Burning Man - Burned Out On Work

At the moment work is not really necessary due to the fact that it's been the primary focus of my life for a good portion of 2016. A couple of months in New Zealand followed by home to work followed by a stint in Colorado coupled with work followed by a two week excursion to Burning Man followed by the most focused work stint yet has set me up pretty well. No mortgage, no car payment, low overhead, and years without a girlfriend are good for the savings account. I've been on a roll but by ignoring other interests, talents, and not making room for spontaneity I feel like I’ve been missing out on other things.

I toy with the idea of pursuing completely different interests, with work not being a high priority for a year, just to see what would happen. But of course that kind of luxury takes money. I like to work but in between travels I have a tendency to allow it to be all too consuming. It's easy to do when you are a motivated individual who is self employed. However, I’m definitely feeling the symptoms of burnout. My neck and shoulders are tight from too much time on the computer.

I really have nothing exciting to report since my return from New Zealand aside of feeling more or less normal with no episodes of vertigo for the last few months. Knock on wood. It's giving me confidence to think about traveling again.

Burning Man is the one thing I attended at the end of the summer that's worth reporting. It's an art oriented festival that takes place in the middle of a dry alkaline desert lake bed in the northwest portion of Nevada. My friend Matt has gone every year for the last 16 years and usually invites me to go. I've passed on the invitation with a, “Maybe next year”, but this year things kind of fell in place so I decided to take him up on the offer.

Black Rock City is the third largest city in Nevada during the last week of August and the venue for Burning Man to take place. The city only exists during the festival. Streets and plots are laid out to make a very organized large half circle on a pancake flat alkaline valley with mountains to the East and West. Within a couple of days the population expands from a small set up crew to 70,000 people from all over the world but mostly Californians. The theme is art and creativity with house and trance music being the main soundtrack. The party starts at midnight on a Saturday and goes for eight days nonstop amongst too many theme camps to count.

The city has it's own radio station, health care system, airport, and peace patrol. Money is useless unless you’re looking to buy ice or a cold drink at center camp. Everyone is self-sustained with their own food, water and shelter but people tend to bring too much so sharing and giving is common. Theme camps provide, Dj’s, performances of all types, bands, bars, and limited food service such as grilled cheese sandwiches from 12am to 2am or bacon from 9 am to 11am. Some of the camps can be quite elaborate with large structures and all kinds of odd décor. Everything is free with no strings attached. The camp I stayed in had a margarita machine and a bin of assorted stickers.

The environment is otherworldly, or, more accurately, out of this worldly. People dress in all sorts of costumes or nothing at all during the day when it's hot. Goggles and mask are generally needed in the afternoon when the wind kicks up large dust storms. At night people tend to glam it up with faux fur, whispy scarves, and loud hats.

As you might imagine there is a psychedelic rave drug culture at burning man but it’s not really in the open. People are low key about it. I never saw anyone doing drugs in the open. As for alcohol I saw people drinking but a dry alkaline desert is the perfect environment for a hangover from hell so I didn’t witness any heavy drinking. I don’t do drugs and nor did I drink. Frankly, given the atmosphere, I think it’s totally unnecessary.

So, with a completely sober head I was one to get up early and go to sleep around 11pm. I slept surprisingly well despite music, diesel generators, and art cars blowing loud bursts of flaming propane. Fortunately, I wasn’t too close to any of it. About the time I was going to sleep most were going out to the playa which is the vast open land that fills the half circle layout and beyond. With lights, music, and art cars blowing flames is quite surreal. 11pm is the time to go out and dance until the sun rises. Sometime around sunrise I’d get up and catch the tail end of party.

My days were mostly spent riding a bike all over the place and checking out art installations. I spent one afternoon roller skating at an open air wood rink with plenty of roller skates to barrow. I haven’t roller skated since I was a teenager but picked it up again quickly. A buddy of mine was involved with a theme came where he was performing a meditative vocal piece coupled with the sounds of a bee swarm he recorded while up in a tree in Colorado. It was a huge hit! I helped with some of the set up and breakdown. I didn’t have any problem staying entertained and/or busy all of time.

One theme camp is focused around running and for runners. It’s called Pink Lightning camp. The key event is a 3 loop 50k race that attracts about 200 people. I had no desire to run the 50k but was impressed by the variety of people who participated. I spectated and was perfectly fine with that. It was the first time I ever witnessed a naked man totally covered in gold paint run 31 miles. A couple of days later they hosted a 5k so I decided to give it a go. I was the first guy over 40 and apparently won a pair of socks but never got them. With entry being free it was kind of hard to pass up on the 5k.

