Life - Let It Happen

If you try and plan everything in life there’s a really good chance you’re going to miss out on a lot. I left Nazareth for the Sea of Galilee with a three day walk ahead of me. On the third day I met Peter from Holland who had done the same but was back tracking a small section to walk over a mountain he had bypassed.

In Tiberias I met Peter again and we decided to meet up the following day to check out a baptismal site on the Jordan River. The next day he rented a car and invited me to join him for a ride around Golani Heights. I have continued to travel with him since. Three days total thus far.

Peter is a museum director from the Amsterdam area whose wife and two kids granted him permission to travel for 5 weeks. He’s in-between jobs and just turned 50. Our mutual interest in hiking and travel makes for easy conversation over beers and coffee. His thick Dutch accent complimented with occasional mispronunciations of English words coupled with an overall general fascination with just about everything makes him a colorful character to travel with. He occasionally comes across as a Dutch version of Peter O’toole minus the heavy drinking.

While still in the Golani Heights we stopped at one of the many wineries unfazed by the Syrian war just a few miles away. From Tibeiras we paused in the Jewish Golani stronghold of Tsaft for some of the worst coffee I have ever had. Why we didn’t say anything I don’t know but conversation was good. Lunch along on the Mediterranean after stopping at a Mosque in Akko.  In Netanya we haggled with a desk agent named Sveltlana for a room in a tired old beachside hotel which stood up to it’s slogan of being the best location. That evening we sat out on a plaza while Peter smoked cigars and some old lady picked up our empty beer bottles. We watched old French and Russians walk by as Peter frequently commented, “Israel, what a strange Place”. After a morning swim in the Mediterranean it was an afternoon drive for an evening float upong the Dead Sea. This morning we walked in the dark to see the sunrise from the top of Masada.

I planned none of this and it’s all worked out perfectly. Life, let it happen…..

Notes From The Israeli - Syrian Border

It may seem foolish to pick up a plain clothes hitchhiker with a military automatic weapon in his hand but that’s just what we did. We, was me and Peter, a Dutch man nearly the same age as myself that I had recently met. He had just rented a car and invited me to join him for a drive around the Golan Heights in a region north of the Sea of Galilee.

The young man we had just picked up is a soldier in the Golani Brigade, an elite branch of the Israeli army. He was trying to get back to his post on the Israeli/Syrian border after having some time off. His English name is Jacob.

Peter joked that we were going to Syria and Jacob quickly informed us that there was a war going on. I let Jacob in on the joke before real conversation began. From that point Peter and I had all kinds of questions as we took brief stops to take photos of relics of wars past, overgrown bunkers, an abandoned mosque, and a monument.

We offered to take Jacob to wherever he needed to go. In return he offered to show us an old abandoned lookout from the 1973 Yom Kippur war near his current post.

The lookout was very interesting with Syrian border extremely close. A string of villages now occupied by rebel forces were only a mile away as a crow flies. A tall sturdy tight mesh like metal fence backed by a thin strip of land to act as a buffer creates the border. We asked Jacob if it was safe for us to be there and he said it was. Peter and I thus ran around taking pictures of the border, bunker and an old tank. Jacob took the time to change into his official uniform and made a couple of calls from his cell phone.

Jacob’s post sits on a hill overlooking the area that we had stopped. While he was on the phone he asked his commander if it would be ok for us to visit the base.  Remarkably we were granted permission. It was very rare and lucky opportunity. Good timing I suppose. Jacob was very appreciative of helping him get back to his post and commented, “You help me, I help you”.

As we neared the post in Peter’s dorky red rental Fiat two Army vehicles raced down and blocked our way. They wanted to know why we were taking pictures at the abandoned bunker and border. Once they saw Jacob in the backseat he explained that everything was fine. A little further up we met the gate and entered the mountain top Golani Brigade compound.

At that point it was kind of surreal and I felt like a Journalist as we were introduced to several soldiers. An American named Harrison from Philadelphia with dual Israeli/American citizenship and serving in the Israeli Army was assigned to shows us around. We were welcome but pictures were not allowed. It was the real deal.

Harrison first told us about the current conflict just over the border where a lot of the fighting is going on at night. The Rebels have currently pushed the Syrian Army north and have taken hold of several villages. Most all of the civilians have fled. At night the Israeli soldiers can see, hear, and feel the fighting but are not attacked. On a couple of occasions when artillery has fallen close to their base apologies were immediately issued by Syrian forces with the incidents claimed to be accidental. Syrian fighters are afraid that if the Israeli army is convinced they are being attacked that they will call in the Air Force which would be bad for all those on the Syrian side. Israeli forces are instructed not to fire unless being fired upon.

