Miyajima via Hiroshima

I arrived in Hiroshima Monday evening after almost exactly 12 hours of hopping local trains. Everything went well despite a couple of unexpected transfers. Each station name is marked in Japanese and English but other than that all of the announcements and info are in Japanese. Some of the faster trains have announcements in English but so few tourists travel on ordinary trains that it’s not worth the hassle for the train companies to offer both languages on all trains. If something goes off schedule or there are any changes you simply need to follow the lead of the other passengers. One thing that confused me at first is that on one stretch of rail there may be 8 cars but the total number of cars might be reduced for a section with fewer people, especially outside of rush hour. So, if you’re sitting in the rear car and everyone gets out at a stop when you don’t expect it follow the crowd. As long as you’re paying attention the trains are really quite easy. Everything usually runs on time and is well managed.

In Hiroshima I checked into another business hotel that I booked online. Booking ahead seems to be the way to go in Japan. Since everything is paid in advance all I do is walk in, show my passport, and print my name and address on a registration card then I’m good to go after a couple of bows and a an “Arigato”. The hotel I'm currently staying at is in a great location. It’s only 15 minutes’ walk from the train station and right on the edge of the entertainment district.

The first thing I noticed on arrival in Hiroshima is a buzz and/or energy I haven’t noticed from in other cities, including Tokyo. Every city has its vibe. While Tokyo was what I expected and Kanazawa was relatively uninteresting, Hiroshima is distinctly different. I suspect it’s rooted in the obvious fact that city was totally flattened and demolished by an Atomic Bomb in 1945. Where I currently sit was completely decimated but now you would have no idea.

Hiroshima rebuilt is a completely vibrant city. Pardon my cliché but, “Risen from the Ashes”, literally. The buildings are modern but a lot of the architecture is 1950’s so it’s not like it looks totally brand new. There are several waterways that dissect the city with walkways and parks which create a nice aesthetic. The most prominent is Peace Memorial Park which is dedicated to what happened when the A bomb was dropped.

Funny enough it’s Wednesday and I have yet to really explored Hiroshima. When I awoke Tuesday I chose to visit Miyajima Island. It’s a Unesco World Heritage Site known for its temples and temple gate. It also has a nice network of hiking trails up to a couple of peaks and view point. Since I had one day left on my train pass that is also good for JR ferries I took advantage of it and made the trip to the Island in about an hour.

It proved to be a perfect day for Miyajima with nice sunny weather which I haven’t seen too much of in Japan. The temples were all very impressive and the hiking was good. I caught some nice views off two summits and a side point that can be reached by tram that had a little café for lunch. I wound up spending all day on the Island. Deer roam around like dogs and cats amidst tourist in the main village. Up on the trails I didn’t see many except for those accessing some of the mountain temples via the tram. I noticed a warning about poisonous snakes and saw 2 but they were extremely docile. By time I got back to Hiroshima I was pretty tired.

Well, the day is young so I’m going to wander down to the Peace Memorial Park and see what it’s all about. The photos in this post were all taken on Miyajima.

Kanazawa & Riding The Local Trains

From Hakuba I caught a morning train and rode the rails until I arrived in Kanazawa around 1 pm. I checked into another business hotel that I once again booked via hotels.com. Japanese Business hotels booked online can be quite a bargain. Hostel dorms in Japan run $25 to $35, capsule hotels run about the same price. For another $10 to $15 a night you can have a luxurious room en-suite with everything you need. TV, internet connection, soap, toothbrush, razor, refrigerator and best of all, insurance of a good night’s sleep. For the Western traveler the rooms may be a little on the small side but they are perfectly adequate. The downside is that they are a little insulating from experiencing real Japanese culture but you can’t beat the value. In Kanazawa I am paying $48 a night for a room I’d rate as Excellent.

I’m really enjoying the trains in Japan. They are very well run and more or less easy to figure out once you get going. The slow trains allow a great opportunity to sight see out the window and observe day to day regular life. The ride from Matsumto through the mountains past Hakuba was especially scenic. On one stretch it was a single car. Kind of like a bus on rails.

Along the way I was befriended by a young Japanese University student who was curious as to where I was from and seemed to have a fascination with America. He was conversant enough in English to where we could enjoy some conversation. He was returning home from a vacationing in Eastern Japan and had a couple of bags full of gifts for family and friends. He asked if we could be Facebook friends and hoped to see me in America someday.

The Japanese all seem to be exceptionally nice and friendly. They are also very helpful regardless of any language barriers. The country in general appears to be very safe and from what I can tell people are very honest. Whenever money is exchanged it’s done carefully and mindfully to make sure there are no mistakes or misunderstandings. There appears to be an honor code that’s set fairly high and people adhere to naturally. I think it’s one of the few countries you really don’t have to worry about getting your stuff stolen. Not to say it couldn’t happen I just think the likelihood is very low. 

Something that completely amazes me is that it’s nearly impossible to find a public trash can everywhere I go but I don’t see garbage anywhere. It’s not too difficult to find recycling bins for cans and plastic bottles and all you see in the recycling bins in plastic and cans. No garbage.

