I may have made a mistake by purchasing a return ticket. That’s how much I am liking the Greek Islands. I’ve strayed away from the most popular areas and landed via ferry in Katapola on the Island of Amorgos. Within fifteen minutes I once again found a nice room in a pension for $25 Euro a night. Katapola also has a campground that’s nearly empty for $7 Euro a night but I’m going on easy on myself.
If I wanted a little slice of France in Greece I’ve found it on Amorgos. A well know art film, “The Big Blue”, was filmed in Amorgos in 1988 by a French director. The shot locations are stunning and have been calling tourists from France ever since. Amorgos is an independent traveler destination so there are no cruise ships, tour groups, etc. Aside of the French the Swedes have also discovered Amorgos. English is the universal language between Greek, French, and Swedish. I have yet to meet another American.
Amorgos is a very arid Island with Mountains rising abruptly from the sea. It measures approximately 30 km in length with its widest section only a few kilometers. Over the last two days I’ve hiked upon old donkey trails with one route taking me along a mountain ridgeline with the ocean to the right, left, then right again as I traversed high through mountain saddles. A few clouds sped over head as the Islands have been unseasonably windy. One local informed me that the weather has been autumn like. However, there is no chance of rain.
On my walk yesterday, while crossing the mountains from Chora to Egiali, I visited the Monastery, Chosoviotissa, built into a cliff wall above steep rocky mountain slope that disappears into a dark blue void below. Visitors are welcome with proper attire so I slipped long pants over my shorts. You have to hunch over to enter a small door to climb steep narrow steps that lead to a small room of worship. A balcony provides a view outside. Living quarters are set off in the opposite end of the building.
After visiting the chapel a heavy set monk in orthodox garb directs you to a hospitality room where you are served a traditional powder sugar coated gelatinous sweet with Raki, a local grape whiskey liquor flavored with honey and spices. A glass of water is also provided. You are then welcome to purchase a souvenir or make a donation.
From the monastery I continued on towards Egiali passing through a village where I saw a man hauling water and a small goat on a donkey. I took his photo and he waved erratically at me. I wasn’t sure if it was a hello or sign language for not liking his picture taken. I also passed an old man walking as he herded a few cows and bull. The high route appropriately known as, “ The Old Way”, provided outstanding views. Upon arriving in Eigali I had lunch on a terrace overlooking the sea then went for a swim before catching a bus back to Katapola.
The warm sunny island life really suits me. The nice thing about the Greek Islands is that it’s not too humid nor too hot. There are no tropical diseases or any major health concerns. The people are nice and it’s easy to get around with just English. There are many Islands to choose from varying from a full on tourist destination to barely discovered. In all there are approximately 1400 islands with about 225 inhabited. Depending on what you consider an island the number could be in the thousands.
Right now the price tag is very reasonable for traveling Greece. At times it can be downright cheap unless you’re in the most popular tourists regions during the high season which starts in mid- July. August I am told is ridiculously busy but as on Greek told me, “Without August we couldn’t make it”. The Island Greeks fully embrace visitors and tourism. The most popular destinations seem to be Santorini and Mykonos, both of which can be expensive.
I could easily spend the entire summer in the Greek Isles. Remarkably my finances are holding out well. It seems kind of a shame to leave Greece and head home to an awfully hot humid Houston summer but on a deeper level I feel like I should probably stick with my original plan. One thing is for sure, all things considered, I’m certainly doing something right and feel incredibly lucky. It’s all in the choices we make.
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