The 12th century stone carved façade above the entrance to the Conques cathedral is one of the best I’ve seen. It’s in remarkably good condition and depicts judgment day with heaven on the left and hell on the right. Saintly figures on one side display a clean and orderly outcome while demonic figures on the other side rule in torturous chaos. Ironically the entrance door into the cathedral passes right below hell. I’ve seen more impressive cathedrals but the façade is quite amazing.
Conques is a village that dates back to the 8th century and it’s extremely picturesque. The narrow streets are paved with stone and all of the buildings look like their right out of a fairy tale. The town is drenched in character. The cathedral and its abbey are run by monks wearing traditional garb. The abbey offers accommodation for the night but has limited space and accepts reservations. I thought it would be a good experience to try and stay there but wasn't able to get in. Instead I headed to a nearby campground for the night.
Most every night I camp at a local established campground. Usually I’ll pay between 4 and 8 Euros ($5 - $10). Some of the Gites on the Camino, which are hostel like accommodations, offer camping as well. It’s pretty easy to get a shower every night so walking through France is quite civilized. Some campgrounds even have a pool. The water is usually freezing cold but I always get in because cold water is great for relieving muscle inflammation.
My knee has returned back to normal so it’s become a non issue as I thought it would be. The “Beast”, my pack, continues to give me problems but I’m managing ok. I’ve decided it just doesn’t fit me right. When I get back to the USA I’ll take advantage of the REI 100% satisfaction guarantee. I’m not satisfied.
I haven’t written much about the ancient buildings, churches, chapels and cathedrals along the way but the Camino from Lepuy to St Jean Pied port is littered with them. After seeing so many it can be easy to overlook what many have to offer. I stop at everyone to have a good look around. Many have statues, stained glass, or paintings of St James. As some may recall from my Camino walk across Spain I explained the traditional reason people walk the Camino is to pay their respects St James at Cathedral in Santiago Spain where his believed remains are interred.
Conques was and is still a significant stop on the way to Santiago...
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