d be liable for if I damaged the scooter. When I arrived safely back I explained what had happened. The manager of the rental operation handled the issue. He turned out to be very nice about it and was more concerned about my well being than anything. He looked over the damage and asked if I could pay 700 rupees ($14) to fix it. I didn’t have to think about that one as it was more than fair! I happily handed the man 700 rupees and we settled it with a handshake. After that I got a beer.

Will I be renting anymore scooters in 3rd World Countries? Probably not. It’s just not worth the risk. So many things can happen. I figure you take enough risks just being in a 3rd world country. It’s just not worth it. I still can’t believe I didn’t get hurt. I wasn’t even sore the next day!

Bombay (Mumbai) - Scam on Arrival

Foreword. This is a different kind of post. I arrived in Bombay last night and ran into problems. I was never in any kind of real danger but I was put in uncomfortable situations. This all came after a train trip that was 3 ½ hours late and I hardly had a chance to eat much all day. Obviously that didn’t make things any easier. It was 11:30 pm before I got settled into a hotel and things hadn’t gone as planned. Needless to say, travel doesn’t always go as planned. I wrote the following, somewhat rambling story, after midnight, because I couldn’t sleep. India has been a roller coaster ride more than any other place I’ve ever traveled. Sometimes it really has a way of messing with your head. Here’s a view from the bottom of a quick and fast drop. I’ve decided not to edit so take into consideration I was frustrated and a bit out of it when I was writing.....

It's 12 midnight and I’m wired on an empty stomach. Sometimes traveling has its unpleasant moments and today’s arrival in Bombay was not good. The first mistake was arriving at the Lokmanyatilak Railroad Station. I should have been more mindful when booking the ticket. The station I arrived at is on the outskirts of Bombay which meant I needed to catch a rather lengthy taxi ride for a decent place to stay. Also, arriving 3 ½ hours late and at night didn’t help. However, I had a hotel booked and a plan of action for arrival.

When I got off the train I was immediately hounded by a taxi driver. I kept trying to shake him but he was persistent. I ignored him and went to the official taxi line to ask questions about approximate charges, if there was a prepaid stand etc. The one driver was still following me. I talked with other drivers about a flat rate, meters, etc. 4 separate drivers to be exact. I talked with one guy, who was officially dressed, and claimed to be part of the Taxi Union. He even showed me an official looking card. After randomly talking to other drivers who were not interested in taking me because they said the driver I was with was ok I went ahead and went with him. He knew exactly where I wanted to go and actually seemed fine once I let my guard down. So, with reservations, I got into the official looking metered taxi car. He assured me he set the meter etc. and we drove off following road signs to where I wanted to go. The drive seemed to be going ok until he brought up the subject of price and how much traffic there was. I knew what the price should be and told him I would not pay over 400 rupees before we even left. He pulled over and said are you sure you want to go on because we are already up to 350 rupees. Thus began the scam. He pulled around a corner and stopped next to a local train station and said it would be a good place to get out if I didn’t want to pay more. In reality where he stopped was a good place to get out but I wasn’t sure if there was someone else in on the scam or not. Feeling quite uncomfortable I got out of the car and checked the meter. The meter was totally non functional but he claimed I owed him 350 rupees. He was very clever at explaining things and remained seemingly nice. He acted like he was helping me out by dropping me off at a good spot so I wouldn’t have to pay more. But we still had an issue. He wanted 350 rupees. I calculated that where he had driven me was worth no more than 100 to 150 rupees. I think his scam angle was to convince people to pay him more by doing less and to eventually put his clients into an uncomfortable situation if need be. So, I refused to pay 350 and offered him a 100. This is where con men really mess with your head. He wouldn’t take it and told me to just go. No problem. But let me tell you. There is a problem. You just know there is and it’s not going to be solved until you give ‘em money. He wouldn’t take 100 so I offered 160. At that point he’s no longer the “no problem you can just go and don’t have to pay me anything guy”. He wants’ more. He definitely wants the 350. I wouldn’t give him anything else. A person standing nearby witnessing the exchanges shook his head at me like don’t give him any more. I flagged another taxi, handed him the money and walked away. He had reluctantly accepted the 160 and started bantering me with Anti American comments. The only I’ve received in India. It was a very uncomfortable situation and he showed his true colors in the end. What really threw me in this scam was how 4 other randomly picked official cab drivers told me the driver I was with was ok. Even after a month in India I still say it’s really hard to know who to trust in this country. Fortunately, I handled the situation as about as good as I could but really shouldn’t have had anything to do with him in the first place. Beware of the overly persistent friendly helpful stranger. Especially in India. I don’t care if it’s a taxi driver, cop, or anyone for that matter. Maybe I’m a little jaded but I’ve always been a good judge of character and I’ve surprised more than a few times while traveling India.

Anyway, while this was going on I had already flagged another cab. If nothing else I wanted someone to witness what was happening. Luckily the other taxi driver proved to be a good honest man. Once I got rid of the bad driver the good driver warned me about certain taxi drivers. He knew right off that the man I was with was a dishonest. Anyway, my new driver got me to where I wanted to go without a problem. But there were other problems soon to come.

