I left Clovelly Sunday morning feeling well rested, well fed and ready to go. The skies cleared early and the weather turned perfect as I followed a forested ridgeline to open hills lining the shore. The hills gave way to beach as I passed through the touristy resort town of Westward Ho! From Westward I passed through dunes before reaching the colorfully painted row houses of Appledore. In Appledore I picked up a few supplies and headed on another mile to a farm campsite.
Knapp farm turned out to be an outdoor education center of sorts. I knew where the farm was but had a little bit of trouble accessing the property while navigating farmers field, sheep, and fence. One of the instructors who appeared to be in his mid 20’s saw me from afar and I got his attention by waving. I asked about camping and he said there was a place I could camp. He then pointed to where I could get over the fence. From there I followed him over a gate and he walked me through the property.
The property consists of a very large old house set up like a hostel to house groups. There was also a ropes course some other buildings and mobile homes for staff. As he walked me to where I could camp I asked what the charge would be. He wasn’t sure and informed me that the boss man wouldn’t be back until late. I told him I’d be leaving around 8. He laughed and said I’d be gone by time anyone came around but to check with the office before I left.
The area where I camped was really quite beautiful underneath some very large old trees next to a sloping meadow. The field just above me was littered with permanently set caravans of varying age and condition. Only a few of the caravans appeared to be currently used. The campground facilities were basic and not well maintained. It kind of seemed like a partially functioning unadvertised sort of a campground. Since there were no groups on property and things were very quite I found facilities easily available at the house for a shower, toilet, and water.
As I’ve been walking the Coast Path I’ve often thought what a wonderful tick habitat I’m passing through. Especially in early summer. Ticks don’t seem to be particularly common in England but as I showered I found two of them. I was happy to catch them before they dug in as they were the small type that can carry lymes disease.
Although my campsite was quite nice at the farm I slept horribly due to super noisy birds in the wonderful large old trees. I’m not sure what they were. I left the farm a little after 8 am and passed by the office to see no one there. I really wouldn’t have minded paying but I don’t really think it made much difference. I took it as a gift and made my way back over the gate, over the fence, past the sheep, and back to the Coast Path.
At Bideford the Coast Path picks up on a paved rail trail that I followed all day under what would turn out to be perfect weather. Lots of sun, not too hot, and barely any wind. I also met two older ladies that have been doing sections of the Coast Path for ten years and they were just starting their final section to the end at Minehead. They are packing light and staying at B&B’s in the villages along the way. They plan to finish on Saturday as I intend to so I will likely be seeing them off and on all week.
I completed today’s walk about a mile short of Braunton in a place called Chivenor. Logistically it works out perfectly for me and after 16 or so miles I was ready to stop as my left Achilles is giving me trouble. With today's walk passing through populated areas my choices for camping are a little limited.
Chivenor Caravan Park is not a particularly pretty place but it’s ok. It’s a bit run down. The facilities are adequate but not great. It’s more like a residential trailer/caravan park that poses as an overpriced holiday campground. I imagine during busy times they get business but during times like these it’s the odd bird like myself. The upside is that the woman manager, a little rough around the edges, couldn’t be nicer and more accommodating. Since the campground is located right next to a busy A road I asked if she might be able to make an exception and allow me to pitch one night in a more desirable unofficial spot. It would be much quieter. No problem.
As it turns out the campground really isn’t so bad. I got dinner from the gas station across the street and the showers have hot water. Also, the drinking water tastes good. With no screaming birds I'll likely sleep great.
No comments:
Post a Comment