August 31, 2010
Towards The Pyreness - Chemin St Jacques
As I walked out of the village of La Romieu I noticed it was getting kind of warm but I was having a good day. All morning my spirits were high and I was happy to have had a chance to the visit 14th century Collegiale (church) which I wasn't sure was going to be open or not.
The landscape,comprised of hilly shallow ridges amidst agriculturally rich land, offers fine wide open views. In the distance I could see a village here and there. All with a church steeple designating the center.
Later that day I arrived in the village of Condom after covering 35 km (22 miles) in temps that peaked around 100 degrees fahrenheit. I can honestly say it really didn't feel bad at all. It's amazing how much the body can adjust as ones physical condition improves. I'm now feeling pretty darned strong and the pack really isn't bothering near as much as it was earlier in the trip. Walking 15 to 20 miles a day feels very reasonable.
Yesterday I got a late start out of Air sur l'Adour and camped in the village of Arzacq Arraziguet. For 3 Euros I pitched my tent in a field behind a Gite with access to a nearby shower and kitchen. This morning I awoke to a crisp view of the Pyrenees and took a photo from my tent (photo at top of post).
I've been moving along a bit quicker than expected and should arrive at my destination of St Jean Pied port either on Friday or Saturday. Saturday will mark exactly 4 weeks since my departure from Le Puy.
August 28, 2010
I Don't Know What Your Saying But I Understand
I hardly speak French and understand very little, however, there are many times when I have a good idea what someone is saying. It’s a strange kind of phenomenon but after I spend some time in a place where I don’t know the language I get a more intuitive sense of what a person is trying to communicate.
Often I’ll meet someone and they will strike up a conversation. I let them know I that I speak very little French but they continue talking with an occasional English word thrown in. This has happened a number of times and the conversation may go on for a while. In the end I won’t really understand much at all but somehow I’ll learn they have 3 kids, one who is a chef, and a relative who moved to Montana 20 years ago to mine copper and just came back to France for the first time. Other times I’ll be walking along the Camino and a local will fill me in on info as to where to get water, coffee, or food and I'll understand even though everything they said was said in French.
Naturally I’m not able to hold a conversation of any depth, if at all, and some days I don’t know what anyone is saying about anything. However, sometimes I’m quite surprised at how well I grasp what is being said.
As far as studying the language I’m like most English speakers which means I’m pretty bad about it. The downside to speaking English is that almost everywhere you go there’s going to be someone who knows enough English for you to get by on. English is the universal international language and as an English speaker it’s very easy to be LAZY about learning a foreign language.
Europeans are by far the best about learning other languages and they are generally very good at it. A Dutch person will tell you they have no choice but to learn English, a German will tell you it’s necessary for business, and a French person is irritated by the whole English thing but reluctantly understands the value in it.
What’s really a shame about not knowing the local language is that it’s nearly impossible to connect on anything more than a superficial level and you miss out really getting to know people of a different culture. On the other hand people do seem to be a little friendlier and gentler with one another when they don’t s peak the same language. Smiles and thank yous go along way.
Often I’ll meet someone and they will strike up a conversation. I let them know I that I speak very little French but they continue talking with an occasional English word thrown in. This has happened a number of times and the conversation may go on for a while. In the end I won’t really understand much at all but somehow I’ll learn they have 3 kids, one who is a chef, and a relative who moved to Montana 20 years ago to mine copper and just came back to France for the first time. Other times I’ll be walking along the Camino and a local will fill me in on info as to where to get water, coffee, or food and I'll understand even though everything they said was said in French.
Naturally I’m not able to hold a conversation of any depth, if at all, and some days I don’t know what anyone is saying about anything. However, sometimes I’m quite surprised at how well I grasp what is being said.
As far as studying the language I’m like most English speakers which means I’m pretty bad about it. The downside to speaking English is that almost everywhere you go there’s going to be someone who knows enough English for you to get by on. English is the universal international language and as an English speaker it’s very easy to be LAZY about learning a foreign language.
Europeans are by far the best about learning other languages and they are generally very good at it. A Dutch person will tell you they have no choice but to learn English, a German will tell you it’s necessary for business, and a French person is irritated by the whole English thing but reluctantly understands the value in it.