My accommodation during the event was my buddy Matt’s minivan. It’s was packed going out with his yurt and supplies but once he set up next to another yurt, that housed a topless nun, the van was more or less empty. I was then able to make it quite comfortable. The main thing was being able to get out of the dust and wind which is a constant problem. The wind is less problematic at night. The van also provided some barrier from sound which became more of an issue at night.

Eight days at Burning Man passed quickly. The art, creative atmosphere, organization, and infrastructure are quite impressive. Everything seems to work quite well and people as a whole appear to be well behaved. Some aspects of burning man are a bit over the top, to say the least, and there is an adult them to much of what goes on. Morals are little relative and I actually found some camps like the “Orgy Dome” to be disturbing. I thought the name was a joke at first but it wasn't. Fortunately, what I consider the dark aspects of Burning Man, drugs and promiscuity, are easy enough to avoid. However, Burning Man is not a place for kids in my opinion.

Probably the most challenging part of Burning Man was leaving. We left later in the afternoon on Monday hoping to be behind the exiting masses but instead it took around 8 or 9 hours to travel the 3 or 4 miles back to pavement. They only allow so many cars out per hour because the paved road is only 2 lane. It was nearly sunrise by time we made it to our hotel in Carson City.

The next day we got a late start out of Carson City and went up to South Lake Tahoe to camp for a night. The next day we drove down to Mammoth Lakes, Ca and camped a night at Devils Postpile National Monument. The following day we drove straight through back to Houston. I would have like to have spent some time in the Sierra but we both needed to get back home. I was impressed with Matt's Astrovan. It has over 270,000 miles with most all of it's original factory parts. We made it out and back ok but the vehicle's loose handling I can't say it was the safest ride....

Burning Man is not really my thing but very interesting. For me it was more of an experience than a real vacation but I am glad I went. Ultimately I had a good time. Will I attend again in the future? Maybe...

Time - A Think Piece

Hello, I'm back on the blog. If you saw a post pop up here on October 24 it was not me. I guess I got hacked. It had a link that I hope no one clicked on. I deleted it.

Time is passing much too quickly these days. I seem to be acutely aware of how time spent defines and shapes who we are as individuals. I wrote this short think piece over the summer and never got around to posting it. I'm not really sure what I'm trying to convey so I guess it's kind of experimental. Sort of like art.... So, Here it goes....

Our thoughts and beliefs, over a period of time, have a profound affect in shaping who we are.

Thoughts, beliefs, and attitudes influence ones decisions that form their reality.

Whatever you put your time into is what you become. Energy, direction, and mental focus hone in on the task at hand. The task becomes the mantra. The mantra becomes the program. The program becomes the way. A title, most often in relation to occupation, appears in the form of a label. Who we are is defined by what we do. Sometimes there's a choice. Sometimes there's not. By doing we become but also by not doing we become. Success, mediocrity or failure is the result. A statement is not only made when one is trying to make a statement but one is also made when making no statement at all. Valued, squandered or lost. Time is a commodity that rolls into the future with no plausible end.

In so many regards life makes no sense. We learn, we struggle, we succeed, and we fail. After all of that we exit leaving nothing but an image of a ghost to be lost on a digital card file. Internally we crave meaning. Faith in something, known or hoped for, leads to compulsion. An innate sense of right or wrong aided by free will gives us the tool of choice. We choose to work hard and do the right thing or to take shortcuts and get through with whatever is easiest. Doing the right thing doesn’t always mean doing what you want to do. Many choose to live somewhere in the in between as actions are customized and justified to benefit ones needs.

There is nothing fair about life unless there is an agreement to divide the cake evenly. Those who do bad gain and those who do good come up short, get pushed behind, or are squashed by disappointment. In the long haul it's believed by most that good prevails and there is a price for doing bad. Some of us are driven to live by a moral and ethical code that seems to be hard wired within. Others go about their business with a murky conscious relative to whatever accommodates their desires.

Nonetheless life prevails as one generation gives way to another. The old is lost to the new and the past is reinvented. History repeats itself in a newer faster format as yesterday becomes modernized. Change is constant but hampered by those clinging to familiarity. Not all change is good and past mistakes are certain to be repeated but the colors become sharper and more defined with technology. Simplicity is lost in the pursuit to simplify as modern day life becomes more complicated. Distraction sits at the throne and does a good job of hiding purpose while busyness clouds the view.

