3 Months - 5 Countries - Bringing It Home

From the craziness of Delhi to the serenity of Hemkunt Sahib in the Himalaya to a placid strong flowing Ghanges amidst the bathing Ghats of Varanasi. From the Taj Mahal to the deserts of Rajasthan where I rode a camel and slept in the desert. From the tea plantations of Munnar to the backwaters of Kerala to a swim in the Arabian Sea along the shores of Goa. From Bombay to Bangkok to skies filled with Chinese lanterns above the city of Chaing Mai. From Thailand to Laos and a trek through jungle forests. From a boat ride up the Mekong to a remote village to a Buddha park outside Vientiane. From a dodgy crossing into Vietnam to vast flourishing rice paddies once known as the DMZ. From the countryside of Hue to the tourist enclave of Hoi Ann to the intriguing city of Saigon. From the Mekong Delta up the river into Cambodia. From the killing fields to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat. Then back to Bangkok. Three months has never passed so fast for me……

I arrived home exhausted with the worst case of jet lag I’ve ever had. I’ve been home now for a week and a half and am finally starting to come around after catching up on more than one rerun of Mr. Ed at 4 am in the morning. I’m now able to sleep in until 6am. As is the case with many mountain top experiences I’m coming down from a high which is leading me into the valley of post trip funk. It’s no wonder considering where I’ve been and the fact that I had ample time to adjust to cultural differences. In a sense, I’m going through a bit of reverse culture shock.

I love to travel and I get a buzz out of experiencing something new all of the time. I feel especially alive when I'm on the road. When I eventually arrive back home it's especially nice because I’m usually quite tired. Once I catch up on rest and settle back in I quickly start thinking about the next journey. For example, a 100 mile walk across the island of Corsica is sounding pretty good for sometime next year. Aside of the usual desire to roam I’m also left with deeper contemplative questions of life and purpose? For the most part, it’s good and positive stuff.

Not all trips are the same. Some leave more of an impression than others. My recent journey has left me with an element of experience I believe to be life changing. I feel different due to what I’ve seen and experienced. Today I was thinking about all of the life stages and phases I’ve gone through. I consider myself a person who is constantly evolving and I’d like to believe for the better. Not just for myself but for others I may know or meet along the way. I’m mostly left with an enthusiasm and excitement for the future. I feel very lucky to have found a path that keeps kindling a passion for life despite whatever bumps in the road I may encounter.

Thougts on Cambodia - Part 2 - The Not So Pretty

A week in Cambodia is not much time at all. It’s just enough time to look around and to see that the country has a lot of potential. Although Cambodia is entrenched with ancient history it’s a very young country in a lot of ways. As I’ve mentioned, everything seems to be run by people in their 20’s and younger but from what I can tell there’s a good work ethic amidst the general population. Also, I didn’t notice any outward signs of impending civil unrest which is good for attracting tourist and investors. I believe the desire of most every Cambodian is to be able to earn a good quality of life and to live in peace.From what I can tell things look good for Cambodia’s future but as a traveler passing through you never really know what’s just below the surface. There are a couple of disturbing issues that do stand out.

The most apparent issue is with the flow of foreign investors money in and out of the country. With so many foreign developers creating businesses in Cambodia and taking profits out of the country I fear that Cambodia may not benefit as much as it could. I’m all for free enterprise and capitalism but a weak government coupled with loose laws and corruption can negate any sense of fairness. I was amazed by all of the Lexus SUVs’ and other expensive vehicles I saw in Phnom Penn. It was really quite strange considering how most everyone in Cambodia is very poor. As with most all 3rd world countries a frighteningly few have msot all the money as everyone else lives in poverty. I wouldn’t be surprised if the few with all of the money in Cambodia aren’t even Cambodians.

The most disturbing thing about Cambodia is its current ranking as the #1 destination for sex tourists. It’s especially popular for pedophiles. Cambodia’s moral compass is confused. Considering the history of the country it’s not so difficult to understand why. It’s not uncommon for some families to sell or offer their child into the sex industry in order to make a couple of dollars. Yes, just a couple of dollars. In reality, despite a couple of profitable tourist enclaves and Lexus vehicles in Phnom Penn, Cambodia is a very poor country. Real poverty can cause people to do some awfully desperate things.

A nice benefit to traveling with my friend Deb, while in S.E. Asia, was that I never got solicited for sex when I was with her. However, if I walked the streets by myself at night offers were common. I'm totally averse to prostitution and am completely disgusted by the mere thought of pedophilia. The Cambodian authorities have outlawed sex with a child but in some cases police may actually be involved in promoting it. All with the motivation of making a couple of dollars. A prostitute can be bought for the entire night for $5 and the money is split several ways. Sex is sold all over the place for those who are interested. The most blatant I saw was a street just off the Phnom Penn water front. It was lined with clubs suggestively named and you would have to be stupid not to know what goes on in those places. Actually, this is problem in many parts of S.E. Asia but in Cambodia it is especially bad.

Fortunately some offenders are being prosecuted and a number of nongovernmental organizations are involved with combating the issue. For those who are interested in knowing more about the problems and what can be done about it here’s a link to an organization that a friend of mine works for: http://transitionsglobal.org/volunteer.php

Fortunately, for the most part, Cambodia seems to be moving forward towards the better. It’s not like the Cambodian people aren’t aware of the issues I’ve disclosed. The combination of outside investors, NGO’s, and the history of Pol Pots' regime combined with greed and corruption is bound to create an air of uncertainty and distrust amidst the current populations. This could take a lot of time, if not generations, to sort out and overcome. My hope is that Cambodia finds a clear moral compass. Hopefully this will lead to stronger leadership amidst its own people so they can live and prosper freely under a just government. Well, that’s my ideal hope at least…

Siem Reap - Angkor Wat - Cambodia

The bus ride to Siem Reap from Phnom Penn was pretty straight forward and easy. We had arranged for transportation through the hotel and were first picked up by a minivan packed with backpackers before being shuttled to a full sized bus at a nearby station. We departed on time and about halfway we stopped at a roadside station/restaurant for lunch. Deb and I didn’t think anything of sitting down and eating but we were the only westerners to do so. If I were just starting my travels I probably wouldn’t have eaten where we did but perspectives change after awhile in the 3rd world. I greatly enjoyed a large bowl of fresh veggies and noodles served up by a staff of young people with oldest barely 20 something.

Upon arrival in Siem Reap we were deposited at a station on the outskirts of the city. The prepaid fee for a Tuk Tuk was one U.S. dollar per person which seemed reasonable. We told the driver where we wanted to go and he claimed the hotel was no longer open. The closed hotel scenario is a very common scam. The take is when the driver offers his help by delivering you to another hotel where he receives a commission. I figured I was on to it but as it turned out the prepaid Tuk Tuk service was totally legit and the hotel we wanted was indeed closed. I was pleasantly surprised by the honesty. Our driver cheerfully took us to another place of our request. Tuk Tuk and taxi drivers are generally hard to trust in Asia.

Siem Reap first appeared as a noisy and dusty small city. We walked around a bit and found a really nice hotel located down a side alley which was much quieter. We secured a clean large room with 3 beds for $7 a night. Two beds for sleeping and one bed to throw our stuff on. Once we were settled in we headed for the tourist enclaves of Bar Street and The Alley. Siem Reap attracts many tourists from all over the world and there’s a section of the city that caters to all of the tourists needs. Deb and I needed food and beer so we settled on a place that offered dinner for $3 USD and included a beer. Again, everything appeared to be run by people in their 20’s and younger. However, I suspect by the way businesses are set up they are probably mostly owned by westerners.