Kanazawa is turning out to be a bit of a rest stop of sorts. It's known for it's garden and castle park as well as some interesting museums but the weather continues to be pretty lousy. As it turns out September really is Typhoon season which more or less means it’s a month that usually gets lots of wind and rain. The upside is that the temperature is very comfortable but the clouds and wet do kind of put a damper on the experience.

Yesterday I bought a cheap umbrella a roamed around. Today I’ll do more of the same. Tomorrow will be a big travel day with an early start hopping local trains for 12 hours to get to Hiroshima. Wish me luck on the connections.

Hotel - Japanese Style

The one thing that was missing from the Japanese Alps were Germans. Aside of one American who was the teacher living in Tokyo and a couple from Hong Kong it appeared as though the mountains were almost exclusive to the Japanese. Germans like to hike and they always know where to go. It wasn’t until I was about to board the bus in Kamikochi to return to Matsumoto that I noticed two tall fit hikers looking very European.

I knew right away they were German and asked where all the Germans were. They laughed and said they were wondering the same. They told me at one hut the hosts said they usual only see one group of Germans a year which the even they thought was kind of strange. Like me the Germans were on a 3 week trip around Japan and were mixing it up with hiking. We talked on the bus and they gave me some good ideas on places to see and things to do. They went all out by purchasing a full 3 week JR rail pass which allows travel on high speed trains and were really packing it in.

Back in Matsumoto they headed towards Fuji. I hopped a local train the other direction to Hakuba. Hakuba had my interest as it’s a ski town and was a host venue for the 1998 winter Olympics.

I had one transfer with an hour layover and wandered over to a restaurant with a statue of a pig. When I entered I was enthusiastically greeted as is the case whenever you walk into most any shop, restaurant, convenient store, hotel etc. in Japan. The greeting is usually followed by some degree of bow and smiles. Since I can’t understand everything that’s being said I keep it simple with two words, “Konnichiwa”, (Hello) and “Arigato” (Thank You). These two words mixed with bows and smiles along with common sense and intuition seem to be working well for me. Japan is a fairly formal culture with lots of customs and attention to manners, however, as a tourist I am given a lot of leeway. As with any culture I believe if you are at least trying it goes a long way.

The first thing I did when entering the restaurant was remove my shoes. If you see a shoe rack by the door, that’s your cue. I then sat at the counter and browsed the menu. In most of Asia menus have photos so even if you can’t read the text you can point to what you want. In Japan I’ve found that some restaurants will have an abbreviated menu in creatively translated English. Usually ordinary numbers are shown for the price so that’s not an issue. Since there was a pig in front of the restaurant I assumed I’d be having something with pork. I pointed to a dish marked, “Most Popular”.

Shortly thereafter I was served up a large bowl of noodles in soup broth with some vegetables and pork slices. The pork was a little fatty but very good. A couple of business men were having the same thing and were slurping away which is perfectly acceptable it seems. Keep your conversation low but slurp all you want.

I finished my lunch, paid, was enthusiastically thanked and made my way back to the train station for a slow ride into Hakuba.

The cloud level was low so I couldn’t see the mountains but I could see the bottom of the ski runs and the Olympic ski jumps. I was feeling quite tired when I got off in Hakuba so I went into a tourist information office where the attendant spoke basic English. I requested a reasonably good cheap place to stay for the night. He made a couple of calls and located a room for 4,000 yen ($40). I paid right there and he gave me a voucher and map with the name of the place written in Japanese.

Less than 10 minutes’ walk and I arrived at a building I probably would have just walked by without knowing. It turned out to be a Ryokan. Yes, a hotel but in real Japanese style. I removed my shoes at the door. The woman running the place spoke hardly any English as she showed me around. There was a hot springs fed bath, laundry facilities, a drying room, and my room with reed Tatami Mat Floor and futon. There was also a low table with mats to sit on and supplies for tea.

A Ryokan is usually relatively small with about 6 rooms or so. Facilities are shared and the family owning or running place usually lives on site. The result is a very homey feeling. For a little extra they will usually provide meals. If your seeking a true Japanese experience staying in a Ryokan is the way to go.

Although it wasn’t really what I had in mind for the night it was perfect. My gear was wet and disorganized from the hike so I spread in all out and took the wet stuff to the drying room. I then took a hot springs bath and threw in a load of laundry. The place was really quiet so I more or less had everything to myself. It was perfect for getting sorted. Afterwards I took a walk up the road to see what a Japanese ski village looks like.

The clouds still hung very low so I really couldn’t see the mountains as I walked up to the Happo base area. Everything was very quiet. Very quiet. I roamed around a bit and most everything was closed. Buildings looked worn and un-interesting. Of course, like most any ski town in the northern hemiphere, it’s now off season but Hakuba was totally dead from what I could tell. Maybe there were more interesting parts of the valley to check out. Things did appear spread out. Perhaps having spent several years living in the World Class ski resort of Aspen has my standards set too high but Hakuba was not impressing me. I didn’t see any reason to stay longer than one night. Especially with the poor weather. I returned to the Ryokan and slept well.