A Ramble From The Homefront

It's been well over two months since I returned from New Zealand. State of affairs? Let me ramble a bit...... Hard work and narrow focus have led to dumb luck in my profession. Success has been padded with plenty of blunders due to failing to see what's right in front of me. Finances are doing ok but I really regret moving savings into the wall street casino. For the most part life has been stable and devoid of vertigo. Homeostasis has been held in check by self imposed prohibition of alcohol, caffeine, and not thinking too much but my social world has suffered quite a bit. Living has been more even but it's not to say I haven't been pushing hard. I've clicked through some quick paced runs with surprising ease. I think of where I was 20 years ago, look at where I am, and think of where I'll be in another 20 years. God willing that is as several people I've known through the years, of the same age, are no longer here. I don't consider 50 to be old but it's not exactly young either. I've been acutely aware, as of late, of my successes, failures, and mediocrity. For the most part I've cut myself short but I have kept things interesting. Yes, I've done and few things pretty well but could have done so many things so much better. I instinctively feel the game is far from over but if I am going to get on with it, well, now's the time. Otherwise, I might as well settle. I suppose either option is fine. Perhaps my current hand is played out. Busyness is a wonderful way to avoid acknowledging almost anything. Time is an asset which ought not be wasted unless you thoroughly enjoy the time your wasting. I really need to stop sleeping on the floor. At least the bathroom is fixed.

I really haven't thought much about much since passing over Mazatlán on the flight back from Auckland. It's a long way across the Pacific but watching a couple of forgettable movies makes the flight pass quicker. My return home couldn't have been more predictable except for an especially mild case of jet lag. Jet lag usually wrecks me for a week after an extended trip but this time it wasn't much of an issue.

Upon my return I fell immediately back to the nut and bolts of regular life catching up with bills, filing taxes and misc. this and that. Excitement has not been a part of the equation except for some nice finds along the lines of work. I still haven't figured out how to make money without working hard.

Last week I went for a walk in Galveston and took some photos of birds with my smart phone. Why do they call it a smart phone? Smart phones are making us dumber. That is all for now...

New Zealand - Some Closing Thoughts

When I first visited New Zealand in 1989 lamb and wool dominated the economy, there were a lot fewer cars, tourism was established but low key, and I had yet to hear the word, “Internet”. I hitch hiked everywhere which took a fair amount of patience at times but never had difficulty finding a place to stay the night. I never made a single reservation for anything except my flight out of the country. The people of New Zealand were refreshingly naïve like it was still the 1950’s and a foreign tourist remained somewhat novel. Sure, you would see other people at popular destinations but nothing was ever really crowded. New Zealand was known but not really discovered, yet.

Today the natural beauty remains unchanged as the country is full of outstanding beaches, mountains and countryside. Low crime and the friendly nature of local people add to the desirability of traveling the country. For those new to foreign travel it’s a great place to start. Infrastructure for the traveler is well established, it’s easy to get around and New Zealand is probably one of the safest places in the world to roam about. The one thing it does lack is the exotic factor. Unless you are really interested in seeking out indigenous Maori culture there’s not really anything exotic about New Zealand. It’s mostly all about the natural beauty.

If you want to seek out a quiet corner or set out on less popular hike it is possible to get away from other travelers but for the most part the tourist track is quite crowded. There are loads of young people in their 20’s traveling around mixing sporadic employment with a yearlong work visa. There are also plenty of tour buses full of older folks. Unless you are fine with carrying a small tent it’s often necessary to book ahead even if it’s a dorm bed in a hostel. The most popular hiking trails are regulated and require advance reservations. It’s almost impossible not to go through a town of any size without seeing a person wearing a backpack.

New Zealand has turned into backpacker mania. For me it’s a bit too much and detracts from any feeling of real adventure. It's exceedingly popular with young Germans. Germans are everywhere. There are also a lot of French. The majority of tourists come from Europe, China, and Japan. The ski towns of the South Island are popular with Argentinians. There are a few Americans here and there but very few American backpackers. Most Americans are older and with a tour group. None are traveling more than 2 or 3 weeks while folks from other countries are gone for months if not a year or more. Canadians are more adventurous than people from the states and I met them on a regular basis. Canadians are easy to notice with their pack because almost all have a Canadian flag patch sewn on and despise being mistaken for an American.

