Walking Is My Yoga - The French Countryside

The yoga festival is fully underway with workshops, music, and a bazaar. The atmosphere is alive and happening but in all honesty I’m not really into it. It’s not grabbing my interest and the crowd is a little much for me. A group of singing minstrels wakes me every morning at 4 am as they pass by my tent to wake everyone for the 4:30 morning Sadhana. Interestingly enough the song they sing is a Christian song about rising up to give thanks to the lord. At the same time three campers next to me, all around the age of 21, chatter relatively loudly while they fumble with their stuff getting ready for Sadhana. Sadhana is morning yoga, chants, and meditation as commonly practiced in India.

I haven’t bothered with Sadhana but I do make it to breakfast at 8:15 which is spicy potato soup, 2 bananas, and 2 oranges. Long gone are the exotic cheeses and varied meals enjoyed before the festival. The diet now is designed to help with Yoga and meditation. Evening meals consist of steamed beats and carrots along with all of the mung beans and rice you can eat. I’ve decided to adhere to the diet for the time being but am looking forward to beer and pizza next week.

Tomorrow will begin a very intensive 3 day yoga meditation program. This is what I’m really here for. As far as philosophizing and all that kind of stuff I feel like I’ve done plenty if not too much during my 44+ years on the planet. There’s a time to think and there’s a time to do. Sometimes too much thinking isn’t the best thing when it’s time to do. I’ve participated in two 3 meditative yoga programs before and found it to be very beneficial for quieting the mind in order to make clear decisions, relieve stress etc.

In the meantime what I’ve been enjoying the most are some nice walks around the area of Mur du Solange. Mur du Solange is a very small village but like a number of villages in France there is network of walking routes that incorporate trails and very quiet rural roads. It’s about a 30 minute walk through the forest from the festival to the village. In the middle of the village there is an information sign/map for the walking routes. From the village there are a number of circular routes. I just took a photo of the map on my digital camera and started walking. The area, although flat and not particularly spectacular, is very peaceful and pleasant. There’s something very appealing about the French country side and walking has been my yoga.

Today I’ll go on another walk then I’ll concentrate on the next 3 days which could be pretty challenging.

How "Wild Bill" Got Into Yoga

How “Wild Bill” Got Into Yoga

During the setup I’ve spent quite a bit of time working with a German man who is about the same age as me. At first glance he’s kind of a rough looking character who resembles the wild west icon “Wild Bill Hickock” but within a short conversation I was quickly reminded how you can’t judge a book by its cover. Anyway, we have worked well together and share a similar sense of humor. I asked him one day how he got into Yoga. He then began to tell me his story with a thick German accent. I’ll call him “Wild Bill”.

When “Wild Bill” was younger he loved to party with his friends. They would go out, listen to loud music, drink, and party for days. It was good times all the time. Then one day while he and his friends were partying at one of their favorite places on a lake next to a Nuclear power plant he took some LSD. “Wild Bill” was tripping pretty hard when he looked above the Nuclear power plant and saw four big green letters in the sky spelling out YOGA. He had never heard of Yoga before and when he came back down he was quite curios.

The internet wasn’t happening yet so he went to a book store and bought two books on yoga. He spent some time studying this strange stuff called yoga and finally tried it out. In the midst of his first experiment with it he had a profound experience of being his true self for the first time and burst out laughing uncontrollably. At that moment he gave up all the partying and anything that had to do with it. He adopted habits of clean living and became a vegetarian. That was 22 years ago.

Since then he as attended more yoga festivals than I can keep a track of and has done some wild stuff like chanting a mantra for 72 hours straight, lived on nothing but melons for days, and spent time with different masters of yoga disciplines. From what I can tell yoga has been a very positive thing in “Wild Bills” life and I must admit he’s shared some interesting wisdom with me. “Wild Bill” is just one of many in a sea of diverse personalities here at the Yoga festival.

Time For Yoga and Meditation

Tuesday July, 27

When the clock hit 3pm I was sooo done with set up and quite exhausted by it all. I really could have gone for a beer to wind down but all I could find was a cup of Yogi tea. After 10 days of work, group meals, and obligations I’m now totally free for the the next week. It’s my choice if I want to attend any of the events or not. The only thing I really need to be aware of is when food is being served. For this week I'm trying out a new name for grins. Guru Todd.

In the beginning of the work exchange I questioned whether or not I really wanted to be here but once I really decided this is what I’m doing for now I settled in and began to more fully enjoy my time with the crew.

The quiet Chateau grounds have now been transformed into a mass of humanity. This year is the biggest festival yet with well over 2,500 attendees. It’s a bit of an adjustment to get use to the crowds but people are happy to be here so there’s an element of excitement in the air. With everyone philosophizing, meditating, and eating vegetarian food it’s a wonderfully interesting sort of vibe. Things are just getting started.

The European Yoga Festival attracts many types of personalities from hippies to professionals. Some are into the religious and philosophical aspects while others are more into the meditative and physical fitness benefits. My interest lies more in the meditative and physical fitness components. I’ll ponder some of the philosophy but I really don’t have much interest in religious aspects. The common bond that everyone shares at the festival is a desire for peace both inward and outward.