Mt. Yariga-take - Japan Alps

Regardless sometimes you just have to go. I knew the weather wasn’t going to be favorable but I needed to experience the Japanese Alps and had the desire to ascend one of Japan’s most handsome peaks, Mt. Yariga-take.

The Japanese Alps have a very nice network of trails traversing ridges, following valleys, and ascending summits. There are also many well equipped and impressively managed huts. If a hiker takes advantage of the huts one can travel very light with a small daypack, however, it will set you back $80 to $100 a day for a dorm space with two meals. Although the huts are very popular many people choose to carry camping gear in the same fashion as we do in America. There are free designated camping spots along the trails but you can also camp at the huts for around $5.

From the moment I left Matsumoto my timing seemed to be on. I randomly arrived at the bus station 20 minutes before a direct bus to Kamikochi. From there is was about an hour and a half ride to Kmaikochi which is a popular trailhead located within a scenic mountain river valley and borders on Chubusangaku National Park.

When I got off the bus it was pouring rain but there was a very nice, large, and aesthetically well-designed visitors center with a few shops and open air bus terminal. I checked the weather forecast and asked an English speaking attendant a few questions. The outlook was for wind and rain. I hung around for an hour while it poured.

When it finally stopped I figured I’d better get going. My plan was to head 4 miles up the valley to the site of two huts. The woman at the visitor’s center said they were more like lodges than huts and I could camp there. I had also read that it was an exceptionally nice spot. Since I have my tent with me I figured I’d camp and save a little money. From there I could make it a base camp and decide on the weather what to do next. I originally wanted to do a nice loop that would require a long exposed ridge traverse but U didn't fancy doing in the rain. Aside of being a little dangerous it wouldn’t be fun. Whatever I decided it would likely be an out and back hike.

The hike in was dry and the clouds seemed to be lifting a bit The walking was easy. Again, I seemed to time it right. The two huts of Tokosawa-en were indeed more like mountain lodges. Although the only way in was by a 4 mile walk/hike there appeared to be a secret back road that allowed for supplies to be brought in easily. Situated between the two structures was a nice open meadow perfect for camping. A few tents were set about. I inquired and paid $10 for two nights, set up camp, and had a beer at the English themed pub attached to one of the lodges.

The evening was also dry and the clouds actually seemed to be breaking apart a little when I crawled into my tent. By mid night I could see stars. When the sun started to come up around 5 am it was perfectly clear. I saw it as a window of opportunity but was a little puzzled why the weather was so good when the reports were so bad. With Mt. Yariga-take on the mind I knew I was within striking distance. I suddenly felt very motivated and knew I could do from where I was as long as the weather held. If worse came to worse I’d be passing huts and could always dive into one for the night if need be.

I hastily threw together a light pack and by 5:30 began hiking vigorously. From camp it was roughly 8 miles to the top with over 4,000 elevation gain. Motivation definitely helps with energy and I was motivated. The weather was holding but I suspected it could change quickly at any moment.

The miles felt pretty easy past the huts of Yokoo-Sanso and Yarisawa. Beyond Yarisawa the trail began it's real climb and clouds started to appear. Around that point I saw the first non-Japanese person I had seen since Matsumoto. He was an American camping with his Japanese girlfriend and is teaching at a University in Tokyo. He informed me that a typhoon that was the causing of the rain had stalled so the day should not be too bad. We chatted for a little then I resumed my vigorous pace as the clouds rolled in and began to build. I was hopefully optimistic at that point.

Above tree line as the trail steepened and I started to feel the altitude a little I slowed. I then saw what appeared to be large Marmots leaping before me but they turned out to be Monkeys! I have never seen monkeys in an Alpine environment. I got my camera just in time to get a decent photo as they bobbed along not paying much attention to me. I pressed on. The clouds blew in and out.

The summit of Yariga-take was now in view. The wind picked up. At one moment the summit was socked in then it was clear. A few drops of rain then sun again. I pushed steadily up an alpine valley to the top of a ridge where the hut of Yari-daki-Sanso sits. And what a windy place it is. It’s quite a complex and allows camping if you don’t mind being blown off or least have your gear blown away.

From there the summit is very close with a just 300+ more feet of climbing. However, this is where it gets interesting. Clouds were blowing in and the wind was very strong with gale force gusts in my opinion. I took a break in the hut and watched the weather. It looked to be clearing a bit.

I saw one other party of 2 set out for the summit so I decided to follow their footsteps. Out the hut to the left I went led by circles and arrows painted on the rocks. I soon began using all four points of contact for a 3rd class scramble utilizing rock, chains, and ladders. The route is very well marked and safety is insured by taking ones time.

It’s all straight forward but I found the second metal ladder to be a little spooky with the wind, however, perfectly safe as long as I didn’t let go. Further up I scrambled with rock handhold, chain, some piece of metal sticking out of rock and the final ladder which seemed a little long and steep for comfort. Without thinking I just went for it. Up into the gusty wind I could hear the party of two before me giving a happy yell upon reaching the summit. Shortly thereafter I crested the top sharing the summit with just the 2. We exchanged cameras and took photos of each other.