What’s really a shame about not knowing the local language is that it’s nearly impossible to connect on anything more than a superficial level and you miss out really getting to know people of a different culture. On the other hand people do seem to be a little friendlier and gentler with one another when they don’t s peak the same language. Smiles and thank yous go along way.
August 27, 2010
August 25, 2010
Something Special About The Camino...
Tonight will be the first night I haven’t slept in a tent since July 16. When I first walked into the ancient village of Lectuore I inquired at the tourist information about a place to camp. The attendant spoke ok English and recommended I stay at the Presbytere instead. He said it was located across the plaza, on the other side of the Cathedral, and pointed me in the direction.
I stepped up to a very old large heavy thick door with a trapezoid shaped knob in the middle. The sign said that the office opened at 3pm. It was 2:58. I entered with a "Bonjour" and was greeted by a woman who spoke no English. She directed me to a woman who spoke a little English. They offered a bed, dinner, and breakfast all on a donation basis for pilgrims only. My broken in hiker look with large scallop shell attached to pack made my Pilgrim status obvious. In Spain these sort of places are known as donativaos and are usually run by a local community organization, church, or, sometimes private individuals who were once Pilgrims.
Donativos can be somewhat regularly found along the Camino de Santiago in Spain but this is the first I’ve come across in France. Due to communication/language difficulties I’ve probably missed others.
Today I was the first to arrive but shortly after other familiar faces from the Camino began to show up. There is definitely a community feel to the Chemin St Jacques but much smaller than the Camino de Santiago. I haven’t met many fluent English speakers and so far I’ve only met 5 other Americans. One gite host told me last year she didn’t see any Americans but this year there have been a few. Usually they are people like myself who have some knowledge or experience with the Spanish Camino de Santiago.
I must say that I’m really enjoying the walk and France has really grown on me. I’m inspired to put some time into learning French because I like the people and can see myself spending more time in France. There are many beautiful and peaceful places here with a deep rich history.
I continue to visit every cathedral, church and chapel along the way. I must say that Catholocism has led to some extremely beautiful buildings and works of art. My favorite are the many varieties of stained glass windows. Traversing a Pilgrimage route goes without saying that there are many places of worship along the way.
I also continue to feel much more spiritually connected to the Pilgrim aspect of the Camino than I did in Spain two years ago. I’ve walked many miles in a mindset of what I call constructive contemplation and feel like the walk is strengthening me both mentally and physically. I don’t know what it is about a Pilgrimage on the Camino but I will say there’s something very special about it. At times I’ll think of the people who walked a thousand years before me. I think it’s that impression that makes it so special..
August 23, 2010
Walking Across France on 20 Euros a Day...
Sunday, August 22
Tomorrow it’s an easy 15 km to Mossiac where I’ll arrive by lunch time and relax the rest of the day. After a little over 2 weeks on the Camino St. Jacques I’m thoroughly broken in and settled into the walking life. My pack may still be burdensome but I’m stronger and managing fine while I cover 15 to 20 miles daily.
The landscape has changed once again as I’ve left higher grounds for a lower more fertile agricultural region. Everything seems to be growing here from nuts to seeds to fruits to veggies. It has also been quite hot. The last two days have been in the 90’s (Fahrenheit) but my good ol’ Houston, Texas up-bringing makes me well suited to handle it thanks to the humidity not being too bad.
When I first started this trip I noticed I wasn’t spending more than 20 Euros ($25-$30 USD - depending on current exchange rate)a day. I then decided to see if I could stick with a 20 Euro a day budget. For the past two weeks I’ve done it and done it well. It's required me to carry a tent, camp every night at a campground or gite (hostel like accommodation) and cook most of my meals which I had planned to do anyway. I simply pull out a 20 Euro note in the morning and if I have anything left over from the previous day I throw it in. Simple as that.
One of the best bargains I’ve found while walking in France have been the Gite d’etapes. They are hostel like accommodations with shared rooms and facilities but often there's a kitchen and sometimes a swimming pool. The only catch is that you have to arrive by foot or bike. Camping is usually around 6 Euros and sleeping on a bed inside is around 12 Euros. If you want dinner that’s usually another 12 Euros and breakfast is around 5 Euros. As you can see I save the most money by doing my own food. While camping I'm allowed to use all of the facilities. Not all gites offer camping but many will often times allow camping in the back garden or something like that if you ask.