Our only real objective in Siem Reap was to spend most of our time during a three day period touring the ancient temples of Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat is a large temple complex with a variety of temples spread amidst the country side. The first structures were originally built around the 12th century for a king. At first Angkor Wat was Hindu but it eventually turned Buddhist. Many of the structures are either well preserved or nicely restored. Everything is built with stone blocks and many show various types of religious and non religious carvings.

The best way to visit Angkor Wat is to rent a simple single speed bike for a $1 a day and ride all over the place. We got a little bit of a late start the first day which turned out to be for the better. If you start too early there’s a chance you will be overrun by tour bus groups. Aside of the main temple complex the crowds were not bad unless a tour bus was present.

For three days we cycled all over the place and roamed amidst the temples. Angkor is a huge attraction for people visiting Cambodia and the locals take full advantage of profiting from it. At every temple a visitor is approached by vendors trying to sell books and trinkets. Many places have make shift food stalls and the patrons of such stalls are constantly trying to get you to stop for a drink or food. The touts can definitely get excessive but the good thing is that everyone is friendly and lighthearted about it. While taking a break near a stand selling trinkets a woman tried selling me various souvenirs. I was clear that I didn’t want anything but she persisted. She would show me an item and ask a high price. I’d continually say no until she got down to a really cheap price. When she became convinced that I really didn’t want the item, she would put it down, smile, laugh, then pick up something else and repeat with the same approach. It was actually quite entertaining. After awhile we were both laughing at each other. In the end I didn’t buy anything but I must admit 3 custom Angkor Wat t-shirts for $5 USD is a good deal.

On the third day we got up early and biked in the dark to catch a sunrise over the main temple complex. Needless to say it was beautiful but we reached max wattage by mid morning and just couldn’t bear to look at any more temples. I don’t know what it is but it’s very common to burn out on viewing temples. It’s funny how utter amazement the first day turns into,” I can’t take it anymore”, by the third day. There are only so many temples and museums a traveler can visit in a set amount of time. After that it’s just too much. All said, Angkor Wat is beautiful and amazing place.

Images of Cambodia

Back Home and Craving a Beer at 5 Am

After being on the road for a little over 3 months and passing through the countries of India, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia my journey has come to an end. Deb and I parted ways in Bangkok on the evening of December 14th. I headed to the airport for home and she planned to take a train to Malaysia the following day. After a little while in Malaysia she will travel on to New Zealand for the rest of the winter. We had a good time together and I will miss her company.

It was a 28 hour trip to get back to Texas. I flew Bangkok > Seoul, Korea > Dallas > Houston. I saw the sun rise twice and hardly slept. It was bumpy all the way across the Pacific but the Korean Airlines Stewardesses kept everyone well fed and hydrated. Notice I used the politically incorrect word, "Stewardesses" instead of "flight attendants". We don't have "Stewardesses" anymore in America. Based on observation "Stewardesses" retain an element of elegance, style, and service no longer seen in "flight attendants". I think I prefer a nice foreign "Stewardess" staffed air carrier over American based airlines when flying overseas.

I arrived home crazy jet lagged. This morning I awoke at 3am and was immediately wide awake. I could not get back to sleep. By 5am I was ready for a beer because on the other side of the world it was 5 pm. Maybe a beer would have helped by making me sleepy but I headed to the gym instead. Three months of traveling through 3rd world countries is hard on the health so after my workout I went on a shopping spree at Whole Foods. Holy Cow!!! Things are expensive in America! I stuck to sale items and got a bag of apples for free when I noticed the register rang them up at the wrong price.

So, what's next? Work. Yes, my bank account necessitates a definite need to work. I'll coast through Christmas and put things into high gear after new years. I'll likely be traveling again by late spring but I have no definitive plans. I think next year will be mostly hiking oriented within America and Europe.

For now it's good to be home and I'm ever more grateful for what I have. Especially considering where I've been. I really have no reason to complain about anything. Life is good. As usual I consider myself a VERY lucky man....

A Good Travel Buddy

A good travel buddy is hard to find. It's not uncommon to run into other travelers along the way and team up for a few days but beyond that it's hard to find someone who is compatible for longer periods of time. I usually travel alone and generally prefer to, however, I enjoy traveling with the right kind of person. It's great to share the experience and to have someone to bounce things off of. It can also make things easier and often times a lot more fun. I met Debs over a year ago while hiking the Camino de Santiago in Spain. She joined me again in the Spring while walking in Wales. When we met up in Thailand I wasn't sure how long we would be traveling together. I figured a week or two then we would go our separate ways. One week led into another and before I knew it we passed through 4 countries in a little over a month and half. Here's a few photos of my good friend Debs in Vietnam and Cambodia....

Photos - S-21 and the Killing Fields - Cambodia

These are a few photos I took while visiting S-21 and the Killing Fields of Cambodia. I didn't take many pictures. I was not inspired to take photos and felt a little odd taking the few I did.

Thoughts on Cambodia - Part 1

Cambodia is the last country I visited on my current tour through S.E. Asia. Time got the better of me so when I finally arrived I barely had a week to spend between the two main cities of Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. However, the limited time I spent there was enough to leave quite an impression that has evoked a lot of thought. I’ve decided to post my impressions of Cambodia in two parts along with events of my travels while there.

If you want to visit a country searching for an identity I recommend Cambodia. I guess that’s what happens when a governmental regime exterminates all those who are educated, business minded, creative, not of a pure ethnic religious background, and/or suspected in anyway of disagreeing with how things are being run.

Cambodia experienced a horrible genocide from 1975 to 1979. Under Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge frighteningly large numbers of innocent people were rounded up and sent to work camps, prisons, and/or executed. The idea was to start the country anew by ridding it of people who were seen as a threat against forming a truly pure Khmer society. If you weren’t seen as pure Khmer death was imminent. Sound familiar? Pol Pot carried out horrid acts of terror amidst his own people for four years until the Vietnamese ran him out in 1979.

By time Pol Pot was dethroned an estimated 2 to 3 million people were dead. A definitive number has yet to emerge as mass graves are still being found. Some graves contain 10’s of thousands of victims. The country was left utterly devastated mentally, socially and economically. Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge in their attempt to create some kind of sick pure society destroyed anything and everything Cambodia had prior to Pol Pots reign.

Today Cambodia is on the up and up but it still has a long way to go. Cambodia has been described as a nation overcoming post traumatic stress disorder with a skewed moral compass. The people are a mixed bag of personalities but for the most part nice, friendly, and hard working. However, there’s something missing that’s hard to describe. There seems to be an element of confusion similar to what you might see in a young person trying to find them self. Perhaps it’s because everything seems to be run by people in their teens and twenties. Tourism is really growing and Cambodians are happily taking advantage of the opportunity to make money off of tourist. Things are changing quickly and business is very competitive. Overall, I like the Cambodian people and can’t help but feel a heavy heart for all they have been through.

Deb and I entered the country by boat via the Mekong River from Vietnam with a group of backpackers. The 2 day journey was set up through a local tour operator and everything went fine as we were shuttled from bus to boat to floating hotel to boat to bus. No problems with the border crossing. One thing I’ve learned on this trip is if there is any chance of a problem crossing a border, arrange to cross with a tour group or something of the like. A single westerner or two is much more likely to run into a border scam as opposed to a group of 10 or 20 crossing with a tour group.

Our first stop in Cambodia was Phnom Penh. Phnom Penh is a bustling community of contrasts. It’s a third world city full of new Lexus SUVs, Land Rovers, and Four Runners amidst a sea of motorbikes and motorbike Tuk Tuks which look a bit like a motorcycle pulling a chariot cart. There are plenty of touts from Tuk Tuk drivers and people selling things but unlike other countries they usually take no for an answer the first time. Those who are more persistent do it in a fun loving way so the hassle too isn’t too bad.