Harrison took us to the lookout tower were I was allowed to look over the border with high power field glasses. I could see bombed out buildings with hardly anyone about. I did see one person walking around and what appeared to be a kid on bike. It all looked very spooky.

We were shown some of their weapons including different guns and a rocket launcher, etc. During that time I met a Nigerian and a Russian, both serving in the Israeli Golani Brigade.

I was impressed by Harrison who was very articulate and professional with a charisma and maturity that comes out of leaving the comfort and safety America to stand up for something he really believes in. A rare trait.

Jacob had asked me if I supported the Israeli Army because a lot of Americans don’t. Harrison explained the moral code of the Israeli Army. He along with a couple of other soldiers voiced their disappointment of how they are at times negatively portrayed in the news. One voiced his frustration of having to endure more danger than they should have to in order to uphold the moral code. I told Jacob that I supported the Israeli Army. 

The situation in Israel, as everyone says, is complicated. My feeling is that without the presence of a strong Israeli Army there would be a loss of order and a greater instability to the Middle East with no safe place for the Jewish people in the region. Today, Israel does not get the kind of allied support that it use to. In my opinion, if Israel were to fall tomorrow, the world would not be a better place.

Towards the end of our visit Harrison tactfully explained the duty of one Soldier's responsibility at the base of boosting moral and said that anything we could do to help would be greatly appreciated. I got the hint right away and said we would be happy to make a donation for the next party. With that we wrapped up the tour and Harrison made it a point to mention how lucky we were to get in. He said the week prior that a former Israeli Air Force Officer and an Oxford Professor were turned away and not allowed entry.

In the end I was very impressed by the troops and their post. I could sense the camaraderie and see an element of what comes out of necessity and not just by choice. It is a requirement of Israeli’s to serve in the Army and almost all do without question because they know it’s vital to their sovereignty and independence as a Nation. It’s not all about self. It’s about society as a whole.

 

 

Jesus Trail

I walked out of Nazareth and into the Arab village of Mash’had as prayer was starting. Everything was quiet with only the voice of prayer blaring from speakers perched atop a Mosque. I paused to take a photo of the Mosque when a piece of broken wood with a nail in it slammed into the pavement right before me. It had obviously been thrown but I couldn’t tell from exactly where. I assumed it was the building to my left. I took off running to avoid any other potential danger and saw it as a warning to get out. I wasn’t welcome in the village.

At that point my adrenalin was going. As I began to exit the village two boys with something small in their hand stared at me. I think it was something from a plant but I couldn’t tell. I just wanted to get out of the village. One kid abruptly put it up to my face but I kept moving. The other boy threw something that hit my pack as I passed. I just kept going. Once out of the village I crossed an open area to reach the adjacent village of Cana. Two other guys tried to stop me and were asking for something in Hebrew or Arabic. I kept walking but they were persistent. When I hollared back at them, “I don’t understand”. They backed right off. It was as if they realized I was not Israeli so they weren’t going to bother men.

This all happened on, “The Jesus Trail”. Google it. It’s a well known hiking route and according to the numerous Israeli’s I asked everyone said it was perfectly safe to do. I assumed it was kind of popular but during the three days It would take to complete I would only see one other person doing it.

When I arrived in Cana I was a little rattled and went into an Orthodox Greek Church to avoid being bothered and inquired if the Jesus Trail was indeed safe. I found a priest at the church and told him what happened. He asked me what I was doing there and that I shouldn’t have been in that village. He also stated that they were Muslims that didn’t like Christians. He said the Muslims in Cana were ok and that I would not have any more problems once out of Cana.

I decided to continue but at a quick pace. I wasn’t in the mood to hang out in Cana either. I hustled thru with no problems. Just a bunch of hello’s from kids that I assume were nothing more than hello’s. A few miles out of Cana I began to relax and feel ok as I hiked thru forests and agricultural plots. I steadily pressed on to a Goat Farm with a Jewish Israeli Eco camp right next to a military installation. I knew I’d be safe there.

The Israeli’s at the Goat Farm were surprised to hear what happened and said it was a rare incident. However, upon further conversation they did admit that they would never go to Mash’had or Cana, especially alone. Go figure. Just like anywhere you have good neighborhoods and bad neighborhoods. It’s just a little different in Israel.