Clouds and gusty wind followed by patchy holed views. On a clear still day it would be a joy to stay up top for awhile but the dodgy weather couple with a bit of a sketchy climb made the summit a little uncomfortable. The ladder was fairly dry when I ascending but I could tell a squall was blowing in and the descent would take a little while. I guess I spent about 10 minutes on the summit then carefully began my descent. I prefer down climbing on dry rock and rain was coming. I did not rush as clouds once again socked in the mountain. By time I got back to the hut the mountain was hit hard with horizontal rain and wind. Again, my timing was just right.

At that point I had been hiking for about 5 hours with not much too eat. I ordered up a nice curry rice hut lunch as the weather howled. I enjoyed a much needed break before making the trek back to base camp at Tokusawa.

As I started down from the hut the weather was pretty awful but about a half hour later it was perfectly clear again. I took another break on a rock where I met the American teacher and his girlfriend again. We chatted a bit and I leisurely descended as the clouds once again began to blow in. Steadily I hiked on and arrived back at base camp around 3:30 pm.

In all it was about a 16 mile round trip and right about the limit for comfort. Any longer would have been too long. I Immediately got something to eat and followed with a can of beer from a vending machine in the pub. That’s when it really started to pour. Again, Just the right timing.

The rain started falling harder and harder. I didn’t want to the leave the Hut’s pub but after 3 beers I knew I needed to. Into the dark and into my reasonably dry tent it rained all night.

The rain stopped as the sun rose but the mountains were socked in. I thought about what I wanted to do for my remaining time in Japan and quickly worked out a plan in my mind. I was satisfied with my Japan Alps experience and didn’t much feel like fighting the weather anymore so I decided I’d take more advantage of my rail pass which will expire on the 10th and add Hiroshima to my itinerary. A night in Hakuba, then stops in Kanazawa, Hiroshima, and Kyoto was what I came up with. Decisively I packed my pack and hiked the four miles out to catch a bus and train back to Matsumoto.

Local Train To Matsumoto

It’s early Tuesday morning on September 3. The latest I have been able to sleep is 6 am as jet lag still has me a little off. I’m the type that sleeps hard for about 4 hours then spends the rest of the night falling in and out of sleep. A long flight followed by travel definitely throws the off the biorhythms and it can take a good week or two to adjust. Not to mention eating different foods etc. also adds to the adjustment.

After climbing Fuji I spent three days roaming all over Tokyo and mastered the Subway system. Whenever I visit cities overseas I always do a lot of walking. At times I am pretty efficient at exploring the sites while other times I’m half lost in an area that’s not too interesting, however, I get a good feel for a place by doing so. Not to mention I like to walk. 

The area I stayed in while in Tokyo was fairly quiet which is kind of how I like it. One evening I walked the streets around Shinjuku with crowds of people, colorful lighted signs, night clubs, and the tricked out culture synonymous with modern day Tokyo. Young people walked about looking like characters on a Pokémon card while arcades were busy with volume turned up to 11. After that it was nice to return to my accommodation in Fukugawa which felt like a sleepy village in comparison.

On a couple of occasions I visited Shibuya as I was curious about the vintage clothing shops. Shibuya is very popular shopping area for not only top end fashion but vintage and used clothing from America. At first I passed vintage shops not realizing it because they looked too nice. Kind of like trendy boutiques. When I think of vintage clothing stores in America I picture a half junky business with a lot of clutter and a funky sign. Once I caught on what to look for in Tokyo I realized they are pretty common. Most are a mix of old and not so old. You can find everything from common American t-shirts, to blue collar works shirts with name/business tags, old denim, Boy Scout shirts, or an FFA Jacket from Texas. The variety is very eclectic, stylish, and foreign to Japan. Amidst the shops tucked off to the side of an alley a young Japanese entreupaneur has brought a bit of Austin, Texas to the middle of it all with a converted Airstream trailer burger café complete with aluminum tables and chairs. I stopped for a beer to cool off in the Tokyo heat.

So, Friday through Sunday I roamed the streets eating noodles, curry rice, and grabbed drink from one of the 40,000 + drink vending machines that are absolutely everywhere. Tokyo is ranks as one of the world’s greatest cities as it should be but for me I can’t say it really grabbed me like some places do. It’s a massive city of thirteen million people splashed out in a cluttered mess of concrete and high rise buildings. There are cool neighborhoods and massive bright light intersections but in some ways it lacks a balance. Parks are limited and not too impressive. Void are outdoor cafes and places to simply sit and people watch. Tokyo is too much on the move. There’s a small gem of a park or temple here and there but I think the true heart of Tokyo lays in its machine like cutting edge self as it innovates and designs technology and trends that shape the world. In that regard it really is quite impressive.