Calling the European Yoga Festival the European Yoga Festival can be a little misleading. The event is put on by 3HO (Healthy, Happy, Holy). It’s almost exclusively Kundalini Yoga mixed with traditional Sikh Traditions. You will be hard pressed to find much in the way of variety concerning other Yoga disciplines at the festival.

Kundalini is more specifically a meditative yoga. It can involve holding certain challenging poses for a lengthy amount of time but it’s quite different but from what I consider to be classic Hatha yoga etc.,. It was first introduced to the west by a Indian Sikh named Yogi Bhajan. He was one of numerous Yogis who immigrated to the USA during the 1960’s. He quickly gained popularity by offering hippies an alternative to drugs through Yoga. His pitch was you don’t need drugs to get high. Over the years he gained in popularity and 3HO was formed. Yogi Bhajan differed from mainstream Sikhs because of his promotion of yoga. Yoga is not a commonly practiced by Sikhs.

Yogi Bhajan passed away a few years ago but his legacy remains through 3HO and it’s events. In some ways Yogi Bhajan was a man of mixed reviews but the meditative form of Yoga that he introduced has proved to be beneficial for many including myself. I don’t practice it on a regular basis but I have attended two large events in the USA and have found Kundalini Yoga to be very effective in clearing the mind an relieving stress. Some of the attendees are fully into all aspects of Kundalini, Yogi Bhajan, and even wear turbans while many others like myself are just here for the Yoga.

I’ll write more about the specifics of Kundalini Yoga in future posts. In the meantime check out the side panel of a box of Peace Cereal the next time your at whole Food to find out more about the Yogi.

Yoga Festival - Setup Continues

Sunday July 25,

Setup continues on the grounds of the European Yoga Festival but the time is nearing when our work will be done. On Tuesday at 3 pm all of us on the set up will crew drop our tools and are free to do as we please for the entire festival. When it ends I’ll be obligated to work two days with cleanup then I’ll be done.

For the last week the set up crew has had the run of the place and the Chateau grounds have been very peaceful. The work has been a bit of a grind at times but the pace relaxed. Jerome, the supervisor, has kept things fun with his relaxed but not too relaxed management style coupled with British humor.

The crew is really a great bunch of people and working with them has allowed me to feel like I’m a part of something. When at home, I pretty much do everything on my own. Aside of social events with the running club I don’t really feel a part of anything. For the past week I’ve been pretty much living a communal lifestyle. Working with the same people every day and eating all of our meals together at the same time has created a family like environment.

Today, Sunday, the atmosphere is beginning to change. Event managers are showing up as well as some early campers. The wide open grounds are slowly being filled with tents and German is being spoken more and more. Jerome says we are getting ready for a German invasion as Germans make up the largest percentage of participants. As I always say. Where one German goes, many follow.

Given how much time I’ve spent on the grounds, during setup, I’m thinking I’ll probably skip a couple of days of the actual 8 day festival to check out some area sites.

France - Yoga Festival - Setting Up

Tuesday, July 20

It’s the third day of work and I awoke debating why I’m here. I really want to run off and hike, however, I still feel compelled to stay. The set up team is a really a great bunch of people and everyone appears to get along really well. There’s a nice diversity to the crew. In a sense I feel kind of out of place but at the same time totally welcomed and included. I kind of feel like if I were to decide to leave right now the team would be somewhat disappointed and confused by my departure. Despite my hot and cold interest I’m still in. After all, I’m here. I’ll see how the festival shakes out. If my burning desire remains to do a long distance hike then I’ll still have a month to walk myself into the ground.

The great nights of sleep continue in my tent down by the pond and the Chateau is quickly beginning to feel like a home of sorts. It will be this way until the weekend. When the festival begins the empty field behind the chateau will quickly be filled with 1500+ yoga campers.

The weather has been absolutely splendid and the work steady. The days are like this. Yoga is at 6am for those who are interested. 8am breakfast then work until 1 or 2. Break until 3 or 4 then work until 7 or so when it’s time to have dinner. A specific cook is in charge of preparing the food and all of the meals are communal. It’s quite nice and the food is generally very good, always healthy, and served with a choice of several good French cheeses that would be considered a specialty back home.

My motivation for base labor hasn’t been all that great but I’m definitely doing my share. There’s a variety of things to do so unappealing duties never seem to last very long. The work pace and amount of time spent working will gradually pick up as the opening day nears.

Naturally the set up crew is international. Nationalities include Italian, British, French, Canadian, American, Spanish, and German. English is the universal language but it’s not uncommon to throw out words or speak in another lingo at any given time. For example a Spanish man said “Thank You” and without thinking I responded “Dinada”. When a group from the same country are gathered together they’re most likely to speak in their native language otherwise it’s mostly all English. The one area where I feel like I fit in with the crew is that most all are of the “Traveler Thinker” variety and many conversations include stories from past trips and hopes of future travels.