After the conflict with the bad driver I had reservations about staying at the hotel I was booked into. He knew where I was staying and I began thinking, “What if he comes looking for me or something?” Ok, I know that’s being paranoid but Bombay is hitting me all wrong. Well, as it turns out that didn’t matter because the hotel I was booked into didn’t have a room for me anyway. Thus began my tour of dumpy dive guest houses and overpriced hotels. I finally settled for an overpriced hotel that wasn't too much to my liking but perfectly safe and ok for a night. Of course the entire time I’m looking for a hotel people are trying to hook me by showing me a different hotels or giving me a taxi ride. Hassles, hassles and more hassles. By time I finally settled on a place for the night there was nowhere to eat. All the restaurants were closed. I also began to wonder if my pack would be ok in the hotel room. Being hungry just intensified the situation. I was being irrationally paranoid.

Yesterday I could have easily extended my time in India but today….. I’m sick of India’s Bullshit. Pardon the profanity but it’s the most fitting adjective for right now. It’s 1 am. I’m wired, tired, and hungry. I can’t wait to check out of the overpriced hotel. I don’t like it.

Closing statement. It’s the following morning (Tuesday, October 20) and I’ve had a chance to calm down. After the unpleasant taxi driver confrontation I was thrown into a state of doubt about my own decision making process and angry at myself for allowing the guy to take me for a ride. When you have an experience like I just had it really messes with your head. It was hard deciding on a place to stay after that because everyone and everything became suspect in my mind. Irrationally so I may add but a good con man can really make a person question their ability to judge character. The fact is I knew better all along and that’s what really gets me. He was still able to hook me!.... The hotel I stayed at for the night definitely proved to be an overpriced mistake. When I laid down I noticed the bed had a strange odor and the sheets didn’t look fresh. I pulled the sheets back over and slept on top in my lightweight sleeping bag. In my flustered state I couldn’t even pick the right hotel. India is throwing me for loop just as I’m about to leave. I’m very comfortable traveling alone but when problems arise they’re always intensified when you’re by yourself.

Well, it’s the beginning of my final day in India. I’ll fly out tomorrow at 1 pm so I’ll go directly to the airport in the morning. Last night I slept poorly so I’m not sure if I’ll see too much of Bombay before I leave. Nonetheless, I’ll make the most of it and I have all day to sort myself out. With yesterday behind me I look forward to better times as I rise from the dip and reach the end of a roller coaster ride called, “Wild India”. I think when I step off the plane in Bangkok tomorrow I’ll breathe a big sigh of relief. Everyone says S.E. is a breeze after India and I've never met anyone who doesn't like Thailand. My flight leaves in 29 hours…..

Goa

For backpackers and most travelers the last stop on a tour of India is the Goan coast. The Indian state of Goa is home to miles of desirable palm lined beaches spilling into the Arabian Sea. The pace in Goa is slower and the hassles fewer. That doesn’t mean you won’t be approached by people on the beach trying to sell you everything from Goa chill out Cd’s to t-shirts but the delivery is more relaxed. Goa offers the traveler a chance to decompress from the pressures of traveling elsewhere in India.

Miles of coastline are lined with villages, towns, and plenty of resorts to match anyone’s taste or budget. There are places to party and places to be far away from it all. Some beaches are pristine while others can be kind of junky. The question is what beach? What place? I didn’t want a party beach and I didn’t want some large fancy resort beach. I wanted quiet but not isolated. I was looking for a balance.

When I got off the train in Margao I decided to head straight to the sea to see what I could find and took a bus to Benalum. When I got off the bus I Immediately met two Swedish girls that I had met when I was in Agra. I’ve done so much since then that I really didn’t remember them at first but once we got talking it all came back. They’ve been in Goa for awhile and directed me to a good area to stay that’s right on the beach between Benalum and Colva. For 800 rupees ($16 USD) I found a nice clean hotel room in a small basic resort. A large bottle of beer is about $1.75 and the beach is clean. It’s quiet but not far from the village of Colva and other simple resorts with restaurants. The best thing is that it’s a totally chill place. The staff is very easy going. No hassles and very peaceful. Just what I need. I easily found what I was looking for.

Goa is definitely a magnet for westerners and aside of local women walking on the beach wearing saris and the restaurant and hotel staff being Indian you might think you’re in Europe. Oh, I forgot about boys walking a cow or people playing cricket or the traditional fishing boats. No, this is still India. It’s just that you might hear more people speaking German than Hindi when you sit down at a western style beachside bar.

In the evening, after a sunset swim in the Arabian Sea, I joined an American/Venezuelan couple at nice beachside restaurant full of westerners. Mostly Europeans. We laughed about how we felt more like we were in the Caribbean. After over a month in India that’s just fine with me for now. On Monday I’ll be back in the thick of it when I arrive in Mumbai (Bombay).

Kerala Backwaters - Photos

Kerala Backwaters and on to Goa

I'm curently in Trivandrum killing a little time on the internet before catching a night train to Goa. Once there I'll seek out a quiet place and hopefully relax for three days before heading up north to Mumbai (Bomaby) for my final two days of India. From there I'll fly to Bangkok to start the S.E. Asia segment of this journey.