In the evenings I spent time on the internet trying to figure out how I would move about the country. Language difficulties are definitely an issue in Japan and information resources in English are a quite limited. Trying to find time tables for buses and trains in English can be kind of challenging at the station. One option is to just go up to a ticket counter and ask for your desired destination and see how it goes. Or, now with the internet you can root around for the one good site with train time tables in English and get sorted before walking up to the counter. With a fair bit of research I could only find one good bus site and one good train site in English. I know there are other sites but notice I used the adjective “Good”.

Japan is an expensive place to travel and by far the best deals for getting around are with one of the special train or bus passes. They are especially good if you intend to cover long distances. I chose a seasonal pass that not too many foreign travelers know about. It’s a pass that allows 5 days of train travel over a given seasonal time period. The one I bought is a summer pass and is good for the summer season which starts around the beginning of July and goes until the middle of September. You can travel any 5 days within that time frame. The way it works is that you get your pass stamped for the day and you’re good to ride all day on all local and rapid trains. In reality they are both slow trains but they can get you to a lot of places easily. With an early start you can cover a lot of distance.

When I went to Tokyo station to buy my pass I must admit I was a little intimidated but I blamed it on being a little out of practice. I figured if I could ride trains all over India, China, and Russia I should be able to navigate the organized Japanese system just fine. After all, one of the things I’ve enjoyed most about traveling overseas is riding the rails. Local trains are one of the best ways of seeing the real side of a country.

On Sunday I went to the one good train site in English and pulled up time timetables on my laptop. I then took photos of each chart with my digital camera. That way I would know what line to get on and what stations I should be passing through as well a general time frame of where I should be at any given moment. Monday morning, after six days in Tokyo, I loaded my pack and walked down to Tokyo station which was less than a 30 minute walk. Although most all information is in Japanese there’s just enough English to make it easy. I found my line no problem, got my ticket stamped, and a few minutes later was aboard my first train of the day in the midst of Tokyo rush hour with a big pack. Yep, it’s just like the photos. People crammed in like an overstuffed sardine can. Luckily I found a corner seat.

The train turned out to be a breeze. With my timetables and the train’s terminus listed on each car in Japanese and English I was able to figure it out with ease. I rode with two easy transfers for a little over 5 very relaxing hours to a rainy Matsumto in a valley boarding the Japanese Alps. Just out the train station to the left was a quick 3 minute walk to my hotel. I checked into the Hotel New Station which was another Hotels. com $50 find. It’s a nice place. Japan may be expensive but I am finding accommodation to be very reasonable. Yes, the rooms are small but clean and have everything you need. I think since so many Japanese travel for business, hotel costs are kept in check due to competition. I wouldn’t be getting this kind of quality for $50 in the states. That’s for sure!

I arrived in Matsumoto at 1 pm and check in wasn’t until 3pm so the hotel sent me off on a 20 minute walk to their famous castle with a map and umbrella. It’s not a castle in the European sense. Think late 1590’s fort with Japanese warriors. For 600 Yen ($6) you get to go inside. Cool!

My next objective is to take a bus to Kamikochi and hike in the Alps but the weather is crap right now. It’s rainy and kind of cold. The online forecasts are dubious and conflicting. I’ve got camping gear and the huts are also open. I figure I’ll head that way and see how it goes.
 

Mt Fuji - Sunrise

I arrived on a Tuesday and woke up early Wednesday with a wide awake alertness that ironically comes from jet lag despite little sleep. Feeling energetic I checked the weather for the top of Japan, Mt Fuji. My original plan was to spend a few days in Tokyo then hike/climb Fuji before proceeding on to the Japanese Alps but long range forecasts were not looking good. Wednesday and Thursday looked fine with Friday being questionable. A tropical storm was predicted to arrive sometime during the weekend. I figured my best bet for nice weather would be to ascend Fuji right away.

I threw together a very light day pack with warm weather gear and basic essentials. The plan was to take a bus to the 5th station Yoshida trail and rely on huts for food and accommodation. Mt Fuji is a huge draw for not only Japanese but for people from all over the world. There are several ways to do it but all require an honest hike with a minimum elevation gain of 4,500 feet to reach the summit. It’s not technical but you definitely have to earn the summit. The Yoshida trail reaches the summit crater rim in 4 miles which pretty much has you hiking straight up with some short switchbacks.

Ok, Fuji is a beautiful mountain and the pride of Japan as it should be but to say it’s a huge draw for hiker/climbers is a bit of an understatement. Thousands upon thousands of Japanese ascend it each year along with a large portion of foreign climbers. Logistically it’s a breeze. You can catch a direct bus from Tokyo to the trailhead that takes between 2 to 3 hours depending on traffic. The 5th station base/trailhead has several shops surrounding a village square reminiscent of something you might see in Europe. When I got there around noon the square was full of hundreds of people preparing to go up. I had heard about the crowds ascending Fuji so it was kind of novel to be experiencing it firsthand.

A healthy hiker can definitely leave early in the morning, hike to the top and return in a day no problem, however, if you’re going to climb Fuji the main objective, other than reaching the summit, is to watch the sunrise. Most people hike partway up, check into a hut for dinner and a little sleep, then get up early to the make the top in time for sunrise. There are fifteen huts along the route so you really don’t need much more than warm weather gear for the summit.