Wednesday, July, 21

Yesterday was Jerome the supervisor’s birthday. At four o’clock nine of us piled into a couple of vehicles and went out for coffee at a local place in a small village about a mile or two from the Chateau. In the village there is a Boulangerie / Patisserie that makes bread, pastries, croissants etc. The village is just a typical quaint small French village and not any kind of tourist attraction, however, the Boulangerie produces some insanely crazily good stuff. Jerome picked up some fruit tarts to celebrate his birthday. While we were having coffee he sliced up a 12 inch fresh blueberry tart that had just been prepared. I don’t know what the heck they do here in France but that blueberry tart was impossibly tasty. In the evening we had more after dinner along with non alcoholic beer. As I consumed the intoxicating flavors I commented that I didn’t think drugs were allowed at the festival.

Today work has picked up. We spent all morning installing pit latrines in the rain. The Chateau has quite a few facilities but not enough toilets to properly serve over 2,000 people for over a week. To combat the issue 40 pit latrines have been dug around the property forests. They are very basic squat toilets with a flat wood floor decoratively painted with a hole in the center. Three lattice sided walls are put together with a shower curtain functioning as a door. The pits in the ground have already been dug so we just had to set things up. Once the festival is over the floor and walls are removed and the holes covered up. They call them eco toilets and in all regards they’ve served well in the past, but on the other hand, I think the festival is kind of cutting corners on this issue.

Tomorrow we will spend all day putting up tents. Today a professional company arrived with a couple of truck loads of parts for the main tent which is being professionally installed. It’s the size of a fairly large pavilion. Tonight I am very tired.

Back In France - Euro Yoga Festival

July 18, 2010

A car ride, two trains, a plane flight, a bus, a train, and another car ride. Around fifteen hours after departing Lago Patria near Naples, Italy I arrived at a Chateau in the Loire Valley of France.

The eleven days I spent visiting my Aunt and Uncle, Frank and Anna, passed extremely fast. It was a great visit. Their hospitality and generosity was above and beyond any kind of preconceived ideas I may have had. I haven’t spent much time with them in quite awhile so it was really great to catch up and get reacquainted. I could have easily stayed longer and in a way felt like I was leaving a little too soon. I hope to make it back sometime in the not too distant future.

Before I began this trip to Europe I had an idea in the back of my mind to attend the European Yoga festival. I contacted the organization putting it in on and expressed an interest in doing a work exchange. In a sense I had it in my quiver as a back plan as I wasn’t originally sure what I’d be doing in Europe. Thus began an exchange of emails over the course of a couple of months.

When I began my trek in the Pyrenees I had pretty much tossed out the Yoga festival idea. I was on a list for alternates because all of the positions had been filled and I’d kind of lost interest anyway. After the hiking accident trekking wasn’t an option for a week or so. It was then that I decided to move on to Italy. While in Italy the opportunity for a work exchange opened up. The way everything fell together made me think I should go for it so I made arrangements to do so even as my desire to return to a hike remains strong. It’s a funny thing how sometimes I’ll abstain from doing something I really want to do because I feel like I’m supposed to do something else. Even if I’m not sure I really want to do that something else. The trip I’m currently on has been much different than I originally hoped and it has caused me to look at things a bit differently. With little thought I’ve gambled that that the Yoga festival might be ideally suited for me right now.

Chateau Arrival…

I arrived at the Chateau around 9 pm on Saturday, July 17. I quickly met a couple of other Yoga festival volunteers at the Blois train station. We were picked up by a turban clad white skinned Brit with a red beard. He greeted us with cheerful smiles and told us what we could expect over the course of our stay.

The arrangement is that we all work for a week before the festival before anyone else arrives. Duties involve setting up tents, posting signs, sorting through supplies etc… Once the festival starts we are totally free to just enjoy the event and are not expected to volunteer for anything. When the festival ends we are required to stay two days to help shut things down. A campsite, facilities, and all meals are included. Ideally I could spend my entire time here and not spend a single penny. Otherwise, it costs around $500 to participate…..

The event is held on the grounds of a lovely Chateau. It consists of some wonderful open areas, a couple of ponds, several walking paths, and of course a large old home. The home is very nice but by French standards it’s just ok. It’s a really beautiful and relaxing environment.

When we arrived we were first treated to dinner and introduced to the rest of the staff with the total number being around 20. Just as it got dark I pitched my tent next to a large pond tucked back and down from the Chateau.

Work Day 1….

The first day of work was Sunday July, 18. We started the day by having breakfast together and our leader Jerome briefing us on what we could expect. “The work will be hard and our relationship difficult but there will be moments of joy”. Instructions were delivered in the tone of good humored British sarcasm that’s easy for an American to understand but puzzling to a German. I like Jerome. He appears to be perfectly suited for getting things done while keeping things fun.

Sunday wasn’t too difficult. We spent most of our time pulling things out of storage and sorting through stuff. One of the staff, an Italian woman, was bit by something in the process and started to have an allergic reaction. She was taken to the hospital and given medication. Fortunately she arrived back later in the evening Ok.
So far things are going fine. Everyone is very nice. However, I still have reservations about this being the way I want to spend my time. I’d really rather be hiking…..