Yesterday I took a boat cruise through the backwaters of Kerala from Alleppey to Kollam. From there I took a taxi with 4 other travelers to the sea cliff resort village of Varkala. Kerala is known for an extensive network of channels that form inland and extend to the coast. Along the channels you can see a much different way of Indian life. One of the more popular ways to experience the channels is to rent a rice barge that has been converted to a houseboat. You can rent for one or several nights but it's quite expensive as a single person. As a group it's very affordable. I debated stopping in Alleppey but the backwaters interested me and I thought it would be ashame to at least not try to find a way to explore some waterways.

I decided to see what I could find so I checked into a funky place for the night and had a look around. the best option I was able to come up with is a government run tourist boat, run by DTPC, that takes 8 hours to travel south to the town of Kollom. The cost was 400 rupess ($8 USD. From what I could tell it would be very scenic. The office that I inquired at just told me to show up at 10 am the next day if I was interested. That evening I met a French woman by the name of Angela that was staying at the same place as I was. She had inquired about the same trip and thought it would be good. I decided to go for it.

When Angela and I arrived at the boat there were only 4 other passengers for a total a six plus a host, boat captain, and helper. We all got on the boat and were ready to go when they asked us for a 100 more rupees because there were only 6 people. Three of the passengers were German and refused to pay extra. The host threatened to cancel the trip because he claimed they needed to have at least 10 people. I was ready to pay the extra 100 but I let the Germans handle it. I could tell they were very experienced with dealing with these kind of things. The host made another call or two and came back saying, "Ok, 400 rupees". That's India. Always trying to get a little more out of you. Often they do.

The trip proved to be great. The boat was a really nice old fashioned wood variety. It was perfect for our small group. I really got to see a lot and we stopped at two places along the way. We passed homes, small villages, and people transporting items on boats not much different than they did a 100 years ago. Some of the waterways were wide but we passed through many narrower channels lined with palms. The company was good as well. The two 50 something Germans and their 16 year old son were very well traveled. The woman had some wild stories of driving trucks from Europe to Nepal when she was younger. The day was really going well. It was nice and relaxing until I began to loose my vision.

I've been covering a lot of ground in a short period of time. It all kind of caught up with me as I came down with one of the worst visual migraines I've had in a long time. I don't get them often but they seem to come out of nowhere. Fortunately I don't have painful migraines. Just visual migraines. It starts with a flash then all of a sudden I can't see very well. My vision is obstructed by squiggling flashing images. This time it was to the point where I could hardly see. Fortunately it was at the end of the ride as the sun was setting and I was in good company. We were all heading to Varkala and the Germans had already arranged a taxi for all of us. It was nice to not have to think as we piled into the large sized vehicle. After about an hour my vision began to clear but I was left with a heigtened sense of smell. As we rode with the taxi I was bombared by the scents of India. Burning garbage, exhaust fumes, dust, incense, etc. along with the hectic pace of rush hour. Being back in the madness of India helped relieve my migraine. Go figure. By time we made it to Varkala my vision was fine but I was kind of out of it. No worries. The Germans had reccomended a place for me to stay and knew where to go for dinner.

India has been a wild ride and today I feel like I've had my fill but that doesn't mean tomorrow I won't be thinking I could easily stay longer. With less than a week left I plan to take it as easy as India will allow. However, I have to admit that I'm looking forward to getting back to Bangkok. Ironically, I know I can really relax there. India can be a challenging place to fully relax.

Well, In three hours I'll be riding the rails again. This time on an especailly nice train. The Rajdhani Express. I've chosen 2AC and all meals are included. Looking forward to falling asleep on to the rhythm of a train rocking back and forth. On to Goa.....

Kerala - Munnar - Photos

Wild Elephants, Tea Plantations, and Fresh Nutmeg w, Mace.

India - After 1 Month

“When you leave you can give me your jacket because I need it”. The rickshaw driver I had hired for the two days I was in Munnar was really good. I didn’t even negotiate for a lower price on the second day but like so many times in India the people will disappoint you by asking for more money. Not only had he asked me for an extra 100 rupees after doing exactly what we agreed on but now he wanted my jacket. I gave him an extra 20 rupees but no way was I going to give him my jacket. He backed off. Often I think their rational is it that they know they will never see you again so they might as will push for a little more. In a way I can understand because I use to chauffer filthy rich people when I was a limo driver in Aspen. It was easy to fall into the mindset of if they have so much money they should be giving me a big tip. Sometimes I’d receive a large gratuity and sometimes nothing at all. Regardless, I always did a good job and ironically found when I got the tip thing out my mind and functioned on an unconditional basis I actually made more money. I was going to give the driver an extra 50 rupees but in the end I reluctantly gave him 20 because he had created an uncomfortable situation. I really didn’t want to give him anything extra after that. Once again I was left disappointed with Indian people. Regrettably, after a month in India I still find it very difficult to trust anyone here.