This all goes without saying that I chose to travel during the high season. Right now mid-March is comparable to mid-October in the northern hemisphere so things should slow down heading into the shoulder season before the ski slopes open. I greatly enjoyed the natural beauty, especially in the fiordlands on the Milford Track. However, I tired of the backpacker scene which I usually found myself a part of because that’s where are all the budget options are. New Zealand is not a cheap country to travel but thanks to a strong U.S. dollar I was able to keep it reasonable but I still had to stick with a backpacker approach.
 
As far as the people go I sort of have mixed feeling about New Zelanders, aka, Kiwis. On the surface they are as nice and friendly as can be. At times there are exceedingly helpful and usually very welcoming, however, beneath it all, I often got the sense that you never know for sure what a Kiwi is really thinking. I’m more comfortable with someone being a little brash and blunt than polite and passive. I prefer to know where I stand with someone. I once heard said that Kiwis are soft on the outside and hard in the middle. Sometimes I got that impression but of course not with everyone. Regardless, Kiwis are a really good people. As a whole I’d say they are hearty and independent. If the rest of the world blows itself up there is no doubt in my mind that Kiwis will have no problem taking care of themselves.

Overall New Zealand is a very healthy place. Clean air, clean food, clean water, and a culture of conservation prevail across the nation. People seem to be very aware of issues concerning environmental impact etc.

As I’ve stated numerous times, in previous posts, the last two months have been a little touch and go due to Meniere’s/vertigo. Ultimately this trip will likely go down in the books as Ok. Not great but not bad. Just Ok. With the ease of a flying direct out of Houston and the possibility of attaining another super cheap ticket on Air New Zealand I will likely return sooner than later. The next time around I might try a different time of year and focus on a smaller region. We’ll see.

Nelson - Center of New Zealand - Done

I slept well the second night in Franz Josef and the 10 ½ hour bus ride to Nelson was fine. There were a couple of moments I felt kind of weird but I was ok. For most of the way I had a front seat with a good view which helped eliminate the chance of developing vertigo on the winding sections of road. The driver made a few stops which included the Punakaiki pancake rocks with enough time to do a 20 minute walk to see them. The weather was crappy and raining all day. I got pretty wet checking out the rocks set along sea cliffs but it was worth it. It was a nice bonus.

I arrived at my accommodation around 8:30 pm. No more tent, backpacker hostels, or mountain huts. The place I’m checked into is a solid built and well maintained Victorian home. It’s quite large. The bottom level hosts a dentist office and the top is a nine room guest house. The rooms are very nice, simple but up scale. None of the rooms are ensuite but there are 2 ½ large shared bathrooms, a common space, shared kitchen and a grand view with balcony overlooking the town of Nelson. It’s costing me around $140 USD for three nights as I was able to use some hotel points to cover nearly all of the cost for the first night. It’s quiet, very comfortable and I slept good. I expect I’ll even sleep better the next two days which can really make a difference for the long trip home.

Getting a good night’s sleep is hit and miss on the road and for whatever reason this trip to New Zealand has been the worst for me and sleep. I usually got enough to feel ok the next day but rarely did I feel like I really got a good night’s rest. Part of it was to do with my Meniere’s and vertigo while other times it was noise from other guests in a hostel, campground, or hut. Why people think you can’t close a door without slamming it is something I will never understand. Or, why someone has to rustle through their crap and stomp around at odd hours with no regard for people who are sleeping is inexcusable and plain inconsiderate. Other times it was simply Mother Nature with wind or rain banging against my tent. Yes, earplugs help to a degree but I stopped using them because I actually think they messed with my inner ear pressure. I almost always had vertigo in the morning after using them.

This morning I could have had a free car. An American staying at the guest house bought a cheap old Mazda because being under the age of 25 it was cost prohibitive to rent one. He only paid $800 USD and it served him well for a three week tour. In New Zealand you can’t sue and insurance is not compulsory. For about 10 bucks and five minutes the car registration could have been changed to my name. Well, I’m leaving on Saturday so of course I passed but I suggested he run it by a dealer and get whatever he could for it. He seemed kind of well off and really didn’t care about the money. He just wanted to make someone happy. I then suggested he drop by a backpacker hostel. Surely some 20 year kid, probably a German, would be crazy happy to get it. He liked my suggestion.

Nelson is a large town or maybe even a small city. It sits next to a bay at the top of the South Island. Just above town, on a hill, is a monument built to mark the geographical center of New Zealand. I began my day with a short run to the bay and back. I then went on a little hike up to the geographical center and wandered along a ridge before heading down to make a loop. Around lunchtime I meandered into town and that’s when it hit me. I’m done. I’ve got my fill. My cup is full. It’s a wrap. I returned to the guest house to enjoy the view from the common room. In two days I’ll fly home. Nelson to Auckland then Auckland direct to Houston. I'm happy to do nothing and rest until I leave. Done.