At the farm I pitched my tent in the company of about 30 others. It was a group of kids out of high school who are taking an organized year off before going into the military. In Israel this is an option for those not wanting to fulfill their military obligation right away. A gap year consists of travel, classes, etc.,. Currently they are doing a lot of hiking.

Well, if getting a piece of wood with a nail thrown at you is one extreme the graciousness of the gap year group was another. They couldn’t have been a nicer bunch. About 10 of them separately invited me to join them for song and a Shabbat meal. Regrettably I had already arranged for dinner with the farm but I did join them afterwards for song and fellowship. They were all very nice and curious about my visiting Israel, hiking the Jesus trail, and being from Texas. I was quite impressed by the group and its leaders.

The next day was a great day of hiking. I didn’t see anyone as I passed through forests, open range, agricultural lands and a Kibbutz. I climbed  up and over the mountain ridge known as the Horns of Hattin where the Crusaders fought some bloody battle in the 1100’s. From there I could see the Sea of Galilee.

The sun had been blaring all day with temperatures hot but not unbearable. Later in the afternoon I arrived in Moshav Arbel on the slopes of Mt Arbel. I booked a room at a guest house with a dorm which turned out to be an apartment. I had the place to myself for a hostel bed price. The village and its environs along with its owners is all very French. I asked the owners where they were from originally and they replied Israel. They poured me a pitcher of Lemonade. I quickly drank the whole thing and they refilled it again.

My night at the guest house in Moshav Arbel was the best nights rest I’ve had while in Israel. I slept really well. I would have taken a rest day there but they were booked for the next night so I had to move on.

From the guest house I proceeded up to the top of Mt Arbel to a formal National Park entrance. Often times if you’re a hiker passing through on foot with a big backpack, entrance to a national park is free. It depends on the park and country. At Mount Arbel you pay 22 shekels regardless to enter the park unless you hike up the other side which is free. I asked if there was a discount for a Jesus Trail Hiker. The park attendant gave me a stern faced NO.

The rocky ridgeline of Mt Arbel offers some great views of the Sea of Galilee. The south slope is fairly gradual with a road going most of the way to the top. The north side is a long cliff band full of caves and ruins of a castle. The descent of the north side is rugged and steep with iron hand holds placed in the rock for safety. It was slow going with my big pack but I took my time and paused to check out the castle built into the cliff side.

From Mt Arbel it was a hot walk under intense sun to the Sea of Galilee. I passed through all kinds of agricultural plots consisting of olives, oranges, mangos, bananas, etc. The mangos and bananas surprised me the most. I intended to camp at a campground on the lake but when I arrived it didn’t appeal to me so I pressed on.

While stopping at a roadside falafel stand, along the way, a seeming surly looking individual struck up a conversation with me. He proved to be a very nice gentleman and was curios about my travels in Israel. He suggested I inquire at one of the Churches ahead as they would sometimes put up pilgrims walking from Nazareth. He also said something to the affect of sending Jesus his regards.

On the spot believed to be where Jesus ate with his disciples after the resurrection and bestowed leadership of the church to Peter is a place known as, “The Church of the Primacy of St Peter”. It’s a lovely spot right next to the water.

I arrived there later in the afternoon a little unsure as to what I was going to do for the night. A monk was standing just outside the quaint church. I asked if he might know of a place I could stay. He replied that all he spoke was Italian and Spanish. Well, I know how to find a place for the night in Spanish. I partially understood his suggestion that I ask the sisters next door at a monestary. As I began to walk away he had a better idea and talked with the caretaker. The caretaker was a 30’s something Polish man who spoke English. He said he could offer me a room for the night. I was then shown to a small building set aside for private visitors. Needless to say I was very appreciative! It reminded me of something that would happen on the Camino in France or Spain.

When the gate closed at five I had the grounds to myself and spent the evening by the water. I did see two other people that evening. They were an Arab Palestinian Christian couple who are nurses at a Christian hospital in Nazareth. The husband was a man of few words but the wife was extremely friendly and nice. I joined them for a while and tried inquiring about what it was like being an Arab Palestinian Christian in Nazareth which is 70% Muslim. The wife just kind of laughed and said it was complicated but not a problem. I hear that a lot in Israel whenever asking Israelis about politics or religion, “It’s complicated”. That’s about all I get.

