India offers many modes of travel and each variety can greatly influence ones experience of traveling the country. My favorite mode of travel in India is by train. My next favorite is by government bus not to mention auto rickshaw for shorter distances. These forms of transport allow one to see and experience the real India.
With the advent of the internet it’s far easier today to arrange packaged tours with hired driver and modern AC vehicle. It’s really quite possible to travel India relatively easy on such an arrangement. I got to sample this when a couple of travelers offered me a ride from the Cochin airport to Fort Cochin which is 40km away. They had a driver with a plush new mid sized AC vehicle. Complete with clean white linen seat covers. On the way to Fort Cochin we stopped by their travel agent so they could sign some papers and finalize their completely planned packaged tour for a week in Kerala. Sure, the vehicle was very nice and everything perfectly laid out but by time we reached For Cochin I couldn’t get out of the vehicle fast enough. In a strange sense I felt far away from India staring through the tinted auto glass. My creature comforts in India are a decent play to stay for the night and a good place to eat dinner. Other than that I much prefer mixing in with life as it really is in India.
When I take a bus I might ask as to where to get it and what the times may be. Usually the hotel knows this info. I’ll then either walk or take a rickshaw to the station and inquire as to which bus is the one I’m looking for. Someone always seems to appear that helps me get on the right bus. I then get on and pay the fee when the conductor gets comes by. Buses are dirt cheap and always interesting to ride. I rarely see westerners on a bus and find observing Indian life while riding with Indians to be very interesting. Also, I like the wind blowing on my face with all the windows open.
The trains are fantastic. Although not up to European standards they are perfectly acceptable. Trains are really the best way to travel India and are always full. There are a number of classes. Those without AC are dirt cheap and those with AC are inexpensive by western standards. There’s second class non AC which I refer to as the cattle car all the way up to First Class AC which is nice but not necessary. The best value in 3 tier AC. Three tier means there are 3 beds stacked atop each other with the bottom bed serving as a shared bench seat during the day. All berths are assigned so no one can steal your place. My preference is 2 tier AC which offers more room and fewer people. You only really need AC class when it’s hot or your going on long overnight journeys, otherwise, the cheapest seat will do just fine for a short trip. Due to the popularity of trains it’s always best to book ahead and online. Buying a ticket at the station can be a real hassle. What I’ve found to be the easiest method is to find a good booking agent through a hotel or reputable business. If it’s someone who knows what they are doing they can advise you on stations, types of trains, etc.. The fee for booking is usually 50 rupees. About $1 USD. As a single traveler I’ve been able to book several tickets on a relatively short notice but haven’t always gotten exactly what I’ve wanted. The further you book in advance the better.
Riding the train is very peaceful. It can get a little hectic when it stops at the larger stations and people get on and off but it’s really no big deal. Sleeping on the train is quite nice as it hums and rocks back and forth. You’re provided clean sheets, a relatively clean blanket, and a pillow that may or may not be acceptable. When choosing a berth I prefer lower tier. It’s the only one with a window. There’s nothing like waking up at sunrise and staring at the countryside going by.
I have two more train trips planned for India. I’ll be riding all the way up the west coast to Mumbai (Bombay) starting in Trivandrum in the deep south. Before that I'll be taking plenty of busses and rickshaws….
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