Something Special About The Camino...

Tonight will be the first night I haven’t slept in a tent since July 16. When I first walked into the ancient village of Lectuore I inquired at the tourist information about a place to camp. The attendant spoke ok English and recommended I stay at the Presbytere instead. He said it was located across the plaza, on the other side of the Cathedral, and pointed me in the direction.

I stepped up to a very old large heavy thick door with a trapezoid shaped knob in the middle. The sign said that the office opened at 3pm. It was 2:58. I entered with a "Bonjour" and was greeted by a woman who spoke no English. She directed me to a woman who spoke a little English. They offered a bed, dinner, and breakfast all on a donation basis for pilgrims only. My broken in hiker look with large scallop shell attached to pack made my Pilgrim status obvious. In Spain these sort of places are known as donativaos and are usually run by a local community organization, church, or, sometimes private individuals who were once Pilgrims.

Donativos can be somewhat regularly found along the Camino de Santiago in Spain but this is the first I’ve come across in France. Due to communication/language difficulties I’ve probably missed others.

Today I was the first to arrive but shortly after other familiar faces from the Camino began to show up. There is definitely a community feel to the Chemin St Jacques but much smaller than the Camino de Santiago. I haven’t met many fluent English speakers and so far I’ve only met 5 other Americans. One gite host told me last year she didn’t see any Americans but this year there have been a few. Usually they are people like myself who have some knowledge or experience with the Spanish Camino de Santiago.

I must say that I’m really enjoying the walk and France has really grown on me. I’m inspired to put some time into learning French because I like the people and can see myself spending more time in France. There are many beautiful and peaceful places here with a deep rich history.

I continue to visit every cathedral, church and chapel along the way. I must say that Catholocism has led to some extremely beautiful buildings and works of art. My favorite are the many varieties of stained glass windows. Traversing a Pilgrimage route goes without saying that there are many places of worship along the way.

I also continue to feel much more spiritually connected to the Pilgrim aspect of the Camino than I did in Spain two years ago. I’ve walked many miles in a mindset of what I call constructive contemplation and feel like the walk is strengthening me both mentally and physically. I don’t know what it is about a Pilgrimage on the Camino but I will say there’s something very special about it. At times I’ll think of the people who walked a thousand years before me. I think it’s that impression that makes it so special..