In the morning I tried to leave a donation at the church for the accommodation but it was refused. I then hiked up to Mt of Beatitudes where it's believed Jesus preached the Sermon on the Mount. Well, Mt of the Beatitudes is a nice hill that could be the place but no one really knows for sure. There's a nice church there now. Evidence also suggests that the Horns of Hattin or Mount Arbel could be the place which is much more fitting in a Hollywood sense based on location.

From there I proceeded on to Capernaum, the end of the 60+ km Jesus trail. I asked a tourist from the Philippines to take my photo amidst the ruins of a 4^th century synagogue built upon the ruins of Jesus Synagogue.

I essentially covered the trail and its sites in 3 1/2 days. The first day wasn’t very enjoyable for obvious reasons but the following two days were quite nice. The first day out of Nazareth is somewhat blah. There’s a fair amount of road walking and the Arab villages are kind of dirty with outlying garbage dumps. A few miles out of Cana it gets nicer and once in the vicinity of Galilee things take on a European feel. Bus loads of Christians from all over the world buzz around to the various religious sites and things appear to be run at a higher standard.

After a nice rest break in Capernaum I backtracked a couple of miles and caught a bus into Tiberius.

Haifa

You meet all types traveling. I only spent one night in Jerusalem after returning from Jordan and left for Haifa the next morning. The night before and after the Jordon trip I took a bed in a four person mixed dorm at Abraham Hostel. The Hostel, although a bit institutional, is set in a great location and offers a lot for the budget backpacker style traveler. I’ve stayed in many hostels and most of the time they are ok if not surprisingly good. However, sometimes you wind up sharing a room with a strange bird.

The first time I checked in there was only one other person in the room. It was a middle aged American who looked very Middle Eastern and had an unusual name that I didn’t really catch. He had a slim build, dark skin, sculpted facial features and wore a stylish star of David necklace. He stated that he was from Arizona and was very nice and friendly. He immediately struck up a conversation but I couldn’t really follow all that he was saying. I took him for being a New Age philosophical type. He struck me as being a bit odd and harmless but made me a little uncomfortable at the same time. He was one of those types who will latch on to anyone who will listen and can be hard to get away from once he starts talking. What annoyed me most, during one conversation, was how he would poke me on the shoulder as an expression when making a point.

Later that evening a woman booked on the Jordan trip checked in kind of late but I figured it would be a decent night’s sleep before getting up at 6 am. At half past midnight someone checked in for the 4^th bed and quickly dozed off into a snore with coughs in between. I noticed the odd American was not around. He showed up very late and fell asleep in his clothes.

The second time I checked in the snorer was gone but the odd American was still there with his three large duffle bags wearing the same clothes. He had told me before that he has dual citizenship and is in the process of moving to Israel. There were also two new Asian guys who were totally cool. They were the kind of people you want to meet in a hostel. The three of us went to sleep at a reasonable time.

About 3:30 am the odd American comes in and starts going through all of his stuff seemingly for no real important reason before retreating to the bathroom then his stuff again. This went on until around 5 am when he went to asleep in his clothes. After about 3 or 4 hours he got up as I was preparing to leave. Needless to say when I got very little sleep the two nights I stayed in a shared dorm in Jerusalem and the peculair roommate had me motivated to move on.

Jerusalem has an intense vibe and one I can’t say feels all that comfortable to me. I suppose it just takes some getting use to. My friend Alon says he doesn’t feel it at all but he grew up there. There still remains some sites I’d like to see in the Jerusalem area so I’ll likely return for a couple of more nights at some point in the next couple of weeks.

In Jerusalem I hopped an express bus to Haifa, back to the coast, north of Tel Aviv. It took less than two hours. The bus dropped me on the outskirts of town. It was a little confusing as to which local bus to take to reach the general vicinity of where I wanted to stay but I figured it out. I hadn’t booked anything and planned to walk around with my Lonely Planet guidebook for accommodation.

I got off in an area known as German Colony with a row of limestone buildings housing hotels and street side bar restaurants. Above the German colony is the very impressive Bahai Gardens that stretch up the side of a large hill known as Mt. Carmel. Just below German colony is the port area.

My Lonely Planet guidebook directed me to a quiet side street with a guest house run by Nuns. They were full so I went across the road to a guesthouse with and unimpressive front. What sold me was the hidden courtyard which gives it a nice charm. No dorm for me. 220 Shekels ($65 usd) got me a very nice clean room with all the amenities. It’s also very quiet.