Monday July 19…..

I’d really rather be hiking. I’m actually not all that into Yoga. So, why am I here?
Ok, this is where the “Thinker” part of “World Traveler and Thinker” comes in. Sometimes in life a person comes to a point where change is in order. The common tendency is to repeat old patterns and live life in circular motion. I’m not saying this is necessarily good or bad. That is for the individual to decide. However, if the circle starts to resemble a downward spiral then change is probably a good idea.

As I always say I really have nothing to complain about, however, I can’t say I’m perfectly satisfied with a number of things in my life. My travels shake things up and keep things interesting but upon returning I fall into old routines that are not really getting me where I want/need to go. Ironically, running off to do a hike is kind of part of the pattern. Although it’s something I love to do I think it might be a good idea to use the pause button for a moment.

In my day to day life at home I keep quite busy but do most everything on my own and alone. Aside of social gatherings with a local running club, that generally center around beer drinking, I really don’t spend much time with anyone. My interactions with people are generally light and on the surface. This is all perfectly fine but part of me desires to connect with people on a deeper level but I don’t allow myself enough opportunity to. Running off to do a long distance hike is great on a personal level but on a relationship level it can do more to isolate oneself from others.

Doing a work exchange for the Yoga festival appeared attractive to me for a number of reasons. For one it presents an opportunity to connect and get to know others through the basic process of team work and simply spending lots of time together at meals etc.,. The festival I’m attending incorporates an intensive amount of meditation. The people that attend such an event come from all sorts of backgrounds but tend to be introspective thinkers and the like. Most are experiencing life on what I’d consider to be a little deeper level. Small talk can quickly evolve into more meaningful topics of how to improve one’s life, quite the mind, and do the right thing. More attention is given to understanding the subtleties of life. It’s a very different environment filled with constructive intentions. The diet is very healthy vegetarian. There’s no alcohol, drugs, or smoking and no one seems interested in those things anyway.

I guess you can say I’m within an experiment of sorts and am challenging myself to step out of the patterns that have become thoroughly ingrained over the years. So far everyone I’ve met has been great. The Chateau grounds are extremely peaceful with just the set up staff and I’m sleeping really well in my tent by the pond. There’s tons of work to do but he pace has been fairly relaxed thus far. The food is plentiful and very healthy. Jerome, the leader, makes a croissant run every morning. French Croissants are unbelievable and the only drawback thus far is that I’m becoming addicted to them.

All said I do believe a course of events kind of led me here and my curiosity of knowing why keeps me from running off too soon. I jokingly commented to one of the other workers that I’m not here for the Yoga. In actuality I think there may be some truth to the comment……

Itlay - The Coastal Situation

I must say it’s been exceptionally nice staying with my Aunt and Uncle in Italy. Since my last post we’ve checked out the Amalfi Coast, spent a day at the beach, and I’ve continued to eat more good food than I can keep a track of.

In the summer Italians flee to the beaches by the thousands. Some beaches are nice and clean while others are pretty questionable. All of the nice beaches are managed by local small businesses and every square centimeter is utilized. Lounge chairs, umbrellas, and people lying about cover most of the sand. There’s usually a bar nearby and African immigrants roam about selling sunglasses, hats and wrist watches. For those not accustomed to a sardine packed beach the situation might seem kind of foreign and maybe a little intimidating, but hey, this is Italy. So, park the car, pay a few Euros, and enjoy the lovely Mediterranean climate.

It doesn’t take long to adjust to Italian beach life. I’d say it takes about 2 or 3 minutes. Despite the crowds there’s a nice relaxing vibe that’s contagious and it’s easy to understand how someone can make the beach their domain for the summer. Some people rent a specific umbrella plots for the entire season. For a good swim you can wade past the shallow water crowd into deeper perfectly temperate waters with just the right salt content. Not many people go beyond waist deep water so beyond that there’s plenty of room to move.

Where there’s not an enticing beach there are miles of scenic coastline. Most notably is the Amalfi coast which is located south of Naples. The Amalfi coast consists of a narrow winding road cut into steep mountains that fall into a strikingly beautiful rocky shoreline. The road passes through incredibly scenic old fishing villages cut into a built precariously upon very steep terrain. Many of the buildings are painted different colors which creates a nice contrast. The roadway must rank as one of the top coastal drives in the world.

Naturally with it being July there were plenty of tourists on the Amalfi coast but Frank commented that it was noticeably fewer than he’s seen on past visits.

Frank and Anna have been really great. They’ve been more than generous and my time in Italy is passing very fast. I’ve recovered exceptionally well from the accident I had two weeks ago. The stitches have been removed and aside of a little remaining black around my right eye everything looks pretty normal. Next Saturday morning I’ll be on the move again as I settle into a very different kind of experience.

Italian Cappuccino….. It’s Amazing!

I don’t drink a lot of coffee but I do enjoy a nice latte or cappuccino from time to time. Since I’ve been in Italy I’ve been drinking cappuccino. This morning my Aunt Anna announces that she has made a beautiful cup of cappuccino for me. I was about to head out the door for a run but paused to enjoy the beautiful cup of cappuccino. I normally don’t drink coffee before running but today I did.