Overall my time in New Zealand has been good. Due to Meniere’s it’s been up and down, in and out, but I’ve still enjoyed some notable high points. Two months has flown by as I expected it would. I am happy to have made the most of my time despite having to deal with unpredictable vertigo which created a mild background anxiety. In the end I think I’ve learned how to manage it while traveling and if anything I’ve gained some confidence on how to travel with Meniere’s. I’m not sure how travel will fit into my immediate future but we shall see.

Upon returning home I will definitely be focusing on trying to solve the mystery of the root cause of my Meniere’s. Doctors are either too specialized or too general when it comes to sorting out the real culprit of most malady’s therefore I’ll need to take the bull by the horns with this one. So far I’ve determined caffeine and alcohol are definitely not good for me. Low salt is recommended but I actually think too low salt is just as bad as too much. It seems like a reasonable amount of salt, not too high, not too low, works best for me. I feel that it’s all about maintaining a proper homeostasis. As we age our bodies change and a proper homeostasis may be a little harder to balance given a certain circumstance. For example the two drinks that felt like nothing in your 20’s might give you a mild hangover in your 60’s. Also, you never really know what the coding of your genetic DNA makeup may have in store for you in the future. For me I believe it’s about finding the right balance. I need to be especially careful of drifting too far into any extreme.

Tomorrow I’ll likely go on a walk but that will probably be about it. I’ll also write a post with some opinions about New Zealand and traveling the country. Mostly though, I’ll be taking it easy..

(The top photo is of the Monument marking the geographical center. The bottom photos are of Punakaiki Rocks and my accommodation in Nelson.)

Franz Josef - Odd Smells

I didn’t sleep much the night after hiking Roy’s peak. The wasp sting that I really didn’t think much of at first burned, itched like crazy, and swelled up around my ankle and lower leg overnight. The morning was nice though as I left to hop a bus to Franz Josef.

The bus ride was longer that it needed to be as it worked in a couple of unnecessary stops that are obviously designed to get passengers to spend money at a café, tourist shop, or even a fruit stand.

Most everyone on the bus was headed to Franz Josef which is a village on the West Coast that sits near the base of a glacier by the same name. The town’s economy is almost entirely based on tourism. The setting is nice amidst lush green temperate rainforest. The Tasman Sea is nearby but you can’t see it from the village. Hotels, café, a few shops, and several tour operators offering helicopter sightseeing trips etc. line a couple of streets.

Upon arrival about half of the bus headed over to an enclave of budget backpacker accommodations. I had a reservation at Chateau Franz for two nights and checked into a single room. The room was located in a cabin like structure called the “Ski Lodge” along with one other single room, a shared living room and shared bathroom. It had character but it was also sort of dark and had a strong musty moldy smell. The room was old and worn but clean.

The Tudor style Chateau Franz looks as if it were originally built in the 1970’s with a few added additions through the years. The place is decorated in a themed fashion with old stuff tacked up for atmosphere but from what I could tell maintenance doesn't appear to be the highest of priorities.

When I checked in there was a discrepancy with the quoted price and the woman checking me in was not the one I made the reservation with. It was only a three dollar difference but the receptionist was making it an issue and she stated she would only honor one night at the price I was originally quoted. I told her I would pay for one night then the other night the next day. That was before I checked out the room. The problem with booking ahead is that at the very least they’ve got you for one night.

Anyway, with swollen lower leg, a bus ride that felt kind of long, smelly room, and deteriorating weather made me wish I hadn’t stopped in Franz Joseph. I debated changing my bus reservation to Nelson for the following day but wasn’t feeling up to back to back long bus rides. I went for a walk.

My leg was bothering me so I went to tourist information and inquired with the young girl working the desk what she knew about New Zealand wasp bites. “Yeah, my friend stepped on a wasp and her whole foot swelled up for days”. “Yes, it itches. You could see a nurse but I don’t think she would really do anything. It’s best to just tough it out”. So, with that issue resolved I returned to the Chateau to cancel my second night. Not a problem. I then went across the street and booked a night at a much nicer hostel named “The Montrose” with a super nice receptionist.

