Durmitor

The place was legit but I had a bad feeling. Not sure why I said I’d stay two nights as I handed him payment. No sooner than I gave him money I changed my mind but the guy had already run off. I assumed he was getting the change he owed me. Was he the owner or some guy posing as the owner? Regardless, no way was I staying. I guess it was the long bus trip and gloomy weather that had me not thinking clearly but my gut feeling was loud and clear.

I waited and looked for the guy but he had disappeared. I thought I may had just been scammed $50 euros. I waited a little longer. I then decided to consult with the accommodation across the street. The woman spoke ok English. I told her what happened. She said the man was shit. A gentleman overhearing my conversation with the woman told me to go to the police and I would get my money back. They didn’t want to get involved.

I went to the police station. The only person there was an older officer in another room with his back to the entrance sitting in a chair leaning against a wall. I walked up to a counter with a large clear glass barrier. I said hello rather loudly. I said it a few more times louder. The officer appeared to be deep asleep. I could not get his attention. He was out. I started to reconsider whether or not I wanted to get the police involved. The officer probably didn’t speak English. So, I left and went back to the to see if I could find the guy.

I finally found him and communicated I didn’t want to stay and wanted my money back. He refused to give it to me. We exchanged a few confused words not understanding each other very well due to language issues but he knew I wanted my money back. Finally, I just told him I was going to the Police and stormed off. I didn’t get far before he toned down and called me back. He handed me my 50 Euros. I walked off as he said something derogatory in his native language.

It was a slow 4+ hour ride in a packed bus to Zabljak, the town at the entrance of Durmitor National park. The altitude is higher, the air cooler, and the atmosphere is a world apart from the Adriatic cost. The economy is seasonal. Skiing in the winter. Hiking in the summer. Both seasons are a short 3 months.

The mountains and all around Zablijak are quite nice but I don’t much care for the town. The town itself is not that pretty. It’s a small mixed up stew of old and new. The old being run down concrete buildings with graffiti. The new being the sparkly shiny hotel in the center. About the only charm is as you leave town center towards Dumitor National Park where there are some chalet type homes with rooms and apartments for rent. That’s where I’m at. I’ve got a room in house. I am on the top floor of a home that is built out to accommodate guests with shared common area and bathroom. It’s run by a grandmother whose tow daughters come up from the city on weekends. The place has a good homey feel. I’m paying $15 Euro a night for 2 nights because I’m an American tourist. An Eastern European would pay $10 Euro. The family is very nice and the two daughters speak English. It’s an authentic experience for a couple of nights and safely away from the guy I had the run in with.

Last night it hailed, rained, and thundered. This morning didn’t look good but it cleared a little before clouding up, raining, and clearing again. I started off about 8:30 am to see what I could make of the day and met up with an older British couple heading up to the park for a hike. I was doing the same so we walked together for the day. Both are very fit. I thought the guy was around 62 but his actually age is 72. Both are runners.

We wound up making good use of the day as I think we picked the perfect walk for shaky weather. The hike started from a lake and went up to a valley just above treeline and a Shepherd's hut. The shepherd had canned beer for sale for 2 euro. There’s a broad open view of the valley and the clouds had cleared somewhat for the time being so we got some good photos. It was very windy and kind of cold so we found a nice spot behind a hikers shelter for a break. After that we retraced our steps back to the lake and walked the trail around the lake. All things considered it made for a nice day.

Interestingly enough I think one day of hiking here is all I want to do. Mainly because the weather is not that great and it’s still little early in the season, due to last winters heavy snow, to do some of the higher more interesting hikes. I was really enjoying being by the coast so tomorrow I’m going to head back towards the Adriatic sea. Sometimes you never before a trip as to exactly how you will want to spend your time. I am more in the mood for warm weather, consistent sun, and salt water that fickle mountain weather. Nonetheless I needed to check it out.