Obviously camping makes staying at a gite very cheap as long as one prepares their own food. Tonight I’m camped at a very nice rural gite on the grounds of an orchard. I’m the only person here. I actually feel kind of funny having not paid for a bed because I have the run of the place but since I had an 8 Euro feast for lunch I’m camped just out the door.
After a hot days walk I arrived at the gite, went for a swim in the pool, did laundry, cooked some food and had a beer. I still have money left over for tomorrow. As I paddled around the pool and stared across and orchard, all on my 20 euro a day budget, I thought to myself, “I must be doing something right”.
August 17, 2010
Camped In Figeac
I'm currently camped in Figeac for the night. The trip is going well as I've settled into the life of a long distance walker/Camino Pilgrim. Just updating the blog a bit and have plenty to write about but internet access has been a bit challenging at times. Also, I've been taking my time during the day to enjoy the sites and take in the scenery so by evening I'm a little tired to write. Below you can see a few photos I've taken along the way. You really can't go wrong with traveling through the French countryside and walking is the best way to see it.....
Conques - On The Camino - France
The 12th century stone carved façade above the entrance to the Conques cathedral is one of the best I’ve seen. It’s in remarkably good condition and depicts judgment day with heaven on the left and hell on the right. Saintly figures on one side display a clean and orderly outcome while demonic figures on the other side rule in torturous chaos. Ironically the entrance door into the cathedral passes right below hell. I’ve seen more impressive cathedrals but the façade is quite amazing.
Conques is a village that dates back to the 8th century and it’s extremely picturesque. The narrow streets are paved with stone and all of the buildings look like their right out of a fairy tale. The town is drenched in character. The cathedral and its abbey are run by monks wearing traditional garb. The abbey offers accommodation for the night but has limited space and accepts reservations. I thought it would be a good experience to try and stay there but wasn't able to get in. Instead I headed to a nearby campground for the night.
Most every night I camp at a local established campground. Usually I’ll pay between 4 and 8 Euros ($5 - $10). Some of the Gites on the Camino, which are hostel like accommodations, offer camping as well. It’s pretty easy to get a shower every night so walking through France is quite civilized. Some campgrounds even have a pool. The water is usually freezing cold but I always get in because cold water is great for relieving muscle inflammation.
My knee has returned back to normal so it’s become a non issue as I thought it would be. The “Beast”, my pack, continues to give me problems but I’m managing ok. I’ve decided it just doesn’t fit me right. When I get back to the USA I’ll take advantage of the REI 100% satisfaction guarantee. I’m not satisfied.
I haven’t written much about the ancient buildings, churches, chapels and cathedrals along the way but the Camino from Lepuy to St Jean Pied port is littered with them. After seeing so many it can be easy to overlook what many have to offer. I stop at everyone to have a good look around. Many have statues, stained glass, or paintings of St James. As some may recall from my Camino walk across Spain I explained the traditional reason people walk the Camino is to pay their respects St James at Cathedral in Santiago Spain where his believed remains are interred.
Conques was and is still a significant stop on the way to Santiago...
August 15, 2010
No Kneed To Worry....
Saturday, August 14….
Friday I walked from St. Chely d’ Aburac to Espalion and today, Saturday, I walked from Espalion to Golinhac. The area I’m passing through now is comprised of long broad mostly open ridges with green forested valleys. The path generally follows near the top of a ridge but regularly dips down as it passes through one charming village to the next. Tonight I’m camped at a small municipal campground in the quiet ridge top village of Golinhac with expansive views.
The only downside to camping in a quaint small village in France is that most have an ancient church with a bell, if not two bells, and a clock. In France the bell goes off right before the hour to let you know that it’s getting ready to announce the hour. A few moments later it rings for the hour. This goes on 24 hours a day. The old church bell sounds kind of nice during waking hours but at 2 am it doesn’t sound as good. However, after walking all day with a pack it’s pretty easy to sleep through it.
This morning got off to a rough start. The day before yesterday I slightly twisted my right knee. I didn’t think much about it and woke up yesterday morning with very mild soreness. It went away with walking. I walked all day with no problem but last night it began to stiffen and hurt quite bad. When I awoke today I was a little worried because it was difficult and painful to get around. Nonetheless, I packed up my things just like every day, wrapped my knee with an ace bandage, and walked on. For the first two hours I kind of hobbled along slowly. Unfortunately, the knee wasn’t loosening up like I hoped. I stopped and wrapped the ace bandage tighter and continued on. I was feeling kind of low but the tighter wrap seemed to be helping and my walking was becoming a little more normal.
