October 10, 2008
The Walk To Muxia - If You See A Fork In The Road ?
If you see a fork in the road on the way to Muxia from Finisterre I suggest you choose wisely. The walk to Muxia is absolutely beautiful but alot of the route is not marked very well and all of the maps are pretty lousey. Sometimes you come to a fork with no markings and you just have to go with what feels right. At one point there were two bold yellow arrows pointing the way. Just as I started to go with the arrows a couple of farmers pointed me the opposite direction where I spotted a prominent cement route marker. I took their advice against the trusty yellow arrows. Remarkably, with only a couple clues, I found my way without getting lost. I´m still not sure where the bold arrows went but a couple of other walkers followed them for 20 minutes before turning around and apparently finding the way I took. The route does not see alot of use but I know that people walk from Finisterre daily. Some make it without a problem while others get lost for hours. Luckily, I did not get lost and made good time. However, there were fairly long streches where I was´nt sure I was going the right way. Whenever I had a chance I asked a local if I was on the Camino Muxia. The key to the route is that you really have to pay attention and do the best you can to interpret any lousey map you may have. All said, It´s an exceptioanlly beautiful walk..... As you can see in the photo above there is a river crossing. Large stepping stones have been placed to allow a safe ford. Over time, some of the stones have moved and sunk a bit. Also, the water was up a little. I would´nt say the crossing was difficult yesterday but I can say there was ample opportunity to take a plunge. Two women I know, Joyce from Holland and a German whose name means "Little Swan", arrived at the river crossing after getting lost in the first 13 km. They were having a rough day. It was 4 pm and they had left Finisterre at 8:30. Both are strong accomplished walkers and "Little Swan has been walking since April. She started in Germany. Well, this was the final strech for Swan and just as she neared the end of the crossing she took a dive. Swan dive ? Pardon my humor. Fortunately she was not hurt but all of her stuff got wet. The seemingly placid stream contained a swift current so she had to swim muy rapido to retrieve important items such as passport, money, camera, etc.... All was retrieved successfully except for one boot insole. She can´t use her boots without the insole so she had to walk in her sandals the rest of the way. To bring closure to all of the miles of walking and a dramatic finish she hung her boots on a tree as a symbol of "Done". Perhaps a bird will build a nest upon them. Again, pardon my humor... Swan and Joyce caught up to me and a couple of others at a local bar around 9:00 pm... They had arrived in Muxia around 8:30. Swan´s nerves were first eased by a slug of scotch. We then shared food and wine while she told her story. Nerves were eased even more with laughter...... Today I´m laying over in Muxia. It´s a beautiful Spanish fishing village built upon a narrow penninsula but the architecture is quite stark and utilitarian. I´m staying at a nice guest house/pesion with a very hospitable host. Swan, Joyce, and couple from Holland are staying there as well. One big happy family. Camino family..... I think we´re all done walking for the time being.
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