The Amaxing Tiger Cave - Koh Lanta

I picked around the black coated banana and didn’t worry about it as the porridge was hot. I figured the bananas were probably still ok but in no way appetizing based on appearance. It was the kind of black that makes you think the banana had been peeled a while ago and sat upon counter in an open container. Not just a bruised black. At 70 Bhat, about two bucks, I just paid for the breakfast but let them know that tourists don’t like black tinged bananas.

Today is Saturday and I’ve been three nights at Khlong Hin beach on Koh Lanta. I’ll stay a fourth because it doesn’t make sense moving today. The weather has turned into crap. The waves of the first couple of days have calmed but a slow moving front bringing steady rain has set in. It’s been cloudy and overcast ever since I arrived. I had hoped the rainy season would be done by now but it seems to be hanging on.

Fortunately, I decided on a snorkeling day trip yesterday when the weather wasn’t so bad. I booked a trip on a speed boat to the island of Koh Rok the night before. Despite cloudy skies the rain was sparse and very light. Snorkeling in cloudy weather usually isn’t that great but the reefs we visited had plenty of colorful fish and the clouds seemed to thin a bit for better lighting. I saw a good number of parrot fish and so forth amidst lots of coral. The tour I went with was a small group and we snorkeled at three different spots around the Island. For lunch we stopped at a beach where we were served a really good lunch curry and drinks. The all day outing with everything included was around $32 USD which included transfer to and from hotel.

My first day on Koh Lanta, after posting my last post, turned out to be kind of adventurous. I went for a walk along the road above the beach past Diamond beach and saw a sign for Tiger Cave. I took a left on a dirt road and started walking up. I asked someone how far to Tiger Cave. They said one km. I kept on walking past run down houses, garbage, and a small rubber tree plantation. I took another left up a narrower road and things started looking nicer and more tropical. I arrived at a small shack of a place with a large banner saying, “The Amaxing Tiger Cave”.

I was greeted by a man in traditional Muslim garb that asked me in good English if I would like to visit the cave and told me I needed to hire a guide. He said it was a 30 minute jungle hike to the cave or 20 minute if I was a good walker. I negotiated the Guide price down from 300 Bhat to 250 Bhat.

I thought the person I was talking to was going to guide me but as it turned out he was just the manager. Two other very disinterested fellows were laying in hammocks messing with their smart phones. The manager appeared to instruct one to be my guide but he fired back with a reluctant voice as he was busy watching a video on his phone. The manager, who I had just given my money to, sat down to have lunch.

I asked if everything was ok. He said everything was ok but I needed to wait a minute. He said something else to the two guys and I waited. It wasn’t a long wait but the guy who was supposed to be my guide didn’t appear to have any intention of getting up and away from his stupid phone. So, the manager coaxed the other guide who very reluctantly got up and put on his flip flops. He was given two headlamps. Without saying a word or even looking at me he started walking towards the trail. I just followed.

Into the jungle we walked briskly along a muddy trail that cris-crossed a creek. With the wet and all I figured it was prime leech country so I was careful not to step in the water and took my time in places if needed. The guide did turn around a few times to make sure I wasn’t far behind. About 20 minutes or so we reached the cave entrance.

We put on headlamps and entered via a makeshift ladder and crossed another ladder laid horizontal as a bridge. I was being very careful not to hit my head as I watched my footing. I thought it was just be a short little venture when we rounded out towards another entrance but that wasn’t the case. At that point we headed back into the cave through a small opening into a small room. I figured from there we would back track. Not the case. Instead my guide squeezed through a small hole into a small tunnel. I figured that was the crux and asked if we were going much further. He said, “No”, which was the only word he spoke. Through a smaller hole we crawled. It got kind of muddy. It was very tight. We paused at a couple of small rooms. I tried to take a couple of photos. I wondered what would happen if there was an earthquake. Someone larger than myself would have a very difficult time passing through time and I’m not a big guy.

The cave by cave standards was not particularly nice or amazing but there was an adventure factor considering how I just stumbled upon it and didn’t know what I was getting into. Also, the jungle setting wasn’t bad. At one point I think the guide may have cracked a smile as he could see I was struggling a bit with the tight spots and in an odd way I was kind of enjoying myself. It didn’t really take long navigating through the cave but when I saw light at the end I was happy to get out. No tigers.

We headed back down to the trail along the creek. Again, I carefully navigated my steps along the creek but by the end I picked up one leech. I got it early before it inflated. Fortunately, they are not dangerous and don’t carry disease but if you don’t catch them early they can leave a pretty bad bite bruise that can get infected.

As soon as we got back to the trailhead shack my guide disappeared. The manager gave me a bottle of water and in friendly manner asked me how I liked it. A few other locals were there and seemed to be a little friendlier. It was as if I passed their little initiation or something and was a good tourist who supports local people by paying for a guide. Some tourist say they just want to hike the trail without going to the cave and try to get around paying. One thing I’ve found in many countries is that you are treated much better by the locals when you have a guide. In a lot of countries it’s not expensive or downright cheap to hire one. Some guides are very good and make for a very special experience you would never have on your own. Others just show the way and keep you from getting lost which was the case with my Tiger Cave guide. I was happy to have him. There is no way I would have toured the cave on my own, as I did with the guide, despite his reluctance and not saying but one word the entire time.

Yesterday evening I visited the beach bar, next to the hotel I’m staying at, in search of conversation. I ordered a happy hour Mojito and it was probably the best I’ve ever had. I struck up conversation with a Brit who has been traveling for almost a year. Small waves fell gently on shore and the horizon was lit up with green lights from numerous fishing boats looking for squid. A couple of drinks and occasional cup of coffee don’t seem to be affecting my Meniere’s as it did last winter when I traveled New Zealand which is very nice. I enjoy the social aspect of a drink or two in the evening. Knock on wood.

So far I’ve made the most of Koh Lanta considering the weather. I’ve checked the radar and weather forecasts. It doesn’t look good for the next several days. Further north near Bangkok looks ok and northern Thailand looks fine. Today is particularly bad with the possibility of flooding in areas so I feel fine just staying put. It’s not a good day for doing anything and the open air restaurant at the hotel is busy with other travelers just hanging out. I suppose I could head back north to get out the rain but that would be leaving the Islands behind when I haven’t really seen or done much. I’ll most likely just stick with my plan and head to Ko Lipe tomorrow. After all, my whole intention of this two weeks is to see Islands and beaches.