At one point I thought I might have made a wrong turn so while backtracking a short distance to check I met up with a friendly German by the name of Klaus. Klaus immediately introduced himself and initiated conversation. The conversation was good at taking my thoughts away from my knee.
Klaus is a 55 year teacher of Sociology and Biology. He is of typical German build and stature and is a good steady walker. He discovered the benefits of long distance walking after going through a period of life when he became very burned out with work and personal issues. Miles of walking helped to clear his mind and that is why he continues to walk today.
As we strolled into the village of Estaing we decided to stop for a break. My knee was finally starting to loosen up. Klaus bought me a café au lait “Grande” and my spirits began to rise. We finished our drinks and continued talking as we walked out of Estaing and headed up a long climb to another ridge.
I’ve found that a Long Distance walking is full of high, lows, and everything in between. Sometimes, all in the same day. You never really know what the day will bring and who you might meet. Sometimes it’s the people you meet while on a long walk that make the experience all the better. Walking also gives a person plenty of time to think and reflect while exercise in itself helps to clear the mind.
By the end of the day I was managing the knee issue pretty well and this evening it’s not feeling too bad. I likely stretched something the wrong way the other day when I mildly twisted it. This probably caused some instability which made the knee track a little improperly. Naturally this can cause inflammation. The ace bandage does a good job at helping things stay in proper alignment which alleviates the cause of inflammation. Anyway, that’s my Dr. Todd assessment so I don’t think it’s going to be a real problem. I’ll just continue to wrap it snugly.
No kneed to worry...
Friday I walked from St. Chely d’ Aburac to Espalion and today, Saturday, I walked from Espalion to Golinhac. The area I’m passing through now is comprised of long broad mostly open ridges with green forested valleys. The path generally follows near the top of a ridge but regularly dips down as it passes through one charming village to the next. Tonight I’m camped at a small municipal campground in the quiet ridge top village of Golinhac with expansive views.
The only downside to camping in a quaint small village in France is that most have an ancient church with a bell, if not two bells, and a clock. In France the bell goes off right before the hour to let you know that it’s getting ready to announce the hour. A few moments later it rings for the hour. This goes on 24 hours a day. The old church bell sounds kind of nice during waking hours but at 2 am it doesn’t sound as good. However, after walking all day with a pack it’s pretty easy to sleep through it.
This morning got off to a rough start. The day before yesterday I slightly twisted my right knee. I didn’t think much about it and woke up yesterday morning with very mild soreness. It went away with walking. I walked all day with no problem but last night it began to stiffen and hurt quite bad. When I awoke today I was a little worried because it was difficult and painful to get around. Nonetheless, I packed up my things just like every day, wrapped my knee with an ace bandage, and walked on. For the first two hours I kind of hobbled along slowly. Unfortunately, the knee wasn’t loosening up like I hoped. I stopped and wrapped the ace bandage tighter and continued on. I was feeling kind of low but the tighter wrap seemed to be helping and my walking was becoming a little more normal.
At one point I thought I might have made a wrong turn so while backtracking a short distance to check I met up with a friendly German by the name of Klaus. Klaus immediately introduced himself and initiated conversation. The conversation was good at taking my thoughts away from my knee.
Klaus is a 55 year teacher of Sociology and Biology. He is of typical German build and stature and is a good steady walker. He discovered the benefits of long distance walking after going through a period of life when he became very burned out with work and personal issues. Miles of walking helped to clear his mind and that is why he continues to walk today.
As we strolled into the village of Estaing we decided to stop for a break. My knee was finally starting to loosen up. Klaus bought me a café au lait “Grande” and my spirits began to rise. We finished our drinks and continued talking as we walked out of Estaing and headed up a long climb to another ridge.
I’ve found that a Long Distance walking is full of high, lows, and everything in between. Sometimes, all in the same day. You never really know what the day will bring and who you might meet. Sometimes it’s the people you meet while on a long walk that make the experience all the better. Walking also gives a person plenty of time to think and reflect while exercise in itself helps to clear the mind.