Phnom Penh is now seeing a lot of outside investors trying to get in early as the country continues to sort itself out. I’m not really sure who is running the country. I assume there’s some sort of communist government but I’d say foreign capitalist and nongovernmental organizations are pulling all the strings. The upside is that building is happening, infrastructure is taking hold, and rising tourism is pumping the good 'ol American Dollar into the economy. It’s quite odd going to an ATM in Cambodia and having it spit out U.S. Dollars. The dollar is king in Cambodia. Everything over a dollar is dealt in dollars. Everything under a dollar is dealt in the Cambodian currency of Riel. There are no coins and no one wants them. The downside to the upswing is I’m not sure just how much the Cambodian people are actually benefitting from it all. For example, I was shocked to find out that Japan owns the Killing Fields near Phnom Penh where foreign tourist pay $2 each to visit with just a small percentage of the earnings going to a Cambodian black hole known as the finance ministry. I also heard a story about a Korean company that has built hotels and runs Korean tours using only Korean run buses, accommodation etc. In other words some foreign companies may be reaping large profits out of Cambodia by taking advantage of loose trade regulations etc.,. I also suspect corruption is widespread if not the norm.

When Deb and I first arrived we checked into a family run accomodation on the Phnom Penh water front that we dubbed as the Hobbit Hotel. Ten bucks got us a small but clean windowless room with two beds and air con. The low ceilings and yellow painted walls gave the room a wacky feel. Not to mention the short steep steps that led to a narrow hall leading towards the room door. It really was like stepping through the looking glass. When either one of us sat while the other stood the person standing looked oddly disproportionate and large. The size and dimension of the room played tricks on visual perception like a carnival fun house. Turning on the TV and watching a Will Farrell movie after drinking 3 fifty cent mugs of beer just added to bizarreness of it all. It was one of those quirky wonderful kind of places that backpacker travelers like myself love to find.

Our main objective in Phnom Penh was to visit the S-21 genocide museum and the Killing Fields. For me it somehow felt like a chance to pay my respects to humanity. I’d like to say that I wanted to visit in order to make some sort of sense of it all but I knew that would be impossible.

On the recommendation of a friend we chose to visit S-21 first. S-21 was originally a high school that was turned into Pol Pots most notorious prison killing facility. 18,000 passed through its grounds with only few captives making it out alive. There are a number of rooms with a single metal bed and a photograph of a tortured dead victim as it was found when the Vietnamese liberated the prison. That’s the way the tour starts and it’s pretty much all downhill from there. Other buildings were converted into small makeshift rooms with tiny prison cells. Objects of torture are shown here and there. Lots of interpretive panels, set amidst the grounds, explain what went on. The feel and energy of the place is heavy and thick. The horror experienced by those who passed through is unimaginable to me.

In the afternoon we continued on to the Killing fields where victims of S-21 were disposed of. It’s located about 15 kilometers outside of Phnom Penh. The site is made up of a number of mass graves that have all have been exhumed. The thousands of skulls and bones that were collected now lay neatly stacked upon shelves inside a tall tower like Buddhist stupa. It’s a fitting monument to all those who were killed but it’s still hard for me to comprehend what took place on those very grounds. Maybe it’s just too much for a normal human being to fully comprehend such a horribly inhumane event.

The actual setting of the killing fields is quite peaceful with shady trees and footpaths. Deb and I took our time walking around. Ironically there’s a school right next to the site. It was a little odd hearing school children play as we toured the grounds thinking of what once took place there.

Needless to say it was a very heavy day for both of us but worthwhile as well. Somehow I feel like visiting places such as S-21 and the Killing Fields gives me a chance to pay my respects to those who perished under a government run by a mad man. It brings me more in touch with the fact that unthinkable atrocities created by humans really do happen. It’s not just some Hollywood fictional film dreamed up by a dark minded writer. It’s reality. The most horrifying thing I saw, which I also completely blocked out until Deb reminded me, was the baby smashing tree. Try to wrap your mind around that one!?!?!?

After visiting S-21 and the Killing fields Deb and I were ready to get out of Phnom Penh. I think that’s the best thing to do. Phnom Penh has kind of heavy vibe about it and once you visit the places we visited you really just want to move on after that. Our next stop would be much more upbeat as we planned to visit the famous temples of Angkor Wat and the city of Siem Reap. The following day we hopped on a bus at 7:30 am and were on our way…….

Images From Vietnam

The Woman Drank Snake Wine!

“This is the best. Here we have rice wine with seven poisonous snakes. Would you like to try?” Deb stepped up as the guide dipped a ladle into a large jar of rice wine with 7 dead poisonous snakes and some kind of bird. He served her a shot with a couple of other backpacker dudes and on the count of three they drank it up. I was very impressed. I don’t know many women who would drink snake wine. Not only was I impressed but I was almost inspired to do the same. Regrettably I did not try the snake wine for fear of hallucinating or something like that. Deb may have an aversion to rats and roaches but if the wine bottle has a cobra in it there’s no problem.

We spent 3 nights in the cool mountain city of Dalat before heading to Saigon and the Mekong Delta. While in Delta we broke my rule of not renting motorbikes in 3rd world countries. The average rate for an all day rental is $5 so we spent a day riding around the countryside and hiked up a big hill for generous views of the surrounding area. Deb and I made a good team for one bike. I focused on the driving while she navigated. Fortunately, I did not crash into a cow like India. Vietnam is virtually free of livestock on roadways.

The trip from Dalat to Saigon was breezy easy. We booked tickets on the nicest bus which costs us around $7.50 each for the 8 hour trip. We lucked out when it dropped us directly in the area we wanted to stay near Phan Ngu Lao. It’s a very busy area bustling with activity but we spied a quiet alley with several backpacker hotels and found and an amazingly tranquil place in the middle of it all. Our first impression of Saigon was much better than we expected.

Saigon is a city of 7 million people and 5 million motorbikes. You don’t see a lot of cars in Vietnam but motorbike scooters are everywhere thanks to the Henry Ford attitude of China. Seeing how the Vietnamese were all riding bicycles because no one could afford a car China approached Vietnam with an idea. Taking the numbers game into account China’s goal was to get as many people motorized by offering brand new motorbikes for $300. The country enthusiastically jumped all over the idea and motorbikes filled up the roadways in no time.

It’s wonderful that the people of Vietnam have a way to get around but it’s quite a challenge crossing the street. The best method is to simply walk into the traffic at a slow and steady pace. The trick is once you start moving don’t stop. Stopping could be dangerous. While crossing I get a sense of what it must have been like when god parted the Red Sea. Motorbikes closely pass without running into me. It’s quite amazing. It now feels perfectly normal to walk into 4 lanes of busy traffic with hardly looking both directions. It’s kind of magical in a way.

We spent a whole day in Saigon visiting Independence Palace, the former headquarters of the South Vietnamese Government, and the war relics museum. I was most fascinated by Independence palace as I’ve seen the film footage of tanks rolling through the gates when Saigon fell in 1975. Let’s not forget the 58,000 American soldiers and countless others who died trying to save what it stood for. It was quite interesting roaming through the meeting rooms, residence quarters, bunkers and war room where the American backed South Vietnamese tried to establish and hold on to Democracy. After the palace we headed to the War Relics Museum for the North Vietnamese take on the war.

I must admit that the War Museum was very interesting with its photos and American war relics, planes, tanks, bombs, etc, etc,. The most impressive displays were the photographs taken by number famous war photographers who caught some amazing images in the thick of battle. Naturally, everything was clearly slanted to make the North Vietnamese seem like wonderful people who were brutalized by the heinous American Aggressor. No doubt the war was horrible and very controversial but they failed to mention that many of their own people despised the North Vietnamese Communist aim. Also, I didn’t see anything about how the North Vietnamese rigged bombs on small children to blow up Americans etc. Stuff like that happened. I know an American Vietnam Vet who saw his buddy blown up right in front of him as he offered a village kid some chocolate. Nonetheless, the museum brings up some interesting questions about the war, which in my opinion, really never should never have happened. There are always two sides to every story and usually both sides bring up valid points.