After a bowl of noodles I hit the trail. At first it was lots of people but the way was wide. As it narrowed hikers become bunched up. At some places it was single file and things moved along at a snail’s pace but everyone was nice and patient. At each hut things became a little congested as people stopped for green tea and things like that. A lot of Japanese were hiking in groups. Most of the groups seemed pretty young. All were very organized and had an air of camaraderie. Sometimes the leaders would be giving what sounded like an information/pep talk at breaks along the way. As I ascended I could see a snake line of hikers above and below. I began to wonder if I should have made a reservation at one of the huts.

As I got a good ways up the mountain I decided it was time to start inquiring about a space in a hut. The one I stopped at had one person who spoke minimal broken English. Space was available and I handed over $75 for dinner, breakfast, and a futon with sleeping bag sandwiched between, of all people, a group of U.S. Navy guys stationed in Japan on leave.

Everyone working at the hut was very nice. The accommodation although very basic was good and adequate if not a bit expensive. Management was organized and efficient. Things were well maintained. There was very little garbage anywhere as people appeared to be very good about packing it out. Most impressive is the management of human waste. All of the huts have proper toilets that work with composting technology or some king of magic. The ones I used were very clean and really didn’t smell much at all.

By time I settled into the hut I was feeling tired but wired. I went in and out to observe the chain of people ascending and took pictures of passing clouds. I had an early dinner at 4:30 and lay down for sleep shortly thereafter.

People started getting up at about 1 am. By 1:30 everyone was getting up. I went out to use the toilet and couldn’t believe the crowds of people. Everyone was wearing a headlamp so the chain now looked like a serpentine cluster of bobbing lights. I went back in and opened my boxed breakfast which had been given to me the night before. It contained vegetarian sushi, fresh thin sliced ginger, some kind of sweet rice something or other that looked like an egg roll (3) and a small can of green tea. I ate the sushi and a rice thing which was surprisingly good then got my things together for the hike up.

I left the hut feeling pretty good and was enjoying the experience. I’ve hiked a lot of mountains but the Fuji experience is very different with all of the people. I made it to the top of the rim rather quickly with plenty of time to spare before sunrise. The wind was blowing and it was cold.

Mt Fuji is an inactive Volcano. The Yoshida trail tops out on a of section of the Fuji crater rim that isn’t really the summit but it is the best place to watch the sunrise. There are a few buildings selling this and that and a shrine. People were lining up to get into one structure which I sensed was some kind of warming hut. It was still very dark, cold, and kind of windy. A half-moon partially lit up the sky and I didn’t feel like sitting around so I decided to circumnavigate the rim over the actual summit which is about a mile around. I adjusted my headlamp and searched out the trail.

After being amidst so many people it felt kind of strange starting out around the rim in the dark by myself. I was careful to stay on the correct path but wasn’t seeing anyone. I caught up to an older British gentleman turning back. He said he was too cold and appeared a little disoriented. I continued on. To me the trail was pretty obvious and an occasional signpost confirmed my status from time to time. It became a dreamy stroll with the lights of cities and towns in the distance ten to twelve thousand feet below. Lightly scattered clouds slept at about seven to eight thousand feet and a glowing half-moon above allowed me to turn off my headlamp. At about the mid-point I reached the actual summit at 12,355 ft. with a junky set of small towers, a little weather station, and a nice stone monument. From there I pressed on thus completing my way around to the top of the Yoshida trail to meet up with hundreds if not a thousand others to watch the sunrise.

A light glow started to appear above the horizon. Slowly the sun rose as I moved about taking photos. Just at the point where the sun made its full appearance a Japanese man raised his arm as he shouted something and followed it with a Banzai! By American standards I’d say it was pretty Awesome….

I spent a fair amount of time on the summit as the sun fully rose and took a few photos. The wind was picking up and I had been kind of cold for a while so decided it was time to head down.

Aside of the view the hike down is far less dramatic. It’s a different trail which is a steep set of switchbacks upon loose pumice gravel and dirt with dubious footing. The actual descent path is relatively wide and appears like it was carved out by some kind machinery or something. It’s good that they made a different way to go descend because if everyone went up and down the same trail it would be an absolute mess.

When I reached the bottom I purchased a bus ticket back to Tokyo and returned to the place I had previously booked into. I had prepaid for 6 nights so I didn’t move my stuff or anything. Needless to say I was tired. I showered, napped, went out for dinner, and went to sleep.

So far I am off to a busy start in Japan. Mt Fuji was at the top of my list so I am very happy I got to climb it. I would like to do some more hiking but It doesn’t really matter so much if I do or don’t. It’s more or less weather dependent at this point. For now it’s Tokyo until Monday then I will move on to somewhere else in Japan.

Tokyo, Japan - Back In Action

My trip had already been delayed by a month due to personal issues but I was actually on my way to the airport. In the days preceding my departure I had been sidetracked by a myriad of distractions laced with indecision which had me feeling very unsettled. Normally when I leave to go overseas there’s an element of anticipation and excitement but this time it seemed to be lacking. I questioned my intentions. However, I know myself pretty well. Experience has taught me that once the ball gets rolling perspective changes. More than anything I just needed to get away.