By the end of the day I was managing the knee issue pretty well and this evening it’s not feeling too bad. I likely stretched something the wrong way the other day when I mildly twisted it. This probably caused some instability which made the knee track a little improperly. Naturally this can cause inflammation. The ace bandage does a good job at helping things stay in proper alignment which alleviates the cause of inflammation. Anyway, that’s my Dr. Todd assessment so I don’t think it’s going to be a real problem. I’ll just continue to wrap it snugly.
No kneed to worry...
August 13, 2010
Across The Aubrac Plateau - France
Thursday, August 12…
Today I walked 28 km from Fineyrols to St Chely-d Aubrac. I spent most of the day traversing the Aubrac plateau. It’s a landscape of high wide open scenic grassland with a few granite boulders scattered here and there. The morning air was made fresh by last night’s rain and light cool breeze made me feel live and alert. The morning sky displayed a nice contrast of rich color as light bounced off clouds slowly clearing. It was very peaceful and it's times like this that remind why I enjoy long distance walking so much.
By early afternoon I arrived at the small and very scenic village of Aubrac. I stopped in at hotel restaurant/bar and ordered a ham and cheese sandwich for lunch. Also, known as a Sandwich Jambon Formagge. A sandwich in the French countryside is nothing like you get at home in the USA. The bread is cut thick and the cheese is some variety locally produced from non pasteurized milk. The ham is usually age cured. The cheese and ham are simply put between two slices of thick sliced bread with butter and nothing more. The cheese is usually amazingly good. And the bread and ham are not like anything you’re going to find outside of France. Despite a common thought that French servings are generally small that’s usually not the case with the kind of sandwich I’ve described here.
As the day progressed into the afternoon my backpack made it very clear that it does not like me. I don’t know what it is but it’s turning out to be the most uncomfortable pack I’ve ever used. Well, at least it was this afternoon. As I wrestled with it I began to get all philosophical about it. Since I’m on an ancient pilgrimage route I decided it's not really all that bad considering the burdens Jesus took with him to the cross. Ok, I’m not trying to get religious here but I’m just saying things could always be worse. After all, as I walked across the Aubrac plateau this morning it didn’t seem to be much of a problem. On a more positive not I’ve decided it’s just going to make me stronger and I’m still adjusting to it. However, I’ll now affectionately refer to my pack as “The BEAST”.
August 10, 2010
A More Contemplative Walk
Yesterday I sat down with my lunch under shade provided by a six foot stone base supporting a medieval christian cross outside a 13th century cathedral. Mass had just started and I could hear the singing from inside. The music was contemplative and melancholy but peaceful and beautiful. It's quite a change from the Yoga festival.
When I hiked the Camino in Spain two years ago I had a great appreciation for the historical significance of the Pilgrimage but did not feel a particularly deep spiritual connection. Now that I'm back on the Camino in France I'm sensing more of the spiritual. Although I'm not particularly attracted to Catholicism, nor do I consider myself religious, Christianity is the foundation of my faith. It's what I know and relate to the most and its an integral part of my life. More so than people realize.
On this journey I'm finding the most pleasure out of just walking and contemplating. My pack feels heavier and more cumbersome than ever and I can't figure out why? As I walked today I thought of it as a bundle of burdens, old patterns, and an assortment of things that slow me down or hold me back. My pack is full of items I'm sure I need but if I were to take a different approach towards my walk the pack could be lighter. As it is now I'm totally independent with tent, stove, and necessary items. I'm fully prepared to do everything my way and travel cheap to boot. Now, if I were to rid myself of an item or two it would lighten the load and change the experience. A lighter load naturally leads to an easier walk. Don't get me wrong. I pack my pack well and the average person might be impressed by how I manage but the fact is I know I could do much better. I'd just have to make some choices and learn to travel a little differently.
In France - Back on the Camino - Le Puy
After a very nice visit with Frederic and Stephanie in Lyon I took an early Sunday morning train to Le Puy in Velay to start a 450 mile walk to St Jean Pied Port. Known as via Pondensis, the Chemin de Saint-Jacques de Compostelle, it’s a famous medieval pilgrim route across France that joins the Camino de Santiago near the French and Spanish border. I learned of the route after befriending some Swiss Germans during my walk of the Camino de Santiago in Spain two years ago. They had walked all the way across France from Switzerland.