Today I went on a long walk through Haifa amidst the Bahai Gardens and over to the Maritime Museum to check out an old Israeli submarine.

I especially liked the Bahai Gardens. In a nutshell the Bhai Faith is head quartered in Haifa. Bahai’s are an all-inclusive sort of religion that believes all of the great religious figures, be it Mohammad, Jesus, etc appeared as the right teacher for the time. Bhai is fairly new and wasn't founded until the mid 1800’s to signal in the coming of another great teacher. The garden grounds house a temple in honor of the leading founder as well as some impressive looking administrative buildings. It's all built in a terraced fashion up the side of Mt Carmel rising near its top. The variety of plants, trees, cactus and flowers are very diverse. Everything is maintained immaculately.

Aside of the Bahai Gardens Haifa is a small port city, a working town. A day is enough to see pretty much all one would want to see. It’s a mix of Arab’s and Jews that seem to get along just fine but aren’t particularly friendly. When it comes to social graces Israeli’s are a mixed bag. Some are as friendly and helpful as can be, most are ok, and some are kind of rude, even if they are working in the service industry. Many Israeli’s could stand to improve their customer service skills.

Tomorrow it’s a short trip to Nazareth where I’ll be getting into the Jesus thing for a few days by roughly retracing some of his steps.

Jordon - Mixt Photos

Jerusalem - Mixt Photos

Jordan - Petra

I couldn’t resist the two day trip to Jordon and Petra via the Abraham Hostel Tours in Jerusalem. I’m generally not one for group excursions but sometimes it just makes sense depending on what you want to do and what country you are traveling in. At times border crossings, transportation issues, language difficulties, cultural misunderstandings and the hassle factor can negate any chance of saving money by doing it on your own. Everything can take considerably more time to do. Jordon, considered safe, still poses some security risks in my opinion.

So, I booked the trip and showed up for the bus with about 30 others at 7 am. Our first hurdle was the Israeli border into Jordon. As a group we were left up to own devices, without a guide,  to check out of Israel. Only those departing the country are allowed into the immigration building. There was a little confusion at first but we all figured it out and made it through after a bit of time. Upon reaching the Jordanian side we were met by a guide who led us through process. Three of us had been left off the group manifest which created some issues but our guide took care of it. All in all the he border process was kind of a lengthy hassle but not too bad. We rolled into Jordan with guide, an armed policeman assigned to the group for the whole time, and a very skilled bus driver.

From Jerusalem we had crossed through the Palestinian West Bank into Jordon. The first couple of border villages on the Jordanian side were poor, rough, and third world dodgy. A pack of young school boys were walking down the street as if they were going to block the bus. As we reached them they parted. Some appeared to give a friendly wave while others spit and threw things at the bus and/or displayed vulgar hand signals. Some of the kids were quite young which was disturbing to say the least. My first impression of the people of Jordon was not good. Fortunately, it was only at the border villages that I noticed such behavior. The rest of the time the Jordanian people seemed fine. The Bedouin tribes people I was to meet were exceptionally hospitable and friendly. Our guide was very nice and professional.

t was a long climb out of the Jordon valley which is 1300 feet below sea level. The road is pretty decent but steep and narrow in sections. We ascended up through olive groves interspersed with oak trees and open views. I found it to be really beautiful country.

Our first stop was Jerash and lunch before visiting the Roman ruins of Old Jerash with it’s Roman racetrack, arched gate, roads and amphitheaters. Our guide moved us through the fairly extensive complex at a nice pace. From there it was on to Amman, Jordan’s major city where we visited the Citadel which is an ancient Roman fort set atop a mount in the middle of it all. The views of the city are fantastic. With the day getting late we pressed on to Petra where stayed in tents at a Bedouin tourist camp. We arrived at the desert camp around 11 pm. It backed up to a rock face lit up by numerous lights. We were served Bedouin tea around a fire with traditional live music before a nice dinner. The camp atmosphere was very pleasant. It would have been nice to have arrived earlier to enjoy it more. Unfortunately we had lost quite a bit of time at the border which set us behind schedule.

The Crown Jewel of Jordan is the Roman ruins of Petra and my main reason for wanting to visit Jordan. Petra is a Roman city built into red sandstone cliffs. The complex is suspected of being started could as early as 300 B.C. and consists of numerous caves and impressive facades. One site in particular was used in an Indiana Jones movie.