Ironically I slept quite well in the musty accommodation at Chateau Franz. My neighbor in the other room was an Australian, not much older than me, who was motorcycle touring with his mates. He was a really nice guy and spoke in a colorful fashion that Aussie’s tend to be known for. “This place isn’t too flash mate”. He also commented on the smell. There’s a fine line between character and dump. The Chateau Franz has character but really it’s a dump in need of a bulldozer before too long.

Having felt out of sorts the previous day I began the morning with a 45 minute run touring the area. It hadn’t started raining yet so the run went well and I felt good. After that I gathered my things and stored them with the receptionist at the hostel across the street and went for a three hour hike in the rain to catch a glimpse of the foot of Franz Joseph Glacier. Despite rain I quite enjoyed the walk. However, there wasn’t much to see comparatively speaking.

I was able to check into the Montrose hostel at 2 pm. The room was remarkably better and at about the same price, however, it had just been remodeled and redone. Normally that would be great but it had a super strong chemical like smell. I promise you I was not being oversensitive or anything like that. I accepted the room because it was so nice and figured I’d try airing it out. Well, airing it out didn’t help and the smell was actually making me dizzy.

I addressed the issue with the Argentinian manager who turned out to be Mr. customer service extraordinaire. He commented that the smell reminded him of a new pair of tennis shoes. But it was strong. He said he would see what he could do. About 15 minutes later he gave me the option of moving into different room in another building. He offered a small partial refund because the room wasn’t as nice. For me it was perfect. With the rain hammering down I spent the rest of the day relaxing in a room that smelled normal.

I later complimented the manager on how good his customer service skills are and how good the staff is. Tomorrow it’s a 10 ½ hour bus ride to Nelson, my final stop in New Zealand before flying back to Texas.

Roy's Peak - Atmospheric Views

Out the door around 8 Am. I grabbed a cinnamon roll from a local bakery and walked along Lake Wanaka. The skies were cloudy but temperature comfortable. Somehow a wasp, or what we call a Yellow Jacket back in the states, got caught between my sock and the tongue of my boot. It stung the heck out of me but I paid little attention and kept on walking. After a few miles I cut left across a farmer’s field to access the road near Roy’s Peak trailhead.

From the trailhead it was a steady uphill climb on an old 4wd road as it switch backed up steep grassy mountainside good for grazing sheep. The clouds blew in a little more as the sky was totally overcast. The summit was shrouded in fog but there wasn’t much wind. I continued climbing and felt really good. Like my old self, strong, steady and clear. It began to rain lightly.

The old road narrowed in spots and began to look a little more like a trail. Higher up the path crossed the ridge West of the summit to avoid a rough cliffy section to sneak up the back. I continued into cloud fog and up to the summit hosting a radio tower. It took me less than 2 hours of steady hiking to reach the peak from the trailhead. The rain stopped.

The top wasn’t particularly hospitable so I didn’t hang around long. There wasn’t much to see. I descended quickly below the cloud to access the view and allowed myself plenty of time to take it in and collect photos. I remarked to myself that it was an atmospheric day for scenery with mixed shades of light. About halfway down the clouds began to dissipate. I passed many hikers going up who had opted for a late start. By time I reached bottom the mountain was clear and blue sky was showing in patches.

I hiked Mt Roy in 1989 and wanted to do it again on this trip. In ’89 I don’t recall seeing another hiker anywhere on the mountain, just a farmer and some sheep. Now it seems to be quite popular, especially with young Germans.

On the bus ride from Te Anau to Queenstown I sat next to a German man in his mid 50’s. He was especially talkative for a German man his age and I suspected it was because he was traveling alone. I think he was a little lonely. I wasn’t much in the mood for conversation but we chatted awhile. I commented on the number of young Germans traveling New Zealand. He explained how their culture has changed and that kids right out of high school are now encouraged to take a gap year. Many are encouraged to travel and see the world before they pursue their occupational interest. New Zealand is safe, easy, and loaded with great things to do. It’s especially safe for young women. Also, the way things work and function is not much different from European and American culture. It suits Germans well.

I retraced my steps along the lakeshore back to Wanaka to make it approximately 15 or 16 miles for a 7 hour out and back hike. On the town waterfront I ordered a lamb kebab from a Turkish takeaway shop and headed home, to the hostel. It was nice to just feel like my old self, steady, strong and clear.

Tomorrow I’ll hop a bus to Franz Joseph which is known for a cool Glacier. I plan to get in a hike, soak up the scenery, and relax. After Franz Joseph I’ll be heading to Nelson for a few days then back to Texas.