When I arrived in Le Puy it was an uphill trek from the train station to the Cathedral to register and get a Pilgrims credential. The guidebook said I could get one from the priest and painted a somewhat romantic image of the Priest sending a pilgrim on his way. Instead, I received a not so warm greeting by a nun with a stiff demeanor in the Cathedral gift shop. I asked if she spoke English and she abruptly instructed me in English to fill out a form. After I filled out the form she presented me with a credential and explained where to sign my name and all since it’s completely written in French. All in a business like manner. She then asked for a 5 Euro donation but it was as if I was expected to pay. I handed her 5 Euros and headed out the door. Another day, another Pilgrim. One of many I assume.
The credential is a small multi folded booklet with spaces for rubber stamps. The stamps come in a variety of images and you obtain them along the way to prove and document progress. It makes a great souvenir more than anything. With credential in hand I headed out the Cathedral, picked up a couple of quiches at a boulangerie and was on my way.
I am now 3 days into the walk and am happy to say it’s going well. So far I’ve traveled close to 50 miles from Le Puy to St Privat d’ Allier to La Clauze to St Alban sur Limagnole. The walk is comprised of a mix of trails and very quiet back roads that pass through a varied landscape with plenty of villages along the way.
Walking is a great way to see a country and as an American I’m somewhat of a novelty on this trek. Americans commonly travel France by auto and train but few take the time or have any interest in walking the thousands of miles of routes and trails throughout the country. The walk I’m now on is of special interest to me due to my experience of walking the Camino de Santiago two years ago.
So far there are many similarities as far as accommodation goes. It’s a little more expensive but the quality seems to be a bit better than Spain. Around 10 Euros gets a bed in a hostel like accommodation known as a Gite or you can go cheaper by camping. By camping and cooking my own food and living off baguettes I can travel pretty reasonably on 20 to 25 Euros a day as a Pilgrim. I intend to camp every night unless the weather is bad then I’ll head for a Gite.
For now I’m just getting started and am going through the obligatory break in period with a pack that feels to heavy on sore shoulders. However, I feel the old familiarity coming back as I once again adapt to a life on a trail living out of a pack and am quickly reminded how much I like it. I expect this walk with take around 4 weeks.
August 7, 2010
On My Way Back To The Camino - Le Puy
I’m currently in Lyon, France but almost wound up in Hungry via Paris. The lovely Hungarian woman I met while searching for a last minute ride from the Yoga Festival to a train station almost had me changing plans. She offered me a ride across Germany and Austria with a tour of Hungary and Prague but first wanted to stop in Paris for a couple of nights. She was traveling with a couple of other people who work for her that were doing all the driving. It was one of those semi defining moments but I chose to stick with my plans and a burning desire walk a long distance with a heavy pack on my back. Go figure. Sometimes I don’t really make sense to myself. We parted with smiles at a train station and she left me with an open invitation to visit anytime.
From Blois I traveled via train to Lyon, France where I’m staying two nights with a Frenchman named Frederich. I met Frederich several years ago while attending a summer solstice “White Tantric” meditation in New Mexico. We were on the veggie chopping crew and I had long forgotten about our meeting but Frederich hadn’t. He recognized me right away and I quickly remembered him.
Frederich owns a yoga studio in Lyon and lives on the premises. It’s a nice small place with two sleeping lofts. It’s set within a large old building in the city. The floor plan is old and natural with wood floors and large wood beams. The French have a good sense of decor and it shows. The place has both a studio and homey feel. It’s quite nice.
Frederich’s girlfriend Stephanie attended the yoga festival as well and joined us for dinner last night. This morning Stephanie and I went to the market. Wow! French markets are the best. Everything so fresh and incredible with a large percentage being organic. So much variety and everything good. It’s great getting to know Frederich and Stephanie. They’re really nice people and it’s always good to make new friends.
Tomorrow I’ll travel to Le Puy In Velay where I’ll be starting a walk that will last around 4 weeks. For those who know me you might recall that I walked the Camino de Santiago across northern Spain two years ago. Outside of Spain there are a number of routes across Europe that funnel into the Camino de Santiago. One of the most famous stretches outside of Spain goes from Le Puy to St. Jean Pied Port. It’s a mix of trails and quiet rural roads that pass through numerous small villages. I’ll likely meet others from all over the world but not near as many as I met in Spain.
