I couldn’t
resist the two day trip to Jordon and Petra via the Abraham Hostel Tours in
Jerusalem. I’m generally not one for group excursions but sometimes it just
makes sense depending on what you want to do and what country you are traveling
in. At times border crossings, transportation issues, language difficulties,
cultural misunderstandings and the hassle factor can negate any chance of
saving money by doing it on your own. Everything can take considerably more
time to do. Jordon, considered safe, still poses some security risks in my
opinion.
So, I booked
the trip and showed up for the bus with about 30 others at 7 am. Our first
hurdle was the Israeli border into Jordon. As a group we were left up to own
devices, without a guide, to check out
of Israel. Only those departing the country are allowed into the immigration
building. There was a little confusion at first but we all figured it out and
made it through after a bit of time. Upon reaching the Jordanian side we were
met by a guide who led us through process. Three of us had been left off the
group manifest which created some issues but our guide took care of it. All in
all the he border process was kind of a lengthy hassle but not too bad. We
rolled into Jordan with guide, an armed policeman assigned to the group for the
whole time, and a very skilled bus driver.
From
Jerusalem we had crossed through the Palestinian West Bank into Jordon. The
first couple of border villages on the Jordanian side were poor, rough, and
third world dodgy. A pack of young school boys were walking down the street as
if they were going to block the bus. As we reached them they parted. Some
appeared to give a friendly wave while others spit and threw things at the bus and/or
displayed vulgar hand signals. Some of the kids were quite young which was
disturbing to say the least. My first impression of the people of Jordon was
not good. Fortunately, it was only at the border villages that I noticed such
behavior. The rest of the time the Jordanian people seemed fine. The Bedouin
tribes people I was to meet were exceptionally hospitable and friendly. Our guide
was very nice and professional.
t was a
long climb out of the Jordon valley which is 1300 feet below sea level. The
road is pretty decent but steep and narrow in sections. We ascended up through
olive groves interspersed with oak trees and open views. I found it to be really
beautiful country. Our first stop was Jerash and lunch before visiting the Roman ruins of Old Jerash with it’s Roman racetrack, arched gate, roads and amphitheaters. Our guide moved us through the fairly extensive complex at a nice pace. From there it was on to Amman, Jordan’s major city where we visited the Citadel which is an ancient Roman fort set atop a mount in the middle of it all. The views of the city are fantastic. With the day getting late we pressed on to Petra where stayed in tents at a Bedouin tourist camp. We arrived at the desert camp around 11 pm. It backed up to a rock face lit up by numerous lights. We were served Bedouin tea around a fire with traditional live music before a nice dinner. The camp atmosphere was very pleasant. It would have been nice to have arrived earlier to enjoy it more. Unfortunately we had lost quite a bit of time at the border which set us behind schedule.
The Crown
Jewel of Jordan is the Roman ruins of Petra and my main reason for wanting to
visit Jordan. Petra is a Roman city built into red sandstone cliffs. The
complex is suspected of being started could as early as 300 B.C. and consists
of numerous caves and impressive facades. One site in particular was used in an
Indiana Jones movie.
We got a nice
early start for Petra which gave us a good 6 hours to hike around. We were free
to take off on our own, as I did, or you could follow the guide. Most visitors
travel a little over a mile via foot, camel, horse, or cart to see the most
famous site, “The Treasury”, as seen in the Indians Jones Movie and a not much
further beyond. From where most turn around you can continue another mile or so
uphill to a site known as, “The Monastery”. Beyond that you can continue up a
little further to a couple of high points atop a ridge to get some spectacular
views. I’d say 6 hours is a minimum but a good amount of time to check things
out.
Petra
extends more or less through a red sandstone canyon with swaths of darker reds turned
brown along with swirls of gray that look like marble from a distance. Local Bedouin
tribe’s people set up rustic little coffee, tea, and souvenir shops all along
the way that adds to the atmosphere.
Petra is a
designated Unesco World Heritage Site which draws the tourist but it appears to
be managed well. Despite large numbers of visitors the place remains
spectacular and it really doesn’t detract from the experience too much if you
are willing to walk a little further than most. I enjoyed it greatly and
consider it to be one of the coolest sites I’ve been to.
From Petra
it was a long trip back to Jerusalem. Checking out of Jordon was pretty easy.
Getting back into Israel was a mess. First we passed through several
checkpoints and gates before reaching immigration. Two large busses with mostly
Arab Muslims, most who didn’t know how to stand in line, were challenging each
other for the only open window. Another bus showed up behind us. Eventually the
Israelis opened two more windows for a total of three. As I neared the window a
couple of guys butted right in front of
me and threw their passports on the counter I immediately spoke up and
the Immigration officer caught what was going on thus scolding them. A couple
of other guys walked up and did the same thing but I noticed they had official
looking Palestinian Territory passports. I sensed they were government
officials so I didn’t say anything. Eventually I made it to the counter and
thus began the questioning but not too bad.
From there
it was a security check. Poorly managed and understaffed, however, everything
looked like it was being checked. I had some problems getting passed the brash
guard but cooperated fully as we determined the metal lace loops on my boots
were setting off the metal detector. I then proceeded through 2 more passport
checks. One officer seemed genuinely interested in my travels with my colorful
passport stamps as he would like to do the same. Finally, out the door to a bus
that was waiting for us. Everyone made it through except for 3 who were being
detained. The bus left without them. Two being detained were a Canadian couple
with Pakistani Muslim last names. They were an extremely nice couple who I had
talked with earlier in the day. The husband is a prominent Oncologist from Toronto,
however, profiling as practiced by Israeli immigration, was not in their favor.
Our guide on the Israeli side said it was normal for some people in the group
to be detained at the crossing. We were all given transportation vouchers
beforehand just in case.
Eventually
we made it back to the Hostel after a jam packed 2 day blitz through Jordan.
With exit and entry taxes plus the price of the trip it wasn’t cheap but worth
every penny. It seemed like everyone felt the same, however, not sure I can
speak for those detained at the border.
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