Regardless sometimes you just have to go. I knew the weather wasn’t going to be favorable but I needed to experience the Japanese Alps and had the desire to ascend one of Japan’s most handsome peaks, Mt. Yariga-take.
The Japanese Alps have a very nice network of trails traversing ridges, following valleys, and ascending summits. There are also many well equipped and impressively managed huts. If a hiker takes advantage of the huts one can travel very light with a small daypack, however, it will set you back $80 to $100 a day for a dorm space with two meals. Although the huts are very popular many people choose to carry camping gear in the same fashion as we do in America. There are free designated camping spots along the trails but you can also camp at the huts for around $5.
From the moment I left Matsumoto my timing seemed to be on. I randomly arrived at the bus station 20 minutes before a direct bus to Kamikochi. From there is was about an hour and a half ride to Kmaikochi which is a popular trailhead located within a scenic mountain river valley and borders on Chubusangaku National Park.
When I got off the bus it was pouring rain but there was a very nice, large, and aesthetically well-designed visitors center with a few shops and open air bus terminal. I checked the weather forecast and asked an English speaking attendant a few questions. The outlook was for wind and rain. I hung around for an hour while it poured.
When it finally stopped I figured I’d better get going. My plan was to head 4 miles up the valley to the site of two huts. The woman at the visitor’s center said they were more like lodges than huts and I could camp there. I had also read that it was an exceptionally nice spot. Since I have my tent with me I figured I’d camp and save a little money. From there I could make it a base camp and decide on the weather what to do next. I originally wanted to do a nice loop that would require a long exposed ridge traverse but U didn't fancy doing in the rain. Aside of being a little dangerous it wouldn’t be fun. Whatever I decided it would likely be an out and back hike.
The hike in was dry and the clouds seemed to be lifting a bit The walking was easy. Again, I seemed to time it right. The two huts of Tokosawa-en were indeed more like mountain lodges. Although the only way in was by a 4 mile walk/hike there appeared to be a secret back road that allowed for supplies to be brought in easily. Situated between the two structures was a nice open meadow perfect for camping. A few tents were set about. I inquired and paid $10 for two nights, set up camp, and had a beer at the English themed pub attached to one of the lodges.
The evening was also dry and the clouds actually seemed to be breaking apart a little when I crawled into my tent. By mid night I could see stars. When the sun started to come up around 5 am it was perfectly clear. I saw it as a window of opportunity but was a little puzzled why the weather was so good when the reports were so bad. With Mt. Yariga-take on the mind I knew I was within striking distance. I suddenly felt very motivated and knew I could do from where I was as long as the weather held. If worse came to worse I’d be passing huts and could always dive into one for the night if need be.
I hastily threw together a light pack and by 5:30 began hiking vigorously. From camp it was roughly 8 miles to the top with over 4,000 elevation gain. Motivation definitely helps with energy and I was motivated. The weather was holding but I suspected it could change quickly at any moment.
The miles felt pretty easy past the huts of Yokoo-Sanso and Yarisawa. Beyond Yarisawa the trail began it's real climb and clouds started to appear. Around that point I saw the first non-Japanese person I had seen since Matsumoto. He was an American camping with his Japanese girlfriend and is teaching at a University in Tokyo. He informed me that a typhoon that was the causing of the rain had stalled so the day should not be too bad. We chatted for a little then I resumed my vigorous pace as the clouds rolled in and began to build. I was hopefully optimistic at that point.
Above tree line as the trail steepened and I started to feel the altitude a little I slowed. I then saw what appeared to be large Marmots leaping before me but they turned out to be Monkeys! I have never seen monkeys in an Alpine environment. I got my camera just in time to get a decent photo as they bobbed along not paying much attention to me. I pressed on. The clouds blew in and out.
The summit of Yariga-take was now in view. The wind picked up. At one moment the summit was socked in then it was clear. A few drops of rain then sun again. I pushed steadily up an alpine valley to the top of a ridge where the hut of Yari-daki-Sanso sits. And what a windy place it is. It’s quite a complex and allows camping if you don’t mind being blown off or least have your gear blown away.
From there the summit is very close with a just 300+ more feet of climbing. However, this is where it gets interesting. Clouds were blowing in and the wind was very strong with gale force gusts in my opinion. I took a break in the hut and watched the weather. It looked to be clearing a bit.
I saw one other party of 2 set out for the summit so I decided to follow their footsteps. Out the hut to the left I went led by circles and arrows painted on the rocks. I soon began using all four points of contact for a 3rd class scramble utilizing rock, chains, and ladders. The route is very well marked and safety is insured by taking ones time.
It’s all straight forward but I found the second metal ladder to be a little spooky with the wind, however, perfectly safe as long as I didn’t let go. Further up I scrambled with rock handhold, chain, some piece of metal sticking out of rock and the final ladder which seemed a little long and steep for comfort. Without thinking I just went for it. Up into the gusty wind I could hear the party of two before me giving a happy yell upon reaching the summit. Shortly thereafter I crested the top sharing the summit with just the 2. We exchanged cameras and took photos of each other.
Clouds and gusty wind followed by patchy holed views. On a clear still day it would be a joy to stay up top for awhile but the dodgy weather couple with a bit of a sketchy climb made the summit a little uncomfortable. The ladder was fairly dry when I ascending but I could tell a squall was blowing in and the descent would take a little while. I guess I spent about 10 minutes on the summit then carefully began my descent. I prefer down climbing on dry rock and rain was coming. I did not rush as clouds once again socked in the mountain. By time I got back to the hut the mountain was hit hard with horizontal rain and wind. Again, my timing was just right.
At that point I had been hiking for about 5 hours with not much too eat. I ordered up a nice curry rice hut lunch as the weather howled. I enjoyed a much needed break before making the trek back to base camp at Tokusawa.
As I started down from the hut the weather was pretty awful but about a half hour later it was perfectly clear again. I took another break on a rock where I met the American teacher and his girlfriend again. We chatted a bit and I leisurely descended as the clouds once again began to blow in. Steadily I hiked on and arrived back at base camp around 3:30 pm.
In all it was about a 16 mile round trip and right about the limit for comfort. Any longer would have been too long. I Immediately got something to eat and followed with a can of beer from a vending machine in the pub. That’s when it really started to pour. Again, Just the right timing.
The rain started falling harder and harder. I didn’t want to the leave the Hut’s pub but after 3 beers I knew I needed to. Into the dark and into my reasonably dry tent it rained all night.
The rain stopped as the sun rose but the mountains were socked in. I thought about what I wanted to do for my remaining time in Japan and quickly worked out a plan in my mind. I was satisfied with my Japan Alps experience and didn’t much feel like fighting the weather anymore so I decided I’d take more advantage of my rail pass which will expire on the 10th and add Hiroshima to my itinerary. A night in Hakuba, then stops in Kanazawa, Hiroshima, and Kyoto was what I came up with. Decisively I packed my pack and hiked the four miles out to catch a bus and train back to Matsumoto.
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