India is a desperate place and there’s not enough to go around. So many people are functioning on survival mode. As a westerner from America I’m viewed as a rich man and in India I am. Despite the fact that I make a low income by U.S. standards I can afford to walk around India with more rupees than the average Indian could ever imagine. With my clean cut look and American accent I might as well tattoo a dollar sign to my forehead. I’m overcharged just about everywhere I go unless I bargain. Often times bargaining doesn’t get the price down much because they know I’ll likely cave into their price and often I do. Many times I’ll find myself haggling over 20 or 40 cents and give in I realizing it’s not worth the hassle. In all honesty I don’t really mind paying a little extra here and there as long as I’m not conned or lied to.

So, India after a month…. Well, India is truly an amazing place. During the first week I couldn’t believe I was planning to be here for over 5 weeks but now I feel like I could easily go for longer. I actually thought of extending my time here but will stick with my original plan to move on to S.E. Asia on October 21. India continues to be a love/hate thing. One moment I’m loving it and the next moment I’m like, “What’s up with these people”, and “I’ve had enough!” But then the next moment I’m like, “Wow!” Indians are by no means my favorite people but the culture continues to fascinate me not to mention the sites. Now that I’ve been in India for awhile I think I relate to the people, culture and religion even less than before but feel quite comfortable traveling here. I know the previous sentence may not make much sense but lots of things don’t make sense in India. I come from a very different world and India is quite a riddle.

While traveling I’ve been exposed to so much of the day to day life of a simple person just trying to get by. Religion is such a big part of the Indian culture but this is another area that has disappointed me. In the past I’ve had an interest in Eastern philosophy. Much of it focuses on consideration and putting others first. Unfortunately, I don’t see a lot of the positive qualities expressed in Eastern philosophy actively practiced in ordinary life. You see a lot of people worshiping at alters and so forth but don’t expect anyone to be too considerate when you’re standing in line for something. It’s very much a me first, everyone for himself kind of world here. People can come across as being nice and some people are genuinely helpful but as a whole I’m not too impressed. A lot of this is because you really have to be careful about trusting anyone in India. I’ve come across some of the most deceptive people I’ve ever met in my life and it’s not uncommon to have a friendly person turn out to be someone who just wants your money. If you were to visit India on a packaged tour, or, stay at a Yoga Ashram at an inflated price then blindly throw money all over the place, you would find Indians to be amazingly friendly if not wonderful. Travel India on a budget and you will have a very different experience.

So, what do I like about India? It’s India! There’s no other place like it. So much history. So much culture. The sights, smells, and sounds. All of the senses are stressesd to the max. You see the most beautiful things and you see the ugliest things. The contrasts are like no other. India is a land of extremes. It causes one to take a look at their own life and see it in ways maybe not seen before. As a westerner it makes me incredibly more grateful for what I have. India is an, “In your face”, kind place and often times the person staring back at you is yourself. I think it’s impossible to visit India and leave without being permanently changed for the better is some kind of way.

India - Preferred Modes of Travel

India offers many modes of travel and each variety can greatly influence ones experience of traveling the country. My favorite mode of travel in India is by train. My next favorite is by government bus not to mention auto rickshaw for shorter distances. These forms of transport allow one to see and experience the real India.

With the advent of the internet it’s far easier today to arrange packaged tours with hired driver and modern AC vehicle. It’s really quite possible to travel India relatively easy on such an arrangement. I got to sample this when a couple of travelers offered me a ride from the Cochin airport to Fort Cochin which is 40km away. They had a driver with a plush new mid sized AC vehicle. Complete with clean white linen seat covers. On the way to Fort Cochin we stopped by their travel agent so they could sign some papers and finalize their completely planned packaged tour for a week in Kerala. Sure, the vehicle was very nice and everything perfectly laid out but by time we reached For Cochin I couldn’t get out of the vehicle fast enough. In a strange sense I felt far away from India staring through the tinted auto glass. My creature comforts in India are a decent play to stay for the night and a good place to eat dinner. Other than that I much prefer mixing in with life as it really is in India.

When I take a bus I might ask as to where to get it and what the times may be. Usually the hotel knows this info. I’ll then either walk or take a rickshaw to the station and inquire as to which bus is the one I’m looking for. Someone always seems to appear that helps me get on the right bus. I then get on and pay the fee when the conductor gets comes by. Buses are dirt cheap and always interesting to ride. I rarely see westerners on a bus and find observing Indian life while riding with Indians to be very interesting. Also, I like the wind blowing on my face with all the windows open.

The trains are fantastic. Although not up to European standards they are perfectly acceptable. Trains are really the best way to travel India and are always full. There are a number of classes. Those without AC are dirt cheap and those with AC are inexpensive by western standards. There’s second class non AC which I refer to as the cattle car all the way up to First Class AC which is nice but not necessary. The best value in 3 tier AC. Three tier means there are 3 beds stacked atop each other with the bottom bed serving as a shared bench seat during the day. All berths are assigned so no one can steal your place. My preference is 2 tier AC which offers more room and fewer people. You only really need AC class when it’s hot or your going on long overnight journeys, otherwise, the cheapest seat will do just fine for a short trip. Due to the popularity of trains it’s always best to book ahead and online. Buying a ticket at the station can be a real hassle. What I’ve found to be the easiest method is to find a good booking agent through a hotel or reputable business. If it’s someone who knows what they are doing they can advise you on stations, types of trains, etc.. The fee for booking is usually 50 rupees. About $1 USD. As a single traveler I’ve been able to book several tickets on a relatively short notice but haven’t always gotten exactly what I’ve wanted. The further you book in advance the better.

