It was a five hour ferry ride to Naxos from Athens. There were not many people on the ferry and when I stepped off I somewhat expected to be hounded by touts from various accommodations. Well, there were plenty of people holding up signs but all were confined to a couple of specific areas. I suppose there use to be problems with aggressive hawkers but not anymore. A couple tried to get my attention but I failed to make eye contact and walked on past. I then headed straight up to the old town that sits above the harbor. I figured I'd first check out a place the guidebook suggested.
As I walked up a narrow way between century old buildings turned tourist shops I noticed a hotel sign. The manager, a nice middle aged Pilipino woman, saw me and asked if I needed a hotel. Well, I figured it wouldn’t hurt to take a look. She led me up steep narrow spiraling steps to a Pension with six rooms that had just been refurbished for the season. Old and simple but clean with marble floors and character gave me a good feeling about the place. I asked how much and she responded by asking me how much I wanted to pay. For a moment I had an India flashback. Usually the question is a sign of some degree of desperation. I had expected a decent room with private bathroom would run $40 euros up. Again, she asked what I wanted to pay but I wanted her to come up with a figure first. I then told her I liked the room but would like to check a couple of other places first. She then said $25 euros and commented I wouldn’t find anything cheaper. I figured I wouldn’t and took the room.
About fifteen minutes after arrival my accommodation was set.
Naxos is absolutely beautiful. The ferry docks at a nice harbor with the old town Kastro sitting atop the village of Chora spilling into the sea. The waterfront is café and restaurant lined with open air seating. Shade is provided by awnings, tents, plants, etc. It’s definitely touristy but done well. It's easy to escape the tourists just a few steps inland. My hotel sits within but aback of all the bustling tourism. Logistically it’s a good base for me.
After getting situated I went to a restaurant and watched people walk by, with sailboats gently bobbing in the background, while deciding what to do the next day. I then went for a swim in a nice little protected harbor about a five minute walk from where I’m staying. I searched the sky for a cloud but couldn’t find one.
With a mountain named Zues rising above all other mountains on Naxos and the highest peak in the Cyclade islands of Greece I absolutely wanted to hike it. That was my first objective. I know most everyone comes to the Greek Islands for the beaches, water, night life, and idyllic villages but there is some fantastic hiking that you don’t hear much about.
Today’s hike started with a with a three minute walk to a bakery and bus. I asked the bus driver to drop me at a road leading to a chapel above the village of Filoti. I was happy to find a decent hiking map the day before. I wasn’t sure how well the paths and routes would be marked. A short road walk led me to a chapel. I was happy to see an established trailhead and it appeared as though the routes would be marked by a route number plate and or red paint circle here and there on a rock.
With no problem I found my way to a broad ridge on good trail to rocky ridge to the fine summit of Zeus for a nice view. From the top I descended a different route down into a steep rugged valley with Zeus’s cave. Past a lovely collection of springs contained by stone built pools under large shade trees I found a quiet road which I followed to Filoti. From Filoti I found a well-marked trail back up to the Chapel where I had started the hike up Mt Zeus. Passing the Chapel I descended a different direction, with the sound of goat bells across the valley. I reached the very quiet village of Dankos and began climbing again. Above Dankos I arrived at the 6th century Monastery known as Fotodotis. I stopped to talk with an older French couple who was also walking and went in to the old Byzantine styled place of worship that was being watched by a Greek Orthodox monk. From there I hiked past olive trees and goats grazing with the sea and small islands to my right. Further along I reached the village of Apiranthos, known for it’s old villas. My walk ended there as I sat outside a small café under shade. I caught a bus back to Hora at 4:30 and went for a swim.
I saw a few clouds early but they all went away. It was an absolutely beautiful day. I am really enjoying Greece and am very glad I chose to travel this direction. Tomorrow I’ll walk and swim again. With a good map there’s not much problem getting around by foot and bus. The hiking and walking routes are adequately marked as long as one pays attention.
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