For my second day on Naxos I decided to pick up where I left off the previous and took a bus back up to Apiranthos. I got a little later start than the day before and had to endure heaps of annoying chatter from a pack of Australian women in a totally packed bus. After the hour long ride that made several stops along the way I was ready to get walking.
The route leaving Apiranthos was well signed and easy to find. I climbed up above the village to a saddle on a ridge. From there I followed a dirt road for a short distance and made my way up to Chapel Fanariotisa which sits atop Naxos’s third highest mountain. I then retraced my steps to the saddle to find an old donkey trail leading into the next valley on my way to Moni.
Well, the route finding turned out to be a lot less defined than the day before. It was what I’d expect. The rugged descent track was actually quite impressive and not too difficult to follow. I have no idea how old the path is but a lot of work went into setting stone and cutting trail at one time. I imagine it was probably a heavily traveled route hundreds of years ago. Route finding became more challenging when I neared the valley with trees and numerous goat paths. For a short section it was very well marked but that didn’t last long. In reality you are never really that lost in mountains and valleys but if you are not careful it’s easy to waste a lot of time roaming around getting frustrated trying to determine the best way to get to where you want to go.
I found my skills being tested to some degree but in a fun sort of way. As I neared the village of Moni the already very poorly marked trail just kind of faded into a braided mess of goat trails. It was more or less impossible to follow the mapped route so I simply created my own route and by chance met up with the traul again as I neared Moni.
Moni is a very quiet village like a lot of villages on Naxos. White buildings of stone and mortar tightly packed together with narrow flagstone type walkways form a maze between homes. As I tried to find my way through the village I negotiated a donkey blocking the path. Apparently there’s a nice Taverna with a view. I couldn’t find the Taverna but I did find my way out of the village and stumbled upon the Church known as Panagia Drosiani with original faded Byzantine frescos dating back to the 7th Century.
From the church I followed a short stretch of road before finding trail routes that led me to the village of Kalaxilos and Chalki. I ended the walk in Chalki at a bus stop. Chalki is an interesting village in of itself so as the time neared for the bus to arrive people started showing up. A woman sat next to me sharing bench I was sitting on.
More people started gathering and the bus was running a little late so I started talking to her. As it turns out she is a professional photographer from California on a two week trip alone in the Greek Isles taking photos as well as making it a vacation. We talked on the bus ride and got something eat once back in Chora (Naxos Town). I don’t meet many single women traveling who are close to my age. It was easy to relate to one another with travel stories etc. We decided to meet up again the next day and figured we would go to the beach.
So, that’s what we did. Plakka beach is said to be one of the best beaches in the Mediterranean. Now that’s a big claim to make and I’m not sure I agree but it is a good beach. It stretches for well over a mile like a quarter moon. Small family run restaurants line a sandy road with umbrellas and chairs set on the shore below.
A chair under an umbrella for the day costs $5 Euros. A 20 ounce bottle of beer costs $3.50 Euros. Attendants/waiters are relaxed, attentive, and friendly. The water is crystal clear and cool. The sun is bright and sunny. I had a sandwich for $4.50 Euros, made fresh. Greece is proving to be very affordable if not cheap at times.
After spending all afternoon on the beach we walked across the road to a family restaurant with open air seating and a grand view beyond the water of the Island of Paros. Dinner consisted of local lamb with local potatoes and local homemade wine. Upon paying the bill we were each given a nice glass of some type whisky liquor made from grapes. I’m sure it was home made as well. A walk on the beach was in order afterwards before catching the bus back to Chora. At that point we parted ways as her trip is coming to and she had to catch a ferry the following day. I think we both enjoyed the company as is often the case when you are a solo traveler who meets another solo traveler at the right juncture with something in common.
This morning I awoke feeling slightly off with a mild hangover but knew I could shake it quick with a walk. Once again I took a bus up to the mountains and got off in the village of Koronida. The road getting there is kind of impressive. It’s more or less a classic winding mountain road with a steep drop off to one side and too narrow for more than one vehicle in various sections.
Koronida sits about 1500 feet above the fishing village of Apollonas. From the village there’s a nice easy gradual downhill hike along the top of an open ridge which provides a great view of mountains and sea. Apollanas is a lovely old village surrounded by mountains with a nice bay that provides a beach for swimming at a small waterfront. I sat down for lunch at nice spot for average quality food and at a slightly inflated price. Apollanas is a very quiet place that must see most all of it’s visitors during the day. I didn’t notice much for accommodation.
It took an hour and forty five minutes to get back to Chora via bus. I shook off the bus ride with a swim and realized at that moment I’m kind of tired. Tomorrow I’ll take it easy as I board a ferry at noon for the island of Amorgos.
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