The cappuccino was absolutely splendid. I’m not sure what we drink back in the states but it’s not like the coffee in Italy. Anyway, I drank the cup and went for a run. It was the first run in my life after drinking cappuccino. What I discovered is that coffee is definitely a sports enhancement drug. I felt like a speedy 25 year old jacked up on jet fuel. It made for a very easy yet very quick run. When I finished Frank needed a good sized area of field mowed with a lawn mower. I was still firing along like a Ferrari so I knocked it out like a shot of Lemon cello.

Italian Cappuccino….. It’s Amazing!

Vesuvius and Pompeii - A Beautiful Day

The easy life continues underneath blue skies and mild temps of a Southern Italian Mediterranean climate. My aunt Anna keeps me well fed with tastey food and enthusiastically washes my clothes. Uncle Frank is an ace at the wheel driving amidst crazy Italian drivers as he shuttles me around from site to site.

Yesterday we visited the volcano known as Mt Vesuvius and the excavated city of Pompeii. The top portion of Mt Vesuvius is protected by a national park. There are a couple of access points and a few trails. The most popular consists of a scenic drive most of the way to the top followed by a short hike, less than a mile, to the west facing rim. The views were outstanding and enhanced by five star weather. The west facing rim is lower than the actual summit and an elusive summit trail is not very obvious or marked. I assume that’s intentional given the number of tourists who visit every year. The park officials probably just want to keep everyone in a limited area. I had originally hoped to trek to the summit but we just stuck to the west rim to save time for Pompeii. For those desiring more extensive hiking options I’d suggest buying the hiking map at the ticket booth. If I go back that’s what I would do. After absorbing some stunning views on Vesuvius we headed to Pompeii.

Pompeii was buried by Mt Vesuvius when it erupted in year 79 A.D. The city was covered by a lava flow very rapidly and remained preserved in suspended animation before being excavated during more recent times. What is left is the most well preserved example of an authentic Roman city. Stone streets with cart ruts, decorative paintings adorn various walls, marble columns, and a coliseum just to name a few of the elements. The area is quite large and there’s no lack of things to see. It definitely rates as one of those special archeological sites that must be visited in one’s lifetime and lives up to its hype.

Mt. Vesuvius and Pompeii - Photos

Italy - Living Easy

By spending time in Southern Italy with Frank and Anna and Anna’s family I’ve certainly fallen into the easy life. A nice comfortable place to stay, more delicious food than I can eat, and interesting sites to explore. The climate is warm but mild and sunny skies are the norm.

Yesterday we started off the day by visiting the local market where Anna purchased 10 kg of fresh Sardines along with clams. After that Frank and I checked out some Greek tunnels and Roman ruins dating back as far as 600 B.C... We returned to eat lots of the sardines and clams that Anna purchased at the morning market. The sardines in Italy are nothing like the fishy salty things you get in a can back in the states. Around 2 pm Frank and I took a train into the city of Naples where we walked around a bit.

What I like about Italy, more than other parts of Europe, is that’s it’s simply more interesting with its lively colorful people, architecture, and of course food. Beneath it all is a thick element of ancient Greek and Roman culture. The road you walk or drive upon could easily be more that two thousand years old. At one site of local ruins Frank told me how kids playing soccer use to kick up Roman coins.

Here are few photos.....

Naples, Italy

Here are a few photos I took while walking around Naples yesterday. The bay, the streets, a statue with graffiti, and a dog walker.....

In The South Of Italy

After a night in the Barcelona airport, on a comfortable padded lime green bench in an airport café, I caught my 7 am flight to Naples without a hitch. The trip from France to Italy went really smooth. The landing approach into Naples is one of the more interesting approaches I’ve experienced in a while. After crossing the Mediterranean the plane continues inland while descending. It then makes a low right banking turn into a mountain valley with Mt. Vesuvius on the right. The mountains almost seem dangerously close. I had a right side window seat which afforded a great view. The plane then continues to descend into the valley to land at the Naples international airport which only has one landing strip.

Stepping off the plane in Naples is a little like going back in time. There are no jet way enclosed concourses. Instead, an old fashioned stairway is rolled up and you step of on the tarmac. From there you are shuttled a short distance to a baggage claim in seat less bus while standing. The baggage claim area is cramped and the conveyor belts old and well used. Lots of people rush about and I’d say it’s an airport where you don’t want your bags sitting around for long. I grabbed my pack as soon as it came out. Apparently Naples has been talking about building a new airport for 30 years but for now the current airport will go on to serve the 3 million or so residents until who knows when.

I stepped out of the baggage claim into a busy waiting area and quickly found my Uncle Frank. We then walked over to café for coffee and a pastry. The counter staff was every bit Italian and very busy. Frank has spoken fluent Italian for as long as I remember and can naturally understand everything. In the process of getting our pastry and coffee the guy helping us had to stop and have a quick conversation with a friend about how he is working too much. The staff was quick, friendly, rude, disinterested, organized, disorganized, and happy but unhappy to serve. All at the same time. The gestures, the speech, the attitude all quintessential stereotypical Italian. We stood at the café counter otherwise you pay double to sit at a table. For Frank it was probably just Italy but for me I got a kick out it and was kind of amused by it all. It was a perfect introduction to southern Italy.