Riding the train is very peaceful. It can get a little hectic when it stops at the larger stations and people get on and off but it’s really no big deal. Sleeping on the train is quite nice as it hums and rocks back and forth. You’re provided clean sheets, a relatively clean blanket, and a pillow that may or may not be acceptable. When choosing a berth I prefer lower tier. It’s the only one with a window. There’s nothing like waking up at sunrise and staring at the countryside going by.
I have two more train trips planned for India. I’ll be riding all the way up the west coast to Mumbai (Bombay) starting in Trivandrum in the deep south. Before that I'll be taking plenty of busses and rickshaws….

Kerala - Munnar - Tea & Spices

By the miracle of jet propulsion I arrived in Fort Cochin on Friday, October 9. It’s located in the freely elected communist state of Kerala. Deep in the south of India. I caught an overnight train on the 8th from Jasilamar to Jaipur and immediately went to the local airport via rickshaw. I originally did not want to fly while in India but it would have taken about 4 days to reach Kerala by train and bus from Jasilmar and my time in India is running out. India is a big country and things don’t always move all that fast. From Jaipur I flew to Cochi with one stop in Mumbai. I was supposed to switch planes in Mumbai but lucked out when my plane from Jaipur just happend to be switched to the Cochi plane at the last minute. It was a lucky break because I would have had to go through security again while changing planes with a good chance of missing my connection.

The tropical Indian state of Kerala is quite a change from the north. It’s considerably cleaner although many people still don’t see any reason to use a trash can. Kerala is a freely elected communist state and has done a fine job of building some infrastructure. The roads are relatively good and it has an extensive reliable bus system. People are more relaxed and the pace less hectic than the north. Kerala is also more educated with a literacy rate over 90%. Communism seems to work here as Kerala is apparently better off than any other Indian state. Another interesting thing about Kerala is that it’s largely Christian. After seeing nothing but Hindu, Muslim and Buddhist influence for the last month it’s quite a contrast to see lots of churches. I have not seen a single church until arriving here. Yesterday I even saw nuns riding the bus. Instead of vehicles decorated with Hindu gods I’m seeing buses with Jesus in big letters across the top of the front wind shield. People are nicer here and so far seem a bit more genuine. Although I’m still getting hassled to buy things it’s not near as bad as the north.

After a rest day in Fort Cochin on Saturday I got up early to catch a bus to Munnar. On the way up to Munnar I noticed passing an occasional red flag with hammer and sickle. It seemed kind of odd for me as it brought up memories of the cold war with Russia and I've never associated communism with India.

Munnar is known for spices and tea. The town of Munnar is nothing special but the surrounding area with large tea plantations at an altitude between 5,000 and 8,000 feet is really beautiful. The temperature is cool yet tropical. The area mountainous, lush and green with banana trees. The air is clean and thick with oxygen but the towns still manage to be dusty and dirty. I checked into a spotlessly clean and well maintained guest house for 550 rupees ($11 USD). It also has hot water which has been something of a rarity in India.

After checking into the guest house I set out to get lunch. I chose a local place that was listed in the guide book. When I arrived it looked ok. I ordered food and as I waited I had one of those moments where everything seemed so foreign. Even though I’ve been in India for a month it still seems strange to see people eating like cave men with their right hand. Slopping up and mixing rice with the fingers and inserting the mixture into mouth. This is a the traditional way of eating here. Most all of the rest of the world uses some kind of utensil and I quite fancy chop sticks in Asia but in India I cannot get use to the eating with hands unless I have a chapati (whole wheat tortilla) or something like that. Can I have a spoon please? When my vegetarian cauliflower dish arrived I thought there had been some miscommunication because I was sure it was some kind of meat dish. I picked and poked at it but what I thought was meat did not look quite like meat. I signaled the waiter to come over and asked him what I had ordered and if it was vegetarian. He said it was indeed cauliflower and potatoes. The cauliflower was actually brown like meat. It smelled strange but ok. I know that southern Indian food is a lot different so I decided to give it a taste test. I took one bite and was convinced if I were to take another bite I’d be doomed. The dish was bad. Well,at least I think it was bad? I signaled the waiter again and told him I did not know if it was me or what but I could not eat the food I was served. He was very nice about it and only charged me for two chapatis which I could eat. It’s the only meal I’ve turned down while in India. I left the restaurant not knowing where to go next. That’s when I met a really nice rickshaw driver.

The rickshaw driver took me to a good place for lunch and offered to take me on a tour, for a very reasonable price, afterwards. For 300 rupees ($6 USD) he assured I would have a good afternoon. He asked for 100 up front so he could buy petrol while I was having lunch. He seemed trustworthy so I gave him 100 rupees and after lunch he was sitting outside waiting. He then proceeded to take me on a very scenic ride amidst the mountains stopping at a few view points to look at the tea plantations. After awhile we arrived at a spice garden.

