Upon arriving in Surant Thani everyone with a ticket for an onward bus was hustled into a couple of small restaurants. Oh, I get it, the tour company operating the bus wants everyone to eat at their restaurant before departing. If you didn’t order something you were asked to go to the bus and wait.
The bus departed about an hour after arriving. It was a nice bus but the driver was surly. About an hour and a half into the ride I asked the driver if there would be a restroom stop as several people needed one. A couple of minutes later he pulled to the side of the open road. It was too public for me to urinate but one guy from Europe really appreciated me saying something and had no problem going as cars whizzed by. Everyone else just held it except for the driver who decided he needed to go as well. He pissed behind the bus..
Near Krabi town the bus took a back way down a narrow road and dropped everyone at a business that arranges tours. The intention was to get people to book an onward ticket or reservation with them. What a racket. The drop was disorienting. I was told town center was 5 km away and that it would cost another 50 Bhat to get a ride there. One backpacker demanded to be taken to town for free and was kind of making a scene. I just went ahead and paid the extra $1.60 or so because I didn’t really know where I was.
Krabi town center was less than a mile away and that is where I was dropped. The town did not appeal to me at all but I needed to eat. I walked into a cheap eats place and ordered fish and chips which were not very good. I renamed Krabi town, Krappy town, and started to look for a way out. I had already intended to go to Railay beach and saw in my guide book that it was really close. It’s located on a peninsula that is only reachable by boat.
The boat dock was easy to find. While waiting for the boat I met a couple of young women from Germany who complained how they kept running into Germans. The Germans are everywhere. They had also just traveled from Myanmar and talked about how everyone gets sick there.
The boat ride was what I expected but a little wet. Mixed overcast skies with gusty winds detracted from the beauty. The boat dropped us at floating pier that was rolling with the waves of high tide. I proceeded towards land.
The setting for Railay’s beaches is undoubtedly beautiful if not spectacular. Exposed limestone karst cliffs with colors of gray, rust, and white rise up to form steep hills covered with thick tropical forest. The Peninsula forms two main beaches. One on the east and one on the west. The east side is windward and a little rocky. The west side is calm and sandy. Along both beaches are resorts. The short five minute walk through the woods between both beaches in lined with restaurants, bars, and patrolled by a bandit monkeys that might grab your leg until you let go of your fruit shake.
Yes, it’s beautiful but aside of natural beauty Railay lacks real character. It entirely caters to the western tourists like gringos at a Mexican resort. By time I arrived at Railay I was a bit wired from the travel and figured it would be best to just get a place for the night. The west side was far too expensive. The East side is expensive but considerably less so. Fine for a night or two. The cheap backpacker places were located at some other hippy beach that I’d have to wait for low tide to access or hire a boat. Hippy funky can be both good and/or not so good. I didn’t want to mess with that so I checked out three places. I chose a worn bungalow in a very nice setting but wound up paying twice what I would have expected. Good for a night.
I had a beer but didn’t find it appealing. I ordered a Pad Thai for an early dinner but it wasn’t very good. Probably because I asked for no MSG. I walked around. I went for a swim in the lovely hotel pool set below a cliff but the water was cold. The sunset on the west beach was nice and the fruit shake I had while watching was very good. I found a bar for conversation but the happy hour Mojito I ordered was absolutely terrible and I don’t think it had hardly any alcohol which ironically was probably a good thing.
Earlier that day, upon arriving in Railay, I met an African American backpacker from the States. I mention African American because I rarely see someone black from the USA backpacking around Asia, especially alone. He was a really cool guy and had been hopping Islands for the past few weeks. He seemed to be very good at finding the gems on each Island and was great for getting advice. He said no matter the place you can always find some cool spots because most tourist just want to drink and lay on the beach. I told him I really wasn’t feeling Railay. He advised I head south to Koh Lanta and Caliope. Although he hadn’t been to either Island he had heard good things. I had originally intended to do some rock climbing on Railay as it’s world known but also a bit of a scene. I decided to pass since I haven’t climbed in years and I’d probably just pull a muscle in my back or something.
Krabi and Raily thus far feel a little like reverse culture shock. I think by time I left Myanmar I was just getting the feel a more foreign and more adventurous experience. There is nothing secret or adventurous in my opinion when it comes to Thailand. It’s all been discovered and western tourists, mostly Europeans, come in crowds of crowds. I must admit it’s for a good reason but tourism can dilute authenticity. I need to find my place in the sun. It might take a few days but when I do I’ll plant myself for a bit. Railay wasn’t feeling like the place. At least at the moment.
