Haridwar Walk

September 25, 2009 - I stared out a plate glass window like I were watching a television show. I observed people scurrying about as I sat in the air conditioned comfort of a nice restaurant in Haridwar. As I waited for my food auto rickshaws and horse drawn carts along with the odd car passed before me. Cows, dogs, and a neatly arranged vegatable cart intersect. Colorful signs advertise great things from dingy shops. The glass window blocks most of the noise.

After my meal I step out into the overcast heat and humidity and make my way through the streets. Noise and honking horns blend into a pounding clamour that I’m finally getting use to. A grossly deformed man appeared out of nowhere with face contorted and hands extended for anything I could offer. I said no and tried to pass to the right. He blocked my way. I tried to pass to the left and he blocked my way again. I quickly darted to the other side of the street to avoid being practically tackled. It was a sad sight to see someone suffering so bad from a disease that is unheard of in developed countries and likely very treatable.

I wandered further into Haridwar and chose to take a cable car up to a Hindu temple. I paid the fee after combating the pushing and shoving of a me first mentality while waiting in line. The ride up was nice but the temple was packed and grossly commercialized. I didn’t bother going in nor did I want to wait in a crazy long line to ride back. I chose to walk down a set of stairs. The stairs were lined with make shift shop after shop selling Bollywood musicals with blasting tv’s displaying available features. Not sure I get the Bollywood / Krishna connection but they were pushing it hard. Down past shop after shop until I ran into beggers. A little kid, dressed as the Hindu God Hanuaman, posed for a photo. I gave him a couple of rupees and he seemed like he could care less but the reason he was dressed up was to make money. I noticed a fatherly figure standing by. I guess that’s who he was working for.

Back into the streets of Haridwar and along the Ganges I walked brushing off people trying to sell me things and the occasional begger. Haridwar is said to be a very holy place. Apparently it’s one of the few places that the Hindu God Vishnu dropped some heavanly nectar. I continued further on until I came to the main attraction. A temple and Ghat on the far end of town where a nightly ritual takes place on the famed Ghanges river. People were swimming in the water and lighting candles sat upon flower arrangments meant to be sent down the river. I decided to stick around for the evening event.

It was there that I met 3 westerners from Belgium. When traveling in India you really recognize other westerners. Especially in areas where you don’t see many. The natural tendency is to gravitate to one another because the Indian culture is so foreign. The first two questions are, “Where are you from?” and “How long have you been in India”?. Nicolaus had been traveling with two women for awhile and I got the impression he just needed to hang out with a male and engage in man talk. We immediately hit if off and talked about cultural differences, the challenges of traveling India etc. His english is very good. Especially being Belgium. As we two westerners talked the touts came about every 30 seconds or so. Can you buy this? Can you donate to that? Can you just give me some money? Nontheless we were having a good talk and relating well. Finally the ritual started. Music was playing and something or other was going on but it didn’t seem like all that big of a deal. People were walking around with plates that contained something burning and some individuals were waving their hand at the flame as if a part of the ritual. Nicolaus and I were waiting for something significant to happen then it was over. We looked at each other and said, “That’s it?”.

Since we all needed to get to the other end of town Nicolaus negotiated a couple of bicycle rickshaws. The streets were packed with chaos as usual but the drivers manuevered well amidst it all. That was until we came to a roundabout with a statue of some Hindu god. The round about was completely jammed due to a back hoe blocking it. Horns, noise, and craziness all about. Nothing was moving. It then occurred to me that Nicolaus and I were engaged in a very intelligent conversation about politics and democracy. We were very attentive to one another and felt no need to be concerned about the gridlock mess. I think we did make a couple of comments about it but quickly continued conversing and stayed on topic. Neither one of us seemed irritated or anything… I think I'm adjusting well to India...