Psiloritis - Mt Timios Stavros

Psiloritis is more or less a large mountain massif in the middle of Crete that comprises more than one peak. The highest, Timios Stavros, is the tallest point on the island at around 8,200 feet. I like visiting the high points on every Island I visit. Some have nice trails, others have no trail, and a few have a road up to a view point or radio tower. To get to the top of Psiloritis it’s an honest to goodness hike on rugged trials.

There are number of hiking routes. One is fairly direct and starts from a ski area parking lot about 2,800 ft below the summit and is a straight forward grunt to the top. Another route begins at Nida Plateau which is really a valley at about 4,500 ft. The route skirts around the south of the massif while ascending a couple of gullies to the eastern ridge. The route then swings around to the north side for an ascending traverse west to the summit. It’s a much more interesting hike that takes in more of the area. The route is very well marked and part of a hiking trail known as the E20. It’s about a 20km round trip which for me is a perfect distance for a full day hike.

I got an early start and left the trailhead around 7 am. The temperature was very nice and with the elevation heat was never an issue for me. The first thing I noticed were the herds of goats and sheep everywhere. Many were wearing bells so I could hear the clanking all over in the distance. I also heard a couple of barking dogs which kept me aware as I didn’t want to surprise or run into one too close. Some dogs are very protective of the heard and I got a little rattled on the drive up when a large German Shepard ran right out in front of me. Fortunately I saw it in time to swerve away. I nearly hit it and it did not look like a friendly dog.

The trail, although rugged, was well marked and easy to follow. I had a good map as well. I didn’t see anyone until about an hour into it. I saw three young guys get dropped off by a truck that had ascended to the end of a four wheel drive road. I waved to them and we met. One of the guys spoke very limited English but said he had a herd up high on the mountain. I showed him on my map where I was going and he told me to follow them. I walked with them for a little while but the trail was easy to follow and I couldn’t figure out if they were going to the top or to the herd. I wasn’t sure and was hiking a little faster so I moved on.

I crossed a couple of good sized patches of snow which contrasted the heat I felt while hiking near the sea. The weather was perfect and I was moving pretty quickly. Once I reached the east ridge the view really opened up and I could see the highest summit in the distance with a stone chapel built on top. I passed the intersection with the trail from the ski area parking lot and could see a group below ascending. As I neared the summit the winds really picked up but I found reprieve on the south side of the stone chapel. Needless to say the 360 degree view was splendid. I rested for a little while.

It wasn’t until I headed down that I saw the group of three young guys again. They were indeed heading to the summit and were very close. I also ran into the group that had ascended via the other route. Form that point on I only saw one other person and plenty of sheep and goats before arriving back at my car.

The one other person was a shepherd who spoke good English and did not look Greek at all. He was quick to tell me he was from Pakistan. I told him I from Texas. I’ve more or less quit telling people I’m from America or the United States. It’s too controversial. Saying your from Texas comes across better. Everyone has heard of Texas and the first thing they think of is cowboys and horses. Who doesn’t like cowboys and horses?

Anyway, I was having a nice chat with the Pakastani shepherd until he started talking about how tourists are rich and how the Greeks take advantage of the tourist. I knew he was leading into something. He then asked me if I had a phone card so he could call his family. Well, I honestly have no phone card. I’m not even traveling with a phone. With the request flashbacks of Asian touts and cons came to mind which made me feel like I needed to hike on. So I did. About a mile down the trail I thought about it and sort of wished I’d given the guy a little money. I’m sure he’s not being paid well and he struck me as kind of lonely. I think there was a good chance his request was sincere but it’s hard to tell sometimes. I was the only person he had seen all day.

Near the end of the hike I added a little side trip to a cave that is somehow affiliated with Zeus. It seems like just about every cave in Greece has some kind of Zeus connection and is very important. What I found was an abandoned ticket booth, man made steps and a viewing area at the large open entrance. It looked like at some point in time they tried to make it a tourist attraction but it didn’t take off. The taverna at the start of the hike was abandoned as well.

A reasonably fit hiker like myself can make it up to top of Timios Stavros in around 3 hours. It takes about about the same amount for coming down. Add in some breaks, time at top, and a chat with a shepherd and you have a full day.

In the end it was an awesome hike and a nice way to wrap up my time on Crete. Back at the car I coasted down to Hearklion. It was time to turn in the Fiat Seicento S.