The walk has been on my mind for awhile and it’s been quite a journey getting to it considering all that happened during the beginning of this trip. Ultimately I was not planning on walking from Le Puy this summer but a turn of events has led me back to the Camino. Before I start I’ll visit the cathedral in Ley Puy and pick up a pilgrims credential from the priest in order to obtain pilgrim stamps along the way. Tomorrow I’ll be a Peregrino again.
From Blois I traveled via train to Lyon, France where I’m staying two nights with a Frenchman named Frederich. I met Frederich several years ago while attending a summer solstice “White Tantric” meditation in New Mexico. We were on the veggie chopping crew and I had long forgotten about our meeting but Frederich hadn’t. He recognized me right away and I quickly remembered him.
Frederich owns a yoga studio in Lyon and lives on the premises. It’s a nice small place with two sleeping lofts. It’s set within a large old building in the city. The floor plan is old and natural with wood floors and large wood beams. The French have a good sense of decor and it shows. The place has both a studio and homey feel. It’s quite nice.
Frederich’s girlfriend Stephanie attended the yoga festival as well and joined us for dinner last night. This morning Stephanie and I went to the market. Wow! French markets are the best. Everything so fresh and incredible with a large percentage being organic. So much variety and everything good. It’s great getting to know Frederich and Stephanie. They’re really nice people and it’s always good to make new friends.
Tomorrow I’ll travel to Le Puy In Velay where I’ll be starting a walk that will last around 4 weeks. For those who know me you might recall that I walked the Camino de Santiago across northern Spain two years ago. Outside of Spain there are a number of routes across Europe that funnel into the Camino de Santiago. One of the most famous stretches outside of Spain goes from Le Puy to St. Jean Pied Port. It’s a mix of trails and quiet rural roads that pass through numerous small villages. I’ll likely meet others from all over the world but not near as many as I met in Spain.
The walk has been on my mind for awhile and it’s been quite a journey getting to it considering all that happened during the beginning of this trip. Ultimately I was not planning on walking from Le Puy this summer but a turn of events has led me back to the Camino. Before I start I’ll visit the cathedral in Ley Puy and pick up a pilgrims credential from the priest in order to obtain pilgrim stamps along the way. Tomorrow I’ll be a Peregrino again.
Yoga Festival - It's a Wrap!
After nearly 3 weeks of camping next to a pond behind a French Chateau in the Loire Valley for the European Yoga festival I’m once again on the move. By time I left yesterday morning (Friday) I was really ready to leave. Working and attending the festival was a good experience but a bit too long and time consuming so I’m not sure I’d do it again. It’s quite a lot of time and effort in exchange for what you get. However, I spent virtually no money as all meals were taking care of and I didn’t have to pay for anything. As I’ve said in past posts the set up team was a great bunch of people. It was a nice diverse group and everyone got along well. Overall it was a positive experience and I’m glad I took advantage of the opportunity.
As far as the festival goes it’s quite a unique event. Over two thousand people show up from all over the world to live and do Yoga together for a week and everything goes off well more or less. The Chateau grounds got kind of cramped at times but no one appeared to mind as most everyone was quite patient. Ironically the least patient attendees seemed to be teachers, organizers, and the like.
For me, my overall interest in Yoga remains lukewarm but being in a festival environment was interesting to say the least. Things started before the sun rose and continued until after the sun set. There’s a heavy Sikh religious influence to a large portion of what went on at the festival, however, much of it has been adapted to western interpretations. Many of the mantras and chants are composed with contemporary music. There was a Sikh Gudwara set up on the grounds which is like a church for Sikhs that appeared to practice a more traditional approach towards Sikhism. The festival music and mantras sounded kind of nice at first but after awhile I tired of repetitiveness of the same words being used in most every song. I just don’t know how many more “Wahe Guru’s” I can take right now.
In some ways it seems kind of odd how some westerners adapt to life as a Sikh in a western world while wearing some variation of traditional garb. Some western female Sikhs wear turbans which is something I never saw in India. Apparently western Sikh woman started wearing turbans during the 1970’s women’s lib movement after confronting Yogi Bhajan why women couldn’t wear turbans. He resisted in allowing it but eventually gave into the idea. In my opinion some woman look downright silly with a turban while some look ok. I much prefer the look of a long haired woman wearing a shawl. It’s far more attractive and authentic.