Southern Italy is very different from the north. The North is well laid out for the tourist. The pace is slower and more organized with spit and polish Tuscan villages, vineyards etc. The South is like a different country. From what I’ve seen so far it’s much more rough around the edges. There’s garbage everywhere and the atmosphere is more of a developing country as opposed to the north which is quite developed.
My aunt Anna is from Lago Patria which is a town on the Mediterranean and she owns a villa there. That’s where I’m staying. Most of her family still lives here and many are involved in running a hotel/restaurant that’s owned by the family. Anna is the oldest in a family of 10 brothers and sisters. Her father has passed but her mother is still going strong at 80. Frank first spotted Anna while stationed in the Navy in Naples. He was test riding a motorcycle in 1966 and saw Anna in front of the family run hotel while passing by. He knew at first sight that she would be the woman he would marry. Through a lengthy and persistent courting process he won her over and they were married in 1969. They continue to have a happy life together and have always made a good team. I consider them to be very lucky.

My first day in Lago Patria was spent meeting the family, eating some really good food, and catching up with Frank and Anna. The villa is quite modest and simple but very nice and comfortable with enough room for guests. Frank and Anna have been in the process of remodeling. It’s a two story building with a good sized courtyard and balcony. The balcony affords an open view across a farmland hayfield. The top story is fully refinished with 3 bedrooms and two baths, a nice sized living area and average sized kitchen. The courtyard is fully redone in traditional Italian style and is pleasantly inviting. The bottom portion of the building needs a lot of work but is perfectly suitable for a storage etc. The villa is located in a gated private park area with several other homes that are rented by Anna and her sister. The gate keeps the area particularly peaceful as there seems to be no shortage of riff raff in the area. All in all I really like it here and am very comfortable. In the days coming up I hope to check out a lot of the area at a relaxed pace.

As far my health goes I’m healing very quickly. My right eye is looking remarkably better. There’s definitely no infection and I’ll be off the antibiotics in a couple of days. I’m not supposed to get much sun while on the medication so by Friday I figure I’ll have a bit more freedom to get out more. I think my decision to come to Naples was the right thing to do for now and I'm happy to be here.

Leaving France for Naples

Monday - July 5, 2010

I spent 3 nights in Ciboure/St. Jean de Luc. My time there was spent mainly taking it easy. I felt excessively tired for the first two days after my fall and didn’t do much but walk around a little and sit in a plaza. The adjoining French Basque communities are lovely seaside fishing villages with nice beaches but the constant overcast skies added to my already gloomy mood. However, I slept really well and allowed my body to get the healing process started.

I had originally thought that after hiking in the Pyrenees I’d head to Naples, Italy to visit my Aunt and Uncle, Frank and Anna. My uncle Frank met Anna while serving in the Navy back in the 1960’s. They now have a place outside of Naples and have enthusiastically invited me to stay with them. Immediately after my accident Frank insisted I come for a visit right now. The timing is really good for a number of reasons so I’m on my way.

How to get from Ciboure/St. Jean de Luc? Originally I looked at the train. The train was quite roundabout and expensive. Buses? Couldn’t figure it out and know it would be a lengthy process. It was Sunday evening and I wanted to be rolling by Tuesday at the latest. Ideally I thought it would be nice to be on my way the next day, Monday. I was having language difficulties in trying to get good info and it being Sunday wasn’t helping so I got to work on the web. As always, last minute generally doesn’t afford good prices.

This time I found good success with Orbitz, a popular U.S. travel site. I was able to book two separate plane tickets for a total cost less than $250 USD. That along with $20 USD in bus fares and I’d be in Naples by 9 am Tuesday morning. Also, by booking through a US travel site I avoided overseas transaction fees. Not bad at all considering Naples is not a cheap place to get to. The train was actually more expensive and would have taken more time. The route I’m taking is a Bus from St Jean de Luc to Bilbao, Spain. From the bus station in Bilbao it’s another bus to the airport. From the airport it’s an hour flight to Barcelona. As I write this I’m sitting in the Barcelona airport. The only hitch is that my flight out of Barcelona to Naples is at 7 am. I arrived in Barcelona at 7 pm. The question is whether to take an hour bus ride into the city and stay at a hostel until 4 or 5 am and fiddle with getting back to the airport or just stay at the airport until my next flight. There is a 3rd option and that’s to pay for an expensive airport hotel but that’s not really an option in my book. From Barcelona it’s a 2 hour flight over the Mediterranean to Naples. I chose to stay at the airport.

I stashed my pack in a locker and have walked all over the very nice modern Barcelona airport. I now know where you can by the cheapest bottled water and where the quietest areas are. At some point I’ll doze off in a corner for awhile. If I wasn’t currently on antibiotics I’d probably have a couple of beers. I’ve withstood long layovers at the airport in the past and they’re generally aren’t as bad as anticipated. Needless to say I’ll be tired when I arrive in Italy but then it can be all about rest.