Deb and I enjoyed the high energy vibe of Saigon minus one incident. I was walking along a street near the edge when I saw a 100,000 dong note laying on the ground (worth about $5.50). I casually picked it up and proceeded to walk on. I was a fair distance from other people and someone, most likely a tourist, had obviously dropped it. Well, if you’re a white person like myself walking down the street in Asia you’re always being watched by someone. As I began to walk on some local guy, who saw me pick it up, ran over and started yelling at me. He was very aggressive and I asked him if he knew who it belonged to. He made signals like he knew who it belonged to and was aggressively demanding I give it to him. He didn’t speak English and when I resisted giving it to him he grabbed my arm and pulled the money out of my hand. I really don’t like it when someone aggressively approaches and lays a hand on me. I almost knee jerk reacted by punching him but didn’t. I just let him have the money, gave him a bad look, and walked away. I really didn’t care about the money and if he would have approached me nicely and claimed he was the one who lost it I would have simply given it to him. I did the right thing by letting it go and wished I had never found the money in the first place. When we walked back down the street a little later I stared right at him. He shamefully turned away and wouldn’t look at me. What does that tell you? 100,000 dong may not seem like much to a Westerner but in Vietnam not many people are fortunate enough to make that much in a day. I would rather have given it to a beggar on the street than have a suspected liar and a thief aggressively pull it out of my hand. It was a very unpleasant experience but I quickly got over it with a beer. Often times the best thing is to do is forget about it and let Karma work it out.

We left Saigon on a two day packaged budget tour to the Mekong Delta that included a border crossing via boat into Cambodia and transportation to Pnohm Pen. The idea was to travel with a group of other backpackers and an English speaking guide to avoid anymore border problems.

It was on the tour that Deb drank snake wine. Where are we now? After an easy border crossing and beautiful boat ride up the Mekong River, Deb and I arrived in Pnohm Pen. It’s time to pay our respects to the horrendous tragedy of Cambodia. In the late 70’s over 3,000,000 people were senselessly murdered by their government. On arriving in Pnohm Pen Deb and I immediately notice a very different vibe from the rest of S.E. Asia……

Life In The Loophole - Drifting Through Vietnam

I’ve now been traveling for nearly 3 months. While doing so the earth has been spinning steadily as it faithfully makes its way around the giant fireball in the sky. Miles of walking, long bus trips, mixed food, and varied sleep have made me giddy with exhaustion. The next two weeks are sure to pass in a snap and home is certain to feel strange when I return in mid December.

Until then I’ll continue to live life in the loophole. American dollars turned into 3rd world currency allow a commoner to live the easy life for months on end. Lovely $10 hotel rooms, meals for a buck or two, lengthy bus trips for a pittance, and no real responsibility make me wonder how I’m ever going readjust to what now seems like the crazy high price of average American living. It’s all relative I suppose.

My friend Deb has been a good travel mate. People think we are married. I think it’s kind of funny but she always makes it a point to let people know we are only friends. Deb is a very independent woman whose only real love is fried food and her dog Jake. We get along well and watch each others back which just makes travel easier. We both get less hassle traveling together and needless to say enjoy each others company. She’s a good bloke…

Vietnam has turned out to be a surprise for both of us. We had heard mixed reports about the people but overall have found them to be perfectly fine if not really friendly. In the tourists areas you do run into some hassles and touts but usually they are really nice about it.

We are now in Dalat. It’s a beautiful hill city that reminds me more of Europe than than S.E. Asia. I told Deb that I thought it was a bit like France. Upon nightfall we noticed a large in town radio tower all lit up and looking just like the Eiffel Tower only smaller.

When we arrived we were first greeted by motorcycle taxi guides known as an Easy Riders. We met several at the bus station but told all of them we wanted to walk. We left the bus station for the city center and paused to look at our map. An Easy Rider appeared on the street to offer us help with directions and to suggest a hotel. We agreed to check out his hotel suggestion but refused a ride. He then left and we walked on. We assumed he was long gone but when we came to a busy intersection he reappeared to show us the way. He then left us alone but met us again at another intersection. This happened a few times. His approach was always, “Excuse me, can I help you?” When we thanked him and/or told him we were fine and did not need his help he would disappear only to reappear anytime we stopped to look at our book or map. When he saw we had enough of his offer to help he would say, “Ok, sorry, sorry”, then disappear again.

When we arrived at the hotel he told us about he was standing at the door to greet us and immediately showed us the room. It was good but we wanted to check out other places before deciding. We thanked him and got the usual, very polite, “Ok, sorry sorry”. We went on to walk on our own through the city but he kept reappearing like an apparition at various hotels. “How about this one?" How about this one?” It was actually getting downright funny the way he would disappear and reappear. Basically he was trying to earn a commission by referring us to a hotel. Finally I nicely put my foot down and he seemed to back off for good. So I thought. I must add that he was very nice, polite and friendly so Deb and I behaved the same.

So, eventually Deb and I settled on a place, dumped our packs, and went out for dinner. That’s when he reappeared again. “Maybe tomorrow I can give you a tour”. I’m not sure how the both of us were going to fit on the back of his small motorbike but I’m sure he didn’t think it would be a problem. Deb stressed the point that we were not sure what we were doing the following day and were not interested.

After about an hour or so at a restaurant I needed to run back to the hotel to get my jacket and guess who appeared again. “Excuse me, Excuse me”. I waved him off and tried not to laugh. There was something humorous about his approach. It’s was downright unbelievable how nice, polite and persistent this guy was. I also started to feel kind of sorry for him. He was trying so hard. I returned to the restaurant and told Deb what happened and she couldn’t believe the guy was still on us. It was going on over 4 hours.

I began to feel more sorry for the guy and told Deb I was just going to give him some money. She discouraged it for good reasons and had a valid point that if I just give him money it might give him the idea to be more persistent with other travelers. She also reasoned that his behavior was above and beyond unusual. Was it a desperate Easy Rider hurting to make a buck or a guy with obsessive tendencies?

When we left the restaurant guess what? He appeared again. “Excuse me, Sorry, Sorry. Tomorrow I can pick you up at 7 or 8:30 for a tour?” He was incredibly polite but Deb very nicely and firmly told him no. He seemed to take it all right and finally responded with a simple “Ok”. We watched him ride off into the darkness and actually felt a mix of guilt and sadness for the poor guy. He was just so nice and polite but Deb and I were simply not interested and in our exhausted state, from a long day of travel, didn’t want to make and plans……

We kind of half way expected to see him the next morning in front of our hotel but I guess he finally got the message. After a couple of days in Dalat we will head on to Saigon and make arrangements to take a boat up the lower Mekong River and cross into Cambodia. I'm steadily making my way back to Bangkok where I'll end this journey and fly home.

Vietnam - Support Your Local Motorbike Guide

I met this man in Dong Hoi and hired him to show me around on his motorbike scooter. He took me to the Ho Chi Min trail and showed me a big bomb crater. Although he spoke no English I understood his excellent impromptu hand signal sign language and made a new friend.

Vietnam - So what have I been up to?

Vietnam may have started out poorly for me and Deb but things have certainly turned around. From Vihn we remained off the tourist track for a couple of days in Dong Hoi before heading on to Hue.