Ok, when you read all of those stories about explorers who sailed in search of spice 500 years ago Kerala was where many of them wound up. I’m not always one to get too excited about botanical gardens etc. but the spice garden proved to be pretty awesome thanks to my nose. When I arrived I paid 100 rupees for a guide. It was well worth it. For an hour he took me around and showed me plant after plant pulling off leaves, chopping off roots, and picking fruits. All for me to taste, touch, and smell. It was the smells that blew me away. Everything was so fragrant, so pungent. There were the usual spices of basil, allspice, etc. but some of the exotic ayervedic spices damn near knocked my socks off. It was totally intoxicating. The guide laughed at my enthusiasm. After the spice garden my driver showed me some other sites as the clouds moved in and the temperature dropped. Clouds draped the mountains. Being very happy with the rickshaw driver I made arrangements to hire him the next day.

Rajasthan Village People - Near Jasilmar, India

Jasilmar - Camel Safari - Photos

Pen?

I met this man in the Rajasthan desert near Jasilmar, India. After a short talk he asked me for a pen. I just happened to have one and gave it to him. He replied with a big smile and never asked me for money.

Jasilmar - Camel Safari

October 6, 2009 - The Jodhpur train station can be quite confusing at 5:45 am when the car numbers don’t fall in sequence and you’re not even sure it’s the right train. I ran up and down asking people but was confused by the answers I got. “Yes, this train is going to Jasilmar but not this train”. What the heck does that mean? I was very confused and stopped to ask a Sikh. He seemed to know what was going on but his answer was as confusing as the others. Finally he just pointed and said, “Go that way”. All the way down to the far end I ran thinking the late train would be taking off any minute. I finally located my correct car but couldn’t figure out why it was on the wrong end? I got on and sat for awhile before we started moving. It was then that I realized the train was being split in two. The same train number was going to two different places in two separate directions. Of course! That makes perfect sense. Luckily I was on the right line.

I arrived in Jasilmar around noon. I was approached by a man on the train who said he had a nice new nice guest house in the city. He handed me a very smart looking brochure and walked off. After I had time to view it I asked him a few questions and agreed to check it out with no obligation. If nothing else it was a free ride into town. He hooked four of us. When we stepped out of the station I couldn’t believe my eyes. There was a crowd of guest house and hotel owners with big signs advertising accommodations with desert tours etc. All yelling like a riotous pack of wolves trying to get anyone’s attention. They were all held back by a police line to keep things under control. I wanted to take a picture of the mayhem but the guy who hooked us rushed us past the crowd and to a vehicle like rock stars after a concert. It was me, a Canadian, and two Brits. We were all thinking the same in that we would check out the accommodation and if nothing else take advantage of a free ride. You never know what you’re really getting into in these kind of deals but the place he took us to just happens to be great. It’s a nice old building that’s recently been converted into a guest house and just opened 2 ½ months ago. It’s owned by an Indian/Australian couple. It has everything you need with an awesome rooftop restaurant that offers a fantastic view of Jasilmar Fort. I inquired about doing an overnight camel safari. No problem. They already had a group of 4 leaving tomorrow and I was welcome to join them. I would be provided transportation, camel, food, and guides along with basically everything I need for the two day excursion. I went ahead and booked the trip and paid in advance, as required.

Jasilmar is awesome. I really dig this place. It’s right on the fringe of the Middle East and has a much different feel from the rest of India. The old city is an ancient fortress built upon a hill and people still reside there. Situated in the middle of the desert it's dirty, dusty, and all of the buildings are sand colored. Camels pull large tin containers of water, filled at a designated wells, along the main road in and out of town. It’s a very poor city with tourism a prime source of income. Not seeing many tourists I can understand why the train station was so busy.

Jasilmar and parts of Rajasthan give a traveler a taste of what Middle Eastern culture is like without the dangers of traveling in the Middle East. A lot of the culture is tribal village oriented and many of the people look and dress very similar to the people of Pakistan and Afghanistan. The nice thing about Muslims in India is that they could care less if you’re an infidel or whatever and don’t walk around with AK47’s. You can hear prays shouted over a city and see men dressed in traditional attire. Muslim culture is very prominently seen in the architecture of many buildings.

I spent my first evening in Jasilmar at the hotel rooftop restaurant with other travelers. At one point a local showed up and entertained us with Bollywood dance demonstrations. Tomorrow I’ll be riding a camel in the Desert.

October 7, 2009 – I began to second guess my choice of camel trip when I thought about the extra 500 rupee’s I was charged for a so called permit. When I rolled into Jasilmar I was tired and relaxed. I had let my guard down and the guy who was selling me the trip was telling me everything I wanted to hear. Needless to say he was doing a good job of it and logistically it was the perfect choice. I still couldn't be totally sure as to what I was getting and afterwords was pretty sure I'd been conned out of 500 rupees for a permit.