As far as my injuries go I seem to be healing quickly and my eye doesn’t appear infected. I don’t know how long it will be before right eye looks normal but the stitches should come out next Monday. I’m looking forward to visiting Frank and Anna. I really think it’s going to be a great and a good chance to experience some of real Italy. I intend to stay at least a week if not longer.

GR10 - Tripped Up and Down

On Friday, July, 2 I set out from the beach in Hendaye to start my hike across the Pyrenees. I started the day with James as the GR10 and HRP would be the same route for most of the day. The Skies were overcast but the temperature mild. It was actually pretty good walking weather minus some views. My pack felt heavy but nothing more than I can handle. It felt really good to be back on a long hike.

The GR10 doesn’t mess around when it comes to climbing and my legs were feeling as good and strong as ever. I was imagining how strong I’d be feeling after 6 weeks. It was going to be a great journey and I was totally up to it. I was still dealing with some residual after affects of my recent cold but it didn’t seem to be slowing me down.

The day was going well all day. I said goodbye to James at Col d’ Ibardin but since the HRP criss crosses the GR10 and we were on the same time frame I figured we would meet again. My destination for the night was a place called Olhette where there’s a Gite (Hut) that I planned to camp at. With 10 minutes of walking to go everything was going just fine until I mysteriously stumbled, tripped, and began to fall forward.

I didn’t have time to get my hands out in front of me and slammed hard into the rocky ground face first. I hit hard. I got up quickly and my adrenalin was really pumping. My face was dusty and bloody but I immediately and calmly washed with clean water from my water bottle. I didn’t feel like anything was broken but was concerned I might have a concussion. The good thing is I was thinking clearly and keeping calm even though the adrenalin was really going.

While I was sorting myself out to get out a local mountain running type showed up. He took one look at me and said, “Hospital”. He had a cell phone and although didn’t speak any English made it clear he would help me. It was about a 10 minute walk to his car where we waited another 15 minutes or so. I began to feel a little strange but I think it was just the adrenalin wearing off. It was good to have somebody watching after me though. Emt’s arrived and again no one spoke any English but they did understand Spanish. I was able to communicate a little with Spanish. They took my vital signs and said my blood pressure was very good.

I was taken to the hospital in St Jean du Loc. The EMT’s said goodbye and I was handed over to a very nice staff. The hospital was very quiet and remarkably peaceful. Probably about as pleasant as a hospital can be. Some English was spoken there and I felt communication was adequate. Everyone was very nice.

I wasn’t too thrilled about the 3 X-rays but what to do? Although the hospital was perfectly fine I’d question just how state of the art the equipment is. My wounds were cleaned and I received stitches above and below my right eye. I wasn’t exhibiting any symptoms of a concussion which was good and the X-rays were fine. In the end I was given a prescription for a 6 day round of antibiotics and told to rest for a few days and to return if I had any nausea etc.

The nurse found me a good economical hotel to stay at and ordered up a taxi. On the way to the Hotel the Taxi driver told me I would be very tired for a couple of days after such an accident. He also recommended I just rest for a couple of days. Yesterday is when I fell and today I’m now absolutely exhausted.

Needless to say this accident has been very disappointing but could have been a heck of a lot worse. I have literally hiked thousands of miles with a pack on my back so I guess sooner or later something like this is going to happen. For now hiking is really out of the question for a good week or so until I get the stitches removed and am off the antibiotics. I’ve been on the road now for 2 weeks and must say it’s been a bit of a roller coaster ride. This trip continues to have a much different tone from recent past adventures. It’s causing me to step back and wonder if I really should be traveling right now. If I’m not hiking and camping then Europe turns out to be excessively expensive for the amount of time I intend to be gone. However, experience has taught me to not rush into decisions when you’re not feeling well, are emotional etc. There’s a good chance I’ll cut this trip short but I intend to keep on keeping on for a while longer at least…… The plan is to see how it goes.

There’s not much likelihood of me returning the GR10 in a week or so. I’m kind of feeling like it’s just not meant to be for now.

Going For The GR10

I had a good night in Roscoff and quite liked the Brittany region of France but once again felt the urge to move on. It was then that I fully decided to give the GR10 a go. With goal in mind this trip instantly took on an exciting feel with a mission to walk across the Pyrenees from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. First I had to get out of Roscoff.

There’s not too many buses going in and out of Roscoff and the best I could do was 12 noon to the nearby town of Marilaux. From there I tried to book a train all the way to the Pyrenees but it was way too expensive so I settled for a short trip to Rennes. In Rennes I was able to book a much better trip to the Pyrenees region but I needed to stay a night in Rennes.

