China - So Close, Yet So Far

As Deb and I sat at an idyllic local Laos beer joint, built over a scenic rice paddy, we talked about our brilliant idea to cross the Chinese border for a week or so. The guide book said we could get visas at the border in Boten and we had asked around a bit. Everyone seem to think it wasn’t a problem. Our idea was to do some trekking in the Yunnan province and see a bit of China then return to Laos. The assumed relative ease of crossing the border and its close proximity made it a temptation we could not resist. I was looking forward to posting on Facebook that I was in Xishuangbanna. Deb got us sorted out with transportation and we both asked around to make sure we would be able to get visa’s. Everything appeared to be fine.

When we got on the bus we began to second guess ourselves and thought it a bit too easy that we could just show up at the border and get a visa on arrival. After all, China is a communist country that likes to maintain a fairly strict control over things in general. However, our understanding was that Boten is one of the only places you can get a visa on arrival.

There was an oddly dressed British punk rock couple sitting on the back of the bus. They looked to be in their 40’s. Bizarrely out of place and perfectly anti-social. I tried to start up a conversation with them to find out if they knew anything about visas. They would not acknowledge me at all and stared blank face ahead like zombies with their oversized sun glasses. Perfect for an overcast morning. Eventually, I did get one to actually speak. I asked him if he knew anything about visa’s at the border. He replied, “I’m not going to comment on that”, and retreated to his cold anti social way of being. You just never know who you’re going to meet on a bus in Laos when you’re headed to China. For all I know they may be famous in the realm of somewhere. I wish I had taken their photo to put it on the internet. They were quite the couple.

The bus arrived at the border and we proceeded to check out of Laos. Before doing so we talked with Laos immigration and they confirmed that we could get visas at the border. Our Laos visas were voided and we crossed into China.

The Chinese border is blocked by a very large and modern immigration building. Very civilized. We proceeded to an upstairs counter where you can indeed get a visa on arrival. There was one female official working and she instructed Deb and me to sit. When she was ready for us I walked up and she started thumbing through my passport like she was looking for my visa. I told her I did not have a visa and needed one but she said, “No”. At this time our bus driver came up looking for us which was a good thing because he acted as an interpreter. The lady at the counter appeared quite happy as she was doing her best to explain why I could not have a Visa. It all boiled down to the fact that I’m American and Americans have to go through a consulate. She told me so with a big friendly smile. Deb stepped in an asked if she could have a visa. The lady said, “Yes”, because she is from the UK. UK ok. USA, no way. The bus driver then intervened and from what I could tell was doing his best to change the situation in my favor. In my disappointed state I made a civil comment, “You mean, with all of the trade America does with China I still can’t get a visa into the country?”. I was puzzled why UK citizens can get a visa at the border but Americans cannot. I think the comment stopped her for a moment but the answer was still, “No”. There was apparently nothing that could be done about it.

Our bus driver was really nice and could see Deb and I were both quite disappointed. He gave us half our money back without even asking and went on to pick up the others as they cleared immigration. As I sat outside Immigration Deb debated going to China on her own. I told her she was free to do as she pleased but was doubly disappointed because we have so much fun traveling together. I sat on a bench as she walked around for 10 or 15 minutes. It was her decision and I wasn’t going to interfere with it. I was happy when she came back and said, “Well, I guess we need to find a bus back into Laos”.

While we walked back to Laos immigration Deb commented how China probably would have sucked anyway. She also pointed out how you hardly ever hear anyone say China is a great place to travel. She then kind of laughed about how she could get in but I couldn’t. “There you go. You Americans think you can go anywhere you want, when you want”. Yes, Debs comment is very true. This all goes without saying that the USA is one of the hardest countries for foreigners when it comes to Visa’s. I commented to Debs, “Turn about is fair play”.

The real kick in the pants to this whole thing is that our perfectly good Laos visa’s had been voided and they only issue single entry visas. We both had to fill out the paper work again and fork out another $37 USD each to get back into the country. All this after they themselves said we could get visas at the border. Once we cleared immigration we had no problem finding transportation back to the town of Luang Nam Tha. On the ride we were accompanied by a Finnish man who had just traveled through China. We asked him how it was and he said the overall experience was just ok. Aside of a few highlights it was just ok. That made Debs and I feel like we’re not really missing much. Especially since we both really like Laos.

For whatever reason our detour into China just wasn’t meant to be. Tomorrow we will travel to Luang Prabang. So far Laos has been great.