Fortunately a trip was arranged and I was joined by 2 the two Brits. The other group of 4 that I was told I’d be joining never materialized. The Brits were a couple of older guys with one of them particularly skeptical about what we were getting. I just figured I’d go with it and sort out any bogus permit charge afterwords.

THE VILLAGE

As promised we would stop a village and a couple of Jain Temples on our way into the desert. Upon arrival at the village it looked quite decrepit with not much to it. One of the Brits was totally unimpressed and didn't even bother to leave the jeep while the other was at least going to walk around a bit. I definitely wanted to check it out and decided to say hi to some of the local people. This was not a guided affair. It was just a village and we were on our own.

I couldn’t tell you their names but the people of the village were super nice and wanted to show me around. No one spoke much English but we were able to communicate enough to interact reasonably well. Two of the men wanted to play me a song and invited me into their home. The home was made of mud and dirt similar to adobe. The entrance way led into a court yard. The open courtyard was surrounded by the rest of the structure which was made up of 3 or 4 rooms. Although everything was built with dirt, mud, and a little wood framing, things were really neat, clean, and orderly. I was taken into a small room and a man brought out a tabala (Indian drum) while the other brought out an ancient harmonium (small hand pumped piano). The keys were broken and chipped with finger formed grooves deeply worn into the wood. Surprisingly it was in reasonably good tune. A thin hand woven traditional carpet was laid upon the dirt floor and I took a seat. Other family members sat as the man at the Harmonium sang, with a big bold voice, a song combining my name and country with the words. Since it was all in Hindi I have no idea what he was singing about but I thought it was pretty cool as the other man played a rhythmic tabala. A younger boy sat next to me and seemed particularly curios and acted as a host. They played one song then another. After a couple of songs I gave the Harmonium player 20 rupees (40 cents) and the tabala player 10 rupees. They accepted it as a gift and were very appreciative. The young curios boy wanted to show me another home.
The home that the boy took me too was similar to the one I had just visited but a little more decorated. One wall was covered with trinkets, art, and shelving for pots and pans. He really wanted to introduce me to what I assume were his siblings and insisted I take photos. I took a number of photos but I had a hard time getting them to smile for the pictures. I was taken into one room and he pointed to what appeared to be a neatly stacked small pile of colorful cloth. He then reached down and with two hands slowly peeled back a thin blanket to reveal a tiny one month old baby neatly wrapped in traditional cloth. I was not expecting to see what I saw and was very surprised to say the least! The baby was so tiny because Indians tend to be small people but the baby looked healthy. It was really an amazing experience.

I could have spent a lot more time in the village but had to get back to the two other guys who were waiting on me. After all, this was just a brief stop on our way to ride camels in the desert. I explained to the young boy that I needed to leave and gave him some rupees. He seemed much more interested in spending time with me than the rupees. Unfortunately I had to go. One of the many pitfalls of an organized tour. Limited flexibility. After the village we visited two Jain temples then drove further into the desert to meet our camel driver.

CAMEL SAFARI

I was told that we would be joining another group of 4 people but that never happened. It was me and the two older Brits. They were nice enough and we got along ok but one proved to be quite the penny pincher and a skeptic about what we were sold and what we were getting. This attitude unfortunately proved to put a damper on the whole affair. What we got was actually pretty good.

The jeep driver dropped us in the middle of the desert. Baba, a 50 year old Rajpu Camel driver and his two young teenage helpers, Allahdin and Saddam, were just arriving with the camels as we drove up. Babu greeted me with a friendly pat on the shoulder and introduced us to the camels as he packed food and supplies. You could tell right off that these guys know the desert and their camels. It wasn't long before we were riding. About 5 minutes into it I was glad I signed up for the overnight trip and not a 3 or 4 day trip. Riding a camel is not particularly comfortable. I think it takes some getting use to but the view while riding is very nice. I was originally told that we would ride for 1 ½ hours then take a lunch break and ride another 1 ½ hours to camp at some sand dunes for the night. After just 10 minutes we took a break so the camels could drink at a well pond. Babu said we should take a walk to the adjoining village. It was there that I met a colorful turban clad individual who asked me for a pen and we talked for awhile. I just happened to have a pen on me so I gave it to him. He was very happy and never asked me for money. Anyway, with the Camels watered we rode on for another 20 minutes and stopped for lunch. The skeptical Brit had me and the other guy wondering just what kind of Camel trip we were getting.

We parked ourselves under a big shady tree for lunch and Baba and the boys quickly got a fire going and made everything from scratch. Curry vegetables and chapatti were prepared with relative ease and quickness. The food, although quite simple, was good and filling. Afterwards the boys washed the dishes with sand and proceeded to take a quick nap. I noticed the camels had wandered off and were nowhere to be seen. Ok, now I was really skeptical.