We got a nice early start for Petra which gave us a good 6 hours to hike around. We were free to take off on our own, as I did, or you could follow the guide. Most visitors travel a little over a mile via foot, camel, horse, or cart to see the most famous site, “The Treasury”, as seen in the Indians Jones Movie and a not much further beyond. From where most turn around you can continue another mile or so uphill to a site known as, “The Monastery”. Beyond that you can continue up a little further to a couple of high points atop a ridge to get some spectacular views. I’d say 6 hours is a minimum but a good amount of time to check things out.

Petra extends more or less through a red sandstone canyon with swaths of darker reds turned brown along with swirls of gray that look like marble from a distance. Local Bedouin tribe’s people set up rustic little coffee, tea, and souvenir shops all along the way that adds to the atmosphere.

Petra is a designated Unesco World Heritage Site which draws the tourist but it appears to be managed well. Despite large numbers of visitors the place remains spectacular and it really doesn’t detract from the experience too much if you are willing to walk a little further than most. I enjoyed it greatly and consider it to be one of the coolest sites I’ve been to.

From Petra it was a long trip back to Jerusalem. Checking out of Jordon was pretty easy. Getting back into Israel was a mess. First we passed through several checkpoints and gates before reaching immigration. Two large busses with mostly Arab Muslims, most who didn’t know how to stand in line, were challenging each other for the only open window. Another bus showed up behind us. Eventually the Israelis opened two more windows for a total of three. As I neared the window a couple of guys butted right in front of  me and threw their passports on the counter I immediately spoke up and the Immigration officer caught what was going on thus scolding them. A couple of other guys walked up and did the same thing but I noticed they had official looking Palestinian Territory passports. I sensed they were government officials so I didn’t say anything. Eventually I made it to the counter and thus began the questioning but not too bad.

From there it was a security check. Poorly managed and understaffed, however, everything looked like it was being checked. I had some problems getting passed the brash guard but cooperated fully as we determined the metal lace loops on my boots were setting off the metal detector. I then proceeded through 2 more passport checks. One officer seemed genuinely interested in my travels with my colorful passport stamps as he would like to do the same. Finally, out the door to a bus that was waiting for us. Everyone made it through except for 3 who were being detained. The bus left without them. Two being detained were a Canadian couple with Pakistani Muslim last names. They were an extremely nice couple who I had talked with earlier in the day. The husband is a prominent Oncologist from Toronto, however, profiling as practiced by Israeli immigration, was not in their favor. Our guide on the Israeli side said it was normal for some people in the group to be detained at the crossing. We were all given transportation vouchers beforehand just in case.

Eventually we made it back to the Hostel after a jam packed 2 day blitz through Jordan. With exit and entry taxes plus the price of the trip it wasn’t cheap but worth every penny. It seemed like everyone felt the same, however, not sure I can speak for those detained at the border.

 

 

 

Hezekiah's Tunnel - Jerusalem

 

I had no idea that on May 16, 2014 I’d be walking through an underground tunnel in Jerusalem built as an aqueduct sometime around the 6^th or 7^th century B.C.,. When I bought my ticket for entry I didn’t really know what I was getting into. However, getting my feet wet, literally, was totally worth it for a 533 meter shuffle thru water and ancient darkness.

Hezekiah's Tunnel was built to supply water to Jerusalem during a time when they were worried about being attacked by the Assyrians. The Bible makes references and historians form hypothesis but one thing is for sure, it’s ancient and interesting.

At first the tunnel is a little intimidating. Those visiting the City of David have an option of passing through Hezekiah’s tunnel which is long and wet, or, a much shorter Canaanite tunnel which is dry. The majority of tourist choose the Canaanite option.

At the entry point of the two tunnels I met up with a large German tour group that was taking the Canaanite tunnel and a single American traveler looking for company to go down the long Hezekiah’s tunnel. He only had one tiny flashlight and was not only looking for company but a backup light source. I picked up a cheap key ring led light for 5 shekels and we were on our way.

The deepest water is at first step which is about thigh deep. From there it’s below the knee. The tunnel varies in width and height but it’s pretty tight the whole way and you have to walk hunched over most of the way as it snakes around. The darkness is total without a light and those who suffer from any form of claustrophobia might suffer an anxiety attack. Since we were the only two passing through at the time I was happy to have the company and really got into the marvel of it all. It was kind of like caving but without the Bats.

At the end of the tunnel the water flows into an open pool where we saw some Hassidic Jews washing in the water. The City of David is in an Arab section of Jerusalem. The walk up a steep hill back to where we began looked a little third worldly.