I can’t say I know much about Rennes but it’s a busy old city where most everyone seems to be about 22 years old. France must have had a baby boom around the late 80’s or early 90’s because there seems to be overabundance of people in their 20’s. I got a good look at the city on a 2 mile walk to a hostel. The streets were jammed packed with street vendors. The most I’ve ever seen on a Wednesday. The open air cafes were full of 20 something’s smoking and drinking. I continued just past the city center and found the hostel. It was nothing special but fine for a night. I was amused by a middle aged Frenchman staying there wearing a Sun Records t-shirt. He really couldn’t speak English but he started naming all the great names that recorded on Sun in the 1950’s. He was also able to communicate that he had actually visited the studios. As a record collector I got a kick out of his enthusiasm and wondered if he may have ever been an Ebay customer of mine?

I had to get an early start out of Rennes to catch a bus and two trains to Pyrenees. I observed a couple of street people, right outside the hostel breakfast room window sleeping under a tree, as I enjoyed a morning baguette. One night in Rennes was definitely enough. It was bus to Nante then a train to Bordeaux where I missed my connection to Biarritz. One hour, one baguette and I was another train to Biarritz. It was then that I realized I really needed to go further beyond Biarritz to Hendaye. It was only another 40 or 50km so I just stayed on the train and got out at Hendaye. Nobody seems to check tickets on French trains anyway.

The train station in Hendaye is about 2 miles from the nearest campground. It’s funny how in France I always arrive 2 miles from where I’m staying for the night. On the walk into town I met some other people who had just arrived and are traversing the Pyrenees.

There are 3 hiking routes. The Pyrenees form a border long France and Spain. The GR10 traverses on the French side. The GR11 traverses on the Spanish Side. The HRP, known as the “Haute (high) Route” traverses closer to the crest of the range and goes in and out of both countries.

One of the people I met was James from England. He was heading to the campground as well. I always seem to get along well with British walkers. James was setting out for the HRP the next day. The campground in Hendaye was very nice an peaceful. I considered taking a day off there but knew I’d be anxious to move on the next day. At this point I was fully committed and really excited to be doing the GR10. It would certainly be an adventure and one of the more significant hikes I’ve done in a long time.

In the evening James and I went out for a big meal. Spirits were high…

On To France

On Tuesday June, 29 I hopped the ferry in Plymouth, England for a 7 hour voyage to Roscoff in the Brittany region of France. I was feeling better and thinking clearer. Before I even left for this trip I had been toying quite seriously with the idea of taking on the GR10 in the French Pyrenees. It’s an approximate 600 mile 6 week trek. I considered my equipment appropriately before leaving so I’d be fully prepared to take on the challenge. The decision not to walk the Cornwall coast path actually set me up better for the GR10. The GR10 can be quite taxing and having more than enough time is a good idea.

It was an easy train trip from St. Ives to Plymouth. Yes, the Plymouth that the original American Pilgrims set off from. On the train ride from St. Ives I seriously questioned why I was leaving lovely Cornwall but I was definitely driven to move. My ferry was due to take off at 8am so I booked an inexpensive B&B located a 10 minute walk from the Plymouth ferry terminal. As in the past I’ve found that B&B’s can be a really good value in the UK. I paid 30 pounds ($45 USD) for a really nice room, a proper full English breakfast, and friendly helpful hospitality.

The ferry ride was a breeze. Smooth sailing on a very large boat with very few people. It was a French boat and the reasonably price food was some of the best boat food I’ve ever had. Once in Roscoff I walked through story book streets, just like you would expect in France, and continued on for a couple of miles to a campground. The campground was pretty nice and next to a beach. Town was a bit far to walk back to for dinner so I just walked along the beach until I came to an open air restaurant. Nice view, seemingly reasonable prices, and nowhere else nearby so I stopped.

There were two people working at the restaurant and just a few customers. The waitress was middle aged woman with a hyper personality and every bit French. The cook/chef looked like he was in the zone and very concentrated on the task at hand, cooking. I couldn’t understand much of the menu so I just ordered. A nice German couple arrived and sat next to me. They spoke pretty good English. I ordered a large beer. The Germans ordered beer and wine. I sat back and enjoyed the view while conversing with my new German friends. A beer arrived. A little while later a bread basket arrived. A little while later a large empty bowl arrived. A little more time passed and a very large bowl of mussels with curry mint sauce showed up on my table along with a plate of French Fries. As it turned out I had ordered a traditional local dish and couldn’t see how I was going to eat so many mussels, however, I did. They were absolutely excellent. The Germans food arrived and contrary to what you might thing the portions were huge Texas sized. The chef came by and personally asked us if everything was ok which was a nice touch. Everyone appeared very happy with the food.

After dinner I noticed the waitress was getting more and more wired. She seemed quite stressed waiting on 8 or so people. She frantically cleared a table as if there were a line to get in, but there wasn’t, and broke some dishes in the process. She rushed over to clear the Germans table for desert and spilt glasses. Fortunately it was just water and not the wine. Not sure what the rush was? I have noticed though how a lot of French people have a quick and jumpy way of doing things. It took quite awhile to pay but everyone was smiles. Dinner turned out to be pleasantly quirky French experience.

With a stomach full of mussels and a good campsite I thought more and more about the GR10 and going for it. I had originally backed off from the idea because I thought 6 weeks would be too long and that certain sections might not really appeal to me but as a long distance hiker there’s a real attraction to walking from point A to Z………