Deb and I had heard mixed reports on Vietnam and the people but we are finding them to be really nice and friendly. Especially the young people. Actually, it seems like almost everything is run by people in their late teens and 20’s. The younger generation appears to be very motivated, hard working, and entrepreneurial. I’m finding it to be quite refreshing. As Deb and I walk down a street it’s very common to have people say, “Hello”. We respond with a “Hello” and the younger kids really seem to get a kick out of it. Often times they giggle and laugh. Lots of smiles without much, if any, hassle.

The only real problem we’ve run into in Vietnam is getting overcharged but we’ve wised up to it very quickly. Many restaurants don’t have prices on the menu so you actually have to negotiate what you’re going to pay when deciding what to order otherwise you’re at the mercy of whoever writes up your bill. In touristy areas you find prices on the menu but in other places it's hit and miss. I’ve been able to negotiate a meal to about half of the original asking price.

A big disappointment are the local buses. Try to buy a ticket at the station and you’re lucky if they will sell one to you one. They claim they can’t and you have to buy it on the bus. So, the only option is to buy the ticket on the bus and overcharging westerners 2 to 3 times is the norm. That’s only half the problem. If the bus is a 25 passenger variety you can count on it being packed with 50+. Our bus ride from Dong Hoi to Hue cost us over twice as much as the advertised price and we were crammed into a back corner for 4 hours. The alternative is to opt for a train or tourist bus. Both are much less expensive when you consider the overcharge you’re almost always guaranteed to get stuck with on a local bus.

Hue is an attractive city with a nice appeal. There’s a very touristy area where most travelers stay but a short distance away is a narrow alley packed with several hotels and a few small restaurants. Everything is geared for the budget backpacker traveler. The quality of accommodation is really good and you can find a nice clean room for $8 to $15 USD. A good meal will set you back about $3 USD and a 16 ounce bottle of beer costs around 50 cents.

As a middle aged American male I find Vietnam War history to be very interesting. I see the Vietnam War as one of America’s worst mistakes but I also find it tragically fascinating. I spent an entire day in the area once known as the DMZ. It was an arranged tour so I piled on a bus with about 15 others.

We first visited a wide open swath of land that was nothing but miles of bomb craters during the war but is a now full of rice paddies. After that we went on to a village where the inhabitants lived in tunnels during the bombing. While there we spent about a half hour or so touring the cramped tunnels with small rooms just big enough for a family of 4 to huddle together. The afternoon proved to be more interesting with a visit to the famous Marine lookout known as the Rock Pile. We finished with a stop at the former site of the American Khe San air base. All of these areas were run over by the North Vietnamese. Hamburger Hill and other famous sites are located in the general area. Looking at these places today makes it hard to believe that they were once the closest place to Hell. There is remarkably little left to indicate there was ever a war aside of a monument here and there celebrating the North Vietnamese victory. I’m left with an utter respect for the soldiers who filled their duty and served but I’m also left with thought, “What the hell was our American Government thinking at the time?” The war was undoubtedly a horrible waste. Nothing was gained and an enormous amount was lost.

On Wednesday Deb and I rented bikes and I just followed her. Yesterday, while I was visiting the DMZ, she biked around the area and visited villages and mausoleums amidst the countryside. She wanted to see more. Off we went and I was surprised at how quick and easy one can peddle out of the city.

The streets of Hue remind me a little of India. They’re mostly filled with bicycles and scooters with a few cars and trucks mixed about. Again, it seems like everyone is in their 20’s. No one is moving too fast and there’s a perfect orderly chaos to it all. Deb put it best when she said, “It’s a good not to use your brakes”. So, I just followed Deb and abstained from using the brakes. We rolled into the countryside past villages on paved, dirt, and single track trails around rice paddies and visited a couple of impressive mausoleums. There are numerous mausoleums around Hue where various dignitaries of the past are laid to rest.

While cycling about we took a chance at a nice looking local restaurant. As is generally the case no one spoke any English and the words on the menu could not be found in our book for translation. We took a chance and ordered with prices on the menu. What we got were two heaping plates of fairly bland fried tofu and white rice with peanuts. Hey, when you can’t decipher the menu and no one speaks any English it’s an adventure. You never know what your going to get. The rice was good so we ate that. The tofu? Well, some of it was eaten. We were still slightly over charged on the bill but it wasn’t worth the hassle of sorting out. After that we rode into a pouring rain and back into Hue.

Its already been a week since arriving in Vietnam and today we find ourselves in Hoi Ann. It’ a lovely city whose original European style buildings survived the Vietnam War. The downside is that it’s overrun by white skinned Farang tourists and touts to buy this and that are common. However we found a great hotel for $8 USD a night and the city town is very nice. This will likely be a short stop for us as we continue our way south along the coast of Vietnam.

A Few Photos From Laos

Trouble On The Border

On Thursday Deb and I crossed into Vietnam via one of the more remote border crossings from Laos. We had heard stories of people running into problems at some of the remote borders but weren’t too concerned. In our interest to get off the tourist track, also known as the banana pancake route, the intention has been to see more of the real Laos before it turns into another Thailand. Tourism is really on the rise and things are changing rapidly.

We started at Na Hin which is known for a nearby cave and potential trekking possibilities. Our original plan was to do some hiking and possibly visit the cave. Upon our arrival, the previous day, we found the hiking to be quite limited and Deb had no interest in floating a boat through a dark cave. With my time running out and many more sights on the agenda we had decided to press on to Vietnam.

We started our trip to Vietnam in the back of a covered pick up type truck that serves as a bus of sorts. An hour later we arrived in Lak Sao. Nothing touristy about Lak Sao. It’s a dusty town with one busy intersection. The single redeeming factor is a dramatic mountain backdrop. It has a border town feel with trucks loaded full of goods headed for Vietnam. As soon as we arrived we searched for the bus station and found it in a dusty lot surrounded by a market.

It made the most sense to head to the Vietnam city of Vinh for our first night. The only option was a worn out 15 passenger bus that was being loaded to the hilt with produce and various goods. The bus looked ok so we paid the inflated 3x locals price for a ticket and waited to leave in an hour or two. We kept a close eye on the bus to make sure it didn’t run off without us. We suspected it would only be carrying 4 or 5 passengers because so much stuff was being loaded but in the final moments before we departed about 20 people appeared out of nowhere and got on. The most worrisome was a group of young Vietnamese men in their 20’s who were sauced on local Lao Lao whiskey. The worst one of the bunch sat right next to Deb reeking of booze. Deb said not to worry. She could handle it.

The drunk kid wasn’t obnoxious for too long before he passed out and Deb just shoved him the other direction. His friends got a good laugh out it. With the ring leader out the others relaxed and became surprisingly good company. We picked up a few more people along the way and made our way up to the mountain border. The bus was jam packed.

The border was shrouded in misty cloud and quite cold. When we arrived we all got out and headed to Laos immigration to check out of the country before proceeding across a small river into Nam. Deb handed over her passport and got it back quickly but with mine there appeared to be a problem. I sensed the real problem is that I’m American and can’t do a darned thing about the $ tattooed on my forehead.

The immigration official flipped through the pages like something was missing but nothing was. He acted confused and gave me blank looks. None of the immigration officials acted like they could speak a word of English but the fact is there was absolutely nothing wrong with my visa or passport. The official took me aside and gave me a perplexed look. I pointed to my visa and the appropriate stamps. My visa had been voided and I told him he just voided it but he still acted like there was a problem and didn’t understand. I was led to another office to meet with a different official. Deb and I were worried so she ran after the only man on the bus who spoke any English. He reluctantly agreed to help and fortunately became my interpreter. He told Deb there wasn’t really anything wrong they just wanted money.

