Tour Du Mont Blanc - Negoitating Weather & Ladders

Although we considered taking a little time off the Tour Du Mont Blanc in Champex we found ourselves caught up in the rhythm of a daily hiking routine. The terrain from Champex over Bovine to Col Forclaz did not look bad for foul weather so we pressed on.

As everyday on the Tour Du Mont Blanc the day started with a grinding climb. Only on this day it was a steep climb up to a socked in mountain side with cold rain mixed sleet. We ducked into the refuge at Bovine before continuing to the Col de la Forclaz where the trail meets a road meets with a nice Swiss lodge. Once again we stopped. This time we indulged in some fine fresh made Strawberry marzipan. Don’t ask what we paid but it was extremely good. From the Col we shuffled down muddy trail to the villages of Trient and Peuty past a church painted pink.

With the high cost of Swiss accommodation it was a village campsite in Peuty for the night. We opted to spend our money on overpriced beer and wine while staying warm and dry in local village hotel bar for the evening.

July 10

More rain and cloud with fresh snow down to around 1800 meters. The official route would take us up high for a long ridge walk. The bad weather variant route would take us over a col and down to the village of La Tour. Either way we were headed back to the Chamonix Valley where we started.

Again, another morning climb. Only this time we would see the worst conditions yet. As expect we hiked up to the snow line where wet snow thickened as we ascended and the wind picked up. By time we got to the top at Col de Balme it was downright miserable textbook hypothermia weather. It was an easy decision to take the variant instead of heading onward and upward for an exposed 3 hour hike along ridgeline before descending. We paused at hut situated on top of the col for coffee served via a quirky old lady seemingly out of place.

We descended directly down from the col into a ski area and quickly escaped the wind negotiating very muddy trails as everyone seemed to have the same idea to avoid the exposed ridge. It didn’t take long to reach Le Tour and Montroc where the bad weather variant re-joined the official route. With more nasty weather forecast and our arrival back into the Chamonix valley we adjusted our game plan.

At the bottom of the valley there is a very pleasant forest walk known as the Petite Balcony. Essentially all we really needed to do to complete a full hiking route around Mont Blanc was to follow the valley trail to Les Houches where we started. We both liked the idea of hiking on, completing the loop, then day hiking the remaining 15 miles or so of the official route during the next day or two as weather permitted. It just made sense.

From Montroc we followed Le Petite Balcony south to Chamonix where we crossed the river and continued on to Les Houches via Le Petite Balcony north. In Chamonix we had tourist information call and reserve two beds at the hostel (Gite) in Les Houches for the night.

It was a little bittersweet finishing the way we did but it was the sensible and smart thing to do.

July 11

I didn’t really sleep all that well at the hostel as I’ve gotten so use to camping in the rain in a tent. It’s funny how one adjusts and gets comfortable in different situations. A tent affords an element of privacy that a room shared with strangers doesn’t.

In the early morning light I could see a little blue sky. Deb and I rallied to take advantage of a possible short break in the weather. We caught the train from Les Houches to Montroc and got back on the official route to see if we could complete it in a day with light day packs.

The hiking above Montroc gets pretty interesting as steep trail runs into sections of vertical ladders to give access to the side of a high ridge known as the Grand Balcony. On a clear day the word, “Outrageous”, does not do the view justice. With clouds and rain blowing in and out we caught occasional views with hopeful moments for sun.

By time we got to La Flegere we met up with one of several ski trams that offer access to hiking in the summer from Chamonix. We debated going down since the clouds were building and thickening again. I felt like carrying on. Deb didn’t see a reason to because there would be no views. Deb chose to go down. I chose to go on to the next lift at Planpraz. By time I reached Planpraz, a few kilometers later, the clouds were so thick that it was hard to find the lift. From Planpraz it’s a about a 4 to 5 hour hike to complete the official route but the day was getting a little late and things were not getting better. I descended to Chamonix via a roundtrip ticket on the Gondola. To be continued in a day or two.

Well, it’s Saturday, July 12. I camped last night at the saturated village campground in Les Houches where it rained most the night. I awoke with a tent covered with slugs. Deb stayed another night at the hostel and we met up in the morning at a café bar where we have been for the last two and a half hours. After 9 days of continuous hiking we are taking an official rest day. Tomorrow morning is supposed to be nice for a little while before rains set in again in the afternoon. The plan is to catch the lift early to where we left off and finish the final bit by early afternoon. In a couple of days we will be parting ways and leave the Chamonix valley regardless. Hopefully for warm sunny summer weather!