Wanaka

After the Milford Track I spent one night in Te Anau then caught a late morning bus to Queenstown. Queenstown is an internationally known destination for outdoor activities, skiing, and adrenalin sports such as bungy jumping and skydiving. The town, if not small city, sits next to a large lake with mountains all around. The setting is quite beautiful, however, its trendy popularity attracts loads of tourists which creates a not so relaxed vibe. Aside of the average Joe arriving alone or via packaged tour, Queenstown is a magnet for young college aged kids looking for a party after the adrenalin rush of jumping off a bridge connected to a large rubber band, etc. It’s a party town.

I arrived mid-afternoon and checked into Flaming Kiwi Backpackers for a budget single. It was a good thing I booked ahead as town was packed. I spent the remainder of the afternoon checking out the area and walking around a park. I stood in line for nearly half an hour to get a Fergburger which is a local rave. The meat patty was very good but New Zealand burgers are skimpy with cheese, loaded with garlic mayonnaise and full of some kind of relish. The taste is quite different from an American burger but good nonetheless. The big upside is that often times the beef is grass fed and local.

I enjoyed an afternoon wandering around Queenstown, especially since the weather was so good, but I don’t much care for the feel of the place. At the hostel I felt like the odd man out. I don’t think many or any of the people staying there were over 25. It was Friday night and a lot of people were drinking. Fortunately, the hostel was well managed and at 10:30 all of the common areas were cleared by management which meant the drinkers went out for the rest of the night. My room was tucked in the back so it was pretty quiet, however, I could hear drunk kids all night long, in the distance, as they a passed along a nearby street. One night in Queenstown was enough.

This morning, Saturday, I caught an early bus to Wanaka. When I first visited Wanaka in 1989 it was a sleepy idyllic town with everything to offer for someone seeking an outdoor lifestyle. It was still undiscovered. Oh well, now, today, it’s definitely been discovered.

Wanaka like Queenstown sits next to a lake surrounded by mountains. It’s much more built up than the last time I was here and now attracts loads of tourists. Fortunately, it’s still pretty laid back. I consider Wanaka to be a mature version of Queenstown minus trendy hype, adrenalin sports, and partying twenty somethings. It has a nice feel.

Tonight I am checked into a budget single at Holly’s backpackers. I feel quite comfortable and fit in with the company of a broad age range of guests. Today I went on a hike up small peak and walked all over town. After that I was motivated to go for a short run so I did. I’m in Wanaka for two nights so tomorrow I plan to get in a good hike weather permitting.

Milford Track

It was cloudy and kind of cold on the boat ride up Lake Te Anau to Glade Wharf. The wharf sits in a cove at the end of the long lake tucked in with steep mountains making any other form of access very difficult. Glade Wharf marks the beginning of the world famous Milford Track that’s touted as being the finest walk in the world.

The Milford Track stretches a little over 33 miles starting in the Clinton River Valley. It leads up and over Mackinnon Pass and down the Arthur River Valley to Sandfly Point. The track is heavily restricted to 40 independent and 50 guided hikers a day. The independent and guided walkers stay at different huts. Start times and huts are staggered so the independent and guided do not mix. With the independent hikers such as myself staying a little beyond the guided group it’s possible to walk all day without seeing anyone else on the trail. The guided groups start at a set time. Independent hikers do as they wish.

The first day is short and easy. About three miles to Clinton hut. The walk is very nice and passes through thick vibrant green temperate rain forest. Long stringy moss coats trees and ferns. Plants carpet the ground. The first hut is also the first time you really get to meet the other 40 strangers doing the same thing. I immediately hit it off with a couple of women from California who are not only hikers but runners. There was group of Israelis, Chinese, a couple of French, a Canadian, two stylish Korean Women from Gangnam in Seoul and a of course New Zealanders aka Kiwis of the humankind. I also met a young woman from the states who has been living in Australia since her teens. All in all a good group and diverse as expected.

From the Clinton hut the trail climbs gradually upward and the valley narrows. The mountains become very steep and rise almost vertically from the valley floor. The walking is pleasant and becomes more varied and increasingly scenic.

According to the weather forecast I wasn’t expecting things to be too good but conditions on day 2 turned out to be excellent. It was sunny, the temperature was perfect, and there was little if any wind. I took lots of photos and covered the 10 miles or so up to Mintaro Hut with ease.

