Gavdos Update

I’ve quickly settled into a routine on Gavdos. I start the day about mid morning and hike for 3 or 4 hours then go for a swim. I haven’t seen a single cloud on the island since I arrived. Just hot blue sunny skies. With the heat and sun I walk slow and take my time traversing a valley or ridge down to one of a number of beaches only reachable by foot or boat.

Yesterday I discovered the area where most people go to camp by the beach. Tents compete for shade amidst small cedar and juniper trees. This is also a variety of clever structures assembled out of driftwood, rocks, and whatever may have washed up on shore. A community of more or less beach hippies in the buff assemble for the summer to enjoy mellow good times. Not really my scene but I get the appeal.

As I’ve gotten older my travel interests have evolved. As a young lad I was more inclined to run off from one place then another, filling my time with as much variety as possible. Now when I find a place I like, and I feel as though there’s enough to keep my interest for awhile, I stay. I initially planned on four nights on Gavdos but now I don’t see any real reason not to stay six. I know I can get in a couple of more hikes.

Lily has proven to be a bit of a mystery. Whenever I ask locals about her they say they know her but that’s about as far as I get. Not sure what the deal is but no one is interested whatsoever in helping me get in contact with her. I get the impression it might be a privacy thing. Who's this stranger asking about Lily? Also, the island is almost entirely Greek, locals and tourists. Basic English is fine for getting around but easy conversation is hard to find. Not being able to converse easily and candidly imposes limitations. At this point it might be best just to let it be. I really don’t know anything about Lily or her role in the community. Probably best to just let it ride. However, I do think I know what village she lives in and that she drives a blue van.

With that said I must confess that I really don’t feel a connection with the local people. As I just said language issues are limiting. However, I really do like how the Island feels. It does have a nice vibe. Sometimes I like visiting the end of a road for awhile but I couldn’t see myself living in a small and isolated place such as Gavdos. I prefer the variety afforded by living in a city and an element of anonymity that can be preserved by being lost in a crowd.

Although Gavdos is a paradise of sorts not all is perfect here. Last night a fly flew in my beer. A bottled beer. And it could not be extracted. The bed in my accommodation is not very good. The mini fridge does not work. The island coffee leaves a lot to be desired. I ordered a cappuccino and got a bitter shot of espresso with cold whipped cream on top. And, last night’s sunset was obscured by some sort of haze. African dust?

As far as the rental car goes it’s working out fine but the 20 Euro a day is starting to add up. Right before I left Paleochora the Welshman, whose phone I borrowed, said the rental car guy, George, called him the next day wondering where I was. The Welshman told George what I had already told George the day before. The Welshman said George wasn’t worked up or anything and was easy with whatever I was doing. Their conversation ended with laughs. I think he just wanted a firm date on when the car would be back so he could make if available for booking. I’ll need to contact George tomorrow. I’m going to need a little more time.