Without much hesitation, after one night, I purchased a boat ticket to Koh Lanta first thing in the morning. Because of the sheer beauty of Railey I sensed my departure was premature but I really felt like moving on. I waited on the West side beach while others showed up. From there it was a wet landing for a long tail boat to be shuttled to a larger boat for Koh Lanta. The Koh Lanta ferry was packed and stacked with travelers and backpacks. The view of Railay was more impressive from the boat and I could see several other beaches aside of East and West. Again, I felt my departure was a bit too soon but I was still happy to be going. I entertained the thought of possibly returning later.
As the boat left Railey I took a seat inside by the window. The waters were calm and the ride smooth. I bought a beer from a guy walking around with a bucket full. This time the beer tasted right, I felt like my old self, the old self that’s traveled Asia in the past. With no real plan, no place to stay, and not a worry in the world I felt completely relaxed and in my element. I really enjoyed the two hour ride.
The boat dock at Koh Lanta is a racket. They expect everyone, mainly foreigners, to pay a 10 Bhat cleaning fee which certainly does not go towards cleaning. I guess the boat dock cleaning fee is a common government scam in Thailand. Everyone is funneled through a narrow exit lined with aggressive hawkers and touts. “Where you going? You need Taxi ?” I ignored the touts and cleverly got around not paying the 10 Bhat fee because the guys taking money were so overwhelmed. I figured I’d cleanse my Karma by leaving the 10 Bhat fee as part of a tip when I had lunch. Tips are not normally expected in Thailand aside of more upscale restaurants etc.
I took a sharp right out of the dock and shook the remaining touts in a couple of blocks. I found a nice peaceful restaurant built over the water and enjoyed a good curry and drink for less than $4. Over lunch I consulted my Lonely Planet guide to Thailand’s beaches and Islands and figured Klong Nin would be a good beach to start. I consulted with a couple of travel agents as to what I’d expect to pay for transportation to get there and was told 150 to 200 Bhat for a motor bike tuk tuk. It’s basically a motor bike with a covered side car.
It pays to do a little inquiring before hiring a tuk tuk as all rates are negotiable. A young Muslim woman with pink tuk tuk asked me where I was going. I told her. She said 300 Bhat. I said 150. She made a funny face and I said 175. She said it was far to go with a tuk tuk but 200. I said Ok.
Heading out of the main town of Ban Sala Dan was not very nice but at least I felt like I was in a foreign environment again. A few more miles and things looked better. A turn to the right and things looked much better. She asked where I was staying and I told her I didn’t know. She said there were many places and dropped me at the perfect spot to start my search.
To my right the beach was blocked by restaurants and hotels. Simple mid-range and budget type places with character. Pretty much what I was looking for. To the left were more hotels, shops, etc… So, I started inquiring. Just about every place had availability because the real tourist season doesn’t start until mid December. There was a better value to be had on the left side of the road but I wanted to be by the beach on the right side.
After about an hour or so I arrived at what I wanted. For 800 bhat, about $23 USD, I have a top level room on a two story building with a view, fan, a/c, shower and toilet. It’s simple, nice, clean, and just steps from a sandy beach. This is the Thailand I was expecting. Accommodation by the beach for $20 to $30. Meals for $4 to $5. An hour Massage (legitimate) on the beach for $10 to $15. Drinks for $1 to $5. Motor Bike rental, all day, $5 to $6. And, if you need anything, transportation, etc. it can be arranged by a travel agent at the hotel for as cheap you can find anywhere.
Koh Lanta is a real island with real people. The economy is tourist based but much more real and authentic than Railey. It’s also noticeably Muslim. Thailand is a Buddhist country but the Southern portion near Malaysia is largely Muslim. Many women are covered and wear a head covering with only the face exposed. The first thing I think of is how uncomfortable it must be in the tropical heat and humidity. It’s quite a contrast seeing a bikini clad European next to a local traditional Muslim woman working at a beach resort.
As for Khlong Nin beach? It’s a nice beach, not bad. I wouldn’t call it spectacular compared to some of the other places I’ve been but it’s a great place to chill. Swimming is good and the water is clean however there is a bit of a shore break at high tide so low tide is better for a dip. However, you still need to be a little mindful as the waves come in sets and break a little hard. Better to swim out beyond the breaks between sets and watch the swells. Yesterday I got pretty relaxed in the water and got hammered by a rouge wave when I wasn’t paying attention. The upside I suppose is that it totally cleaned out my sinuses. Whatever remnant of the cold I got in Burma is totally gone.
I’ve been on the move ever since leaving Inle Lake in Myanmar so today I’ll just hang out at the beach. It’s very quiet. Not many tourists. The waves are coming in pretty strong with high tide and crashing with a rhythmic cadence. The skies are overcast. They say the sun may come out later but today its doesn’t really matter as far as I'm concerned…
1 comment:
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