At Mintaro I stopped, ate lunch, and figured I’d just relax the rest of the day talking to other hikers, however, with the weather so nice it seemed like a good idea to head up Mackinnon Pass which is really the crown jewel of the hike. As I snacked some more, two of the Israeli hikers said they had been reading the Lonely Planet guide and it was advisable to day hike up to Makinnon Pass if the weather is good upon reaching Mintaro. It didn’t take much reasoning to come to that conclusion. One of the Israeli’s commented. “It's the best way”.

Ten minutes later the three of us were headed up the trail. The weather continued with its fabulous display of blue sky and occasional passing cloud. Without packs the hike up felt easy. We met a Japanese man coming down who left earlier to make the pass a day hike as well. It only took us an hour to cover a little over two miles to reach the top.

The views were astounding, 360 degrees, all the way around. Mount Balloon with a pointy top sits at the thrown while Mt Elliot and Mt Wilmur host a hanging glacier. The peaks and valleys are extremely steep to vertical. A large monument built in the style of a rock cairn topped with a crucifix marks the pass. It's a memorial for the explorer by the name of Mackinnon who first discovered the region.

With comfortable temperatures and little wind we spent about half hour taking photos and enjoying the views. We had no idea what the weather might be like the following day so we were really happy to have made the decision to hike the pass when we did.

The night was clear and full of stars but colder. The fine weather continued through the morning as everyone headed up the pass with an early start. Although conditions atop were good for a view it was cold, kind of windy, and the morning light was not good for photos. Still, not bad, but not as good as the previous afternoon.

From the top of the pass the trail traverses east to avoid a band of cliffs before descending. The descent was exceeding scenic but a little rugged which made for slower going with a frequent pause to take in the view. At one point the trail goes down a series of steps that are built along a long narrow stream that forms a series of waterfalls and grottos. As if that isn’t enough upon arrival at the valley bottom there’s a side trail that only takes thirty to forty five minutes to reach New Zealand’s highest waterfall, Sutherland Falls. I dopped my pack at a day shelter and took the side trip.

Dumpling Hut was home for night three and the Ranger on sight informed us that a strong storm was on the way. So far, aside of having a difficult time getting a good nights rest at the huts the only annoyance were sandflies. In America we call them black flies. They are small and have a big bite. Their bite emits an anticoagulant that causes a small pool of blood to rise to the skin for feeding. The black flies are much worse in Northeast America so relatively speaking the sandflies in New Zealand are quite manageable and more of an annoyance issue than anything.

Well, on the morning of the 4th day a severe storm blew in around 4 or 5 am and we were told by the ranger not to go anywhere for the time being. Heavy rain, thunder and lightning introduced an enormous amount of rain in a very short period of time. There was talk of us getting flooded in and a possible helicopter evacuation to avoid a section prone to flooding. As the storm raged the walls of the valley turned into walls of waterfalls. The storm blew over Mackinnon pass with gusts up to 135 Km an hour. The front was moving fast. The ranger kept us informed and none of us were too eager to get going. Around 10 am the storm began to ease. Around 10:30 the skies started to show some clearing. The walls of the valley became a spectacular sight with too many waterfalls to mention. Most all were flowing near or full capacity. At 11:15 the ranger received a report that the storm had fully passed and no more rain was expected. We were warned of one section with possibly high water and the ranger said he would run ahead to guide us safely. Had the storm kept raging much longer I think it would have been a real issue. Ironically, it just made things more beautiful.

With waterfalls everywhere I was really happy to walk but even more so just to get the finish the trail properly. There was one flooded section that with the ranger’s advice and direction sent us through knee deep water but nothing really dangerous. The track finishes at Sandfly point which was insanely full of sandflies. By far the worst I’ve seen in New Zealand. I was happy to get on the first boat necessary to cross a body of water to Milford Sound and a bus back to Te Anau.

The Milford Track was definitely a bright spot to my travels in New Zealand considering my issues with Meniere's. Vertigo did rear its uninvited presence a couple of times. The first time was on day two. It was very mild and didn’t last long. I was actually able to walk though it with the aid of my hiking sticks. The second occasion was on the third night as I lay down to sleep. I experienced a fairly intense episode of the spins for a couple of hours as I lay in bed. I wondered if it had something to do with the approaching low of a strong storm.

All things considered I’d say things went about as good or better than expected on the walk, especially considering the weather report prior to leaving. I am really happy that I got an opportunity to hike the Milford Track. It’s a nice little feather in the hat. I was lucky to get a reservation when I just happened to check online as a party of two canceled. On average you have to book a year ahead. When cancellations do pop up they are usually taken within 30 minutes. The Fiordlands of the South Island of New Zealand have to be one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Milford Track - Photo Set