Jerusalem is an ancient City of converging contrasts. Old Jerusalem, although, old is not really ancient. Much of the architecture is medieval and looks 11^th to 12^th century on. Original buildings have decayed, burned, been destroyed, and re-built over and over. The authentic ancient settlements are all buried below what now exists. Buildings, Mosques, Churches, and Synagogues are constructed in approximation of where they once were or where events may have happened. Although there is no doubt the general geographical location is where history took place I am more inclined to view historic locations as monuments for what took place in the vicinity.

Jerusalem definitely has a different vibe from Tel Aviv. Whereas Tel Aviv felt like a European beach resort Jerusalem has an intensity that takes some getting use to. It’s a converging point of Jewish, Arab Muslim, and Christian minority functioning within a Jewish state. It’s also a melting pot of people who have immigrated from all over the world due to faith based reasons. I find the Israeli’s to be easy to get on with but the Arab’s are a little more edgy to deal with.

For the last three days I have been staying with my friend Alon at his parents place in a suburb of Jerusalem which is set upon a hillside with a fabulous view towards Tel Aviv right next to the West Bank. His parents are returning tonight so I will move to a hostel within the city of Jerusalem this afternoon. At this point I am debating going to Jordon for a couple of days, mainly to see Petra. With border fees, transportation etc I am inclined to sign on for a tour to avoid hassle or any other potential problems.

Jerusalem

When passing through the fortress walls and onto the streets of Jerusalem it sort of reminded me of Las Vegas. In Vegas you have to walk past the slot machines and gambling tables to get to check in. In Jerusalem you have to walk narrow streets lined with tourist shops before arriving at the holy sites. Some shops are strongly aimed at selling fine quality made in China souvenirs while others shops in the less touristy areas are legitimate businesses offering anything from a haircut to house paint.

Old Jerusalem is divided into 4 quarters, Muslim, Christian, Jewish and Armenian. It all blends together to make it one of the, if not, holiest places in the world. As I rounded a corner into a plaza, not really sure of where I was, I sensed a very strong feeling. It kind of surprised me and made a quite an impression. I felt a strange emotional rush of sorts. I then got my bearings and realized I was at the Church of the Holy Sepulchure. The church is relatively understated for what it is compared to the grand cathedrals of Europe.  In my general wing it fashion I really didn’t know much about it. As I walked in I was drawn to a shrine like tomb below a tall domed ceiling with a open center. It was then that I put it all together. I browsed my guidebook and asked a couple of question. I was standing directly on the spot that is believed to be the place where Jesus was crucified and rose again. It is also believed that his remains are on that very spot today, thus the tomb. You can call it truth, myth, legend, etc. but one thing is sure, beneath the veil of tourism something very powerful exists in ancient Jerusalem.

My trip from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem was a breeze. A few shekels and less than an hour got me to the central bus station. From the bus station I made my way to the prominent Crowne Plaza Hotel. Not to check in but to leave my pack with Aviad before roaming the streets for a few hours. Aviad is a bellman who is friends with a man named Alon who I met 3 years ago while traveling in China.

I met Alon in Chengdu as we were staying at the same place. He had finished his 3 years as a combat commander for the Israeli Army and was happy to get away from Gaza and Israel for a while. Before his travels he worked one year at the Crowne Plaza. While in China we shared good conversation over several breakfasts, coffees an beers and kept in touch through Facebook.

When Alon got off work he picked me up at the Crowne Plaza and made our way to a Suburb of Jerusalem to stay at his parents place with a stop at a bar on the way. If you want an accurate and in depth explanation on what the situation in Israel is, have a pint with Alon. For me the Middle East situation is kind of hard to wrap my head around. I live in a large very diverse city with a large minority population that no longer seems like a minority. Everyone mixes and everyone gets along.

In Israel you see Muslims and Jews mix well in places but then you have the issues with the West Bank and Gaza. Emotions run deep, issues are complex, and compromise with trust is very shaky. Within Israel, Palestinian communities who are willing to compromise and form good relations prosper as well as the rest of Israel. The government invests money in these kind of communities and will help build mosques etc.

In my opinion, with the brief time I've spent here, there seems to be a different mindset. Whereas the Jewish Israelis have more of a Western European approach to organization and government the Muslim factions may be a little more ideological and emotional towards making decisions. How is it that one culture, left unhindered to their own devices, prospers while another culture in similar circumstances struggles? Needless to say, leadership has to play a big role.