So, there I was with a voided Laos Visa that they voided but no exit stamp. I was literally being held at the border. I explained through my reluctant interpreter what I had been doing in Laos. I actually had two Lao Visas due to my failed attempt to get a visa for China on the China border. I gave them a clear story but they just turned the China thing against me and were confused why I didn’t have any kind of stamp from China. The bottom line was that it was all a bunch of crap and I was being robbed on the border. My reluctant interpreter took over. He explained what was going on and to wait in the hall. Meanwhile the officials just kept flipping through my passport. The whole thing was quite unnerving. I didn’t know what to think.

When the interpreter came out he said they wanted $200 USD to fix the problem. My immediate reaction was more of outrage than anything. I didn’t have $200 USD because I had already spent $70 on two previous Laos Visas. I told him I had a $100. The interpreter went back and returned to me saying that if I couldn’t pay there was a problem. I may have been outraged but fear began to take hold. I started to think there might be a potential for me to appear on the TV show Jailed Abroad.

Deb was keeping a low profile which was wise but also kept on top of what was going on. The other bus passengers were really patient and seemed concerned. I decided it wasn’t worth fooling around anymore when the interpreter had to leave. I got some more U.S. Dollars from Deb.

The one other guy working on my side was the young 20 something Laos conductor from the bus. He had been in the background watching everything and knew what was going on. I communicated to him that I had $200 and wanted to take care of the problem as soon as possible. From that point on it was all hand signals and I stood in the background with my mouth shut. He took $100 and told me to hold the other $100.

I don’t know what he said but he handed the immigration official $40. The official waved his hand. He forked over another $20. The money went in a drawer and the official slowly got up to hand over my passport to another for an exit stamp. My passport got stamped and was handed back to the conductor. He waved me on and we literally ran out of the building via a back hall exit and hustled over the border. He gave me a big expression with a”whew” and handed back the remaining $40 dollars. I tried to give him $20 for the help. Heck he could have kept the $40! But he wouldn’t take it. I thanked him profusely as we met back up with Deb.

When we crossed the Vietnam border the conductor signaled for us to give him the passports and we stood in the background as he handled it. We didn’t have any problems entering Vietnam.

With all of the traveling I’ve done I guess I was bound to eventually run into a situation like the one I found myself in. The experience was stressful and somewhat scary because you’re in a foreign country, can’t speak the language and are essentially at the mercy of the border officials. However, 99% of the time all a corrupt border official wants is money. They’re good at messing with your head and making you think the problem is more than it really is. That’s how they get people to pay. I suppose many would just fork over the $200 and get out of Laos but someone more bold, clever, or lucky may come through such a bind without paying at all. Somehow I got out of a $200 problem with $60.

All said it’s kind of a shame that I left Laos on such a sour note because my overall opinion of Lao people is very good. Based on my experience I consider them to be the most trustworthy in S.E. Asia. They’re very pleasant, easy going, and friendly.

After the border crossing we continued down to Vinh for the night but weren’t out of the woods yet. We switched buses and drivers shortly after arriving in Vietnam. When we got to Vinh we assumed the bus would drop us at the bus station but it just stopped along a busy street. Deb and I were not sure whether or not to get off and the driver told us to stay on. Once the others were away he drove around a corner and Deb sensed we just needed to get off and grabbed our packs. That’s when the driver demanded more money. I started yelling at the driver that we already paid and Deb yelled at me to get off. We jumped off with the driver shouting as we walked away.

Amidst dark streets and no one speaking English we found our way to a good hotel, food, and 25 cent draft beer. Needless to say, it was a rough day but the cheap Asian beer helped take the sting out of the scam.

Going On The Go..... In Laos

When you’re traveling on the local buses of S.E. Asia your never really sure when you’ll get a chance to use the toilet. The only buses that have toilets are limited special VIP buses which are generally intended to serve tourists and only run on certain routes. Deb doesn’t consider herself a VIP and is uncomfortable with the title. I quite fancy the local bus because it makes me feel like I’m really traveling and it's always more interesting.

Everyone is generally on the driver’s mystery program when it comes to toilet stops but if someone really has to go the driver will usually pull over without a problem. However, people can be a bit shy about asking for a special stop along a roadside that may or may not provide ample privacy in the view of a bus load of people.

I’m not sure why, but Deb likes to drink two cups of coffee and a liter and a half of water just before boarding a bus. When we left out of Vientiane at 7am on Wednesday Deb was fully hydrated.

The bus was packed with locals and once again we were the only westerners. The hot humid weather of two days prior was long gone and replaced by cool dry air which was making the ride very comfortable. Laos & Thai pop music videos entertained us with a small top mounted TV screen holding everyone’s attention as we rolled along into the rising sun. That’s when Deb told me she really had to go. A half hour later she said she REALLY had to go!

“Do you have the book?” Deb frantically fumbled through the pages trying to figure out how to ask the bus driver to stop. She really had to go. She said something to the conductor but got a confused look. We later figured out that her mispronunciation was something about a garden. At this point Deb was really hurting. Her face took on an expression of desperation. Finally, a really nice older gentleman, who knew some English, figured out what Deb needed and asked the driver to stop. He must have said it was urgent because the driver pulled over immediately.

I was laughing as Deb ran out of the bus and flew over a fence into a bunch of bushes. Everyone had been curiously observing Deb and had closely watched her when she ran off. They instantly knew what was going on. All of a sudden the placid group of fellow passengers rose from a silenced slumber as the entire bus rapidly exited. People ran off everywhere. From my perspective it was quite hilarious and I joined the crowd. Deb was not the only one who really had to go.

People ran across the road into trees and bushes while the less bashful didn’t go very far. Women helped their small children while others lit up cigarettes. Everyone took advantage of the stop and no one seemed to think it was anything too out of the ordinary. It was awhile before Deb reappeared with an aura of relief…. She really did have to go!

On the Road South To Vientiane - Laos

As the bus was rolling down the highway, towards the end of an 8 hour turned 10+ hour bus ride from Luang Prabang to Vientiane, a herd of cows decided to run across the road causing the bus driver to hit the brakes. On a scale of 1 to 10 with India usually running at about an 11, I'd give the Laos road cow factor a rating anywhere from 0 to 3. Anyway, the driver avoided hitting the cows but something within the break system broke. Fortunately the bus was able to limp along until it conveniently gave up in front of one of the numerous open air bar restaurants found all over Laos. It took very little coaxing in Debs part to get me to join her for a large bottle of beer on an empty stomach.

Breaking down wasn’t so bad after all. Several others got the same idea when it became obvious we would be there for awhile. As we sat drinking a lovely bottle of Beerlao, while breathing the smoke of burning plastic, a fellow passenger joined us. Deb and I were the only two westerners. Oh, one a scale of 1 to 10 with India usually an 11, I’d give the burning plastic smell a 5. Anyway, the passengers name was something that sounded like Don and he teaches secondary English in Luang Prabang but is originally from Vientiane where we were headed. His English was ok but not great. Good enough to teach secondary school though. So, we ordered another beer and continued to watch some guy try and fix the bus.

As is usually the case in third world countries buses get fixed with some kind of miracle mystery part and a little creativity. Sometimes faster than you expect. In my haste to get money out of my pocket to pay for the beer my flimsy chair feel backwards due to the weight of my daypack hanging on it. When I sat back down I landed square flat on the concrete. In this particular instance drinking on an empty stomach worked in my favor as I felt no pain initially and was a little puzzled by what happened. The locals had a good laugh and I took a bow knowing I’d be sore the next say. Remarkably I wasn’t.

Back on the bus we got and fortunately the creative repair held good enough for the bus to limp into the station at Vientiane. A lady who had been carrying two chickens in two separate tattered bags joined us for a tuk tuk ride to the city center. Vientiane is basically a visa run for Debs Vietnam Visa. We obtained one for her effortlessly through the guest house we are staying at. They deal directly with the embassy in Vientiane. All she had to do was provide one passport photo and her passport. No paper work or anything. She got it within hours. The bonus is that it cost less than anywhere else.