Although I packed the standard usual pack it seemed heavier and more cumbersome. When I put it on the scale at baggage check the total weight came out to 35 pounds. Not bad actually when you consider camping gear, laptop, and the stupidly heavy Lonely Planet guide book. Even though my pack provides me with all of the above for options I know I can travel the world on half the weight. I boarded the plane like a distracted driver on cruise control.

The flight was long but 13 hours direct from Houston to Tokyo is as good as it gets if you’re traveling to Asia from Texas. The only thing that could make it any better would be flying First Class. I watched “The Life of Pi” on the flight over and thought it was an excellent movie. It gave me a hint of inspiration.

I think it was when the flight attendant starting passing out entry and customs cards that I started to feel a little more normal. Once I de-boarded and cleared customs I felt even better. I then hit the ATM, got some Yen, and asked a guy at tourist information where bus stop 31 was. The bus driver barely spoke English and everything was in Japanese. I had just arrived in a country I hadn’t been to but with a familiarity that comes with having been to many foreign places. It was then that I started feeling like my old self.

The bus dropped me at Tokyo station. From there I could take the subway but I figured a walk would be best from my jet lag. Thankfully I brought a map that I didn’t think I’d need and found my way to my accommodation with little difficulty.

The manager was expecting me and spoke decent English. He explained the building, showed me the laundry facilities (which are free) and my accommodation which is actually a small studio apartment with bathroom, refrigerator and basic cooking supplies. It’s located in a narrow nine story building in a residential like, quieter part of Tokyo. I found it on Hotels.com of all places and the reviews were pretty good. Especially at a rate that comes out to $50 USD a night. The bed is clean and firm but comfy. An easy 10 minute walk gets me to a Subway that can shuttle me anywhere within a city of 13 million people.

This will be a relatively short journey this time around. 3 weeks in Japan. For some it may seem like a long trip. For me, 3 weeks is just about the amount of time I start to feel like I’m really getting into it. That’s when travel starts to become a lifestyle and the word "Home" takes on a different meaning. Well, at any rate it's good to be back in action. I can't believe it's already been a year and a half since I've traveled outside of the states.

Is The Heat Getting To Me?

Galveston, Texas












Houston is damn hot right now. I am being harshly reminded why I normally flee the Bayou City during the summer. Daytime highs in upper 90’s, overnight lows in the 70’s and heat indexes upwards of a 110. The best option for dealing with the heat besides hanging out with a good air conditioner is to drive to Galveston and enjoy the breeze off the Gulf of Mexico. From where I live it's an easy one hour drive.

When I trotted through this morning’s six mile run I felt slower than usual but know better than to push too hard in the heat. As my Asics Gel Cumulus 14 running shoes tap the pavement in rhythm to a ringing in my ears, that’s been giving me fits for the past month, a song goes round and round through my head. It’s an instrumental tune that I have never heard before. I am certain the heat is the culprit. It’s a catchy rhythm. Words start to form a repetitions chorus, “I’ve been all over the place but I haven’t gotten anywhere”.

Life through my Maui Jim rose colored sunglasses is starting to look a little different. Perhaps it’s snapping open a grouping of synapses that have been lying dormant in the storage shed of “Someday I’ll get to it”. Or, has the continuing holding pattern of circumstance forced me to take pause and consider a different cookie in the jar.

I look at people the same age as me and think there’s no way we are the same age. I’m not that old! I remember an idea I was going to act upon yesterday and realize yesterday was 5, 10, or 20 years ago. I see a friend’s family photo on Facebook and stop as I realize that the cute young girl is not a buddy’s middle age fling but his daughter who’s just finished University.

I’ve been accused of not realizing how old I am. I guess not having taken the corporate professional route, never being married and avoiding the whole kid and family thing has me living like a 29 year old. However, when I look at what’s going on in the 20 something reality I definitely feel my age. I’ll never understand tattoos and piercings or texting someone in the same room. When I have a problem with someone I always prefer to take up the issue in person and regret it when I don’t. Now the young folks don’t know how to talk in person. Young employees quit jobs via text message and go around misunderstanding each other all over the place while splattering it all over social media. Most of all I absolutely and totally don’t get the fascination with Zombies.

All in all things are ok. At least I think so. However, I find my new found fascination with Jackson Pollock’s work to a bit odd. I should be in Japan right now on an excursion for 3 to 4 weeks struggling with language difficulties, eating odd foods, and living up to my “World Traveler and Thinker” persona which has been steadily fading over the last year. Instead of leaving as planned I postponed my departure with an option of canceling.

An issue with my right ear continues my holding pattern status. Although annoying it appears to be nothing serious and simply something that has to be managed. The ear Doc says I’m fine to fly and I passed my recent annual exam with a capitol H for healthy. A spiritual but not religious gluten free vegan friend rattled off a number of suggestions pertaining to the ear issue and finished her advice with, “What is it you’re not wanting to hear”. I responded with, “That’s interesting”.