Anyway, I could go on with Yoga Festival comments but the bottom line is that, although long and not really my thing, I’m happy that I did something different and was part of a team making it happen. I think the affects of “White Tantric” meditation and the overall experience will likely work on me in a positive fashion as I take time to reflect. This all goes without saying that most everyone I talked to really enjoyed the event and found it to be something very special. I guess it all depends on the individual and what their really into. Now it’s time to get back into something I’m really into and that’s walking/hiking.
August 4, 2010
Mur de Solange - Loire Valley - France
"White Tantric" European Yoga Festival - France
In the last five days I’ve gone for two good long walks amidst the French countryside and participated in 3 days of intensive yogic meditation. The variation of yogic meditation I participated in is called “White Tantric”. There are a number of different types of Tantric yoga and “White Tantric” is not to be confused with the pop culture variety. “White Tantric” is very different.
The meditation begins by organizing participants in long straight rows. Everyone is paired up and the rows are aligned so that each person faces their partner Preferably men sit on one side and woman sit on the other but it’s not uncommon for women to pair up with women because more woman practice yoga than men. Once everyone is set the meditation begins. Almost all meditations are done sitting on the ground cross legged and last either 30 or 60 minutes.
While sitting the arms and hands are placed in a yogic posture and held in a specific position known as a kriya or mudra. Hands can be together in prayer pose, held up showing a certain number of fingers etc. Sometimes the meditation requires holding the arms up in a position that can start to be difficult in just a couple of minutes but somehow you do it for 30 or 60 minutes. Some sittings are silent but many include chanting a mantra which is a phrase that’s usually in an ancient language. The phrase translated could mean something like “grant me peace and serenity” or “god give me peace within”, etc. Some sessions are done with eyes closed while others are done staring directly into the eyes of your partner without blinking until you really have to. Staring into the eyes of another person is kind of strange at first but after a couple of minutes it feels almost normal.
Yoga recognizes that energy flows through the body and the postures affect the flow. The purpose of a mantra chant is to create one pointedness. Meditation is not about spacing out or getting to where there’s nothing in your head. That’s called going to sleep. Meditation is about focusing and being mindful without the chatterings of what can be referred to as the monkey mind.
During the European Yoga festival a 3 day White Tantric session is offered and it’s the main reason many people attend. This year there were 1,700 participants from all over the world with 7 different language interpreters to help the moderator. Each day started at 8am and went until 6pm. Partners are pair up randomly or your free to choose. I had a different partner each day which allowed me to meet more people and added variety to the experience. Everyone is also asked to wear white with some kind of white head covering.
I’ve attended two “White Tantric” events in the USA but it’s been a few years since doing so. I found the practice to be very powerful and beneficial for clearing up the mind and moving through what I call mental roadblocks. The fact that you’re meditating and focusing with such large number of people creates quite an atmosphere. It’s very powerful and unifying.
The first meditation involved sitting with hands placed in a certain position while utilizing a yoga breathing technique with eyes closed. I figured at home on my own 5 minutes would seem like an eternity but we did it for 60 minutes. So began 3 full days. During the sessions it’s not uncommon for a person to experience all kinds of emotions. For me about half the time I experienced some amazing moments of hope, joy, clarity etc. while the rest of the time I couldn’t get past how much my knees and butt hurt. Everyone experiences his or her on personal challenges but somehow through the power of a being in a large group or whatever you get through it.
The meditations are specifically designed to deal with a certain issue. This year many of the sittings dealt with the issue of fear. Over a 3 day period there can be many ups and downs but the practice is designed to leave you feeling better in the end. By time the last meditation finishes everyone is feeling quite good if not ecstatic on some level. Also, a person is usually left with a lasting affect that can lead to positive change, clearer thinking, and a new outlook on life upon returning home.
For me it was a very positive experience and in the end and feel that by participating in the “White Tantric” meditation I’ve accomplished what I came here to do. It was especially interesting going through the process with such a diverse international group of people. For two days, just by chance, I sat next to a man from Iran. He commented how it was really hard to find the kind of unity, anywhere in the world, like you find at the European Yoga Festival.
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