Let me go back in order to catch things up. From Luang Nam Tha it was a full day’s bus ride to Luang Prabang. Luang Prabang is a beautiful place, set next to the Mekong River, where a traveler could easily lose track of time and stay longer than planned. Although it’s quite touristy and full and westerners it still retains a very nice appeal. We spent two full days in Luang Prabang with one on the Mekong as we traveled with an Australian lady up to a village that her son had stayed at 4 years prior. While there we visited a local family that her son stayed with. The day turned out to be a story in itself but not for this post.

From Luang Nam Tha we passed on the exceptionally scenic limestone cliffs and rivers of Vang Vieng due to reports of hashed out river hippies floating on inner tubes and opium laced fruit shakes. Obviously there’s more to Vang Vieng than that but the town just wasn’t appealing to either one of us so it was a long day to Vientiane.

The overwhelming highlight for me in Vientiane was the Buddha Park. Some guy back in the day built all kinds of large Buddhist and Hindu cement sculptures on a park like property next to the Mekong. The most prominent piece is one of an exceptionally big reclining Buddha. It's quite a bizarre and eccentric kind of place but really cool and interesting. Other than that Vientiane is nothing particularly great. It’s a fairly basic large capitol city near the border of Thailand. It’s quite European in certain ways due to the French influence of days gone by. Yesterday was warm and humid but today turned cloudy and cool with a passing front that turned the skies cloudy with morning rain.

Tomorrow (Wednesday) we’ll start making our way towards Vietnam due to our interest in spending time along the Gulf of Tonkin and the South China Sea.

China - So Close, Yet So Far

As Deb and I sat at an idyllic local Laos beer joint, built over a scenic rice paddy, we talked about our brilliant idea to cross the Chinese border for a week or so. The guide book said we could get visas at the border in Boten and we had asked around a bit. Everyone seem to think it wasn’t a problem. Our idea was to do some trekking in the Yunnan province and see a bit of China then return to Laos. The assumed relative ease of crossing the border and its close proximity made it a temptation we could not resist. I was looking forward to posting on Facebook that I was in Xishuangbanna. Deb got us sorted out with transportation and we both asked around to make sure we would be able to get visa’s. Everything appeared to be fine.

When we got on the bus we began to second guess ourselves and thought it a bit too easy that we could just show up at the border and get a visa on arrival. After all, China is a communist country that likes to maintain a fairly strict control over things in general. However, our understanding was that Boten is one of the only places you can get a visa on arrival.

There was an oddly dressed British punk rock couple sitting on the back of the bus. They looked to be in their 40’s. Bizarrely out of place and perfectly anti-social. I tried to start up a conversation with them to find out if they knew anything about visas. They would not acknowledge me at all and stared blank face ahead like zombies with their oversized sun glasses. Perfect for an overcast morning. Eventually, I did get one to actually speak. I asked him if he knew anything about visa’s at the border. He replied, “I’m not going to comment on that”, and retreated to his cold anti social way of being. You just never know who you’re going to meet on a bus in Laos when you’re headed to China. For all I know they may be famous in the realm of somewhere. I wish I had taken their photo to put it on the internet. They were quite the couple.

The bus arrived at the border and we proceeded to check out of Laos. Before doing so we talked with Laos immigration and they confirmed that we could get visas at the border. Our Laos visas were voided and we crossed into China.

The Chinese border is blocked by a very large and modern immigration building. Very civilized. We proceeded to an upstairs counter where you can indeed get a visa on arrival. There was one female official working and she instructed Deb and me to sit. When she was ready for us I walked up and she started thumbing through my passport like she was looking for my visa. I told her I did not have a visa and needed one but she said, “No”. At this time our bus driver came up looking for us which was a good thing because he acted as an interpreter. The lady at the counter appeared quite happy as she was doing her best to explain why I could not have a Visa. It all boiled down to the fact that I’m American and Americans have to go through a consulate. She told me so with a big friendly smile. Deb stepped in an asked if she could have a visa. The lady said, “Yes”, because she is from the UK. UK ok. USA, no way. The bus driver then intervened and from what I could tell was doing his best to change the situation in my favor. In my disappointed state I made a civil comment, “You mean, with all of the trade America does with China I still can’t get a visa into the country?”. I was puzzled why UK citizens can get a visa at the border but Americans cannot. I think the comment stopped her for a moment but the answer was still, “No”. There was apparently nothing that could be done about it.

Our bus driver was really nice and could see Deb and I were both quite disappointed. He gave us half our money back without even asking and went on to pick up the others as they cleared immigration. As I sat outside Immigration Deb debated going to China on her own. I told her she was free to do as she pleased but was doubly disappointed because we have so much fun traveling together. I sat on a bench as she walked around for 10 or 15 minutes. It was her decision and I wasn’t going to interfere with it. I was happy when she came back and said, “Well, I guess we need to find a bus back into Laos”.

While we walked back to Laos immigration Deb commented how China probably would have sucked anyway. She also pointed out how you hardly ever hear anyone say China is a great place to travel. She then kind of laughed about how she could get in but I couldn’t. “There you go. You Americans think you can go anywhere you want, when you want”. Yes, Debs comment is very true. This all goes without saying that the USA is one of the hardest countries for foreigners when it comes to Visa’s. I commented to Debs, “Turn about is fair play”.

The real kick in the pants to this whole thing is that our perfectly good Laos visa’s had been voided and they only issue single entry visas. We both had to fill out the paper work again and fork out another $37 USD each to get back into the country. All this after they themselves said we could get visas at the border. Once we cleared immigration we had no problem finding transportation back to the town of Luang Nam Tha. On the ride we were accompanied by a Finnish man who had just traveled through China. We asked him how it was and he said the overall experience was just ok. Aside of a few highlights it was just ok. That made Debs and I feel like we’re not really missing much. Especially since we both really like Laos.

For whatever reason our detour into China just wasn’t meant to be. Tomorrow we will travel to Luang Prabang. So far Laos has been great.

Trekking In Northern Laos

When we arrived at the traditional Laos structure built upon stilts in the Nam Ha forest we were greeted by smiling man smoking a cigarette through a bamboo water pipe (bong). He and a younger boy had arrived before our group to help and prepare the place for the night. When the smiling man pulled out a plastic bottle of Lao Lao (local whiskey) I had my doubts. Kevin, a 26 year world traveler from Quebec, happily obliged as he took a sip and engaged in a broken conversation of Laos and English with a thick heavy French Canadian accent. Kevin is what I call an All In traveler. He’s the type that really goes for it and embraces the culture, food, and whatever with little reservation. I really admire his spirit as he was proving to be great company on a 3 day trek through the tropical forest of Nam Ha National Park.

I’ve never been much attracted to organized guided group hikes in the wilderness but when it comes to S.E. Asia it’s pretty much the only way to do it. Good maps, much less any map, are very hard to come by and often times don’t even exist. Also, there tend to be paths going all over the place from generations of people hunting, working the fields, or, from simply going village to village. The language barrier is a definite issue and forget seeing any kid of signage pointing you the right direction.

Doing a trek through the tropical forests of Northern Laos was high on Deb’s and my list. A company by the name of Green Discovery Laos was recommended to us. We visited their office shortly after arriving In Luang Nam Tha and had checked their website before arriving in Laos. The local staff working in the office spoke very good English and could answer our questions clearly. They also disclosed where all of the money made from the treks goes. I was impressed to see how responsibly the money is distributed and how the local people are not exploited. The guides are compensated fairly and every village visited etc. receives some kind of benefit. A 28% profit is made on each trek which is more than fair. The company is also very ecologically minded with a keen sense on minimizing impact on environment and culture.