Thursday & Friday

THURSDAY

With my mother finally done with 6 months of Chemo and things looking up I felt it was ok to return to Houston from Denver and get on with my own thing for a while. It’s hot out. 100F/38C. The heat does little to motivate my current case of work burnout and I’m tired of driving all over the place. My effectiveness at chasing the golden carrot at the end of the stick is hampered by a desire to chase something else. I cut today’s search and buy session short. Two estate sales, one with loads of records, yielded nothing much. Of course I missed the best sale that opened at noon as my competition wondered where the heck I was. Never mind me. I was trotting around the neighborhood boiling my brain in the glaring heat searching for common sense and a little inspiration while running 4 miles. Somehow I thought it was the more constructive thing to do.

Old patterns, habits, and routines can be hard to break when they seem to work Ok with a nice upside. However, one never really knows what a nice new suit and fresh persona is like until one gets up and trades in their old bag of tricks for a new improved set of tools. Suspending that in which one thinks they are can open up a plethora of exciting possibilities. Is the best one can do found in roaming amidst Desert Mountains with a mule named Mud in search of the elusive big nugget of joy? Or, is it in the awakening of a new direction with an enhanced perspective of, “This is what I do”, “That is what I did”, and “Experience has made me who I am”. The question is whether or not to hold on to what I know or to let go for what can be known. Regardless, I’ve got it pretty darned good in life.

The Grand Canyon is a vast and beautiful place. But it’s also rut. I’ve been to the bottom a couple of times and camped a few days on both occasions. The river runs by as you stare at the canyon walls but it’s hard to see much. After a few days at the bottom you either hike up, take a mule out, or you ride the river with its strong currents and big ass rapids. I’ve always hiked. Always.

FRIDAY

It’s still Hot Hot Hot. 100F/38C. In Houston this could continue until September sometime.

Today I was very successfully inefficient. I circumnavigated the city on the inner loop known as the 610. Very few rewards were met but I’ll make enough money to pay for gas and a sandwich. What we put our time into has an enormous effect on who we are. Our thoughts, actions, attitudes, and beliefs sculpt our human experience and direct our path along the avenue of life.

Setting unreasonably low expectations and dabbling in the realm of victim mentality is extremely limiting. A helping hand is a good thing but an expected handout is disempowering.

Big Fish

A week ago I once again made the 16 ½ hour straight thru drive between Denver and Houston. I know the drive so well that I literally think I could do it in my sleep if I haven’t already. A couple of days after arriving back in the Bayou City my nephew Max flew down for a couple of nights before hopping a bus for a 3 week stint at a Texas hill country lakeside summer camp.

With a whole day to kick around I took Max on nice tour along the Gulf of Mexico. The route follows highway 288 to Surfside then the Blue Water Highway up along the coast across San Luis Pass to Galveston Island with a return via Interstate 45. It makes a nice loop and a very pleasant day. There’s nothing exotic about the drive but it’s a nice diversion from Houston.

Just before you cross over a bridge to the long flat barrier island and stilted beach community of Surfside there’s a pull off to the right. A short dusty road leads to an open parking lot with a boat dock and weathered looking bait shop building. Harley riders call it the bait camp as it’s a popular place with the biker crowd. The front side of the building doesn’t look particularly hospitable which does a good job of keeping out a respectable crowd.

The building houses a nice little store with Ice cold drinks and a good sized live bait business which flows out to a nice deck/dock with a friendly bar and very relaxed atmosphere. Boats come and go while good music plays. Often in the afternoon during weekends people fry up fresh fish and shrimp donated by various fishermen that’s served up for free to anyone and everyone but it’s good style to leave a tip in the jar. One day I stopped there and had some of the best fried shrimp I’ve ever had.

As I was introducing Max to the bait camp a guy asked if Max would like to fish of the dock. He had an extra pole and we had time so Max took him up on the offer. The guy told us it was a good place to catch small fish for fun. Max caught a small fish and I took a photo. He continued to fish and I talked with the easy going regular Joe kind of guy who I found out owned a company with 1,000 employees that looks after oil refinery safety etc. You would never know by looking at him but he was obviously very well off. He was enjoying the day with his two sons who appeared to be around 10 and 12.

I figured Max hooked something pretty big with the pole bent all the way over as he leaned the opposite direction to maintain his balance with a perplexed look on his face. Max wasn’t sure what to do and looked to our host for help, however, we both wanted Max to earn his catch. The fish was putting up a fight as a boat moved to get out of the way while the fish danced around an outbaord motor. By this time a small crowd was gathering and Max was getting a workout. Slowly he reeled it in and I was hoping the light weight reel, pole, and line would hold. The fish surfaced and we could see it was a big one. A fisherman donated his net and someone scooped it up. The man running the live bait area told us to take a couple of pictures and get it back in the water. It was above the legal limit.

The fish known as a Drum weighed approximately 30 pounds and was obviously longer than the acceptable size range. There was a lot of excitement and congratulations for Max. He seemed a little surprised and bewildered by his stroke of good luck as he has practically no fishing experience.