After 6 days of basing myself out of Hailey, Idaho I had enough of the forest fire smoke that's filling up the state. I started looking at my options and discovered I was a reasonable days drive from Mammoth Lakes, California and the Sierra Mountains. With forest fires going crazy in the Rockies I figured I could find clear air and blue skies in California. Many thanks to my friend Dan for letting me stay at his home while checking out the Sun Valley region.
I first passed a sign stating no gas for 137 miles then after driving through a small town I saw another sign for no gas 167 miles. Nevada is full of a whole lot of nothing except for desert and arid mountains. On the few paved highways that exist you can go a long way between meeting another car. It makes for easy driving on two lane roads. In a little over 10 hours I rolled into Mammoth.
I have some good memories of Mammoth. I lived in the relatively isolated ski town for two years in the second half of the 1990's. The summers were the high point but the winters were pretty good with huge amounts of snow. Before living in Mammoth I spent time in the area on several occasions visiting.
I was first introduced to town in 1989 while working for a YMCA camp in the San Bernadino Mountains of Southern California. The Y maintains and keeps a base camp right outside of Mammoth consisting of a few old buildings with rustic amenities for Los Angeles area YMCA groups to use. The director of the camp I worked at had ties to the Mammoth camp so he brought me up for a few days and got me acquainted with the area. Something about the place really grabbed me.
I returned to Mammoth in 1993 and introduced myself to the director of the base camp. We immediately hit it off and became quick friends. His name was Jim. The following year I worked as a Wilderness Ranger in the Mt. Whitney district not too far from Mammoth. Jim was back for another season so Mammoth kind of became a place for me to hang out on some of my days off. I'd sleep in my van. During the day I'd hang out with Jim and his girlfriend pitching horseshoes, hiking around etc. If there wasn't a camp group we would drink a few beers. Again, the place really grabbed me.
It's been 14 years since I've spent time in Mammoth. I can't believe its been so long. I arrived a little later in the afternoon yesterday so I quickly pitched camp in a Forest Service campground in town. From there I drove up to the Y camp. As I entered the grounds everything appeared just like it was the first time I saw it in '89. I didn't see any camp groups but I did notice a guy with three dogs looking at me disapprovingly. I drove up to him and one of the dogs jumped up at my open window scratching the door. I explained who I was and the guy responded inhospitably with and Australian accent. He didn't seem to know anything and informed me the director was off for a few days because no camp groups were scheduled. I asked him if I could look around. He said it was OK.
Sometimes I'll feel a strong impression or vibe about a location. As I stared at the old buildings, outdoor showers, group campfire ring, porcelain YMCA sign and a stack of canoes I suddenly remembered all of the good times I had had there just like it was yesterday. It was as if I was remembering something special and once known that has somehow been lost or forgotten. The feeling was very strong and I began to feel emotion almost to tears. It was quite strange for me. A deep connection of sorts. I stood for awhile and listened to the wind blowing through the trees and breathed in clean fresh air with a scent unique to the eastern Sierra. I then collected myself and drove off disappointed I hadn't met the current director instead of the guy with the three dogs. Maybe he would have recognized a name and/or would have invited me to camp on the premises like past directors. I might have made a new friend but on the other hand things change, people move on, and names are forgotten.
From the camp I went to the old pizza joint where I use mix cheap beer with cheap pizza slices while chatting it up with the bar tender. Well, the place has been remodeled, the prices raised, and the service mediocre. No longer frequented by locals the atmosphere was completely different. I left without ordering anything. From there I drove up to the Hotel I use to work at on the ski mountain. It had been remodeled. Although the A framed bar still offers a grand view I passed on the $6.75 draft and was a bit turned off by the uppity uppityness of changes.
Actually, Mammoth is looking a lot better these days. Things have really been cleaned up. When I lived here it was kind of dumpy and full of shoddily built somewhat tacky condos but there was charm in that. Intrawest, a resort development company, came in just as I was leaving and to their credit have done a nice job. For better or for worse depends on how you look at it.
So, after the long drive and feeling a bit out of sorts I searched out a bar/restaurant with a local feel. My internal sonar led me to he Outlaw Saloon where two friendly world traveling outdoor enthusiast gals were running things. Two beers and two slices of pizza I was feeling much better. I spent the evening swapping stories with Ashley about India and about China with Lindsey.
This morning I went for a 6 mile run followed by a 10 mile hike. On a whim I picked up a permit from the forest service office to embark on a 4 to 5 backpack. I bought food and got my stuff together and am prepared to leave tomorrow morning unless I change my mind at the last minute. I only have one week left until I need to be back in Denver. I wish I had more time for Mammoth and the Sierra's. The region still holds a special appeal to me. In a way I kind of wish I'd gotten here a little sooner this summer. I guess I was distracted by the Alaska idea. Anyway, I feel like I'm on the right track and am having a good time.
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