We signed up for a 3 day 2 night hike through Nam Ha National Park. When we arrived to start our walk we were joined by three others. A French Canadian by the name of Kevin from Quebec City and two women from Holland. All in their 20’s. Aside of the five of us we were led by two local guides by names of Koum Seng and Soo Ler. Koum goes by EF. EF speaks very good English and the other seemed to understand a little more than he could speak.

Our trip started with a 30 minute drive out of town to a local village. We first spent some time in the village as EF showed us around. The villagers seemed fine with us being there and taking photos which is another nice reason to be with a guide. Often times I’ve found that when your with a local guide people are much more open to you being around especially when they see one of their own profiting from it. Also, they understand your just a foreign visitor checking things out which helps to avoid any uncomfortable misunderstandings that may be encountered on your own. As always the language barrier is an issue but with a guide it’s not a problem.

A few steps out of the village and we entered the forest. It wasn’t long before we crossed into the actual national park boundary. As expected there were no signs and no way of really knowing where to go aside of various paths leading one way or another. We first passed through a hillside where workers were harvesting sweet rice. Up and over we went and dropped into what you would expect, lush green tropical forests. Sections of the walk were very damp and the temperature alternated between cool or warm. With the beginning of the dry season we were pleased to see blue skies as the morning fog cleared.

We stopped for lunch in a small clearing with a picnic table covered by a thatch roof. A couple of local boys from a nearby village had hiked ahead with food and to prepare the area for lunch. Large Banana leaves were laid across the table and various foods were dumped upon the leaf. We were each given a block of sticky rice wrapped in a banana leaf and a pair of some kind of plant stem to use as chops sticks.

“So, what’s this I’m eating?”. “Funn”. “What?”. “That”, as he pointed, “Fern”. EF went over and clarified what we were eating by waving a large fern branch at me. It tasted pretty good. The rest of the food was nothing too exotic. Mixed vegetables with tofu, grilled carp, and pork with cabbage. It was all pretty good. After lunch EF entertained us with brain teaser puzzles he created by chopping up plant stems. We eventually continued onward.

Some places have a feeling, a vibe and an energy. Something that can’t be put into words. Laos has it. As we hiked along, not to sound to esoteric, I felt like I was absorbing energy from the forest. It felt clean, pure, and unspoiled. We walked all day and I was pleased to find that we all had about the same hiking pace which for a party of 7 is pretty darned good. No one was dragging and we were all very into it. A nice group dynamic was taking hold. One of the Dutch women was kind of like a walking encyclopedia of info pertaining to nature and birds which added a nice little bonus to the experience.

For both nights we stayed in traditional Laos structures built upon stilts in remote areas. This was a forest trek so the only villages we passed through were at the beginning and end. When we arrived at the first camp the two boys who met us for lunch had hiked ahead and already gotten the place in order. Padded cloth mats were laid down for us to sleep upon and mosquito netting was hung to keep out the bugs. A separate structure was set up as a kitchen and everything was cooked over an open fire.

Deb and I dumped our stuff and headed off on our own to a nearby area that the guide told us about. We hiked down a steep hill upon an overgrown trail to a cliff grotto next to pools formed by a small creek. It was an amazing little place completely encapsulated by tropical vegetation. We found a spot by a pool and sat for awhile. When Deb and I hike together its not uncommon for us to stop at a place that feels special and just sit for awhile. It’s nice to absorb an environment by simply observing the surroundings, listening to sounds, and noticing smells.

When we returned to camp I was impressed by how the two guides with the help of the two other boys were preparing dinner. Everything was being prepared fresh. Water buffalo meat was being chopped and minced as well as several different types of veggies. Everything was prepared from scratch and cooked on an open fire. These guys really knew what they were doing and dinner turned out great. I abstained from the meat but I’m sure it was fine. I feasted on sticky rice with tomato sauce and sauteed onions. All washed down with rain forest Cardamon tea. We fell asleep to a forest full of tropical sounds. Much better than any rain forest atmosphere cd on the market.

The second day of walking was similar to the first but the two other village boys returned home and left us with a packed lunch of green beans, chili sauce, grilled meat, and sticky rice. During late morning we encountered 3 hunters. One was armed with a homemade long barrel rifle and the other had some kind of older military automatic weapon. We met them briefly in passing but I really would have liked to have had a picture with them. They were the only people we met on the trek aside of some rice harvesters at the very beginning. We stopped during the early afternoon to have lunch upon palm throngs. Into the afternoon we walked until we reached camp number 2 and the smiling man with the water pipe.

The second place we stayed at was larger than the first and I was surprised to see our guides cooking upon a fire inside a the structure built on stilts of tinder dry wood along with palm thatch for siding and roof. Kevin and I joked that we would just punch our way of the siding if it the building caught fire.

Unfortunately, shortly after arriving I came down with yet another migraine! My second within just a few days. I quickly retreated to a dark corner inside and drank a lot of water. I was able to shake it relatively quickly. With all I’ve been doing there are lots of things that could be triggering my migraines but there’s one trigger that really stands out. I’ve been getting plenty of MSG in my meals and the guides used a lot of it in their cooking. MSG is a definite cause of migraine and one I really haven’t paid much attention to. Foolishly so. I asked the trip leader if he could abstain from using MSG on my food. He took the request like it was one he’s had before and said, “No Problem”. For the rest of the trip he was really good about cooking food specifically for me without MSG and I greatly appreciated it.

Late in the evening EF went to a nearby stream to get some water and spotted a bright green snake in a tree. When he got back to camp he asked us all if we wanted to see it and of course we did. One of the Dutch women had an amazing compact mini spotlight flashlight to illuminate it as it slept in a tree. I asked if it was poisonous and EF said if you get bit you have two hours to get help. We made sure to keep our distance. It would take far longer than two hours for us to get to any kind of questionable help!

When we returned to camp I was kind of out of it but was still happy to see Kevin having fun drinking Lao Lao with his new friend and the others enjoying a star filled night next to a makeshift fire. I turned in early and the rest went to bed about an hour after I did. As soon as the last candle was blown out all kinds critters made themselves known by various sounds. Rats, mice, squirrels and whatever kept up a racket all about the building. I fell in and out of sleep all night long. Too tired to dig out my ear plugs.

On the third day we hiked out of the forest and into open deforested areas replanted with rubber trees. We stopped off at a local residence with pigs and chickens situated next to rice paddies. While there we said hello to the family of the residence and had lunch upon banana leaves on a table in front of their stilted house. Chickens and small pigs roamed about our feet as we ate. From there we continued to a village where we were inundated with kids trying to sell us handmade jewelry items. None of us bought anything but instead made a donation to the village school. The Dutch women donated a bag of pens which seemed to be more appreciated than money. The final village was where the smiling man who smokes cigarettes through a water pipe lives. We took a short break at his place before hopping a truck back to Luang Nam Tha.

Deb and I were very satisfied with the 3 day forest trek. Everything was very well run. The guides were friendly, conscientious, knowledgeable and good company. Not to mention, wizards when it came to cooking. Green Discovery is not he cheapest guide service, especially by Laos standards, but what we got was really good. For three days with food and everything it cost around $105 USD per person for a group of five. Prices vary on group size. They run eco oriented adventure travel tours all over Laos so I wouldn’t hesitate going on another one of their trips. The experience was authentic and not touristic. If you want to go trekking in S.E. Asia avoid the the touristic walks of Thailand and head for Laos.

In Laos Deb and I have found what we are looking for but China is so close. Too close. I sense a detour. We can get a visa at the border. It’s just too tempting…..