Today, I walked around Jerusalem and into Old Jerusalem down the road that is believed to be the path that Jesus dragged his cross. From there I spent the afternoon on the Mt. Of Olives. Oh, I almost forgot. I also spent time at the Western Wall....

Shalom From Tel Aviv!

Right about the time I’ve finished writing a post for today’s blog my computer crashed and threw it all away. The unfortunate thing is that it was one of those posts that flowed nicely and quickly. Why did the computer crash. Who knows? It’s frustrating to say the least. Yesterday’s challenges were greater though. I was locked out of my blog and the only way to get in was via a code sent to my cell phone packed away in a box back in Texas. Luckily my father was able to help me as I directed him via a Skype call. Needless to say my inspiration for a wit right now has been dampened due to technical difficulties.

I started my second day of Jet lag recovery with a run along the waterfront to the north. Yesterday I ran south to Yaffa. This was followed by a healthy lunch of lentil, couscous, and many veggies tossed before my eyes in a mix of olive oil and vinegar. It’s very easy to eat healthy in Israel. Middle East Mediterranean food sits well at a reasonable price.

I certainly picked a nice time to be in Tel Aviv. The weather is absolutely perfect and I’ve been drawn to spending most of my time on the beach. Tomorrow I plan to head up to Haifa but I could easily stay another night in Tel Aviv. I’ll see how I feel when the sun rises tomorrow.

Last night I wandered through some of the more trendy popular areas where bars were packed with a younger crowd even though it was a Monday night. Israeli's appear to be very social amongst one another. I suppose it’s the mandatory military service and unique situation is which they live. Most travel for a year or two after serving two years in the military. Military comes right after high school. In general they seem to have a pretty broad world view. Tonight I’ll join a group of local travelers at a bar via the website “Couchsurfing”. It’s kind of an underground social network for meeting and hosting like minded traveling folks..

Back In Action - First Stop - The Holy Land

3 flights, all delayed, and a missed connection put me in Tel Aviv 25+ hours after leaving Houston and the Lone Star State. It was one of the longer and more exhausting trips I’ve had overseas with a bumpy flight across the pond. I was originally supposed to fly Houston > Dallas > Newark > Tel Aviv but my plane out of Houston departed 2 hours late. Instead I flew Houston > Dallas > London > Tel Aviv. I arrived in Israel via EL AL airlines. It seemed appropriate to do so.

I always try and avoid late night arrivals in foreign countries but Tel Aviv proved to be a breeze. Immigration went surprisingly quick. It was getting on the EL AL flight in London through Israeli securtiy that took a long time. Luckily, my pack made it all the way and popped out of baggage claim fast.  I had a room booked at a hostel and no other choice but a taxi.  An honest taxi driver with a well regulated system insured I paid the fair fare. There’s a kiosk at the taxi stand that tells you how much to expect to pay.

I pre booked a cheap single room in a hostel at a great location just steps from the beach. Online reviews were very mixed. I wasn't too sure what I'd get. The room I originally shown to was very small with no windows and a strong moldy smell. The woman working late night check in was very nice and put me in a much better room at no extra charge when I asked if there were another option. In the morning the manager said I could stay in the room I was changed to for my three nights in Tel Aviv at no extra expense.

Needless to say I was wired and tired with an 8 hour time change as I settled in well past midnight. Sleep wasn’t very good but in the morning I started to take care of Jet Lag.  I began the day with a run along the Tel Aviv water front followed by a healthy lunch, swim in the sea, and a lounge on the beach. The army guys with interesting looking guns, that I passed during my run, and the occasional military aircraft flying overhead assured me all is well in Israel. I feel perfectly comfortable here. Problem? What problem? I get the impression that’s the spirit of hip and cosmopolitan Tel Aviv.

So, here I am on another journey. The blog has been sparse but now I feel like I’m picking up where I left off. It’s a feeling I get every time I return to traveling internationally. My life at home and at work is so completely different from when I’m out abroad.

Since the last post I’ve spent my time in a self-imposed exile of extreme busyness. I embraced an over focused mindset in full pursuit of the American dollar until I reached a point of burnout. Asking myself, “What have I done, what have I been doing, who what that is?” Kind of like an old Talking Heads Song.

The end result is that I was able to save quite a few Shekels, relatively speaking of course. I’ve accrued enough to allow me to follow my folly for awhile.

First stop Tel Aviv, Israel. The Holy Land.