After a short nap it took Baba and the boys awhile to find the camels but they did. Once they were brought back to the lunch tree they saddled and packed them really quickly and we were on our way once again. This time for real. As promised we rode for quite awhile. I actually got off the camel to walk and give my rear a break. As we rode along I got to know the boys and Baba a bit more and figured we were in good hands. They are all Rajasthan natives that from the very desert were in. We chatted back and forth. Allahdin spoke very good English and said he learned it mainly from people he had met on the tours. I’m not sure if he had ever attended school or not but he's a sharp kid. Saddam was quiet and spoke mostly Hindi with a crackling boy’s voice on the verge of turning into a man’s voice. Baba spoke decent English with a thick heavy accent. The kind of accent that adds to the ambiance of whole experience.
We rode into the afternoon and sure enough we arrived at some sand dunes with a very nice campsite. When we arrived there was a man sitting there with a used burlap bag lined with a plastic type of used rice bag. He said, “I have cold drinks. Coke, orange, beer”. I asked him where he came from. He replied that he walked in from a village 6 km away. I then asked if he really had cold beer and sure enough he produced one from his pack. I was happy to pay him 130 rupees (less than $3 USD) for the large sized bottle of Kingfisher. Packing in cold drinks is how he makes money. The dunes are relatively popular for camel safaris during the cooler seasons so he seemed to have a good little business going.

Baba and the boys fixed up another good meal from scratch and we made up our beds on cots under the stars for the night. As soon as the sun went down everyone pretty much went to sleep but I hiked up the dunes to sit and watch the moon rise.
By early morning the desert had turned cold with a light ground fog but this quickly changed as the sun rose. I got up early a took a hike amidst the dunes and returned in time for a breakfast of chai and toast. I had spotted two other camps and the Brits were interested in visiting them. The penny pinching Brit was curios what the others paid for a similar tour. We had all paid 2,000 rupees ($40 USD) for the whole deal which in my opinion, considering all we were getting, is extremely reasonable. We walked over and talked to a group of Koreans at another camp. They were getting the same kind of tour for 700 rupees, $14 USD! How does anyone make money? Answer, they don’t. The people of the Rajasthan desert are very, very, poor. I came to find out that Baba makes approx. $40 USD a month and his boys make $20 USD a month. I’m talking about good hard working people. Anyway, the penny pinching Brit felt like we were being ripped off and got me and the other guy feeling bad about paying too much. I suggested we needed to be thinking in pounds and dollars and what we were getting was far less expensive than what we would get in other countries. The only thing that really bothered me was the 500 rupees I was charged for a permit that doesn’t exist. That bothered me.

Anyway, we set off for another day of riding which was different from what I was told but really quite nice. I was originally told that we would be visiting bigger and better dunes the second day but we didn't. However, the desert landscape was very interesting and a large part of it seemed to be covered with a volcanic type of gravelly rock. I also got to talk and joke around with Baba and the boys. I really liked them and felt being in their company added value to the trip. When we visited the other two camps in the morning the other camel drivers seemed a little shady and the camps were not as nice. The desert around Jasilmar along with the local culture is a bit like the wild west so I think being in the right company is a good thing. Baba, Allahdin and Saddam are the right kind of company.

We rode camels all morning and stopped for lunch near a remote road. A jeep was scheduled to pick us up at 1pm but before that Baba fixed lunch of curried vegetables and chapatti from scratch. I gave Baba a nice sweater I had bought earlier for the trip to the Himalaya. I also explained to the Brits that we needed to tip Baba and the boys. We came up with a figure and all pitched in. Baba was happy with the tip but he seemed to be happiest with the sweater I gave him. It would have been nice to spend another night in the desert with Baba but my rear was happy to be off the camel. We parted with big hugs and smiles.

Now, what about the bogus 500 rupee permit I paid for? I was ok with paying a relatively higher price for the camel tour (higher by local standards that is) but being outright lied to and ripped off is another story. The Brits were all worked up about paying 2,000 rupees when they could have gotten a tour for 700 rupees but they really should have shopped around before making a decision and didn’t. We returned to the guest house where we booked the trip and immediately found the couple that owned the hotel. They did not set up the tour. One of their employees did. I nicely told the owners right away that I wanted 500 rupees back and explained what happened. He said he would look into it. The penny pinching Brits handled things a little differently and got into a big argument about how they were over charged. I removed myself from the situation. It was getting ugly. The owners had offered me free use of a room and shower before catching a train in the evening so I retreated to the room. I could hear the owners and Brits shouting at each other at this point.
By time I washed up the Brits were gone and I made my way up to the rooftop restaurant because I still had a couple of hours before catching my train. The owners were on the roof and I sat down with them. They had already given me back my 500 rupees and sincerely apologized for what had happened. They were also very appreciative that I had told them about it. Their guest house is only 2 ½ months old and they know better than to get a bad reputation amidst travelers. The owners are both 30 something’s. Ashraf was born and raised in Jasilmar and Penny is an Aussie who has spent many years in London. The name of their guest house is Apollo guest house. The rooms are very nice, clean, and inexpensive. The food is very good and the kitchen very clean. Penny makes sure of it. As far as Camel tours go, you can definitely find less expensive, but I’d say be careful who you choose to venture into the desert with and be perfectly clear about what you’re getting. Anyway, I had a nice visit with the owners, who I feel are sincere and genuine, before catching an overnight train to Jaipur and a flight to Kochi in the southern state of Kerala….. Time to move from the Desert to the Tropics…